Another clicking crankset thread...
 

hello, so here I ago, my recently purchased off CL Giant Butte started producing these annoying clicks on each pedaling move
it has biopace crankset so initially my thought was that the chain touches FD as the crankset isn't round, but no, I reattached everything, tuned it fresh and clicking still persists. I would say there are even two clicks each pedaling cycle, one louder, one not that much. I checked chainwheel bolts - all are tight and secure. Checked pedals - both spin smoothly and don't click. I also checked the seatpost and greased it, no clicking coming from it. Checked for cracks - no visible cracks so far.
So that clicking happens only when I SIT on a saddle. And it clearly comes from crankset area, I even feel it through pedals. If I stand on pedals and ride like that - no clicking is happening. If I just spin pedals while off the bike - no clicking either. When I go uphill clicking becomes much louder and distinct. When I cycle slooowly, clicking almost goes away.

Any suggestions? Should I take it straight to bottom bracket and replace it? Or it still can be something else?

Try swapping saddles if you happen to have a spare one just to be sure that's not it. I had a similar problem about a week ago and I could have sworn it was the crankset or bottom bracket...but nah, it really was the saddle. The bit where it only happens when you're sitting makes it seem even more likely.

I did that. I swapped default one to a new Fizik. Clicking remains

Wouldn't hurt to add a little oil to your quick-releases and make sure they're properly tight. Sometimes they'll click in time with your movements.

Yep wheels and quick releases are all greased up and tuned with new tubes and tires. I took care of that. And clicking is still present, never went away. It clearly comes somewhere from chainwheel area as I physically feel click with my feet on pedals. Can't trace where exactly they come from as when I dismount and spin pedals - everything is normal and no clicks are heard.

Did you pull the seatpost & check for moisture? You've pretty much ruled out that it is not likely the crankset. If the seatpost is devoid of grease, or has corrosion or even thinned oil or grease, wipe it off completely then alt a generous layer of grease (or carbon paste if a carbon post) on it. Be sure to also clean the inside of the seat tube as well, then grease down as far as you can reach with your gloved finger, then reassemble.
Also, did you check your pedals?

You don't need to grease the skewers but make sure they're cranked down tight. Some you have to get super tight. Could be a loose spoke or it could be your bottom bracket bearings. The BB could be loose. Lots of ticks that sound like they're coming from the saddle or cranks end up being something else.

Right. On carbon bikes, the sound is seldom where you think it is. Don't rule anything out.

Wife had a clicking problem. Turned out to be the end of her shoelace hitting the crank.....

Might also be a spoke. Or perhaps even your cleat.

if it's from ur saddle then it could be a loose seat clamp. if you have a kickstand then it might be loose and hitting your cranks . . .

It's not a saddle or a seatpost. I readjusted them many times, greased seatpost and changed saddles. It has nothing to do with it. I feel like I need to buy all necessary tools and get into crankset insides, probably something is off inside.

Which of the 20 different bottom bracket interfaces does your frame have?

I have a recurring problem on my Giant Defy where the direct mount front derailleur slides down and the chainring teeth make intermittent contact with it causing a repetitive clicking noise. But only under load so it doesn't occur when its in a stand, took a long time to diagnose. Happened again today so I need to see what is going on with it, might just need some thread locker.

Hm sounds very very much like my case. Giant as well. I just located the exact moment when it's happening. It's on the left side, when I start rotating the left pedal. But only when I push it down with some force. If I just spin it freely - no clicking occurs. It's on and off, on and off, I don't really get it, but yeah sounds pretty much like what you mentioned, maybe that's something similar? I have biopace oval chainring, could it contribute to that issue? And what is the way to deal with it?

I will have to figure it out once a 15mm wrench is delivered. I have 3 piece crankset for sure, bolts on both sides.

Let go of the handlebars and see if it still clicks. My clicking cranks have always been handlebars or saddle. It wouldn't hurt to lube your seatpost clamp. Both where it grips the saddle rail and at the tilt adjustment.

It could be if the front derailleur height was adjusted based on its position relative to a part of the chainring that wasn't its tallest section. The chainring on my bike isn't oval, but its not perfectly round either. When on the lower ring, it is the big ring that strikes the derailleur cage.

If that is the problem raising a derailleur a few millimeters should fix it. How you accomplish that would vary depending on whether your derailleur is a direct mount or band-on type.

In that case that would happen any time you spin pedals, right? But it happens only when there is load. I don't think that steel a bike actually bends down that much to FD starts touching the chain. That should be a good 5 mm bend there. Also, I actually did raise FD a bit in attempts to fix clicking and it didn't do anything.

check/remove the plastic reflectors on the wheels, lubricate where the spokes touch each other and at the nipple, lube the seat post, check for the chain hitting the front derailer, and check for loose spokes

set the bike against a wall and get on it. see if you can replicate the click without moving

then it might be your bottom bracket, replace it

Can you post a pic of the crank/bottom bracket.

This is an outside possibility, but did you assemble your chain using a chain tool to push the rivet back in? The forces applied might have squeezed the chain's plates together at that link so close that they bind as they go around the chainrings/RD guide pulley's. Best indicator of this is if the chain 'jumps' a little bit every once in a while.

Also, if a square taper BB, check and make sure the pedal arms a properly seated on the square parts of the axle. If they are loose they will slip a little and make a repetitive clicking sound, and eventually come loose - reseat in arms, tap them on lightly with a mallet to make sure they are seated snugly, them screw in the lock bolt and torque it up to properly seat them.

Absolutely

And few more

Okay.....you'll need a handful of tools for this one; Remove the crank bolts with a 15mm socket, then remove the crank arms with a crank puller. Remove the BB lockring from the non-drive side of the BB with a BB spanner, then remove the BB through the drive side of the BB shell. Clean all of the threads in the shell very well as well as the BB itself. Grease the threads in the BB shell and reassemble.
My experience is when the interface between the BB shell and BB gets dry, a creak develops. Now, all of these tools will cost you more than taking your bike to a shop, but I'm a believer in learning to maintain one's own bike. Good luck.

Currently waiting for 15mm wrench. Once I get it I will remove bolts to find out BB type and will go from there. I could imagine BB going dry, a bike was really poorly maintained when I got it, lots of rust, I cleaned/greased and replaced quite a few parts.