1X Drive system
02-23-19, 01:10 PM
#1
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1X Drive system
So I am just starting to do a bike build. Frame arrives on Tuesday supposedly. I am still working out details but I am seriously considering doing a 1X drive train. This bike will be only used at home area, wont travel with it and I live in a pretty flat area for the most part.
Question: Is anyone here running a 1X on the road bike and how do they really like it? What system are they using? I am thinking a 1 by 11 with an 11-30 cassette and a 48t on the front. Not sure if this is obtainable but just thinking about it. Nothing keeping me from running a traditional 11 speed but I have a bike with 105 on it and its good just thinking outside the box I guess.
thanks
Question: Is anyone here running a 1X on the road bike and how do they really like it? What system are they using? I am thinking a 1 by 11 with an 11-30 cassette and a 48t on the front. Not sure if this is obtainable but just thinking about it. Nothing keeping me from running a traditional 11 speed but I have a bike with 105 on it and its good just thinking outside the box I guess.
thanks
02-23-19, 01:19 PM
#2
Interocitor Command
Do it! 
There's no need for all of that gearing in a flat part of the country. None whatsoever.
I've converted 3 of my five bikes (all originally triples) to 1x. I live in Indianapolis, which makes pancakes seem mountainous. All of my bikes have a 9-speed cassette in back, which I've done purposely for interchangeability of parts. On two of the bikes I have a 42t front chainring and on the third there is a 44t chainring. The rear cassettes are either 14t-25t or 13t - 23t. I absolutely love it.
There's no need for all of that gearing in a flat part of the country. None whatsoever. I've converted 3 of my five bikes (all originally triples) to 1x. I live in Indianapolis, which makes pancakes seem mountainous. All of my bikes have a 9-speed cassette in back, which I've done purposely for interchangeability of parts. On two of the bikes I have a 42t front chainring and on the third there is a 44t chainring. The rear cassettes are either 14t-25t or 13t - 23t. I absolutely love it.
02-23-19, 01:20 PM
#3
Senior Member
I have SRAM Apex 1x on my all rounder and love it. It has a 42t chain ring and a 11-42 cassette (if I recall correctly) and I love it. It is much easier to maintain without a front derailleur but the gaps between gears is a little greater than my 105 setup so if that doesn’t bother you, you should be alright. I actually like my SRAM shifters a little more than the Shimano shifters but that’s all down to personal preference.
If you already have a group set I’m not sure it would be worth buying a new group set just to go 1x but if you still need to buy everything I would give the Apex 1x a try. It’s their entry level group set but I’ve found it to be very good, shifts smooth and very few indexing issues so far.
If you already have a group set I’m not sure it would be worth buying a new group set just to go 1x but if you still need to buy everything I would give the Apex 1x a try. It’s their entry level group set but I’ve found it to be very good, shifts smooth and very few indexing issues so far.
02-23-19, 01:32 PM
#4
Interocitor Command
If you already have a group set I’m not sure it would be worth buying a new group set just to go 1x but if you still need to buy everything I would give the Apex 1x a try. It’s their entry level group set but I’ve found it to be very good, shifts smooth and very few indexing issues so far.
02-23-19, 01:42 PM
#5
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1x will only make complete since if you can get the range of gear ratios you need to handle the conditions you ride in the manner you like to ride. If you don't need any of the gear ratios you won't have, then who can truly say you are wrong for going 1x.
02-23-19, 02:02 PM
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I have SRAM Apex 1x on my all rounder and love it. It has a 42t chain ring and a 11-42 cassette (if I recall correctly) and I love it. It is much easier to maintain without a front derailleur but the gaps between gears is a little greater than my 105 setup so if that doesn’t bother you, you should be alright. I actually like my SRAM shifters a little more than the Shimano shifters but that’s all down to personal preference.
If you already have a group set I’m not sure it would be worth buying a new group set just to go 1x but if you still need to buy everything I would give the Apex 1x a try. It’s their entry level group set but I’ve found it to be very good, shifts smooth and very few indexing issues so far.
If you already have a group set I’m not sure it would be worth buying a new group set just to go 1x but if you still need to buy everything I would give the Apex 1x a try. It’s their entry level group set but I’ve found it to be very good, shifts smooth and very few indexing issues so far.
02-23-19, 02:05 PM
#7
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Yep, on my 105 now, I never use the little ring. I run 50 on the front and 11-30 on the rear so that is why I am really considering it.
02-23-19, 02:19 PM
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I'm running a Sram Force 1 44 with SRAM XG-1175, (10-42) 11S cassette on my flat bar roadbike/hybrid (Canyon RoadLite CF 9.0 LTD). Love it
02-23-19, 02:32 PM
#9
Full Member
I have 1x on my mountain bike (SRAM Eagle) and on my gravel/all roads biek (SRAM Rival 1). the rest of my bikes are 2x, or 3x on my Surly Cross check which I sometime ride loaded up with paniers.
