This is what I did. I acted like I was supposed to do it, and the staff acted like I was supposed to do it.

Thanks for mention the weight. Hadn't checked that, and even though it's heavy, it's at least half the weight of a Abus Granit City Chain X-Plus or a Kryptonite New York 1410. :-)

On occasions when I leave my bike locked up at a train station or bus station, I use 3 u-locks to secure my bike.

Abus Granit-X Plus 54 Mini for the Rear Wheel to the frame
Abus Granit-X Plus 54 for the Front Wheel to the frame
Abus GRANIT Extreme 59 for Frame to secure object at train station or bus station(with my helmet also secured by this U-lock).

http://i1000.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5oajghq4.jpg

I like my HipLock Lite.

Leave your bike near the front of a store and be quick and hope no one gets it.no no i mean i use a masterlock cable chain with key that i store on the bottom of my frame.

Nice review article
 

Good thread.

Here is a link to a good survey article on bike locks

How to choose the best bike lock in 2017
How to choose the best bike lock in 2017 - The Best Bike Lock

Bottom line to the article is that cable locks aren't even a deterrent. I have one on my car bike carrier more as an additional way to keep the bike on the car than security. When I travel I take the bike off the carrier to fix it with a proper lock...though I usually find a way to get the bike(s) indoors.

As said above, a prepositioned hardened chain and lock is a great way to maximize security and minimize what you carry.

Based on the article I went with an Abus folding lock that was rated for High Security. The Abus Bordo Big 6000/120 has a 120 mm reach and has enough flexibility to work with many locking hard points (sign, parking meter, lamp post, etc.). The sucker is heavy but there is a frame mount (or I use a backpack).

With regard to your situation at the gym, one way to get better visibility is to get your bike riding fellow members to ask the gym to move the bike rack to a more high visibility/traffic area. I'm sure if enough of you get together the management will work something out

Ehh, I disagree with thebestbikelock.com in some of its 'facts' and conclusions. A have a 12mm chain that is completely impervious to any bolt cutter, when according to that site, it could be cut by any 'medium sized' bolt cutters. The Pewag chain I (along with many others) use is harder than the hardened jaws of a bolt cutter so the jaws will chip and crack before even scratching the chain. I've verified this personally with 49" Krenn bolt cutters.

http://shadowflareindustries.com/pho...360a252-me.jpg

5.4 lbs? Uhhhm ... Not so much?
 

^^^:foo::foo::foo:^^^


Just in the interest of accuracy AND as a long time user of the legendary Big 'K' New York F/U lock. I would like to clarify that the top of the line BICYCLE SECURITY 'Fahgettaboudit' U lock weighs approx 1.99 Kgs OR just under **4.5 Lbs** (confirmed with a digital scale).
It is truly a Beast, for a "mini" u-lock.:eek:

My bikes 'live' in my apartment and are ** Never ** locked outside after dark here in L. A. Downtown.

One of my neighbors uses a truly Massive Big 'K' New York M-18 (2.76 Kgs / 6.11 Lbs):eek::twitchy: long shackle U lock paired with an Abus 12 mm cobra loop cable to secure his several year old Swissbike x70 full size folding mtb to the bike rack in the back patio / garden, where it 'lives'. This bike is also locked on the street after dark for hrs,:twitchy: several times a month, although to my knowledge never overnight on the streets.



/

The OP was talking about the Hiplock Gold, which is the one that weighs 5.4 lbs per their website. The kryptonite new york #1410 is the CHAIN which weighs 10.80 lbs per their website.

AAARRRRRRGGGGGH ... Crap!
 

linberl,
My apologies, and thanks for the heads-up!
Somehow, I was under the impression the response was to noglider's comment about his Krypto NYFU. The quoted weight numbers being a simple transposition typo. My bad.



/

Visibly is key above almost anything else.
I commute. I keep a heavy U-lock and chain on the rack at work. I have 2 different style of folding locks that are lighter. My seat is secured with a drive chain wrapped in an inner tube. This is my day to day hybrid for commuting. The frame and rear wheel are locked to a secure object. The front wheel is locked to the frame, and to a solid object if possible. I prefer 2 types of locks so a thief would have to cope with both to ride away with it. Lights and bags are removed and taken with me.

have 1 of these https://mobilesecurity.abus.com/eng/...plus-6500-bike
1580gm.

new 2nd 3'6"version reaches 10" further around, 2 can extend the range further locking one to the other.





....

Just remember the simple fact that no chain cable or lock can stand up to a battery powered cut off tool for more than about two minutes or less. Keep your bike in sight or take it inside if at all possible.

Nebraska state capitol a hot bed of organized thieves, out side of the government, of course..

I think that might more accurately express the case.

3 isn't nearly enough.

http://thebestbikelock.com/wp-conten...ike-locks2.jpg

But, only one connects to the rack.

Look at that, with all that weight, it has flattened the tire :(

If you lock up at the same place every day you can leave a heavy chain and lock on the bike rack so you don't have to carry it. Also, you should check out PitStopper allen bolt plugs to help ensure your seat and handlebars are still there at the end of the day.
Ultimately there is no way to stop a thief with an angle grinder but you can make it difficult.

I've had a few bikes stolen over the years, and have gotten smarter about it since, so here are my recommendations:

- Use a Kryptonite Mini 7 or better U-lock. U-locks are easier to defeat the larger they are (with a car Jack or similar), so get a small one if you can, and leave as little space between the frame and the bike stand as possible. Get one that takes at least a diamond blade cutter to defeat it, and you should be fine. Do not get a cable lock or cheap U-lock, they can be cut with bolt cutters. Get an expensive, heavy one.

https://www.kryptonitelock.com/en/pr...ey/002079.html

- Lock up your frame, not ONLY your wheels, or you will find your wheels are still there but you're frame is gone.
- ALWAYS lock to a fixed object such as a utility pole, bike rack, etc.
- If your wheels have quick release, always lock up the front wheel as well with an extra cable, such as comes with the mini 7.
- If you have an expensive saddle, lock it up as well. If not, should be okay.
- Do not leave the bike in high bike theft areas such as near public transit stations, near college campuses, etc. if you can help it.
- Leave in a well lit area, if possible with other bikes around.

If you practice those common sense rules, your bike should be fine.

And last but not least:
- If the bike is so valuable that you really can't afford to have it stolen, just DO NOT leave it unattended. Any bike lock can eventually be defeated, so that is just a fact. I NEVER leave my nice road bike unattended, for ANY reason.

If they let you take it into the locker room, and you can lock it to a fixed object in the locker room without bothering anyone, I would opt for that.

Lifes too short to ride a Huffy.