Shimano M525 pedal cleats?
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Shimano M525 pedal cleats?
Up until now I have been a platform pedal rider, and I am generally quite happy with that. I bought a used bike yesterday that came with a set of M525 clipless MTB pedals, though, and I also have SPD-compatible shoes for their stiff foresole. I figured if I could just buy cleats and put them on the shoes, it would be a cheap (<$10) way to try it out and see if I was interested.
It seems these particular pedals were discontinued a while back, though, and neither the 51 or 56 cleats list compatibility with these pedals. Is anyone still using them, that can comment on cleats that work?
It seems these particular pedals were discontinued a while back, though, and neither the 51 or 56 cleats list compatibility with these pedals. Is anyone still using them, that can comment on cleats that work?
#3
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US$12; not sure if cleats are included. At that price; I'd go with new:
https://detroit.craigslist.org/mcb/b...226670014.html
https://detroit.craigslist.org/mcb/b...226670014.html
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If I'm buying a new set of pedals, I'm just buying another set of platforms I know I like and being done with it. Just was curious to try these pedals if modern cleats will work with them, since the only good they'll do me otherwise is throwing practice into the junk, and I'd hate to junk them since they appear to be in decent shape. Performance has their compatible version of the 51 cleats for right around $10, and they seemingly always have other cleats sitting in the bargain bin cheap.
In any case, found an old chart on the Sheldon Brown site that seems to indicate the 51s should work, I'll probably give them a shot.
In any case, found an old chart on the Sheldon Brown site that seems to indicate the 51s should work, I'll probably give them a shot.
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M525 pedals came with an SH50 cleat. This was a zero degree float cleat and recommended for the M525. I doubt you will even find this cleat used on ebay.
SH51 cleats are 4 degree float single release. IIRC these will work with the M525 and Performance bike lists them as compatible.All current Shimano SPD pedals work with both SH51 and SH56 cleats and I don't know why an M525 pedal would be any different - if it works with the SH51 cleat then it should work with the SH56 six degree multi release "deathtrap" cleat as well.
I have to agree with the others however. M520 pedals with SH51 cleats are $23.99 at Nashbar right now.I understand not wanting to spend the money as well. $15 doesn't grow on trees.
Keep in mind that the M525 are older technology and have to be engaged toe first instead of just pressing down like like current Shimano SPD pedals. Your experience will not be exactly the same.
Also keep in mind the cleat you are using. Many recreational riders and tourers prefer the SH56 multi release cleat for ease of use. Aggressive riders and racers, especially those on the velodrome can pull out (hence the deathtrap moniker) of the SH56 cleats and should really be using the more secure SH51 cleats. SH51 are a little more difficult to unclip from however. One guy here goes to the bar a lot and switched to the 56 cleats, said his weekends were much more enjoyable.
-Tim-
SH51 cleats are 4 degree float single release. IIRC these will work with the M525 and Performance bike lists them as compatible.All current Shimano SPD pedals work with both SH51 and SH56 cleats and I don't know why an M525 pedal would be any different - if it works with the SH51 cleat then it should work with the SH56 six degree multi release "deathtrap" cleat as well.
I have to agree with the others however. M520 pedals with SH51 cleats are $23.99 at Nashbar right now.I understand not wanting to spend the money as well. $15 doesn't grow on trees.
Keep in mind that the M525 are older technology and have to be engaged toe first instead of just pressing down like like current Shimano SPD pedals. Your experience will not be exactly the same.
Also keep in mind the cleat you are using. Many recreational riders and tourers prefer the SH56 multi release cleat for ease of use. Aggressive riders and racers, especially those on the velodrome can pull out (hence the deathtrap moniker) of the SH56 cleats and should really be using the more secure SH51 cleats. SH51 are a little more difficult to unclip from however. One guy here goes to the bar a lot and switched to the 56 cleats, said his weekends were much more enjoyable.

-Tim-
Last edited by TimothyH; 07-21-17 at 04:42 PM.
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I understand not wanting to spend the money as well. $15 doesn't grow on trees.
Keep in mind that the M525 are older technology and have to be engaged toe first instead of just pressing down like like current Shimano SPD pedals. Your experience will not be exactly the same.
Keep in mind that the M525 are older technology and have to be engaged toe first instead of just pressing down like like current Shimano SPD pedals. Your experience will not be exactly the same.

