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How would you buy a bike ???

Old 10-24-17, 06:40 PM
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How would you buy a bike ???

this question is for serious riders that know what they need to get to the level they are or want to be at , so how would you buy a training bike , and how much of a difference is there between your training bike and your race day bike , do you prefer an older model off Craigslist or to buy new from a dealer

, im trying to find my next level bike under 1500, i dont have the bike lifestyle to spend over 1500 on one bike , im going to upgrade no matter what most likely wheels and im having trouble finding that right ride , i know i like a 56 or 58 height with a 56 reach , i was looking at a trek domane alr 3 mostly on sale bikes , its really hard , i technically could choose a Craigslist bike , i see a few trek madones one carbon one alum for under 900 , i see a tarmac in a 54 cm for like 550 , there are some cannondale synapse , its really hard to choose a bike to get to the nest step in training ,

right now i have an older trek 1.2 but its too small i can ride it but its not comfy even though its faster in theory than my felt z100 the felt is more comfortable and i get the same work out from both , id like to step it up a bit and get moving faster i have small goals , im trying too improve my speed and sustain my speed longer and i feel good on the bikes i just need to know should i just upgrade my z100 it was only 300 bucks i haven't even done anything to it i bought one conti gp4000 for it when the rear tire shredded one day thats about it , should i save up for a better bike , what do the serious riders like to ride in a reasonable price ranger of 1500 , its a tough question to answer ...
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Old 10-24-17, 09:20 PM
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First off, what do you plan to do with the bike? What do you expect it to do for you? Bikes are tools. You choose the tool for the job.

What, to you, is a "training bike"? What are you training for? Randonees or crits? gravel races or road races? And why should a "training bike" be different than a "race bike"?

I assume you would want your "race bike" to have the lightest reliable components you could afford. I assume that you wouldn't want to spend that kind of money on a "training bike." I also assume you would want similar controls, so any instincts you developed while training would apply while racing.

I assume you have a "race bike," but you don't say what it is.

You did hit on one important fact---"theory" is BS if your theory doesn't include a bike that fits.

Why do you want to replace the Felt? or is it the Trek you want to replace while you race the Felt? Are you really racing often enough and at a high enough level that you "need" a "race bike"?

I would assume a racer would have a special "race bike" which s/he wanted to preserve (Dura-Ace clusters for instance wear quickly I hear,) and also so if there was a trianing accident the rider could still race the next event.

Are you racing at a high enough level where missing an event, or riding a sub-optimal bike, would really matter to more than just your pride? I doubt it ... because if so, you would be riding a bike provided by your sponsor.

Therefore I have to assume that you just Want a second bike, a little more economical than your current best bike, which you cane ride everywhere except at races. Is that the case?

In that case, my first question would be, what is your current "race bike" and might it be better to replace that and use it as a training bike. Or .. might it be better to get a bare frame, and swap the parts? You already say you want to get new wheels---if you spend $500-$700 on a Chinese CF frame, you could put a lot more into wheels for your race bike, buy a 105 group for your current "race bike" which would become your "training bike," and come out way ahead in terms of quality.

I don't know how you think. I would think you would put All your money into your "race bike," and train on anything that fit, so long as it had the same manufacturer's drive train (same shifting/braking mechanics.) Your race bike could be as smooth and fast and light as your wallet and the rules allowed, and your training bike ... who cares if it is a steel-framed bike from BikesDirect. As long as it has the same brake/shifter brand as your race bike ... in fact, the heavier the better, because you will get more work out of every mile, and when you swap the 25-lb 'training bike" for the 15-lb "raced bike" everything will seem easy.
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Old 10-24-17, 09:52 PM
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I would probably figure out what it would take to use the "race bike" as an "all purpose bike".

For example picking out parts that could wear or get damaged and substituting cheaper versions (wheels, tires, chains, cassettes, brake pads & holders, etc), then move your training parts to your one bike.

I suppose an advantage of having two bikes is that you would have a spare ready to go if either is damaged or inoperable for some reason.

If you choose two bikes, then try to get as close of a match as will fit your budget. So, perhaps a lesser model of the same brand of shifters. Although, even that might be problematic. For example, I think Campagnolo Athena has single click shifting, and Record/Super Record have multi-click shifting.

