Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > General Cycling Discussion
Reload this Page >

Help, converting to single speed!

Search
Notices
General Cycling Discussion Have a cycling related question or comment that doesn't fit in one of the other specialty forums? Drop on in and post in here! When possible, please select the forum above that most fits your post!

Help, converting to single speed!

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 07-11-18, 01:55 PM
  #1  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 100
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 51 Post(s)
Liked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Help, converting to single speed!

Hi,


I am new here and this is my first post.


I am planning to convert my 5 years old mountain geared bike to single speed. I have already removed the shifters but for now, as I have not bought the crankset and rear sprocket yet for single speed, I kept the actual rear sprocket and front chain rings as well as the rear derailleur for chain tension.


I tested my chain on the different rear sprocket and front crank, which obviously gave me different results. After few testings, I found that my smallest front crank of 28T with a rear sprocket of 18T is good. This can permit me to ride uphills quite easily. However, I did not test few of the rest sprocket teeth of both front and rear. But it seems, the smaller the crank, the lower the gear is.


Guys, this is my first time single speed conversion. I cycle since 23 years and I have few mechanical knowkedge on bike. However, I still need help and advise. Here are my questions below:


1/ I will cycle on uphills quite often, road and earthly tracks . What is the appropriate rear sprocket size and number of teeth and front crank size and number of teeth you recommend?


2/ A mechanical scientific question. Is it true size of a front crank does not matter but it is more like the number of teeth which matters the most?


3/ Is it true, the more teeth a sprocket or crank has, the less harder it is to pedal?


4/ Is it true, the smaller the front crank is, the better it is to pedal?


An additional note, I am.using a 26' wheel/tyre.


Thank you very much!

Last edited by alij2018; 07-11-18 at 02:15 PM. Reason: A mistake
alij2018 is offline  
Old 07-11-18, 02:37 PM
  #2  
Banned
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: NW,Oregon Coast
Posts: 43,598

Bikes: 8

Mentioned: 197 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7607 Post(s)
Liked 1,355 Times in 862 Posts
you have to figure out the gear ratio that works for you try 2:1 for a start..
18:36? 18:28 is 1.5:1..

a)There are 135 single speed hubs, to build a wheel around,
b)cassette spacer sets to leave only 1 cog, on an existing cassette hub,
and c) perhaps just get a common freewheel hub , a longer axle ,
and spacers and center that hub
where your single freewheel chainline works best.





....

Last edited by fietsbob; 07-11-18 at 03:22 PM.
fietsbob is offline  
Old 07-11-18, 03:10 PM
  #3  
Old fart
 
JohnDThompson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Appleton WI
Posts: 24,784

Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.

Mentioned: 153 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3587 Post(s)
Liked 3,400 Times in 1,934 Posts
Originally Posted by alij2018
1/ I will cycle on uphills quite often, road and earthly tracks . What is the appropriate rear sprocket size and number of teeth and front crank size and number of teeth you recommend?
That depends on your hills and your legs. As I get older, I find I need lower gears. Currently, my fixed gear ride has 44 front/17 rear gearing.

As you still have all your rear cogs and front chainrings installed, try different combinations to see what works for you.

2/ A mechanical scientific question. Is it true size of a front crank does not matter but it is more like the number of teeth which matters the most?
By "size of front crank" do you mean the length of the arms? On a fixed gear bike, shorter arms provide more clearance so you can take corners faster. But it sounds like you'r building a single-speed, not a fixed gear, so you can coast through corners if you need to, and ground clearance isn't a concern.

Tooth count determines the gear ratio. Fewer teeth in front means lower gears, fewer teeth in back means higher gears.

3/ Is it true, the more teeth a sprocket or crank has, the less harder it is to pedal?
Fewer teeth in front makes it easier to pedal; more teeth in back makes it easier to pedal. But easier to pedal also means you'll hit your maximum pedaling RPMs sooner. On a fixed gear, this can be an issue with long downhills, but if you have a freewheeling cog, you can always coast.


4/ Is it true, the smaller the front crank is, the better it is to pedal?
The fewer teeth in front, the easier it is to pedal, but also slower. Whether that makes it "better" is a subjective judgement.
JohnDThompson is offline  
Old 07-11-18, 10:16 PM
  #4  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 100
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 51 Post(s)
Liked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Originally Posted by JohnDThompson
That depends on your hills and your legs. As I get older, I find I need lower gears. Currently, my fixed gear ride has 44 front/17 rear gearing.

