making my own bike chain wax lube
#26
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Tinker if you must, all for tinkering, but I really don't get all the the threads in various forums about this and other lube related. ideas.
the actual cost of buying lubes is so cheap, that unless you are doing hundreds of bikes the cost is negligible
Also if if you are doing treatments that require taking your chain off, include the cost of quick links.....as most 11 speed are not resusable (per manufacturer)
form me it is
Rock and Roll Gold for chains
Phils waterproof grease for bearings
rock and roll red devil grease for threads
Phils tenacious oil for touching up freewheels
Triflow for everything else
the actual cost of buying lubes is so cheap, that unless you are doing hundreds of bikes the cost is negligible
Also if if you are doing treatments that require taking your chain off, include the cost of quick links.....as most 11 speed are not resusable (per manufacturer)
form me it is
Rock and Roll Gold for chains
Phils waterproof grease for bearings
rock and roll red devil grease for threads
Phils tenacious oil for touching up freewheels
Triflow for everything else
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Try some Boeshield T-9 instead of making it from scratch. It's paraffin in solvent. Developed by an aerospace company that had plenty of money and expertise to throw into making an effective lube/surface protection material.
Doesn't cost much. Low odor. Work well on chains, derailleurs, wicks quickly down oxidized cables if there isn't time for an overhaul and cable/housing replacement. Leaves very little residue. Chains clean up quickly and easily. I use it to touch up chains between paraffin dips.
Only downside is it doesn't last long per application. Takes about one application per week if I'm riding 3 or more times a week. Pretty much the same as most dry or paraffin in solvent type lubes, according to most user reports.
In comparison Park CL-1 usually lasts all winter on my hybrid. But CL-1, like most wet lubes, attracts a lot of black gunky debris that can't be easily cleaned just wiping the chain. The chain with Boeshield T-9 wipes cleanly pretty easily. Not as clean as dry paraffin, but not bad either.
Doesn't cost much. Low odor. Work well on chains, derailleurs, wicks quickly down oxidized cables if there isn't time for an overhaul and cable/housing replacement. Leaves very little residue. Chains clean up quickly and easily. I use it to touch up chains between paraffin dips.
Only downside is it doesn't last long per application. Takes about one application per week if I'm riding 3 or more times a week. Pretty much the same as most dry or paraffin in solvent type lubes, according to most user reports.
In comparison Park CL-1 usually lasts all winter on my hybrid. But CL-1, like most wet lubes, attracts a lot of black gunky debris that can't be easily cleaned just wiping the chain. The chain with Boeshield T-9 wipes cleanly pretty easily. Not as clean as dry paraffin, but not bad either.
I have tried most of the lubes over the years and have settled on Boeshield. Like you said doesn't last that long but that is relative. About every third ride I spritz the chain then run it through a rag, easy peasy. Isn't a dirt magnet like some of the others, stays pretty clean. I knew it was developed by an aerospace company but didn't know it was paraffin in a solvent. That explains why it is not a dirt magnet
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To bring this thread even more OT.....
I've been having pretty good luck with White Lightning Clean Ride of late. I did a 30 mile, very wet gravel ride on Sunday and made it back with no chirping birds at all. Had excellent shifting the entire ride. Short of an outright downpour, this was a pretty good torture test.
I apply quite liberally the night before.
I've been having pretty good luck with White Lightning Clean Ride of late. I did a 30 mile, very wet gravel ride on Sunday and made it back with no chirping birds at all. Had excellent shifting the entire ride. Short of an outright downpour, this was a pretty good torture test.
I apply quite liberally the night before.
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Tinker if you must, all for tinkering, but I really don't get all the the threads in various forums about this and other lube related. ideas.
the actual cost of buying lubes is so cheap, that unless you are doing hundreds of bikes the cost is negligible
Also if if you are doing treatments that require taking your chain off, include the cost of quick links.....as most 11 speed are not resusable (per manufacturer)
form me it is
Rock and Roll Gold for chains
Phils waterproof grease for bearings
rock and roll red devil grease for threads
Phils tenacious oil for touching up freewheels
Triflow for everything else
the actual cost of buying lubes is so cheap, that unless you are doing hundreds of bikes the cost is negligible
Also if if you are doing treatments that require taking your chain off, include the cost of quick links.....as most 11 speed are not resusable (per manufacturer)
form me it is
Rock and Roll Gold for chains
Phils waterproof grease for bearings
rock and roll red devil grease for threads
Phils tenacious oil for touching up freewheels
Triflow for everything else
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LMAO, this made me spit my coffee.