I agree with comments that if you get the range you need 1x is enough. The other consideration is how important a constant cadence is to you. A 1x system will have bigger jumps between gears due to the wider range cassettes. The 2x system cassette will have a narrower range and therefore have smaller steps. I like the 1x on my mountain bike and on my gravel/all round bike as I am usually in hilly areas where quick jumps or dumps of gears are required. However, when riding my gravel/all round bike on pavement with a group I sometimes miss an in between gear which would allow small changes in gearing without a big change in cadence.
Also note that a 1x is great for the simplicity of not having a front derailleur, but usually is not a weight saver as the wide range 1x cassettes are heavier than the 2x cassettes.
I agree with comments that if you get the range you need 1x is enough. The other consideration is how important a constant cadence is to you. A 1x system will have bigger jumps between gears due to the wider range cassettes. The 2x system cassette will have a narrower range and therefore have smaller steps. I like the 1x on my mountain bike and on my gravel/all round bike as I am usually in hilly areas where quick jumps or dumps of gears are required. However, when riding my gravel/all round bike on pavement with a group I sometimes miss an in between gear which would allow small changes in gearing without a big change in cadence.
Also note that a 1x is great for the simplicity of not having a front derailleur, but usually is not a weight saver as the wide range 1x cassettes are heavier than the 2x cassettes.
02-23-19, 02:32 PM
#10
Senior Member
As someone else already mentions, if you don’t have the hills to contend with, 1x is perfect. I’d say give it a shot since you already have a 105er to balance the experience.
02-23-19, 02:52 PM
#11
Interocitor Command
Just wanted to add that my rear cassettes are NOT wide range. They're 9-speed as such: 13t, 14t, 15t, 16t, 17t, 18t, 19t, 21t, 23t.
The reason I wanted to point this out is some assumptions have been made about wide range cassettes. However, they are absolutely not necessary in the flatland.
The reason I wanted to point this out is some assumptions have been made about wide range cassettes. However, they are absolutely not necessary in the flatland.
02-23-19, 04:16 PM
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Just wanted to add that my rear cassettes are NOT wide range. They're 9-speed as such: 13t, 14t, 15t, 16t, 17t, 18t, 19t, 21t, 23t.
The reason I wanted to point this out is some assumptions have been made about wide range cassettes. However, they are absolutely not necessary in the flatland.
The reason I wanted to point this out is some assumptions have been made about wide range cassettes. However, they are absolutely not necessary in the flatland.
I am seriously tempted to bodge it with used 105 parts off ebay. just not use the front mech......
02-23-19, 06:48 PM
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My Raleigh Roper is a 1x9 and I've been happy with it for over 4 years. 42 front with a 12-26 rear. I commute and do some group road rides and never longed for another gear. I have pedaled the 42-12 up to 37 mph.
I have some hills on my routes, even a few that are steep, but nothing overly long. I can power up and spin down 'em on my fixed gear bikes, why in the world would I need or want 2 pesky chainrings on a geared freewheel bike?
Latest bike came with a 34-50 compact double, and a 12-25 cassette. I swapped the 34 for a 42 so I wouldn't have to bother shifting the front anymore. I'm planning to go with a 14-25 rear and 46 Wolftooth front ring and ditch all the extra parts. A BUNCH of one tooth shifts all on one shifter. Yay!
I have some hills on my routes, even a few that are steep, but nothing overly long. I can power up and spin down 'em on my fixed gear bikes, why in the world would I need or want 2 pesky chainrings on a geared freewheel bike?
Latest bike came with a 34-50 compact double, and a 12-25 cassette. I swapped the 34 for a 42 so I wouldn't have to bother shifting the front anymore. I'm planning to go with a 14-25 rear and 46 Wolftooth front ring and ditch all the extra parts. A BUNCH of one tooth shifts all on one shifter. Yay!
Last edited by AlmostTrick; 02-24-19 at 04:16 PM. Reason: Oops, 34-50 not 36
02-23-19, 07:04 PM
#15
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NICE! I am liking this idea more and more. SRAM is looking really nice to me!!!
02-23-19, 07:47 PM
#16
Senior Member
I am a recent convert to triples. Shifting decisions are dead simple.
90% of the time I am the middle ring. During sustained steep climbs, I am in the granny ring. Long descents: the big ring.
The triple gives a very wide range of gears (9 speed cassette) without the big gaps between the cassette cogs. Front shifting is fast and precise.
Why do we need 1 x systems? Because it provides manufacturers a (weak) justification for adding (yet another) cassette cog. Why do we need more than 9 cassette cogs? Because we need the gear range because we now only have one chaining.
If this seems like an absurd circular justification, well, then you get it...
90% of the time I am the middle ring. During sustained steep climbs, I am in the granny ring. Long descents: the big ring.
The triple gives a very wide range of gears (9 speed cassette) without the big gaps between the cassette cogs. Front shifting is fast and precise.
Why do we need 1 x systems? Because it provides manufacturers a (weak) justification for adding (yet another) cassette cog. Why do we need more than 9 cassette cogs? Because we need the gear range because we now only have one chaining.
If this seems like an absurd circular justification, well, then you get it...
