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"Tubeless ready"

Old 04-24-18, 05:28 PM
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"Tubeless ready"

I read that before considering going tubeless, be sure your wheel is "tubless ready." I had thought that all wheels were tubleles ready, but the tire is the the critical item that has to be tubless ready.

I have a 3 year-old Specialized Crave hardtail Montain bike and I'd like to go tubless by replacing the tires using the same wheels.
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Old 04-24-18, 05:50 PM
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Apparently, if the trim level of your bike came with the Stout XC SL 29" wheels that are tubeless ready, they will be marked "2Bliss" somewhere on the inside of the rim.
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Old 04-24-18, 06:03 PM
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It seems the rim bead seat has a little raised inside edge, on the fancy ones ..

but go for it , you obviously have to have an airtight seal rip strip, and a valve stem to fill that hole ..
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Old 04-25-18, 09:53 AM
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OP, both the tire and rim have to be "tubeless ready, else kablooie and sealant everywhere. If your rims and tires are not both tubeless ready, I wouldn't attempt it.

As far as I know, the only wheels that can be made "ghetto tubeless" are those on fat bikes. (by which I mean a non-tubeless ready tire can be made to run tubeless on a non-tubeless ready rim, or some combination thereof.) Because the pressures are so low, basically.
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Old 04-26-18, 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Wheever
OP, both the tire and rim have to be "tubeless ready, else kablooie and sealant everywhere. If your rims and tires are not both tubeless ready, I wouldn't attempt it.

As far as I know, the only wheels that can be made "ghetto tubeless" are those on fat bikes. (by which I mean a non-tubeless ready tire can be made to run tubeless on a non-tubeless ready rim, or some combination thereof.) Because the pressures are so low, basically.
Not so. I have converted Dyad "non-tubeless-ready" rims to tubeless with no problem and mounted "tubeless-ready" Schwalbe Almotions on them. There's a bit of leakage when the tires are first mounted but it settles down quickly. Use a couple of layers of carefully installed tubeless rim tape and tubeless valves and you'll probably be fine.

My understanding is that tubeless rims will seal better and faster and perhaps not need a high pressure pop to get the initial seal. Tubeless tires have a redesigned bead and the compound is designed to resist air exfiltration.
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Old 09-15-18, 08:50 PM
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Hello Folks; I am new to this forum but have had lots of experience with tube and tubeless fat bikes. Here are my findings:
1. Pros: Definitely reduces a lot of weight. I have a levo by Specialized with turbo assist and really huge fat tires.
2. Cons: I lose air all the time. The fluid inside has not helped in sealing any issues. The ribs near joints let air out slowly. I have had it fixed several times.

I am going back to tubes! I would rather take the chance with a flat (which may never happen or at least happen less frequently than loosing air every couple of days.
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Old 09-15-18, 09:34 PM
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My exp in tubeless is mtb is easier than road , at least competively . you need to reasearch and find road specific products made for the higher psi . the only difference in reliabilty is your tape seal , you will loose air in both systems usually at the aame rate but , tubeless is better at lower psi . if you do go tubeless i would look for a rim thats already sealed . i dont lnow how easy or hard it is to find a fully seal tubeless wheel thats competition worthy for road racing. I think tubeless road is great when it works . you can always bring a tube or two .
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Old 09-16-18, 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by nrsmd
I read that before considering going tubeless, be sure your wheel is "tubless ready." I had thought that all wheels were tubleles ready, but the tire is the the critical item that has to be tubless ready.

I have a 3 year-old Specialized Crave hardtail Montain bike and I'd like to go tubless by replacing the tires using the same wheels.
For best results they definitely need to be tubeless ready, however you can make it work on certain rims.

Some weeks ago I converted my wheels to tubeless, both the rims and tires are not tubeless ready, and I've put a couple of hundred miles on them already without issue.

So, it can work, but be ready for anything.
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Old 09-16-18, 09:53 PM
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I've done ghetto tubeless on non tubeless rims and non tubeless tires. It worked fine. Great actually. Slime works better than Stan's for ghetto. You need an air compressor to get started.

Don't do that on a road bike, you need the "ready" version due to high pressure and high consequences of a flat.
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Old 09-19-18, 01:42 PM
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Tubeless ability has more to do with the rims than the tires. Rims capable of being used as tubeless have a spoke well and risers either side. The tire sides have to fit rather tightly on these risers and the sides of the tires that are inside the rims have to be soft enough to seal against the sides of the rims without leaking air though the sealant can seal minor rim leaks. Mavic has UST rims in which there are no spoke holes inside. I haven't seen one in person so I don't know how they get nipples into the outer section of the rim. But apparently they leak very little because of this.

My use of tubeless road tires is that you can stop carrying that heavy flat repair kit. While it's possible to get a hole too big for sealant to handle this would also be too big to repair on a clincher. I intend to convert all my bikes.

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Old 09-28-18, 12:07 AM
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Mavic ust wheels have holes and require tape .
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