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How to improve rim brake modulation

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Old 12-09-18, 01:43 PM
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How to improve rim brake modulation

I have Ultegra 6800 rim brakes (Roubaix Sl4) and would like to improve the modulation. I briefly had Chorus and really loved the brakes modulation (didn't like the shifting, so came back to Shimano).

Would changing the brakes to r8000 brakes improve significantly the modulation? If not, any other suggestion?

I have Easton alu clinchers, no carbon wheels. I have Swisstop BXP on one of my bikes (5800 105 brakes), did not perceive any improvment.
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Old 12-09-18, 01:56 PM
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want Hydraulic?

Other than new, softer, pads (its Kool Stop (salmon)*, made in Oregon,for me)
it's skill, more than parts ..

dual pivot?

* they have a black alloy rim compound too,
[ I have those in my classic Campag single pivot brakes]





..

Last edited by fietsbob; 12-09-18 at 02:03 PM.
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Old 12-09-18, 03:35 PM
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Switch to a different brake type. Dual pivot side pull brakes have poorer modulation by their design, where power is prioritised directly over modulation. a single pivot side pull has much better modulation. You could try a set of the newer dura ace rim brakes, as shimano *claims* better modulation. You could also try some u-type callipers like used on TT bikes. The best option I can think of, and probably the most expensive by far would be a set of ‘eeBrakes’ (now owned by CaneCreek). They have excellent modulation by design, (similar to the above mentioned u-type) and equal power to any current dual pivot. (With the simplicity in setup of a sidepull) But you’ll pay a lot for it. Or you could save a ton of money and switch to a set of older single pivots. You give up some overall stopping power but much better modulation. A set of newer (more recent) camapgnolo record single pivots would be an excellent choice, as would any older dura ace. The Campagnolo Record D ‘skeleton’ brake set could be worth looking into, but I don’t know if they will work with your shimano brifters. It has a single pivot rear brake and a dual pivot front, to give a choice of modulation for scrubbing speed at the rear wheel, and hard stopping power when needed at the front.

Simple fact is that you can’t significantly improve modulation in a design that literally prioritises power directly over modulation. So the simplist and cheapest answer is literallly single pivot side pulls.

I wouldn’t recommend hudraulic, and I don’t know why anyone would either. They don’t guarantee better modulation, just a lot of reliable stopping power.

Last edited by seamuis; 12-09-18 at 03:42 PM.
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Old 12-09-18, 04:23 PM
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I don't know. I'd do the easy and cheap thing first.

Replace the cables. Use good quality housing. Make sure it is actually brake housing and that the ends are cut square. Use ferrules on the ends. Make sure the housings are sized correctly and that they enter the levers, calipers and butt against the stops at a 90° angle. Koolstop dual compound pads are some of the best. Adjust everything perfectly including toeing in the pads. Then see how they feel.

5800 brakes sometimes develop play between the caliper halves. I'm told this can be adjusted out. I don't know if this happens with 6800 or 9100 brakes.


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Old 12-09-18, 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Jupamaso
any other suggestion?
Make sure that your housing routing is good.
1-Use a quality compressionless brake housing, so that the housing doesn't introduce any spongeyness to the cable pull.
2-Try to minimize sharp bends in the routing, as these increase cable friction.
3-Make sure that there are ferrules on the cable at any cable end locations that are designed to take ferrules.

If you're feeling ambitious, use fancy low-friction cables, such as Shimano's "Polymer Coated" brake cables.

Use good pads. Kool Stop's salmon or dual are always a safe bet.

Make sure the brake track on the rim, and the pads, are clean.

Make sure the wheel is true.

