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Good Chain Lube??? Mines WD40. :P

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Good Chain Lube??? Mines WD40. :P

Old 05-13-19, 10:12 PM
  #176  
KLiNCK
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Originally Posted by taz777 View Post
Just out of interest, does anyone ride their bikes with NO lube at all applied to the chain?

You don't need a bell either! Win-win!!
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Old 05-15-19, 07:13 PM
  #177  
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Originally Posted by mtb_addict View Post
The best way to keep dirt off is to have a fully enclosed chain case...like the Dutch town bikes in cities all over Neaderlands.
But these only work on bikes with IGH.

Having exposed chain is always going to be a losing battle, no matter what high tech lube you use.

SOmeone should invent a full chain case for derailleured bicycles.

How about Belt drive ?
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Old 05-15-19, 08:54 PM
  #178  
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Originally Posted by Rajflyboy View Post
How about Belt drive ?
A belt drive actually takes more watts to operate, https://www.bikeradar.com/news/chain...ich-is-faster/

Plus a belt drive weighs a lot more and thus combined with the wattage loss and the lack of gears it's impractical for a traditional road bike.
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Old 05-17-19, 07:50 AM
  #179  
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WD-40 is great stuff. I use it on chain, cables, derailleurs, brakes. And on frame tubes it really shines up the paint.
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Old 05-17-19, 06:50 PM
  #180  
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I use WD40 to help degrease parts on my bike and old British sports car. It does a good job of breaking down grease and oil. And, it's easier to get it all off once the degreasing job is done.

Of course it's a good lubricant. After all it's "water displacement formula number 40" and was designed to prevent corrosion. Preventing corrosion and lubricating are the same thing, right?
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Old 05-17-19, 06:56 PM
  #181  
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Originally Posted by drlogik View Post
Preventing corrosion and lubricating are the same thing, right?
Painting, powder-coating, electroplating, and anodizing, all prevent corrosion.
But I never heard anyone claim they are lubricants.
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Old 05-17-19, 07:45 PM
  #182  
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Painting, powder-coating, electroplating, and anodizing, all prevent corrosion.
But I never heard anyone claim they are lubricants.
Hopefully y'all read my post as some good old Southern-style sarcasm....
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Old 05-18-19, 12:29 PM
  #183  
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No lube required for belt drive
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Old 05-19-19, 02:08 PM
  #184  
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Originally Posted by Rajflyboy View Post
No lube required for belt drive
Chains are about 34% more efficient than belts; more money consumed by belt drive; cost about $500 more for a new bike with belt drive vs chain; replacing worn out parts on the belt system ranges 400 to 800 percent more over chain drives; can't customize your gear ratios according to your needs; not practical for touring; so I'll give all up all of those advantages that chains have for a cleaner no lube system...
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Old 05-20-19, 10:05 PM
  #185  
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Originally Posted by greatscott View Post
Chains are about 34% more efficient than belts; more money consumed by belt drive; cost about $500 more for a new bike with belt drive vs chain; replacing worn out parts on the belt system ranges 400 to 800 percent more over chain drives; can't customize your gear ratios according to your needs; not practical for touring; so I'll give all up all of those advantages that chains have for a cleaner no lube system...
Yes, but if you have the money for a Rohloff, or even better, a Pinion drive system, money is no object. And belts are quiet. I'm a retired engineer and I can't believe your efficiency numbers, I think that may be chains compared to V-BELTS which have significant friction losses (EDIT: They are comparing cogged belts to a fixed gear (cog) with chain, no derailleur); Cogged belts, especially narrow, Kevlar-core ones, are quite efficient, perhaps even superior to chains that have to run tight bends around small cogs and through the durailleur. Internal Gear Hubs have greater efficiency loss, on the order of 5-7% when not in the one direct-drive gear. The Pinion system may be better, but more expensive than my car, and requires a special-built frame. My only gripe about belts is that they require a frame with no chainstays or a break in them to be able to use a belt.

Last edited by Duragrouch; 05-20-19 at 10:10 PM.
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Old 05-21-19, 09:12 AM
  #186  
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Originally Posted by Duragrouch View Post
Yes, but if you have the money for a Rohloff, or even better, a Pinion drive system, money is no object. And belts are quiet. I'm a retired engineer and I can't believe your efficiency numbers, I think that may be chains compared to V-BELTS which have significant friction losses (EDIT: They are comparing cogged belts to a fixed gear (cog) with chain, no derailleur); Cogged belts, especially narrow, Kevlar-core ones, are quite efficient, perhaps even superior to chains that have to run tight bends around small cogs and through the durailleur. Internal Gear Hubs have greater efficiency loss, on the order of 5-7% when not in the one direct-drive gear. The Pinion system may be better, but more expensive than my car, and requires a special-built frame. My only gripe about belts is that they require a frame with no chainstays or a break in them to be able to use a belt.
Right. I was reading an article regarding a Gates Carbon Drive vs chain and thete was a cross over point where below which a chain is more efficient, above which a belt won. The results did have some variability with tension. Of course, this is different than a v-belt whose mode of operation is friction on an inclined plane.

