Catch-22
#1
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Catch-22
So, when buying a new bike, one will obviously debate all the pros and cons of the two or three one has narrowed it down to. When asking for advice on them, "ride all that you like and choose the one that feels the best to you" will invariably follow. Great advice, but therein lies the problem...
Within a 100 mile radius, you're lucky to find a LBS that even has one of the several you're considering, much less in your exact size (especially x-large). Oh, all can get one in for you, ...if paid upfront. If not paid-in-full, at least half down. Non-refundable, with applying the amount to store credit is the best possible option most will offer.
Bike shops don't want to "be stuck" with a bike they might have a hard time selling, buy yet expects a customer to buy (or be commited to them only) first without seeing the bike up close and taking some test rides.
Any logical solutions to this dilemma that won't put either at a disadvantage?
Within a 100 mile radius, you're lucky to find a LBS that even has one of the several you're considering, much less in your exact size (especially x-large). Oh, all can get one in for you, ...if paid upfront. If not paid-in-full, at least half down. Non-refundable, with applying the amount to store credit is the best possible option most will offer.
Bike shops don't want to "be stuck" with a bike they might have a hard time selling, buy yet expects a customer to buy (or be commited to them only) first without seeing the bike up close and taking some test rides.
Any logical solutions to this dilemma that won't put either at a disadvantage?
#2
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know your size
pick a color you love
get the best components you can afford
pull the trigger and order it
pick a color you love
get the best components you can afford
pull the trigger and order it
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I rarely test ride my bicycles before purchasing them.
But I do know what my frame dimensions should be.
But I do know what my frame dimensions should be.
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#4
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#5
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Of my current bikes (14) I test rode only 3 of them prior to purchase.
#6
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I was surprised to get reminded that of the 18 bikes I’ve owned in 30 years, I actually tested 7, as they were LBS purchased. It helps to live in an urban area where the shops keep stuff in stock and that I’m not an odd size. It also helps to know what works and to be able to order and build up frames.
Personally and if I couldn’t get support from a shop to not require an up front purchase, I’d get fitted (and pay for it), then go online.
Personally and if I couldn’t get support from a shop to not require an up front purchase, I’d get fitted (and pay for it), then go online.
#7
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This is mostly a newbie problem, since they often don't know what they fit, or even what they necessarily want/need. In this case actually riding the bike is quite important... much more so than the minor differences in details between manufactures and models that many noobs end up fretting over. The "solution" would be to only buy what you could try... even if it means choosing from less options.
#8
Senior Member
So, when buying a new bike, one will obviously debate all the pros and cons of the two or three one has narrowed it down to. When asking for advice on them, "ride all that you like and choose the one that feels the best to you" will invariably follow. Great advice, but therein lies the problem...
Within a 100 mile radius, you're lucky to find a LBS that even has one of the several you're considering, much less in your exact size (especially x-large). Oh, all can get one in for you, ...if paid upfront. If not paid-in-full, at least half down. Non-refundable, with applying the amount to store credit is the best possible option most will offer.
Bike shops don't want to "be stuck" with a bike they might have a hard time selling, buy yet expects a customer to buy (or be commited to them only) first without seeing the bike up close and taking some test rides.
Any logical solutions to this dilemma that won't put either at a disadvantage?
Within a 100 mile radius, you're lucky to find a LBS that even has one of the several you're considering, much less in your exact size (especially x-large). Oh, all can get one in for you, ...if paid upfront. If not paid-in-full, at least half down. Non-refundable, with applying the amount to store credit is the best possible option most will offer.
Bike shops don't want to "be stuck" with a bike they might have a hard time selling, buy yet expects a customer to buy (or be commited to them only) first without seeing the bike up close and taking some test rides.
Any logical solutions to this dilemma that won't put either at a disadvantage?
#9
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Does this mean Another bike, or your first bike?
It seems you know your general size. Do you have a bike that fits already which you want to replace? Or just N+1?
I own a yard-sale bike, a bike which shouldn't fit which was .... well its very complicated but I ended up getting a bike someone else chose for someone else and I like it, luckily .... a Craigslist bike I "test-rode" around a parking lot mostly to see that the levers all worked, a bike which is too big that I bought because ti was almost free, and three bikes I bought online.
