Practical advice needed -- Pros/Cons of gravel bike configurations I'm considering
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Practical advice needed -- Pros/Cons of gravel bike configurations I'm considering
Hello -- I'm a casual rider looking at getting a bike that will serve multiple purposes. I would appreciate experienced riders' views on pros/cons of each model and configuration I'm looking at.
My usage:
- general purpose family rides, going to the grocery store with rack on the back, kids bikes knocking against it in the garage, so I believe aluminum frame makes most sense for toughness.
- I will be doing a 20km race as part of a Sprint triathlon relay team with my wife. I normally only do the swim legs of relays, so this will probably be the first and last event on the bike.
- Occasional fitness/fun rides of 30-40km
- I have fantasies of some day doing some light bike touring -- nothing exotic, not long-term stuff, not in emerging countries where components are hard to find -- and again, probably more of a fantasy than reality.
I think an aluminum gravel bike will fit my needs so I can put wider tires and be robust.
Which configuration would be the best balance choosing between below -- Each is roughly the same price, decent discounts available.
1) Specialized Diverge E5 Comp -- 105 components, but Spyre C mechanical brakes
2) Trek Checkpoint or Domane ALR 4 disc - Hydraulic discs, but Tiagra groupset
For the Specialized Diverge, what components would I need to change to convert to hydraulic and how much would it cost approximately? (I have access to 2018 used one at a very good price that could justify some upgrade cost depending on how much). I'm mechanically inclined and could do the work myself, would just need to buy the components.
Thanks in advance.
My usage:
- general purpose family rides, going to the grocery store with rack on the back, kids bikes knocking against it in the garage, so I believe aluminum frame makes most sense for toughness.
- I will be doing a 20km race as part of a Sprint triathlon relay team with my wife. I normally only do the swim legs of relays, so this will probably be the first and last event on the bike.
- Occasional fitness/fun rides of 30-40km
- I have fantasies of some day doing some light bike touring -- nothing exotic, not long-term stuff, not in emerging countries where components are hard to find -- and again, probably more of a fantasy than reality.
I think an aluminum gravel bike will fit my needs so I can put wider tires and be robust.
Which configuration would be the best balance choosing between below -- Each is roughly the same price, decent discounts available.
1) Specialized Diverge E5 Comp -- 105 components, but Spyre C mechanical brakes
2) Trek Checkpoint or Domane ALR 4 disc - Hydraulic discs, but Tiagra groupset
For the Specialized Diverge, what components would I need to change to convert to hydraulic and how much would it cost approximately? (I have access to 2018 used one at a very good price that could justify some upgrade cost depending on how much). I'm mechanically inclined and could do the work myself, would just need to buy the components.
Thanks in advance.
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I think you’re on the right track with your choices. My main, all-around bike is a Cannondale CAADX which is similar to the two you listed. I’ve had both mechanical and hydralic brakes o the CAADX (I sold my first one to a friend), and while the hydros are the better brake, the mechanicals worked very well after they were bedded in. If you get the mech brake bike, maybe hold off changing stuff out until you get a season under your belt on it. Both the Tiagra and 105 kits will work quite nicely, but I’ve found that the higher the component level, the smoother the bike is going to ride, shift, and perform. This style of bike really demands that you get on it to get the right size. For cyclocross-style bikes (which your choices are), you’ll need to check the bottom bracket height. Generally, CX bikes have a higher bottom bracket (measured from the ground) than a road bike. This meand that the seat tube measurement may not be the best indicator of the size you need. I typically ride a 58cm road bike, but my CAADX is a 56cm, and it fits me the same as my larger road bike. I am running 35mm Clement USH tires on my bike, and they serve me for everything from gravel rides to my longer road rides. Good luck with your choice!
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#3
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Why not use your hard rock for store trips / family rides, considering the rest of the family will need to keep up with you - and hone in on a bike more suited to the athletic endeavors you want to pursue. Depending on theft issues you may not want to lock a really nice bike up around town.
Al or Steel makes no difference in your application which, when you get right down to it, is simply a not too aggressive road bike with the ability to mount at least fenders or a rack. Neither materials are "more tough" in that regard. Even carbon would do though I might avoid it if I wanted a kick around bike simply because it would be a high priced bike to knock around as you say and the previously mentioned theft issue.
I would stay away from Hydraulic disc for your application, though I'm sure many latest and greatest gear lovers would disagree. They add a layer of complication that isn't required at this level. Canti's and calipers work great. Mechanical disc's even better and, unless you are doing extended downhill where hand grip becomes an issue, one has to ask "how much"' is enough considering the added complexity and cost involved.
Groupsets. A lot of people make a big deal out of one or the other but frankly, most riders can't even out ride Sora. If I could afford it and was buying a "dream" type bike I might consider 105 but even Taigra is very good quality for occasional recreational riding. Sure it's nice to have nice but it isn't that necessary.