I am a fan of used bikes, used frames, and build-your-own bikes with a mix of new & used parts.

Primarily, you'll want to be comfortable swapping between the two bikes. And, the more parts in common, you'll also be able to swap parts in a pinch.

Of course, another option is to get something very different such as a TT bike, or a bike to use as a commuter/towing trailers/Beater/etc. Still, keep in mind a common interface is nice.
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Old 10-25-17, 01:37 AM
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This is how I did it for my last few bicycles ...

I determined need (or probably more accurately, want). In other words, I wanted a bicycle to ride my long distance events. I wanted a bicycle to tour with. I wanted a folding bicycle to tour with. Etc.

I make a list of more specific things I want, like for example, eyelets so I can mount a rack, a particular material, the ability to accommodate certain gearing, whether or not the frame comes in my size ...

Then I look around at what the options are in the appropriate category.
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Old 10-25-17, 06:50 AM
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I start by making a mental list of what I'm looking for - characteristics of the bike, price range, and other factors. Other factors, if you are honest with yourself, are probably bigger decision determiners than most people like to admit. I've been fooling around with bikes for a long time so my list can get pretty exact.

The more precise your list, the more likely you'll be happy with the purchase but the harder it can be to source a vendor. I've got other bikes that I can ride so I feel like I can hold out for exactly what I want.

The last new bike that I bought was actually a trike. The key characteristics I was looking for were 165 mm crank arms and had to fit inside of my Honda Element along with my wife's trike. The local bike shop guys were quite helpful in figuring out the bike loading process once they knew that was the non-negotiable deal breaker.
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Old 10-25-17, 06:58 AM
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Take your felt and slap some new $250-450 wheels on it. Get 11sp ready and use a spacer to run your current setup. That alone will cut 7-22oz off the bike's weight, depending on what new wheelset you buy and itll be felt on when you accelerate.
If you like it- then toss some 5800 shifters, derailleurs, and crankset on there. That will drop another 12oz or so off the bike's weight.

This is all assuming what you have is stock from how the bike came a handful of years ago(triple crank, Mshift STI, Sora derailleurs, generic wheelset).

You will spend $500-700 and have a lighter better performing bike that you like and fits you.

Or yeah- get something off CL and either ride it or swap stuff onto the Felt.
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Old 10-26-17, 02:52 PM
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FWIW, back when I raced, I did so on my cheaper bike. Logic being that in the much higher likelihood I crashed it, my heart, or my wallet wouldn't break. My race bike was a Wilier Alpe D'Huez and my do everything else bike was a Colnago.
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Old 10-26-17, 03:08 PM
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Your biggest bang for the buck is to optimize the fit on the bike you have now and then to upgrade the wheels. Most racers I know have multiple bikes but they primarily train for racing on their race bikes. Their other bikes are for other purposes (like TT, CX, mtb, track, utility/commuting), and these can all be pressed into service as a backup/rain bike, but I don't know anyone who has a separate training bike.
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Old 10-26-17, 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by providencebikes View Post
this question is for serious riders that know what they need to get to the level they are or want to be at , so how would you buy a training bike , and how much of a difference is there between your training bike and your race day bike , do you prefer an older model off Craigslist or to buy new from a dealer

, im trying to find my next level bike under 1500, i dont have the bike lifestyle to spend over 1500 on one bike , im going to upgrade no matter what most likely wheels and im having trouble finding that right ride , i know i like a 56 or 58 height with a 56 reach , i was looking at a trek domane alr 3 mostly on sale bikes , its really hard , i technically could choose a Craigslist bike , i see a few trek madones one carbon one alum for under 900 , i see a tarmac in a 54 cm for like 550 , there are some cannondale synapse , its really hard to choose a bike to get to the nest step in training ,