Make sure the pads are adjusted well.
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Old 12-09-18, 06:41 PM
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^^ none of these things will significantly improve modulation, because the dual pivot/cam design inherently reduces modulation for increased pull ratio, i.e. greater clamping force. (Aided by shorter and stiffer arms) Your brakes don’t have poor modulation because of your cables or housings, they have poor modulation by design, for better overall stopping power. This is exactly why campagnolo offered brakesets with a single pivot rear and dual pivot front.
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Old 12-09-18, 06:42 PM
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The best cheap fix is using good quality compressionless housing and cables (I like the Jagwire Elite Link, which also comes in colors) and good quality pads (I like SwissStop)

However my favorite would be the eeBrakes from Cane Creek, I have them on my Chilkoot and they are probably the best brakes I have ridden. I will soon have them on my new fixed gear as well (they are technically on now but the bike is not built) because I had to buy the El Chulo edition to match the bike and decided to keep the black ones i originally had because I knew a worthy project would come about. With the setup I have (Elite Link and SwissStop pads) they feel better than some of the hydraulic disc brakes I have ridden and are way better than any rim brakes I have used in the past. Most folks who have tried my bike say it is the best feel they have had for a rim brake.

I wouldn't go Campy simply because the brake release is on the levers for Campy meaning you would have a harder time with wheel swaps or flat fixes.
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Old 12-09-18, 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by seamuis
^^ none of these things will significantly improve modulation,
Maybe we need to define modulation.

Squeeze the lever harder and braking force increases proportionately. The ability to fine tune stopping power through lever force. Fair enough? Agree?

If so then worn components can certainly have an impact. Housing which compresses for example; squeezing the lever compresses the housing rather than causes the pads to press harder on the rim's braking surface. Metal and sand embedded in the pad can do the same thing - squeeze the lever and it just grinds the rim rather than slowing the bike more.

If this isn't your definition then please let us know how you define modulation. I'm not trying to challenge but sincerely trying to understand.


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Old 12-09-18, 08:27 PM
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I have never heard this term before. Sounds like an odd word to use for what might be considered (to me) as breaking efficiency.
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Old 12-09-18, 09:17 PM
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My understanding of modulation is basically when riding in a pack, to maintain your speed so you don't make contact with the rear wheel of the rider in front of you. You want to control slowing as necessary but not completely stop. Make sense?
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Old 12-09-18, 09:33 PM
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Modulation is the amount of lever pressure that can be applied between "the brakes, they do nothing!" and "my rear tire has stopped rotating, but I continue to move forward."

I have no complaints about my 6800 brakes. They modulate as well as any other rim brake I've used, and the dual pivot means I don't need to squeeze them with a vise-like grip to make 'em work. Full disclosure, I do have Jagwire Elite Link.
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Old 12-09-18, 10:52 PM
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Damn guys, you’re really letting me down here. Eleven posts and NOBODY mentions toeing in the brake pads?! Seriously?

OP, toe the pads slightly (I use about the thickness of a dime or penny) so the leading edge hits the rim first. The harder you squeeze, the more pad you bring into contact with the rim. Light squeeze? Then you just get the tip of the pad. Grab a handful and you’ll bring the full contact patch of the pad against the rim. I haven’t checked but I bet it’s on YouTube. Google it as well.


-Kedosto

Edited to add: So YouTube mentions toeing the pads to eliminate squeal, but it’s also great for modulation. I’m too lazy to dig it up for you deadbeats.

Last edited by Kedosto; 12-09-18 at 11:00 PM.
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Old 12-09-18, 10:56 PM
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Many factors so few derails.. anecdote;

relatively poor modulation, Avid BB7 Mtb calipers, 160 disc, 20" wheels
it was on or off.. black or white , Front of course more the villain..

replaced just the calipers, with TRP Hy Rd, hydraulic, integral, cable pulled,
and there was a grey portion , I could apply just a little friction,

Not have the bike stop out from underneath me.. falling down..




...
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Old 12-10-18, 04:03 AM
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Originally Posted by TimothyH
Maybe we need to define modulation.

Squeeze the lever harder and braking force increases proportionately. The ability to fine tune stopping power through lever force. Fair enough? Agree?