Glad to see PB backing up Sheldon Brown, though. Oddly enough the packaging I was looking at was in-store at PB earlier.
Not too concerned with the experience being exactly the same. Fear of falling over was never a concern about the clipless, more looking to experience the supposed efficiency gain for myself to determine whether they are worth it.
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Thanks all! Just grabbed a set of 51 cleats out of PBs open box bin for $7, we shall see how I do tomorrow!
I figured there'd be a set in there, it pays to know your local shops
I figured there'd be a set in there, it pays to know your local shops

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Gave away an Ultegra 9 speed GS derailleur the other day. Told the guy all he had to do was make a donation to a charity of my choice for whatever he thought was right. He gave $25 to the Franciscans via paypal. Have done a bunch of that lately and feel good that parts are going to good homes and not in the trash or sitting in the closet.
Glad to hear about the cleats. Let us know how it works out.
-Tim-
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Of course its just easier to go buy new, and I can easily afford way more bike than I ride, but half my fun in all hobbies is seeing what I can do without resorting to the pocketbook. The true masters of any craft are rarely the ones that had any resources they needed at the snap of a finger, it is the ones who learned to make do with what they have. I strive to emulate that!
Heck, I'm mad the bike these came on is dangerously close to the 20# mark, when three of my four others are at or best 30#

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For history's sake, because I absolutely hate when I come across relevant historical threads with no resolution 
Did a full write up here: https://www.bikeforums.net/general-cy...l#post19738171, but the short of it is really no problems clipping in, even with the old style insertion. Don't always hit it perfect on the first go, but from what I've seen of other riders, they don't either. Not sure how tension is normally discussed, but I backed it all the way out, then set all of them to four detents/clicks/"whatever the indicator is called" in, never had an issue getting out, nor did I ever accidentally unclip. NO funny falling over stories, either, the process was completely natural after about the first three tries.

Did a full write up here: https://www.bikeforums.net/general-cy...l#post19738171, but the short of it is really no problems clipping in, even with the old style insertion. Don't always hit it perfect on the first go, but from what I've seen of other riders, they don't either. Not sure how tension is normally discussed, but I backed it all the way out, then set all of them to four detents/clicks/"whatever the indicator is called" in, never had an issue getting out, nor did I ever accidentally unclip. NO funny falling over stories, either, the process was completely natural after about the first three tries.
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For history's sake, because I absolutely hate when I come across relevant historical threads with no resolution 
Did a full write up here: https://www.bikeforums.net/general-cy...l#post19738171, but the short of it is really no problems clipping in, even with the old style insertion. Don't always hit it perfect on the first go, but from what I've seen of other riders, they don't either. Not sure how tension is normally discussed, but I backed it all the way out, then set all of them to four detents/clicks/"whatever the indicator is called" in, never had an issue getting out, nor did I ever accidentally unclip. NO funny falling over stories, either, the process was completely natural after about the first three tries.

Did a full write up here: https://www.bikeforums.net/general-cy...l#post19738171, but the short of it is really no problems clipping in, even with the old style insertion. Don't always hit it perfect on the first go, but from what I've seen of other riders, they don't either. Not sure how tension is normally discussed, but I backed it all the way out, then set all of them to four detents/clicks/"whatever the indicator is called" in, never had an issue getting out, nor did I ever accidentally unclip. NO funny falling over stories, either, the process was completely natural after about the first three tries.
Tension is a safety issue for me. I don't care to be dragged along the road with my bike wedged under a car and my feet attached to the bike. Similar to ski boots, they should unclip in an accident. Just enough tension so that I don't pull out when riding aggressively is my thought. Any more is unsafe. Gravel and MTB might require more tension.
Glad to hear that you did OK and I totally respect and admire those who, after reading and researching, actually try things for themselves. I never regret trying things but often regret not trying.
-Tim-
Last edited by TimothyH; 07-22-17 at 05:57 PM.
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