right now i have an older trek 1.2 but its too small i can ride it but its not comfy even though its faster in theory than my felt z100 the felt is more comfortable and i get the same work out from both , id like to step it up a bit and get moving faster i have small goals , im trying too improve my speed and sustain my speed longer and i feel good on the bikes i just need to know should i just upgrade my z100 it was only 300 bucks i haven't even done anything to it i bought one conti gp4000 for it when the rear tire shredded one day thats about it , should i save up for a better bike , what do the serious riders like to ride in a reasonable price ranger of 1500 , its a tough question to answer ...
I have a Tarmac and think it's a great all-around race bike. But I would be really dubious of a $550 Tarmac. That sounds like it's a) old; b) trashed; c) stolen; d) any combination of the above.
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Old 10-26-17, 05:41 PM
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so i like to train twice a week , im sure it will go down during the winter , right now is a good time to look for bikes to buy , i feel i need a dedicated training bike for road / pavement , i know there are so many bikes that are being made for gravel cobble its gets really confusing , i dont need anything for crazy hill climbs, i have sora groups ,

for now i usually do flats , im looking for a dedicated road bike , as i have utility bikes and hybrid road bikes i ride around the city , i ride every day , i have no interest in cars anymore , so i have 5 bikes , in my opinion i feel i should have a dedicated training bike that is leaning towards race bike but is still good for city and commutes as i always ride to the bike path and back through the city i live in , and i train on city roads sometimes , so the training bike is race style but going to get gp4000s tires or something racey but durable , and the race bike will be the big investment i would only use on race day it would sit on the wall and be scrubbed and lubed for race days only once i get to the level , but i feel i dont have a lifestyle that could justify 5000$ bikes so im looking at a race bike around 2500 , and a training bike under 1500$



so what im looking for is a step up , i have two trek 1.2s one is a 2016 , its really nice but im trying to sell it , and i bought an older 1.2 for 200 bucks , but its just a bit two small for me but i still train on it some time , i usually switch between the older 1.2 and the felt z100 , but the felt is really heavy , it fits me better i have zero pain on it most rides , the reach is good and the height is good for me , but its just take more effort , and im not sure thats a bad thing ,

what im looking for is a clear step up , i know there are many factors , i dont have the years of bike racing like some people , i have only about 2 years , i mostly train , and train and train , an when i feel im ready i will race more , but i dont have a a clear race plan , i just hope to get into it when i feel ready , i think i need more time and hours on bike , plus i know i will get destroyed on hill climbs , im getting really good on flats and sprinting so i needs some help from real riders that know what they need to get the job done ....
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Old 10-27-17, 09:46 AM
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I think more than a 'training bike' you need a training plan. To get a training plan, you need a goal.
Do you race now? Did you race before? What kind of racing are you trying to get in to?
Pick an event, so you've got a date to work to.

Right now, you are hung up on 'the gear will make me faster' and are 'throwing bikes at the wall to see what sticks'
There's no magic bullet. Pick a bike, get a plan, and do the work.

If you don't have a plan, you're just 'riding around the city' A training plan will involve rides with different focuses; Intervals for speed/sprints, tempo rides for endurance, and so on. Since you're a flatlander, you'll be on a trainer or a spin bike to simulate the sustained high-efforts needed for hill climbing. It also doesn't hurt to hit the weight room to work on overall strength and conditioning.

At this stage, the bike is a minor issue.
You've got 3 relatively sporty road bikes. Pick the one that fits you correctly, and train on it. Use Strava or the like to track your rides so you can actually track your progress, rather than just 'I feel faster'.
To be honest, at 'club level' a $2000 bike will be fast enough for race day, and also be durable enough to handle the day-in day out. Save your $200 bike for the bad weather beater.

Ideally, your 'training' bike should be set up pretty much like your race bike, WRT seat height, reach, and bar width. The trainer can be a little more relaxed, though, since you'll be spending a lot of time under real-world 'not race' conditions. The gruppos don't have to be the same, but try to get your gearing as close as possible between the two bikes, so speed and cadence transfer back and forth. You do have a computer with a cadence sensor?
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Old 10-27-17, 10:32 AM
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Old 10-27-17, 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by providencebikes View Post
so i like to train twice a week , im sure it will go down during the winter , right now is a good time to look for bikes to buy , i feel i need a dedicated training bike for road / pavement , i know there are so many bikes that are being made for gravel cobble its gets really confusing , i dont need anything for crazy hill climbs, i have sora groups ,