If so then worn components can certainly have an impact. Housing which compresses for example; squeezing the lever compresses the housing rather than causes the pads to press harder on the rim's braking surface. Metal and sand embedded in the pad can do the same thing - squeeze the lever and it just grinds the rim rather than slowing the bike more.

If this isn't your definition then please let us know how you define modulation. I'm not trying to challenge but sincerely trying to understand.


-Tim-
your understanding of modulation is accurate, and I don’t dispute that new cables and housing can be helpful, but you don’t even know what setup the OP has. For all you know he has brand new dura ace cables/housings. And yes, worn cables/housings can reduce modulation, in all brake types. This means replacing them can get back lost modulation, but it won’t give you more than what the brake is capable of. The problem is that you’re still missing half the picture here, and I’ve already explained it twice so far.

A single pivot brake has a 1:1 pull ratio. This gives good (more accurately: direct) modulation, but you have to pull hard to get the full stopping power. A dual pivot/cam brake has a more than 1:1 (I believe usually between 3-5:1) pull ratio. This means you don’t have to pull as hard to get full stopping power. Aided by smaller, stiffer brake arms, you get increased power. But this also means that your pull ISNT proportional, by design! To put it simply, the pull ratio, controlled by a cam, isn’t direct i.e not 1:1, this greatly decreases your ability to directly modulate (or control) the braking force applied. (This is why dual pivots are often described as “all the way off or all the way on”, also why single pivots were called ‘speed modulators’, which despite being an insult, is perfectly accurate.). You can’t ‘fix’ this with new cables and housings, because it’s inherent to the design. This is exactly the problem the ‘eeBrake’ tries to solve, which is why it’s so expensive. It’s also exactly why I copied what campagnolo did for a long time with a single in the rear and a dual in the front (in my case a dura ace 7403 dual up front and 7400 single in back.)

you can’t change the behaviour of the brake, with cables and housings. You can help brake feel, increase stopping power and marginally help improve modulation, but the basic dual pivot design has poor modulation, literally by design. A brake with 1:1 ratio, will have direct, more controllable modulation.

Last edited by seamuis; 12-10-18 at 04:34 AM.
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Old 12-10-18, 07:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Kedosto
Damn guys, you’re really letting me down here. Eleven posts and NOBODY mentions toeing in the brake pads?! Seriously?
You missed it. See post 4.


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Old 12-10-18, 07:36 AM
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Originally Posted by seamuis
your understanding of modulation is accurate, and I don’t dispute that new cables and housing can be helpful, but you don’t even know what setup the OP has. For all you know he has brand new dura ace cables/housings. And yes, worn cables/housings can reduce modulation, in all brake types. This means replacing them can get back lost modulation, but it won’t give you more than what the brake is capable of. The problem is that you’re still missing half the picture here, and I’ve already explained it twice so far.

A single pivot brake has a 1:1 pull ratio. This gives good (more accurately: direct) modulation, but you have to pull hard to get the full stopping power. A dual pivot/cam brake has a more than 1:1 (I believe usually between 3-5:1) pull ratio. This means you don’t have to pull as hard to get full stopping power. Aided by smaller, stiffer brake arms, you get increased power. But this also means that your pull ISNT proportional, by design! To put it simply, the pull ratio, controlled by a cam, isn’t direct i.e not 1:1, this greatly decreases your ability to directly modulate (or control) the braking force applied. (This is why dual pivots are often described as “all the way off or all the way on”, also why single pivots were called ‘speed modulators’, which despite being an insult, is perfectly accurate.). You can’t ‘fix’ this with new cables and housings, because it’s inherent to the design. This is exactly the problem the ‘eeBrake’ tries to solve, which is why it’s so expensive. It’s also exactly why I copied what campagnolo did for a long time with a single in the rear and a dual in the front (in my case a dura ace 7403 dual up front and 7400 single in back.)

you can’t change the behaviour of the brake, with cables and housings. You can help brake feel, increase stopping power and marginally help improve modulation, but the basic dual pivot design has poor modulation, literally by design. A brake with 1:1 ratio, will have direct, more controllable modulation.
Thank you for the bold/red. At least we are on the same page.

