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Originally Posted by canklecat
(Post 19884116)
I fish the chain out of the melted wax and hook it hanging over the crock pot to drip the excess back into the pot.and chain rings.
My comment about letting the wax cool just a bit, was not so that you avoid losing wax to wastage, but rather so that enough wax would stay within the bearings or rollers of the chain to provide the lubrication you need. After I have a wax setup(which may or may not be just Squirt), I'm thinking of cleaning the chain every so often by running it through a Park Tools Chain Cleaner, where it has been filled to the appropriate level with denatured alcohol. Your thoughts on that? |
Originally Posted by canklecat
(Post 19884122)
Tallow has traditionally been used as a lubricant on heavy machinery, including locomotives. No reason why it couldn't be used on bicycle chains.
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Originally Posted by ColonelSanders
(Post 19884185)
After I have a wax setup(which may or may not be just Squirt) |
Originally Posted by Pendergast
(Post 19884259)
Smoove is another drip-on wax you might want to check out. It's supposedly longer lasting than Squirt. I'll probably give it a try when I run out of my current supply of Squirt. I'm pretty happy with Squirt though.
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Originally Posted by ColonelSanders
(Post 19883932)
Shouldn't you wait till the wax has cooled a little bit, before taking the chain out, otherwise too much of the wax will run out of the rollers? :twitchy:
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Originally Posted by mihlbach
(Post 19884294)
To retain the most wax in the chain, let the wax completely cool, then meticulously excavate the chain from the wax using very fine tools.
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Originally Posted by canklecat
(Post 19884099)
And I have a theory that leaving it in the melted wax longer ensures the stuff will wick into the bearing surfaces. Even melted paraffin is pretty heavy, thick stuff so it may take longer to seep into those areas.
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Originally Posted by ColonelSanders
(Post 19883932)
Shouldn't you wait till the wax has cooled a little bit, before taking the chain out, otherwise too much of the wax will run out of the rollers? :twitchy:
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How to easily clean/wax your wheels in 1 step. Easily removing any chain lube. When did you last lube your chain? A properly lubricated chain is one of the best maintenance tasks for your bike.
Listen, if you're going to ride six inches from my back wheel for two plus miles at least have the courtesy to lube your damn chain. Check out this cool blogpost about the Bikewash, which Squirt Chain Lube ran at Battle On The Beach XC MTB Event... Do you think that the Chain Lube ACLSC can be used to lube the tracks of household garage door tracks? |
Originally Posted by gregf83
(Post 19883576)
I'm curious why you leave the chain in the wax for more than a minute or two? When I heat up the wax I usually wax 3 or 4 chains, one at a time, but just dip them in the wax until they heat up and then remove and wipe with a paper towel.
The Little Dipper crockpot holds at exactly 265º, which is a decent amount above the "optimal" temperature for paraffin (195º) but good enough for me. Dropping a room-temperature chain in the wax will drop the temperature about 30 degrees. So while 195º is the optimum according to MSW, I think getting the entire chain above 212º ensures that there's no incidental moisture inside the chain or the crock pot. |
Originally Posted by DrIsotope
(Post 19884614)
When I read the method from the Molten Speed Wax guy, they specifically said to leave the chain in long enough for the temperature of the chain to rise to the temperature of the wax to ensure that the wax gets all the way into the rollers. Seems to work, as I get excellent mileage out of each dip-- and have no measurable wear on an 11-speed chain with nearly 2,000 miles on it.
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Originally Posted by ColonelSanders
(Post 19884679)
Besides using the Molten Speed Wax method, are you also using Molten Speed Wax itself or a paraffin mix with added ingredients or just straight paraffin?
I weigh out my PTFE powder, but the amount doesn't seem to be as crazy as what MSW ships on their chains-- I saw a race-wax chain on Gaimon's bike in one of his Worst Retirement Ever videos, and the drivetrain appeared to be absolutely caked in teflon. But I'm not super interested in the racer aspect-- I just like a clean and quiet drivetrain. |
I always run my chains dry. Whether it was road bikes or pedicabs the chain was always dry. I worked briefly in karting where the chain was always lubed. But I have a problem with this:
on my motorbike, lubing a dirty chain always leads to it elongating rapidly and eventually breaking. If I want to clean a chain, I soak it in gasoline and clean with a rag, then repeat, then dry it off and soak in chain lube... then wipe it off. But I stopped doing that after a while. I think it has to do with Jobst Brandt's theory: lubing a dirty chain causes the dirt on the outside to make its way inside the rollers, causing rapid wear. |
Originally Posted by gregf83
(Post 19884326)
My crockpot must be hotter than yours.
:D |
Originally Posted by Maelochs
(Post 19885122)
Oh, please. Have we really fallen to this level?
:D |
Are hotter crock pots The Future of Road Cycling ™?
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Any interesting podcast with the friction facts/ceramicspeed founder, especially in regards to wax and rain. https://cyclingtips.com/2017/01/cycl...nd-chain-lube/
Interesting people's experience with its use in rain, and their suggestion to coat the outside of the chain in grease and teflon powder. Seems like wax and water don't do so well together after all |
Anyone like this stuff? Seems not to collect so much grime. Finish Line Ceramic Wet Chain Lube
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Originally Posted by Maelochs
(Post 19885122)
Oh, please. Have we really fallen to this level?
:D |
Originally Posted by Troul
(Post 19883752)
Has tallow been used as a chain lube?
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Originally Posted by Lakerat
(Post 19888658)
Beef fat as lubricant? Tallow'd be thy name.
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Originally Posted by Maelochs
(Post 19888846)
Dogs already chase me. More help I don't need.
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Originally Posted by SHBR
(Post 19883242)
Curious to know what the waxers are getting for chain life.
I've got a (8 speed kmc x series) chain that has over 10,000 KM that has not yet reached 0.75% wear. Steve |
Originally Posted by sweeks
(Post 19889520)
8-speed chains are wider than 9-speed chains, which are in turn wider than 10-speed chains. I couldn't find any information about 11-speed chains. But I wonder if there is any evidence that the narrower a chain gets, the faster it wears, all other factors being equal. There will be less surface (load-bearing) area as the chain gets narrower, I would think. With higher loading, I would expect wear to occur at a greater rate. Is this reasonable?
Steve That said, the tolerances for the chain to do it's job of moving back and forth between gears is tighter and any wear would be more detrimental. The slightly reduced wear of the pins may not be enough to overcome the requirement of tighter tolerances. On the other hand, I suspect that you'll get just about the same mileage out of an 8 speed chain as you will out of an 11 speed chain. |
Originally Posted by sweeks
(Post 19889520)
There will be less surface (load-bearing) area as the chain gets narrower, I would think. With higher loading, I would expect wear to occur at a greater rate. Is this reasonable?
Chain width ≠ outside width dimension |
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