for now i usually do flats , im looking for a dedicated road bike , as i have utility bikes and hybrid road bikes i ride around the city , i ride every day , i have no interest in cars anymore , so i have 5 bikes , in my opinion i feel i should have a dedicated training bike that is leaning towards race bike but is still good for city and commutes as i always ride to the bike path and back through the city i live in , and i train on city roads sometimes , so the training bike is race style but going to get gp4000s tires or something racey but durable , and the race bike will be the big investment i would only use on race day it would sit on the wall and be scrubbed and lubed for race days only once i get to the level , but i feel i dont have a lifestyle that could justify 5000$ bikes so im looking at a race bike around 2500 , and a training bike under 1500$



so what im looking for is a step up , i have two trek 1.2s one is a 2016 , its really nice but im trying to sell it , and i bought an older 1.2 for 200 bucks , but its just a bit two small for me but i still train on it some time , i usually switch between the older 1.2 and the felt z100 , but the felt is really heavy , it fits me better i have zero pain on it most rides , the reach is good and the height is good for me , but its just take more effort , and im not sure thats a bad thing ,

what im looking for is a clear step up , i know there are many factors , i dont have the years of bike racing like some people , i have only about 2 years , i mostly train , and train and train , an when i feel im ready i will race more , but i dont have a a clear race plan , i just hope to get into it when i feel ready , i think i need more time and hours on bike , plus i know i will get destroyed on hill climbs , im getting really good on flats and sprinting so i needs some help from real riders that know what they need to get the job done ....
Based on this review Trek 1.2 review - BikeRadar USA it looks like your Trek 1.2 could be a very decent starter race bike with a few upgrades. Tires are an easy enough upgrade. Keep the crappy but tough Bontragers as a winter training tire, then get some nice supple race tires. I like Vittoria (these are really nice: https://www.competitivecyclist.com/v...rsa-evo-cx-iii) The difference will be huge.

Also the brakes are pretty dodgy according to Bike Radar, but you can find a set of 105 calipers online for cheap, and those work really well.

Other than that, your bike is fine. If you're not already, start going on the local race rides. If you don't know where/when these are, ask at the local bike shop that caters to road racers. Someone there will know. Also, ask if there's a local Early Bird Series. These are mentored races for new racers where they work on race skills. And I'd recommend looking at the local race schedule (they're all starting to come out now) and targeting a local Cat 5 crit. Put it on your calendar, turn up, and race it. Then you'll have a better idea if your fitness is sufficient, or you need better pack skills, or whatever.

But really, your bike is fine.
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Old 10-27-17, 07:20 PM
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i wieght train twice a week calisthenics 2 times a week 30 miles rides twice a week

i have a few bikes in mind my trek 1.2s are cool but they are a little small thats why im trying to step up to something better for me , i have looked at some

giant defy 5 ,
trek emonda and domane ,
caad8 , 10, and 12 ,
kestrel talon ,
there are some trek madones for around 700 my size ,
i could go with an allez but i just dont like the lines or look even if its a good bike
Cannondale Synapse Alloy Disc Bike

Colnago A1R 105 Aluminium Road Bike - 2017





its so hard to choose
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Old 10-27-17, 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by providencebikes View Post
i wieght train twice a week calisthenics 2 times a week 30 miles rides twice a week

i have a few bikes in mind my trek 1.2s are cool but they are a little small thats why im trying to step up to something better for me , i have looked at some

giant defy 5 ,
trek emonda and domane ,
caad8 , 10, and 12 ,
kestrel talon ,
there are some trek madones for around 700 my size ,
i could go with an allez but i just dont like the lines or look even if its a good bike
Cannondale Synapse Alloy Disc Bike

Colnago A1R 105 Aluminium Road Bike - 2017

2017 BMC TEAMMACHINE ALR01 105 ROAD BIKE




its so hard to choose
Those are all fine bikes. Whichever one you buy, you'll need to ride it more. I don't know of anyone racing on 60 miles a week. Maybe it can be done, but I don't know of anyone who has.
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Old 10-28-17, 02:24 AM
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Originally Posted by providencebikes View Post
...... the felt is really heavy , it fits me better i have zero pain on it most rides , the reach is good and the height is good for me , but its just take more effort , and im not sure thats a bad thing
The Felt is Really heavy? What 24 lbs? (Listed weight is 23 lbs, so that is Not a heavy bike.) If you have a bike which fits perfectly, upgrade the wheels. You might be able to lose some cheap weight with a lighter seat post.