I do agree though, this is a bunch of fuss. I wax my chains. I simply buy the speed wax stuff and I am good. $22 a bag lasts me a long time and my results are very good. No use messing with this process.....If I do get a bit low on product I will put in a chunk of candle was until the new supply arrives. Simple, effective, done.
I do agree though, this is a bunch of fuss. I wax my chains. I simply buy the speed wax stuff and I am good. $22 a bag lasts me a long time and my results are very good. No use messing with this process.....If I do get a bit low on product I will put in a chunk of candle was until the new supply arrives. Simple, effective, done.
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You have to keep in mind that this place is rife with people who will spend hours searching the Internets to save $0.50 on things like inner tubes and buy multi-lifetime supplies of CO2 cartridges because the unit cost is much lower than that you can get from a LBS.
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The last 4oz bottle of Squirt that I got was from Amazon and I paid right at $12.00 and change. That was back in October. As of today, I'm not quite half way through that bottle. $12.00 vs buying the wax and other ingredients, plus the time it takes to wax the chain and clean up just doesn't make sense to me. And lets not forget the cost of a cheap crockpot since attempting to use my wife's to wax a chain would be very detrimental to my health.
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#37
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My home brew wax lube formula is 1 ounce by weight of paraffin, to 6-7 ounces of naptha, plus about 3% heavy oil, like auto gear lube. I've had a bottle of Royal Purple gear lube that I've been using for many years. It makes a good drilling and tapping lube in the workshop. The cheapest naptha that I've found is Crown brand camp stove fuel for about $8.50 a gallon at Walmart. Naptha will evaporate quickly and there is no lingering odor.
Paraffin can be dissolved in naptha, but it's a slow process without some heat. You can melt the paraffin and pour it into the naptha.
Xylene is not needed. Paraffin oil, also not needed. 91% isoproplyl alcohol is 9% water and won't dissolve paraffin.
Paraffin can be dissolved in naptha, but it's a slow process without some heat. You can melt the paraffin and pour it into the naptha.
Xylene is not needed. Paraffin oil, also not needed. 91% isoproplyl alcohol is 9% water and won't dissolve paraffin.
Last edited by DaveSSS; 03-04-19 at 11:43 AM.
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Mobil 1 oil. Thats unfair. We are trying to make our own concoctions and here you go with an automotive lubricant that is formulated to lube in much more severe applications like timing chains in vehicles. How could you be so insensitive ?
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Thinking about motor oil and timing chains, etc got me to thinking about chain saw chain oil. Has anyone tried it on bike chains ? Its obviously designed for chains.
#44
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I've read reports of people using every type of oil you can imagine, like chain saw oil, transmission fluid and motor oil. Any of them will work, but you still have a wet dirty drivetrain.
I used the Royal purple gear lube thinned substantially with mineral spirits for many years, and it worked well, but it required a lot of cleaning.
I've been using my home brew dry wax lube for a couple of thousand miles and it's amazing how clean the drivetrain remains. Unlike those who use melted wax on their chains, I reapply the lube frequently, since it won't build-up and dirty the sprockets and chain. Occasional removal of the chain for a good cleaning to remove grit is still a good idea.
I used the Royal purple gear lube thinned substantially with mineral spirits for many years, and it worked well, but it required a lot of cleaning.
I've been using my home brew dry wax lube for a couple of thousand miles and it's amazing how clean the drivetrain remains. Unlike those who use melted wax on their chains, I reapply the lube frequently, since it won't build-up and dirty the sprockets and chain. Occasional removal of the chain for a good cleaning to remove grit is still a good idea.
#45
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He has another video where he dunks the hot chain in cold water.
Well if the melted chain thing lasts 400 km, it will be worth it. Currently, I am using the Dupont aerosol spray can. Gets grimy after a couple of rides.
#46
Non omnino gravis
I have a crockpot filled with 8oz of paraffin and 1 fl.oz of Slick50 High Mileage Engine Treatment. I dip my chains once a month, so each hot wax lasts ~500 miles. After 500 miles, I can run the chain through my hands and not get dirty.
Miles using hot wax... around 18,000, I think? If you ride where it rains a whole lot, hot wax is probably not for you. I use Squirt during winter months to "touch up" the chain between dips (say after a particularly wet/muddy day.) I have been unable to recreate a Squirt replacement via DIY. I bought my 4oz bottle in May of 2017 and it's still not empty-- being used for touch up on 4 bikes, 5 chains. Hot wax is good, Squirt is good, the two in conjunction are near perfect.