If you are new to cycling .... then sorry, but your best bet is to drive to a few shops regardless of time and cost, and make sure you know your size at least .... or pay to get a fitting.
This online utility works wonders for some and is garbage for others. Roll the dice: https://www.competitivecyclist.com/S...ulatorBike.jsp
I used those measurements, and a Dollar Store elementary school drafting kit to make a mechanical drawing of the bike i wanted, and using that, and measurements from existing bikes, figured out what size I needed. Once you know basically what you need in stack, reach, and saddle setback you can work out sizing from published geometry charts.
Also ... it helps to know what you like in a bike and what you like a bike to do, and like to do with a bike.
If you have No clue, then try thrift stores and yard sales, and very cheap bikes on EBay. Or, for $100, get a seven-speed flatbar bike from Wally's Box. From there you can learn about maintenance (not kidding but sort of) but you can also find how you like to ride, and you can learn where you like your contact points to be.
Once you figure out where saddle, pedals, and handlebars need to be for You to be comfortable, you can shop online with confidence.
As for the less quantifiable "feel" of a bike, tires are the biggest issue, followed maybe by wheels. .... and in terms of geometry, head-tube angle. If the bike has a 74-degree head-tube angle, every time you sneeze you will switch lanes. If the head tube is at has 67 degrees, every time you push the bars you will turn ... tomorrow (basically.)
Longer chain stays and a longer wheelbase tend to mean a bike which corners a bit more slowly ... but if you are not racing ... meh. Just a thing, not a huge thing.
Ask about tire clearance. A bike which can handle max 25-mm tires is probably meant for (or fancies itself to be meant for) rapid riders who aren't interested in comfort. 35-45 mm and it is more a gravel/touring bike, with wheels And tires which are probably heavier and a little more sluggish. 28 mm seems to be the happy medium for comfort and speed nowadays.
Beyond all that ... we need details.
It seems you know your general size. Do you have a bike that fits already which you want to replace? Or just N+1?
I own a yard-sale bike, a bike which shouldn't fit which was .... well its very complicated but I ended up getting a bike someone else chose for someone else and I like it, luckily .... a Craigslist bike I "test-rode" around a parking lot mostly to see that the levers all worked, a bike which is too big that I bought because ti was almost free, and three bikes I bought online.
If you are new to cycling .... then sorry, but your best bet is to drive to a few shops regardless of time and cost, and make sure you know your size at least .... or pay to get a fitting.
This online utility works wonders for some and is garbage for others. Roll the dice: https://www.competitivecyclist.com/S...ulatorBike.jsp
I used those measurements, and a Dollar Store elementary school drafting kit to make a mechanical drawing of the bike i wanted, and using that, and measurements from existing bikes, figured out what size I needed. Once you know basically what you need in stack, reach, and saddle setback you can work out sizing from published geometry charts.
Also ... it helps to know what you like in a bike and what you like a bike to do, and like to do with a bike.
If you have No clue, then try thrift stores and yard sales, and very cheap bikes on EBay. Or, for $100, get a seven-speed flatbar bike from Wally's Box. From there you can learn about maintenance (not kidding but sort of) but you can also find how you like to ride, and you can learn where you like your contact points to be.
Once you figure out where saddle, pedals, and handlebars need to be for You to be comfortable, you can shop online with confidence.
As for the less quantifiable "feel" of a bike, tires are the biggest issue, followed maybe by wheels. .... and in terms of geometry, head-tube angle. If the bike has a 74-degree head-tube angle, every time you sneeze you will switch lanes. If the head tube is at has 67 degrees, every time you push the bars you will turn ... tomorrow (basically.)
Longer chain stays and a longer wheelbase tend to mean a bike which corners a bit more slowly ... but if you are not racing ... meh. Just a thing, not a huge thing.
Ask about tire clearance. A bike which can handle max 25-mm tires is probably meant for (or fancies itself to be meant for) rapid riders who aren't interested in comfort. 35-45 mm and it is more a gravel/touring bike, with wheels And tires which are probably heavier and a little more sluggish. 28 mm seems to be the happy medium for comfort and speed nowadays.
Beyond all that ... we need details.