I looked up the felt ... Al with a CF fork, Sora running gear ... this is the perfect training bike. The extra weight is only a benefit for training. If the wheels and tires are heavy, save some weight there.

Otherwise, you will ride faster and train harder on a bike which fits ... and you have one.

Originally Posted by Ironfish653 View Post
I think more than a 'training bike' you need a training plan.
Stop worrying about bike and upgrade the rider. racing isn’t about having a better bike .... it is about being able to outwork the other riders.

Strategy plays a big role, but you can only learn so much of that from books. Racecraft is perfected by racing. But to even be around to be able to guess if you should join an attack or not (“is this going to be the winning move or will it get run down later?”) you have to be as fit as the folks in that move.

Originally Posted by Ironfish653 View Post
If you don't have a plan, you're just 'riding around the city' A training plan will involve rides with different focuses; Intervals for speed/sprints, tempo rides for endurance, and so on. Since you're a flatlander, you'll be on a trainer or a spin bike to simulate the sustained high-efforts needed for hill climbing. It also doesn't hurt to hit the weight room to work on overall strength and conditioning.
Quoted for truth. The difference between a rider and a racer is how they each ride, not how far or how long.

Originally Posted by Ironfish653 View Post
At this stage, the bike is a minor issue.

You've got 3 relatively sporty road bikes. Pick the one that fits you correctly, and train on it. Use Strava or the like to track your rides so you can actually track your progress, rather than just 'I feel faster'.
Simple truths. You aren’t lacking in the bike department. Improve the training, save the cash for your “race” bike.

The Strava idea is also really important. If you want to train effectively you will need to be able to break down your ride into segments and measure performance (speed, time, heart rate, cadence) over each segment. and track your performance over time. You need to be riding intervals and if you have any hills, hill repeats, and you need to be able to measure with numbers (not just how you feel on a given day) how your performance changes.

Also .. I Strongly suggest looking for group rides. I had no idea how hard I could push myself until I was desperately clinging to the wheel of the last guy in the pack (save myself, of course) and in order to not get dropped, I surprised myself repeatedly at how much harder I could work when someone else paced me.

Most riders find that they cannot push themselves as hard or for as long riding solo as they can trying to keep up with quicker riders.

Nothing wrong with buying more bikes ... but to get the Right bike, you have to know exactly why you are buying it.

If you really Want a much lighter bike ... spend as little as possible. get a CF bike from Bikes Direct.

It won’t help you ride better, you really won’t be noticeably faster, and it won’t help your training ... but if you just want a new bike, admit it and shop wisely.

But ... if you really want to race, your best bet is to learn about racing, practice for racing, train for racing ..... keep your money in your pocket and start getting more out of every miles.
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Old 11-03-17, 04:40 PM
  #17  
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i ride every day when , train the bike path i go on is about 13 miles so going and coming, is about 26 plus im 2 or 3 miles from the start , i feel good on my felt , i feel faster but more uncomfortable on my trek i dont have any other options for bikes

i do have a another felt sr91 with flat bars and 32 mm gator skins thats what i have been riding around the city the last couple of months , 9im just looking for that right bike so i dont have to worry about loosing too much power and dragging i love my felt but its been almost two years and its time to step up to something better with 105 group and more tech , plus i dont cre about saving money i care about having a good machine to capture my efforts , thats all i think about i can push and push and get no where even get slower , i get passed by dude weaker than me on better bikes with all the nice tech , i have reach a point where im not going to get any faster im just going to damage my body and get slower , i just feel i need a better machine , i will just hope it finds me someday
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Old 11-03-17, 07:22 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by providencebikes View Post
i ride every day when , train the bike path i go on is about 13 miles so going and coming, is about 26 plus im 2 or 3 miles from the start , i feel good on my felt , i feel faster but more uncomfortable on my trek i dont have any other options for bikes
Have you adjusted your setup? Feeling uncomfortable in 26 miles would indicate to me that your setup isn't very good.
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Old 11-05-17, 12:19 PM
  #19  
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well on the 54 cm trek yes i need to change the stem and the saddle on my felt its a 58 i think or 56 i feel fine it just drags a little ...