Miles using hot wax... around 18,000, I think? If you ride where it rains a whole lot, hot wax is probably not for you. I use Squirt during winter months to "touch up" the chain between dips (say after a particularly wet/muddy day.) I have been unable to recreate a Squirt replacement via DIY. I bought my 4oz bottle in May of 2017 and it's still not empty-- being used for touch up on 4 bikes, 5 chains. Hot wax is good, Squirt is good, the two in conjunction are near perfect.
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I understand what you guys say about the wax keeping the external surface of the chain cleaner but I'm not sure that it lubricates. I like the cleaner aspect however, if there is a trade off of clean chain / lubed chain I think I lean toward the clean chain. You guys are very convincing, I think I will give the wax a try.
#48
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Wattsup's Original, biodegradable chain lube:
1. Completely strip chain with mineral spirits. Allow to dry overnight.
2. Set chain in a medium-sized skillet. Brush on extra-virgin olive oil. Yes, olive oil.
3. Heat on low, 3 minutes, being sure not to allow oil to smoke. The goal here is to simply warm the chain and oil. Remove from heat.
4. Promptly sprinkle a *very* light coating of powdered sugar on your chain....less is better. Heat again on medium/high for 1 minute or until light brown sheen appears on chain. This is the caramelization phase.
5. Remove from heat, allow to cool, reinstall chain.
6. Enjoy an all-natural, food grade, "dry" lube that won't collect dirt and that is very water resistant!
1. Completely strip chain with mineral spirits. Allow to dry overnight.
2. Set chain in a medium-sized skillet. Brush on extra-virgin olive oil. Yes, olive oil.
3. Heat on low, 3 minutes, being sure not to allow oil to smoke. The goal here is to simply warm the chain and oil. Remove from heat.
4. Promptly sprinkle a *very* light coating of powdered sugar on your chain....less is better. Heat again on medium/high for 1 minute or until light brown sheen appears on chain. This is the caramelization phase.
5. Remove from heat, allow to cool, reinstall chain.
6. Enjoy an all-natural, food grade, "dry" lube that won't collect dirt and that is very water resistant!
#49
Interocitor Command
My "favorite" clean lube is Boeshield, but unless one buys a freakin' gallon of the stuff it ain't no $1.00 per ounce. More like $2.50 per ounce, making it a little too spendy. If I had 3 other friends who were into cycling and could have talked them into splitting a gallon 4-ways, I would have done it.
I'm curious how your wax homebrew turns out. Just don't blow up your house trying to make it.
ADDENDUM: I haven't tried Finish Line Dry, but a 32 ounce bottle is $29.00 before taxes with free shipping. So that's only $1-ish per ounce for practically a lifetime supply with no muss and no fuss.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001C65JTI...ter_B00M77CIXQ
Last edited by Doctor Morbius; 03-02-19 at 10:46 PM.
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Last Summer I bought a quart of the stuff for $30 on Amazon (it's higher than that now). With Indiana state sales tax it came to just over $32, so that's only $1.00 per ounce. At $1 per ounce I'll pony up the cash.
My "favorite" clean lube is Boeshield, but unless one buys a freakin' gallon of the stuff it ain't no $1.00 per ounce. More like $2.50 per ounce, making it a little too spendy. If I had 3 other friends who were into cycling and could have talked them into splitting a gallon 4-ways, I would have done it.
I'm curious how your wax homebrew turns out. Just don't blow up your house trying to make it.
ADDENDUM: I haven't tried Finish Line Dry, but a 32 ounce bottle is $29.00 before taxes with free shipping. So that's only $1-ish per ounce for practically a lifetime supply with no muss and no fuss.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001C65JTI...ter_B00M77CIXQ
My "favorite" clean lube is Boeshield, but unless one buys a freakin' gallon of the stuff it ain't no $1.00 per ounce. More like $2.50 per ounce, making it a little too spendy. If I had 3 other friends who were into cycling and could have talked them into splitting a gallon 4-ways, I would have done it.
I'm curious how your wax homebrew turns out. Just don't blow up your house trying to make it.
ADDENDUM: I haven't tried Finish Line Dry, but a 32 ounce bottle is $29.00 before taxes with free shipping. So that's only $1-ish per ounce for practically a lifetime supply with no muss and no fuss.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001C65JTI...ter_B00M77CIXQ