#10
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I build my own d*mn bikes, that way I have only myself to blame.
So far, it has worked out well. My least favorite bike turned out to be my daughter's favorite bike, so everybody's happy!
So far, it has worked out well. My least favorite bike turned out to be my daughter's favorite bike, so everybody's happy!
#11
Senior Member
Personally and if I couldn’t get support from a shop to not require an up front purchase, I’d get fitted (and pay for it), then go online.[/QUOTE]
I personally take great exception to a merchant requiring a customer to pay for a fitting! Do pay at the shoe store or the carpet store?
Just my opinion.
Cheers,
David
Way up North
I personally take great exception to a merchant requiring a customer to pay for a fitting! Do pay at the shoe store or the carpet store?
Just my opinion.
Cheers,
David
Way up North
#12
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Don't over think this. Unless you're a seasoned rider with very specific preferences, most bikes are fairly similar at any given price point.
So, think about what features/components you're looking for, find a shop that has a bike that fits the bill in stock and test ride it. If you like it, buy, if not go to the next shop.
So, think about what features/components you're looking for, find a shop that has a bike that fits the bill in stock and test ride it. If you like it, buy, if not go to the next shop.
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#13
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If you feel more comfortable buying a good bike from a store that allows returns, go to REI. You’ll have Year to determine if the bike works for you. Is there anywhere else that gives you enough time to put a couple hundred miles on a bike and then return it if necessary?
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Some days, it's not even worth gnawing through the restraints.
Some days, it's not even worth gnawing through the restraints.
#14
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Don't over think this. Unless you're a seasoned rider with very specific preferences, most bikes are fairly similar at any given price point.
So, think about what features/components you're looking for, find a shop that has a bike that fits the bill in stock and test ride it. If you like it, buy, if not go to the next shop.
So, think about what features/components you're looking for, find a shop that has a bike that fits the bill in stock and test ride it. If you like it, buy, if not go to the next shop.
A 200-mile round trip is not cheap, but it needn't unpleasant. Stock up your Ipod or phone with all your favorite toons .... not my favorite way to spend time but when required, it beats digging foundation footings in August.
#15
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By the 3rd road bike you should know what road bike to get.
But if you mix them up - as in 1 road bike + 1 mountain bike + a tandem, then choosing a new one might seem something of a risk.
Nashville has a good many bike shops - if you narrowed it down to 2 or 3 that aren't available, maybe you narrowed it too much. Cab you give us more details for a better answer? Or is this just a 'complain about LBS' thread? I'm a large bike size, too - can identify with the lack of 60+cm frames stocked and assembled.
But if you mix them up - as in 1 road bike + 1 mountain bike + a tandem, then choosing a new one might seem something of a risk.
Nashville has a good many bike shops - if you narrowed it down to 2 or 3 that aren't available, maybe you narrowed it too much. Cab you give us more details for a better answer? Or is this just a 'complain about LBS' thread? I'm a large bike size, too - can identify with the lack of 60+cm frames stocked and assembled.
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Vintage, modern, e-road. It is a big cycling universe.
#16
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This is mostly a newbie problem, since they often don't know what they fit, or even what they necessarily want/need. In this case actually riding the bike is quite important... much more so than the minor differences in details between manufactures and models that many noobs end up fretting over. The "solution" would be to only buy what you could try... even if it means choosing from less options.
That's what I did with my first few bicycles ... and then, once I knew what I wanted, I didn't need to test ride as much anymore.
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My fave photo threads on BF
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#17
Senior Member
So, when buying a new bike, one will obviously debate all the pros and cons of the two or three one has narrowed it down to. When asking for advice on them, "ride all that you like and choose the one that feels the best to you" will invariably follow. Great advice, but therein lies the problem...
Within a 100 mile radius, you're lucky to find a LBS that even has one of the several you're considering, much less in your exact size (especially x-large)...
...
Within a 100 mile radius, you're lucky to find a LBS that even has one of the several you're considering, much less in your exact size (especially x-large)...
...