02-23-19, 08:38 PM
#17
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I am a recent convert to triples. Shifting decisions are dead simple.
90% of the time I am the middle ring. During sustained steep climbs, I am in the granny ring. Long descents: the big ring.
The triple gives a very wide range of gears (9 speed cassette) without the big gaps between the cassette cogs. Front shifting is fast and precise.
Why do we need 1 x systems? Because it provides manufacturers a (weak) justification for adding (yet another) cassette cog. Why do we need more than 9 cassette cogs? Because we need the gear range because we now only have one chaining.
If this seems like an absurd circular justification, well, then you get it...
90% of the time I am the middle ring. During sustained steep climbs, I am in the granny ring. Long descents: the big ring.
The triple gives a very wide range of gears (9 speed cassette) without the big gaps between the cassette cogs. Front shifting is fast and precise.
Why do we need 1 x systems? Because it provides manufacturers a (weak) justification for adding (yet another) cassette cog. Why do we need more than 9 cassette cogs? Because we need the gear range because we now only have one chaining.
If this seems like an absurd circular justification, well, then you get it...
02-24-19, 10:21 AM
#19
Banned
1 by 14...IGH , here.. the engineers eliminated the overlap / redundant ratios of a triple but kept the range width and lined them up in a row..
02-24-19, 11:20 AM
#20
Non omnino gravis
While I've nothing against Rohloffs personally, I would be remiss if I were not to point out that my entire SRAM Rival 1 drivetrain, including hydraulic dropbar levers, cost less than a Rohloff Speedhub. Also including switching to an xD driver. Still less. Jussayin.
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02-24-19, 11:26 AM
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I have Sram Rival CX1 on my Cannondale SuperX. I have it with a 40T and a 11-32. this is my winter/foul weather bike. I generally ride it on shorter (20-30 mile) rides.
I love it, it fits my needs.
My other road bike is a Trek Emonda SLR with Sram eTap and the 1x is not a problem.
I went with the Rival CX1 because of the much lower cost to replace parts compared to eTap.
I love it, it fits my needs.
My other road bike is a Trek Emonda SLR with Sram eTap and the 1x is not a problem.
I went with the Rival CX1 because of the much lower cost to replace parts compared to eTap.
02-24-19, 11:26 AM
#22
Banned
Whats the 1 replacement cog * vs whole 1 by cassettes with your 42t + low gear cost over 10 years..
* I can flip it over, and double its wear life...
...
* I can flip it over, and double its wear life...
...
Last edited by fietsbob; 02-24-19 at 11:30 AM.
02-24-19, 11:33 AM
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I recently did a mtb/gravel conversion and made it 1x7 for simplicity. Everything now runs off of one friction thumb shifter.
Swapped out the middle chainring for a 42T and ground down the large one to make a bash guard. Kept the granny chainring as a manual bailout if I ever need it.
I had swapped out the original 7 speed cassette for a Sunrace CSM40 11/34T. Yesterday I ordered a 8 speed CSM680 11/40T (already have the body to convert the hub). The whole conversion from 3x7 to 1x8 will have cost me $65.
Swapped out the middle chainring for a 42T and ground down the large one to make a bash guard. Kept the granny chainring as a manual bailout if I ever need it.
I had swapped out the original 7 speed cassette for a Sunrace CSM40 11/34T. Yesterday I ordered a 8 speed CSM680 11/40T (already have the body to convert the hub). The whole conversion from 3x7 to 1x8 will have cost me $65.
02-24-19, 04:12 PM
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Contrary to what manufactures would have the cycling public believe, 1X systems are nothing new. They predated 2 and 3X systems.
One certainly doesn't need to spend big bucks to obtain a workable system. I've converted two bikes over, and they both work well. Soon I will be converting the new ($350, haha!) road bike above. It too will look and perform well. It's all about running the gear inch numbers, and knowing what you need.
Sweet setup you have there, HF. I'm especially impressed with how well your bash guard turned out. Well done!
One certainly doesn't need to spend big bucks to obtain a workable system. I've converted two bikes over, and they both work well. Soon I will be converting the new ($350, haha!) road bike above. It too will look and perform well. It's all about running the gear inch numbers, and knowing what you need.
I recently did a mtb/gravel conversion and made it 1x7 for simplicity. Everything now runs off of one friction thumb shifter.
Swapped out the middle chainring for a 42T and ground down the large one to make a bash guard. Kept the granny chainring as a manual bailout if I ever need it.
I had swapped out the original 7 speed cassette for a Sunrace CSM40 11/34T. Yesterday I ordered a 8 speed CSM680 11/40T (already have the body to convert the hub). The whole conversion from 3x7 to 1x8 will have cost me $65.
Swapped out the middle chainring for a 42T and ground down the large one to make a bash guard. Kept the granny chainring as a manual bailout if I ever need it.
I had swapped out the original 7 speed cassette for a Sunrace CSM40 11/34T. Yesterday I ordered a 8 speed CSM680 11/40T (already have the body to convert the hub). The whole conversion from 3x7 to 1x8 will have cost me $65.