i know they say this bike is really stiff and doesnt take bumps well but is it a decent buy specialized s works m4


https://www.ebay.com/itm/23226555429...torefresh=true
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Old 11-06-17, 07:02 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by providencebikes View Post
i get passed by dude weaker than me on better bikes with all the nice tech , i have reach a point where im not going to get any faster im just going to damage my body and get slower , i just feel i need a better machine , i will just hope it finds me someday
That seems unlikely. How do you know they are "weaker" than you? What does that even mean?

I went from a 37# Comfort Hybrid with 50mm tires to a 19# Endurance with 28mm tires. Did it make me faster? A little bit. Do I enjoy riding it more? Absolutely. But I improved much more by riding the hybrid than switching bikes.

"Don't buy upgrades, ride up grades" - Eddie Merckx
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Old 11-06-17, 08:02 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by providencebikes View Post
well on the 54 cm trek yes i need to change the stem and the saddle on my felt its a 58 i think or 56 i feel fine it just drags a little ...

i know they say this bike is really stiff and doesnt take bumps well but is it a decent buy specialized s works m4


https://www.ebay.com/itm/23226555429...torefresh=true
If I were you I'd look and test ride some next level bikes and see what you think.

The bike you linked is broken (needs a new shifter, and I personally would not put the 10-speed shifter he has on my 9-speed bike).
If it's not the right size then it's not a good buy. You mention 54, 56, 58, and that bike is a 59. What size do you need? Determine that and then look for bikes.

What does "Just drags a little..." mean? If it's dragging, check to make sure the brakes aren't rubbing.

If people are passing you, it's not because of the bike they are on. Unless your brakes are rubbing...
So if you get a new "next level" bike, don't expect to pass those people. But do expect smoother riding, smoother shifting, a more enjoyable ride.
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Old 11-06-17, 08:44 AM
  #22  
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To summarize if I have it right, you're not racing but you've worked pretty hard to improve, reached a plateau in fitness, and get passed on your rides by people riding better bikes, who you feel like you should beat. You have a Felt Z100 and ride 60 miles per week, consisting of two rides of a 26 mile loop plus warmup/cooldown.

I'll be frank in that aside from tires, newer better tech that the other guys use isn't going to help you keep up or pass those other guys. Tires, only a little bit, like .1 or .2 mph when you're going fast. More than likely, they ride more than 60 miles per week and more than two rides, and possibly do some specific training. So my advice, for this specific goal, is to splurge on fast rolling tires, lighten up where you get the best bang for the buck (probably wheels, and maybe crankset and shifters if you want to spend that much), and then increase the number and length of your rides. Incorporate intervals or hill repeats.
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Old 11-06-17, 11:01 AM
  #23  
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To follow up on all the other posts here ... get on a serious training program and stick to it. Ride when you don't enjoy it, ride when you do. Ride whatever the schedule says that day: intervals, hill repeats, whatever. Forget your pleasant cruises along your favorite loop---every mile should be focused on building strength, recovery, efficiency.

Wen you cannot ride out side kill yourself on the trainer. Pleasure means nothing---if you want to race you need to work, and you need to work. Do la little resistance training too.

If you buy a bike to get faster, it had better be a motorbike.
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Old 11-06-17, 12:07 PM
  #24  
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OP is going to be sorely disappointed when he gets a new bike but still gets dropped by those he deems to be "weaker" riders.
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Old 11-06-17, 01:38 PM
  #25  
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i wanted to update my z100 with a newer bottom bracket but man its confusing there are so many types , i can always get better wheels in the future but for now im just trying to get a better platform to build up

im thinking a
2016 Cannondale CAAD12 105
or
2009 specialized tarmac comp

they are in the size i need and i like these two , models ,

Last edited by providencebikes; 11-06-17 at 02:17 PM.
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