Question to ask: Will the rest of the family have 105 and Hydraulic disc brakes? I know for myself, when I ride with family members I use an old single speed and still have to dial it down for them.
As to touring. That all depends on what you envision as touring. It can be full pannier tent etc... or credit card with just enough clothes and toiletries. That makes quite a difference in bikes. For the latter the relaxed road bike would be fine. For the former you would probably want a more robust bike which would in some ways detract from your stated short term fitness goals.
I have a 2016 aluminum Norco Valence Taigra with carbon fork and mechanical disc. Sort of what you are discussing. Great fitness bike, good for long day rides and long endurance rides or light bike packing road trips. I can mount a rear rack and full fenders. At $1400 it ticks all the boxes and doesn't break the bank. Other similar styles from other brands will do the same.
Al or Steel makes no difference in your application which, when you get right down to it, is simply a not too aggressive road bike with the ability to mount at least fenders or a rack. Neither materials are "more tough" in that regard. Even carbon would do though I might avoid it if I wanted a kick around bike simply because it would be a high priced bike to knock around as you say and the previously mentioned theft issue.
I would stay away from Hydraulic disc for your application, though I'm sure many latest and greatest gear lovers would disagree. They add a layer of complication that isn't required at this level. Canti's and calipers work great. Mechanical disc's even better and, unless you are doing extended downhill where hand grip becomes an issue, one has to ask "how much"' is enough considering the added complexity and cost involved.
Groupsets. A lot of people make a big deal out of one or the other but frankly, most riders can't even out ride Sora. If I could afford it and was buying a "dream" type bike I might consider 105 but even Taigra is very good quality for occasional recreational riding. Sure it's nice to have nice but it isn't that necessary.
Question to ask: Will the rest of the family have 105 and Hydraulic disc brakes? I know for myself, when I ride with family members I use an old single speed and still have to dial it down for them.
As to touring. That all depends on what you envision as touring. It can be full pannier tent etc... or credit card with just enough clothes and toiletries. That makes quite a difference in bikes. For the latter the relaxed road bike would be fine. For the former you would probably want a more robust bike which would in some ways detract from your stated short term fitness goals.
I have a 2016 aluminum Norco Valence Taigra with carbon fork and mechanical disc. Sort of what you are discussing. Great fitness bike, good for long day rides and long endurance rides or light bike packing road trips. I can mount a rear rack and full fenders. At $1400 it ticks all the boxes and doesn't break the bank. Other similar styles from other brands will do the same.
Last edited by Happy Feet; 10-12-18 at 09:55 PM.
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Thanks all. Appreciate the pragmatic thoughts.
- Between a Spyre-C/105 config and a hydraulic/Tiagra, which would you say is the better way to go? (assuming all else equal/comparable).
- Regarding "cyclocross" frame, my understanding is that the Diverge is considered more relaxed than a true CX bike. Agree? i.e. that the bottom bracket is lower, position more upright? (I'm 50 yrs old with some back issues, so I don't want to be leaning full forward). Between the Diverge, Checkpoint and Domane (or even Norco Search), which one(s) would you say have a more relaxed position?
Any estimates on how much the mech-to-hydraulic conversion would cost? (Assume I do the work myself). I agree with the advice to try the bike for a while before thinking of converting, but just wondering.
- Between a Spyre-C/105 config and a hydraulic/Tiagra, which would you say is the better way to go? (assuming all else equal/comparable).
- Regarding "cyclocross" frame, my understanding is that the Diverge is considered more relaxed than a true CX bike. Agree? i.e. that the bottom bracket is lower, position more upright? (I'm 50 yrs old with some back issues, so I don't want to be leaning full forward). Between the Diverge, Checkpoint and Domane (or even Norco Search), which one(s) would you say have a more relaxed position?
Any estimates on how much the mech-to-hydraulic conversion would cost? (Assume I do the work myself). I agree with the advice to try the bike for a while before thinking of converting, but just wondering.
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I would go Hydraulic/Tiagra over the Spyre/105. Tiagra is a fine groupset and hydraulic brakes are way better than mechanical. The cost to switch to hydraulic is whatever the cost of new shifters and brake calipers is. There is a set of 105 shifters and brake calipers on Ebay for $255.
#6
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Thanks all. Appreciate the pragmatic thoughts.
- Between a Spyre-C/105 config and a hydraulic/Tiagra, which would you say is the better way to go? (assuming all else equal/comparable).
- Regarding "cyclocross" frame, my understanding is that the Diverge is considered more relaxed than a true CX bike. Agree? i.e. that the bottom bracket is lower, position more upright? (I'm 50 yrs old with some back issues, so I don't want to be leaning full forward). Between the Diverge, Checkpoint and Domane (or even Norco Search), which one(s) would you say have a more relaxed position?