All I'm saying is that if the system needs maintenance, then that should be done first. Don't upgrade calipers if the existing system isn't already braking as it was designed to do. That's all. Nobody knows that the OP has apart from the fact that they are 6800 road calipers.

As to the rest of your post, I understand the design limitations of various braking systems but I do appreciate that you have explained it nonetheless.


-Tim-

Last edited by TimothyH; 12-10-18 at 07:42 AM.
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Old 12-10-18, 07:51 AM
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Originally Posted by TimothyH
Thank you for the bold/red. At least we are on the same page.

All I'm saying is that if the system needs maintenance, then that should be done first. Don't upgrade calipers if the existing system isn't already braking as it was designed to do. That's all. Nobody knows that the OP has apart from the fact that they are 6800 road calipers.

As to the rest of your post, I understand the design limitations of various braking systems but I do appreciate that you have explained it nonetheless.


-Tim-
we are in agreement, and I think explaining it out is at least, helpful in a general sense for the topic. I didn’t explain it out because I thought you specifically didn’t understand, so I hope you don’t think I was talking down to you in any way.

Yes, we don’t know anything except that the OP has 6800 dual pivot brakes. Common sense assumption though should follow that: the OP has ultegra cables/housings and pads. But we don’t know if they need to be replaced. I also agree that’s an easier way to start. Where I think we diverge is in making an assumption on the level of modulation the OP is seeking. This is why I specifically stated that new cables can restore lost modulation but can’t get you more modulation than the design allows. So it seems that you and others are working on the idea that he’s lost modulation, and I’m working on the assumption that the OP wants more modulation than what his dual pivot brakes can give. I work on this because he compares his 6800’s to other brakes (campagnolo chorus) and never mentioned that his 6800s have less modulation than before a previous point. Until we know which assumption is more accurate or factual, both sides of advice have merit. We’re just on opposite sides here.

Last edited by seamuis; 12-10-18 at 08:03 AM.
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Old 12-10-18, 09:59 AM
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Switch to hydraulic rim breaks
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Old 12-10-18, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Elvo
Switch to hydraulic rim breaks
Hydraulic won’t necessarily give you better modulation, just better consistent clamping force. It’s also an expensive and more complicated investment over standard cable actuated callipers. What hydraulic rim calipers would you suggest the OP invest in?
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Old 12-10-18, 10:42 AM
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I prefer rim brakes for where and how I ride. Mostly flat, always dry. I just replace the tandem discs with rim brakes.

There are differences in pads. Try several. What I like, you may not like. Think of pads, almost like stereo speakers. While there are certainly better ones, a lot of times it is just preference.
Brakes are different too, although the Ultegra should be fine. The Campy and Shimano feel different.

Cables and housing - big differences are felt in cable braid and coating and housing.
I find the PowerCordz https://www.powercordz.com/ (and housing) feel as smooth as hydraulics. They cost 3X as much and take 5X as much time to install. They can snap if nicked. I've gone to the metal on front and cordz for rear.
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Old 12-10-18, 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by seamuis


your understanding of modulation is accurate, and I don’t dispute that new cables and housing can be helpful, but you don’t even know what setup the OP has. For all you know he has brand new dura ace cables/housings. And yes, worn cables/housings can reduce modulation, in all brake types. This means replacing them can get back lost modulation, but it won’t give you more than what the brake is capable of. The problem is that you’re still missing half the picture here, and I’ve already explained it twice so far.