As you still have all your rear cogs and front chainrings installed, try different combinations to see what works for you.

By "size of front crank" do you mean the length of the arms? On a fixed gear bike, shorter arms provide more clearance so you can take corners faster. But it sounds like you'r building a single-speed, not a fixed gear, so you can coast through corners if you need to, and ground clearance isn't a concern.

Tooth count determines the gear ratio. Fewer teeth in front means lower gears, fewer teeth in back means higher gears.

Fewer teeth in front makes it easier to pedal; more teeth in back makes it easier to pedal. But easier to pedal also means you'll hit your maximum pedaling RPMs sooner. On a fixed gear, this can be an issue with long downhills, but if you have a freewheeling cog, you can always coast.

The fewer teeth in front, the easier it is to pedal, but also slower. Whether that makes it "better" is a subjective judgement.
Thank you for reply. The size of the front crank I meant the size of the gear. I still have 3 in front as I have not changed to a single speed crankset yet.

When I tested, I placedmy chain to the smallest front gear which has 28T. And I used it with a 18T rear gear. It is good for me.

My question regarding the size was, does gear size plays a role or it's more on the number of teeth? Example, a bigger gear with 28T and a smaller gear with the same number of teeth provides the same performance?
alij2018 is offline  
Old 07-11-18, 10:32 PM
  #5  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Seattle
Posts: 4,264
Mentioned: 42 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1974 Post(s)
Liked 1,298 Times in 630 Posts
Originally Posted by alij2018
My question regarding the size was, does gear size plays a role or it's more on the number of teeth? Example, a bigger gear with 28T and a smaller gear with the same number of teeth provides the same performance?
They're directly proportional to each other.

Nearly every single bicycle chain ever made has links that are .5" long. So the teeth on gears are spaced .5" apart from each other. Consequentially, if you're trying to choose between two different 28T cogs for your drivetrain, you'll find that they're the same size.
HTupolev is offline  
Old 07-11-18, 11:13 PM
  #6  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 100
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 51 Post(s)
Liked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Originally Posted by HTupolev
They're directly proportional to each other.

Nearly every single bicycle chain ever made has links that are .5" long. So the teeth on gears are spaced .5" apart from each other. Consequentially, if you're trying to choose between two different 28T cogs for your drivetrain, you'll find that they're the same size.
So if I understood, it is more the number of teeth than the size of the gear which affects performance then!
I will test the other gears soon. And will see what's the best for me. Right now I see a rear sprocket of 18T and a front gear of 28T are cool.
alij2018 is offline  
Old 07-11-18, 11:19 PM
  #7  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Seattle
Posts: 4,264
Mentioned: 42 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1974 Post(s)
Liked 1,298 Times in 630 Posts
Originally Posted by alij2018
So if I understood, it is more the number of teeth than the size of the gear which affects performance then!
Yes, tooth count is the easy-to-use number that matters.
HTupolev is offline  
Old 07-12-18, 05:42 AM
  #8  
Tortoise Wins by a Hare!
 
AlmostTrick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Looney Tunes, IL
Posts: 7,398

Bikes: Wabi Special FG, Raleigh Roper, Nashbar AL-1, Miyata One Hundred, '70 Schwinn Lemonator and More!!

Mentioned: 22 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1549 Post(s)
Liked 941 Times in 504 Posts
Since you're probably going to remove the rear derailer, (if you haven't already) you'll also need to choose a gear combo that gives you good chain tension. You don't want it too tight or too loose. Most geared bikes have vertical drop outs that don't allow fastening the rear wheel in different positions. This is called finding the "Magic Gear".
AlmostTrick is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
coopman
Beach Cruisers
29
12-14-23 10:05 AM
squad51
Bicycle Mechanics
3
08-12-15 08:15 PM
goraman
Classic & Vintage
15
05-04-14 10:28 AM
wheelhorseman
Classic & Vintage
7
03-09-12 12:42 PM
Sblie44
Singlespeed & Fixed Gear
5
04-09-11 11:31 AM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.