Any estimates on how much the mech-to-hydraulic conversion would cost? (Assume I do the work myself). I agree with the advice to try the bike for a while before thinking of converting, but just wondering.
- Between a Spyre-C/105 config and a hydraulic/Tiagra, which would you say is the better way to go? (assuming all else equal/comparable).
- Regarding "cyclocross" frame, my understanding is that the Diverge is considered more relaxed than a true CX bike. Agree? i.e. that the bottom bracket is lower, position more upright? (I'm 50 yrs old with some back issues, so I don't want to be leaning full forward). Between the Diverge, Checkpoint and Domane (or even Norco Search), which one(s) would you say have a more relaxed position?
Any estimates on how much the mech-to-hydraulic conversion would cost? (Assume I do the work myself). I agree with the advice to try the bike for a while before thinking of converting, but just wondering.
I have the TRP Spryre mechanical disks - nice, reliable brakes with about the same stopping power as a good rim brake. A quality hydr. brake like the Tiagras should be more powerful and should have a shorter stopping distance than mechanicals - would probably choose the hydraulic brakes, but you should try them both before deciding..
One consideration is the increased complexity of a hydr. disk brake. I think that the fluid reservoir for the Tiagra is built into the brake lever and the brake lines contain fluid (mineral oil?) from the lever all the way to each brake caliper. Adjustment of the pads may be pretty simple. But if you break a fluid line or if you have to bleed the system you will need some tools and knowledge - or take it to a bike shop.
Some hydr. disk brakes have the reservoir located at the caliper and there is a regular cable and housing from each brake lever to the caliper. This is a simpler system that still has the advantage of hydraulic power.
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Groupsets. A lot of people make a big deal out of one or the other but frankly, most riders can't even out ride Sora. If I could afford it and was buying a "dream" type bike I might consider 105 but even Taigra is very good quality for occasional recreational riding. Sure it's nice to have nice but it isn't that necessary.
As to touring. That all depends on what you envision as touring. It can be full pannier tent etc... or credit card with just enough clothes and toiletries. That makes quite a difference in bikes. For the latter the relaxed road bike would be fine. For the former you would probably want a more robust bike which would in some ways detract from your stated short term fitness goals.
As to touring. That all depends on what you envision as touring. It can be full pannier tent etc... or credit card with just enough clothes and toiletries. That makes quite a difference in bikes. For the latter the relaxed road bike would be fine. For the former you would probably want a more robust bike which would in some ways detract from your stated short term fitness goals.
Definitely think about what surfaces you might ride with your bike and what kind of tires it will take. I got my 'all-road' bike wanting to be able to ride flat unpaved roads. It turned out that riding mixed terrain is much more fun than I thought, so I've taken it on much rougher terrain than I wanted to - and it will take much wider tires than stock to cushion the ride. You might want to take your kids to a state park and ride the fire roads there, I know that my road bike would not be very comfortable for that with its max 28-30mm tires.
I usually ride Deore MTB components which I find to be pretty good but have 105 on mine and wife's road bikes. Both of us agree that 105 is much smoother and quicker to shift compared to Deore. I may be confusing Tiagra with Sora, but are these by any chance side-cable shifters with thumb levers? I would definitely recommend against that kind of a design, just a personal opinion though.
As far as brakes go... hydraulics are nice, very nice. Very smooth and easy to actuate. But I think they're more of a luxury then a necessity, at least on a non-MTB. I have the TRP Spyres you mention and they work just fine in all cases, even if I'm hauling 45 pounds of kid seat + kid on the back of the bike. In fact, I love disc brakes, yet I think there's no reason to get disc brakes if you never ever ride in the wet (or just do it occasionally when you get caught by the rain).
Most importantly, have you sat on any of these bikes? That's a very important factor.
#9
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In the 47 years I have been riding, there has never been a situation encountered that justify hydro disc brakes. Even when I raced mountain bikes the disc brake was there only because there were no studs for cantis. Why add the expense and additional annual maintenance? Add to that the guarantee line, caliper, and lever replacement/rebuilds 5 or 10 years down the road. A bicycle is a simple mechanism and stuff like this takes it far away from simplicity. Never mind the environmental impact the oil in the system creates.
Note, my son lives in Seattle, WA and his commuter has Spyre disc brakes. They work more than adequately. Pad replacement is seasonal, sometimes twice a season if it is particularly rainy. He agrees, hydro discs are unnecessary.
Gotta add, there is a sucker born every minute.
Note, my son lives in Seattle, WA and his commuter has Spyre disc brakes. They work more than adequately. Pad replacement is seasonal, sometimes twice a season if it is particularly rainy. He agrees, hydro discs are unnecessary.
Gotta add, there is a sucker born every minute.