Looking at "Endurance" offerings there are 3 models and 2 of them are $3.5K or more. So, that leaves... 3 models of Giant's 'Defy Advanced' ranging from $1,685 to 2,425 and the XL fits riders 6'2 - 6'4
https://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/defy-advanced-3
#18
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would you really want a bike so rare that it couldn't be found in a store somewhere? meaning, I find it safer to by a bike that is popular (but then, I only buy pre-owned)
#19
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So, when buying a new bike, one will obviously debate all the pros and cons of the two or three one has narrowed it down to. When asking for advice on them, "ride all that you like and choose the one that feels the best to you" will invariably follow. Great advice, but therein lies the problem...
Within a 100 mile radius, you're lucky to find a LBS that even has one of the several you're considering, much less in your exact size (especially x-large). Oh, all can get one in for you, ...if paid upfront. If not paid-in-full, at least half down. Non-refundable, with applying the amount to store credit is the best possible option most will offer.
Bike shops don't want to "be stuck" with a bike they might have a hard time selling, buy yet expects a customer to buy (or be commited to them only) first without seeing the bike up close and taking some test rides.
Any logical solutions to this dilemma that won't put either at a disadvantage?
Within a 100 mile radius, you're lucky to find a LBS that even has one of the several you're considering, much less in your exact size (especially x-large). Oh, all can get one in for you, ...if paid upfront. If not paid-in-full, at least half down. Non-refundable, with applying the amount to store credit is the best possible option most will offer.
Bike shops don't want to "be stuck" with a bike they might have a hard time selling, buy yet expects a customer to buy (or be commited to them only) first without seeing the bike up close and taking some test rides.
Any logical solutions to this dilemma that won't put either at a disadvantage?
#20
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So, when buying a new bike, one will obviously debate all the pros and cons of the two or three one has narrowed it down to. When asking for advice on them, "ride all that you like and choose the one that feels the best to you" will invariably follow. Great advice, but therein lies the problem...
Within a 100 mile radius, you're lucky to find a LBS that even has one of the several you're considering, much less in your exact size (especially x-large). Oh, all can get one in for you, ...if paid upfront. If not paid-in-full, at least half down. Non-refundable, with applying the amount to store credit is the best possible option most will offer.
Bike shops don't want to "be stuck" with a bike they might have a hard time selling, buy yet expects a customer to buy (or be commited to them only) first without seeing the bike up close and taking some test rides.
Any logical solutions to this dilemma that won't put either at a disadvantage?
Within a 100 mile radius, you're lucky to find a LBS that even has one of the several you're considering, much less in your exact size (especially x-large). Oh, all can get one in for you, ...if paid upfront. If not paid-in-full, at least half down. Non-refundable, with applying the amount to store credit is the best possible option most will offer.
Bike shops don't want to "be stuck" with a bike they might have a hard time selling, buy yet expects a customer to buy (or be commited to them only) first without seeing the bike up close and taking some test rides.
Any logical solutions to this dilemma that won't put either at a disadvantage?
…The [steel] Bridgestone was totaled in 2012 in an accident from which I was not sure I would ride again. Well I did, and decided to get a CF. My trusted mechanic said here’s the bike you want, knowing my riding style. Well the MSRP was $8000, but he got it for me at half off…
Personally, I can afford it, and it was an offer I could not refuse. Cycling is that important to me and I’m fortunate to be able to continue the lifestyle,so that puts it in perspective for me.
I think it took me a while to really appreciate the quality of my current bike, which as noted I bought virtually on a recommendation. After four years I'm happy with my choice.
Personally, I can afford it, and it was an offer I could not refuse. Cycling is that important to me and I’m fortunate to be able to continue the lifestyle,so that puts it in perspective for me.
My average speed stayed the same, but I think I was hampered by injuries from the accident, and I believe the new bike compensated at least to maintainmy average speed. I did note that I was more inclined to sprint (successfully) to beat traffic lights before they turned red.
I further craved the smoothness of the ride, including the shifting, making cycle-commuting more pleasurable. Of greatest benefit, while long (greater than 40 mile) rides took the same amount of time as before, I felt much less tired at the end…
“At least I have no buyer's remorse about what I might be missing.”
I further craved the smoothness of the ride, including the shifting, making cycle-commuting more pleasurable. Of greatest benefit, while long (greater than 40 mile) rides took the same amount of time as before, I felt much less tired at the end…
“At least I have no buyer's remorse about what I might be missing.”