A single pivot brake has a 1:1 pull ratio. This gives good (more accurately: direct) modulation, but you have to pull hard to get the full stopping power. A dual pivot/cam brake has a more than 1:1 (I believe usually between 3-5:1) pull ratio. This means you don’t have to pull as hard to get full stopping power. Aided by smaller, stiffer brake arms, you get increased power. But this also means that your pull ISNT proportional, by design! To put it simply, the pull ratio, controlled by a cam, isn’t direct i.e not 1:1, this greatly decreases your ability to directly modulate (or control) the braking force applied. (This is why dual pivots are often described as “all the way off or all the way on”, also why single pivots were called ‘speed modulators’, which despite being an insult, is perfectly accurate.). You can’t ‘fix’ this with new cables and housings, because it’s inherent to the design. This is exactly the problem the ‘eeBrake’ tries to solve, which is why it’s so expensive. It’s also exactly why I copied what campagnolo did for a long time with a single in the rear and a dual in the front (in my case a dura ace 7403 dual up front and 7400 single in back.)

you can’t change the behaviour of the brake, with cables and housings. You can help brake feel, increase stopping power and marginally help improve modulation, but the basic dual pivot design has poor modulation, literally by design. A brake with 1:1 ratio, will have direct, more controllable modulation.
You're correct about the difference in pull ratio on single pivot vs dual pivot brakes. However, your discussion of modulation (as it relates to the human hand) is not quite complete. That's because modulation at the hands also involve muscle memory from the hand, and the only solution for improved modulation here is thru practice necessary for muscle memory. Users will need to learn to brake hard when the speed is high and then easy off on the clamp force as speed is reduced. That's how a dual pivot brake should be modulated. And thru enough practice, the muscle memory will come. Single pivot is great if the speed you're operating at is in the range of "slow to medium" and you require finer-grain stopping power. When when the speed is over 30 mph or you're on a dowhill, the single pivot become difficult to modulate because at higher speed you're now forced to "grab a handful of brake with 4 fingers" and the human hand muscle then become less sensitive to brake feel (thus you're getting less modulation feeling at higher speed). So, to conclude, it's a trade off between single vs dual pivot. Single pivot gives great modulation at low-medium speed, while dual pivot give better modulation at medium and more importantly at higher speed. Me, I'd the dual pivot for high speed modulation and then train my hand muscle for low speed modulation.
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Old 12-10-18, 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Jupamaso
I have Ultegra 6800 rim brakes (Roubaix Sl4) and would like to improve the modulation. I briefly had Chorus and really loved the brakes modulation (didn't like the shifting, so came back to Shimano).

Would changing the brakes to r8000 brakes improve significantly the modulation? If not, any other suggestion?

I have Easton alu clinchers, no carbon wheels. I have Swisstop BXP on one of my bikes (5800 105 brakes), did not perceive any improvment.
Ultegra 6800 brakes on aluminum rims are awesome, assuming every thing is working as is. Not too many people will complain about this. It sounds to me you just need some practice on how to operate the brakes so you can develop hand muscle memory.

The other thing is, how do you set your brake pad clearance. For good modulation, the pads should be as far from the rim as possible such that when you pull the brake lever fully, it should be pretty close to the handlebar. That is to say, when lever is fully pulled in, your fingers should be as close to the bar as possible without the lever actually touching the bar. At this position, the muscle in the fingers can fine tune its own power more easily than if the fingers were farther away from the bar. That's just how most human fingers work. So check your setup.
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Old 12-10-18, 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by seamuis


we are in agreement, and I think explaining it out is at least, helpful in a general sense for the topic. I didn’t explain it out because I thought you specifically didn’t understand, so I hope you don’t think I was talking down to you in any way.

Yes, we don’t know anything except that the OP has 6800 dual pivot brakes. Common sense assumption though should follow that: the OP has ultegra cables/housings and pads. But we don’t know if they need to be replaced. I also agree that’s an easier way to start. Where I think we diverge is in making an assumption on the level of modulation the OP is seeking. This is why I specifically stated that new cables can restore lost modulation but can’t get you more modulation than the design allows. So it seems that you and others are working on the idea that he’s lost modulation, and I’m working on the assumption that the OP wants more modulation than what his dual pivot brakes can give. I work on this because he compares his 6800’s to other brakes (campagnolo chorus) and never mentioned that his 6800s have less modulation than before a previous point. Until we know which assumption is more accurate or factual, both sides of advice have merit. We’re just on opposite sides here.
It's all good. I'm more concerned with clarity than I am with agreement.

We can't agree if we don't understand each other. I want to understand you clearly first and and asking questions is the first step. "What do you mean?" "I don't understand. Can you explain that?" and so forth. Too many people are quick to fire off, "No, you are wrong..." posts.

It's nice to talk things through. It means we can be friends even if we don't agree.


-Tim-
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Old 12-10-18, 11:01 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by aclinjury
You're correct about the difference in pull ratio on single pivot vs dual pivot brakes. However, your discussion of modulation (as it relates to the human hand) is not quite complete. That's because modulation at the hands also involve muscle memory from the hand, and the only solution for improved modulation here is thru practice necessary for muscle memory. Users will need to learn to brake hard when the speed is high and then easy off on the clamp force as speed is reduced. That's how a dual pivot brake should be modulated. And thru enough practice, the muscle memory will come. Single pivot is great if the speed you're operating at is in the range of "slow to medium" and you require finer-grain stopping power. When when the speed is over 30 mph or you're on a dowhill, the single pivot become difficult to modulate because at higher speed you're now forced to "grab a handful of brake with 4 fingers" and the human hand muscle then become less sensitive to brake feel (thus you're getting less modulation feeling at higher speed). So, to conclude, it's a trade off between single vs dual pivot. Single pivot gives great modulation at low-medium speed, while dual pivot give better modulation at medium and more importantly at higher speed. Me, I'd the dual pivot for high speed modulation and then train my hand muscle for low speed modulation.
i don’t argue this ability, but I disagree that this should even be a consideration in the basic discussion of modulation for a multitude of reasons that can’t be accounted for in regards to the OPs abilities. Campagnolo, as I’ve twice mentioned, addressed this by offering brakesets with single rear and dual front calipers. Honing your braking skills, while worthwhile, doesn’t change or arguably, overcome the basic fact that a dual pivot cam design literally sacrifices modulation for power. It’s part of the design. A 1:1 ratio is proportional. Put simply, it will respond directly to your pull, proportionally. When you change that ratio, you eliminate direct proportionality. That directly translates to less or indirect modulation. I don’t believe you can totally overcome this by muscle memory. The brakes ability to modulate is directly related to the ratio. If you believe you can achieve better modulation by muscle memory, from a mechanics consideration that is technically possible, but probably not likely achievable by most. And at best, what you’re doing is finessing the brakes design. So in fairness, you’re asking the op to try and overcome the literal mechanical design of his brakes and I can’t agree that’s a smart choice to answer the OPs desire. It’s a choice, it’s doable, but will it give the level of fine modulation the OP likely wants?

It seems to me to be a simple case. The same case for which it is why we have single and dual pivot brakes. Unless you can afford a set of eeBrakes, you need to choose wether you want more stopping power or more modulation. And in that you can choose a single pivot and attempt to stiffen it, increase spring tension or other ways to increase clamping force. Or you choose a dual pivot for its stopping power and try to finesse an indirect modulation, non proportional cable pull setup. Or do what I did and copy campagnolo.

Last edited by seamuis; 12-10-18 at 11:07 AM.
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Old 12-10-18, 11:02 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by aclinjury
Ultegra 6800 brakes on aluminum rims are awesome, assuming every thing is working as is. Not too many people will complain about this. It sounds to me you just need some practice on how to operate the brakes so you can develop hand muscle memory.

The other thing is, how do you set your brake pad clearance. For good modulation, the pads should be as far from the rim as possible such that when you pull the brake lever fully, it should be pretty close to the handlebar. That is to say, when lever is fully pulled in, your fingers should be as close to the bar as possible without the lever actually touching the bar. At this position, the muscle in the fingers can fine tune its own power more easily than if the fingers were farther away from the bar. That's just how most human fingers work. So check your setup.
this is a good point about pad placement, as this directly effects a brakes mechanical advantage.
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