Last edited by Jim from Boston; 02-06-18 at 06:08 AM.
#21
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This is mostly a newbie problem, since they often don't know what they fit, or even what they necessarily want/need. In this case actually riding the bike is quite important... much more so than the minor differences in details between manufactures and models that many noobs end up fretting over. The "solution" would be to only buy what you could try... even if it means choosing from less options.
When I bought my Fuji a few years ago, after riding big box store bikes for too many years, I must have tried out 5 or 6 different bikes that day, some being taken for test rides more than once. I think I spent about three hours at the LBS that day. I had to. I was tired of riding crappy bikes and wanted to make sure I was buying the best bike that I could afford (had about a $500 budget). In the end, the Fuji won out and it hasn't disappointed me yet.
#22
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If you feel more comfortable buying a good bike from a store that allows returns, go to REI. You’ll have Year to determine if the bike works for you. Is there anywhere else that gives you enough time to put a couple hundred miles on a bike and then return it if necessary?
There was a thread a while back by a poster who used their new bike extensively for an extended period, and then returned it for refund. There was quite a dust up about it, as many thought it wrong to do so the way he/she did.
#23
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The only bike I ever test rode was one I never intended to buy. It was a great ride, but far too rich for my blood (Serotta Ottrot, 2004-ish, I think it was in the $10K neighborhood even then). I test rode neither my off-the-shelf bike nor my custom frame. I futzed around with the saddle position, drop, did it again periodically as I changed saddles, pedals, shoes over the years.
I'm not spending 6 hours a day, 5 or more days a week, in the saddle, so I think it is acceptable to get the fit close and my body (so far) seems to be able to adjust to minor differences. One of my bikes is a touring bike, one is a "stage racing" geo, so the differences in riding position and handling are fairly significant. I've ridden each on 100+ mi rides with no problems.
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I'm not spending 6 hours a day, 5 or more days a week, in the saddle, so I think it is acceptable to get the fit close and my body (so far) seems to be able to adjust to minor differences. One of my bikes is a touring bike, one is a "stage racing" geo, so the differences in riding position and handling are fairly significant. I've ridden each on 100+ mi rides with no problems.
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#24
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What @FBinNY said. If you are buying something special order that no one around you stocks, you should probably already have an idea of what you need, otherwise why did you come to the conclusion you need THAT bike? Otherwise, pick something you like that you can try locally and just go with that.
I ordered my fat bike sight unseen, because after riding a few locally that I was trying to compromise on price or equipment, I just realized that fit all of them fell into something I could make work for me anyhow. Took a new stem when it arrived, but it feels as good as any others I test rode.
PB does. Had the please of sitting behind one of those people in line to check out one day, returning a bike a couple days shy of 365 days that had obviously been used and abused, with them arguing with the only sales person about the damages they were going to deduct from the refunds that PB didn't even want to give them because of condition. The wife was already picking out new bikes almost identical to what they had, what they were up to was painfully obvious.
Then again, I scored my like-new Mazama for 75% off because someone bought it and decided after a year that they were never going to ride it, so I don't always hate the policy
I ordered my fat bike sight unseen, because after riding a few locally that I was trying to compromise on price or equipment, I just realized that fit all of them fell into something I could make work for me anyhow. Took a new stem when it arrived, but it feels as good as any others I test rode.
Performance Bike and/or Nashbar does, I believe.
There was a thread a while back by a poster who used their new bike extensively for an extended period, and then returned it for refund. There was quite a dust up about it, as many thought it wrong to do so the way he/she did.
There was a thread a while back by a poster who used their new bike extensively for an extended period, and then returned it for refund. There was quite a dust up about it, as many thought it wrong to do so the way he/she did.
Then again, I scored my like-new Mazama for 75% off because someone bought it and decided after a year that they were never going to ride it, so I don't always hate the policy
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There was a thread a while back by a poster who used their new bike extensively for an extended period, and then returned it for refund. There was quite a dust up about it, as many thought it wrong to do so the way he/she did.
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Some days, it's not even worth gnawing through the restraints.
Some days, it's not even worth gnawing through the restraints.