As far as the Rolhoff, it does take a few percent of efficiency loss compared to a conventional chain/derailleur system. Noticably more loss in the lower ratios. 1st, 2nd, 3rd gear definitely feel like there is a bunch of things engaged inside combining for a "draggy" feel. They do get better as things break-in though. A couple of watts (like, under 10 at speed) is well worth the trade off for other considerations.
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Old 05-21-19, 09:30 AM
  #187  
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I only came here for the internet stranger arguments trying to tell the others they are dumber. Was not disappointed :
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Old 05-21-19, 09:55 AM
  #188  
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Originally Posted by base2 View Post
Right. I was reading an article regarding a Gates Carbon Drive vs chain and thete was a cross over point where below which a chain is more efficient, above which a belt won. The results did have some variability with tension. Of course, this is different than a v-belt whose mode of operation is friction on an inclined plane.

As far as the Rolhoff, it does take a few percent of efficiency loss compared to a conventional chain/derailleur system. Noticably more loss in the lower ratios. 1st, 2nd, 3rd gear definitely feel like there is a bunch of things engaged inside combining for a "draggy" feel. They do get better as things break-in though. A couple of watts (like, under 10 at speed) is well worth the trade off for other considerations.


Ouch. If you can feel it like that, it's more than a couple of watts.
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Old 05-21-19, 11:23 AM
  #189  
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Originally Posted by woodcraft View Post
Ouch. If you can feel it like that, it's more than a couple of watts.
Well, it might also have to do with rack, fenders, dynamo, chip seal, & being 30 pounds.

It's just the bottom of the range & I wouldn't call it "snappy" but a little "sponge" in relation to a chain...not that feel has much to do with actual efficiency. Cruising the world on a 15% grade at 3 or 4 mph gives a lot of time to fuss over minutia.

It is noticably better than when I got it 300 miles & a week & a half ago. When I was unloaded & held 30 mph in top gear @ 90rpm for about a half mile I wouldn't say hub efficiency even crossed my mind.
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Old 05-22-19, 11:30 AM
  #190  
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Originally Posted by FiftySix View Post
I've been using my old supply of Motul motorcycle chain lube. It's super tacky and doesn't sling off.

Are bicycle specific chain lubes tacky as well?
That is an excellent question. The ones I've used were not. WD-40 Bike line chain lube sprays on good, quick and convenient but not budget friendly. Bar and Chain Oil for chainsaws is tacky, and offers more thicker product for less money.
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Old 05-22-19, 11:45 AM
  #191  
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Originally Posted by greatscott View Post
Chains are about 34% more efficient than belts; more money consumed by belt drive; cost about $500 more for a new bike with belt drive vs chain; replacing worn out parts on the belt system ranges 400 to 800 percent more over chain drives; can't customize your gear ratios according to your needs; not practical for touring; so I'll give all up all of those advantages that chains have for a cleaner no lube system...
Great info
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Old 05-22-19, 11:47 AM
  #192  
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https://www.amazon.com/Finish-Line-B...23961909&psc=1

just buy this and be done with it

buy a bottle of the wet as well

you will be all set

its the best stuff available
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Old 05-22-19, 12:24 PM
  #193  
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Originally Posted by drlogik View Post
I use WD40 to help degrease parts on my bike and old British sports car. It does a good job of breaking down grease and oil. And, it's easier to get it all off once the degreasing job is done.

Of course it's a good lubricant. After all it's "water displacement formula number 40" and was designed to prevent corrosion. Preventing corrosion and lubricating are the same thing, right?
I use WD-40 as a solvent to clean the chain and other parts. I let it sit overnight to evaporate, then apply Tri Flow which I also let sit overnight. Seems to be working.
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Old 05-22-19, 07:55 PM
  #194  
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Originally Posted by Rajflyboy View Post
Great info
So you want more info because mine didn't work for you? What? all you people can't use google?

https://www.cantitoeroad.com/Chains-...ists_b_23.html

https://www.downtube.com/pages/belt-...ich-to-choose/

https://www.rodbikes.com/articles/gates-belt-drive.html

https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q...rformance-only
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Old 05-23-19, 01:43 AM
  #195  
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Originally Posted by FiftySix View Post
I've been using my old supply of Motul motorcycle chain lube. It's super tacky and doesn't sling off.

Are bicycle specific chain lubes tacky as well?
Originally Posted by beach_cycle View Post
That is an excellent question. The ones I've used were not. WD-40 Bike line chain lube sprays on good, quick and convenient but not budget friendly. Bar and Chain Oil for chainsaws is tacky, and offers more thicker product for less money.
If it's tacky and sticks to the chain I would have thought it also means it'll attract dirt and debris which will stay on the chain causing damage as opposed to getting thrown off as it rotates.

Isn't this the reason for having wet and dry lube .... dry is theoretically better as it doesn't allow dust etc to attach to it so easily and the chain stays cleaner BUT it gets washed off too easily when it's wet offering no lubrication and hence why the need for wet in the winter months??

That's not saying I have the definitive answer but just throwing what I've read elsewhere and seems logical into the pot for discussion.

I think Baby Oil would be best because it smells nicer than the others
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Old 05-23-19, 06:05 PM
  #196  
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I don't know where/how you guys ride, but I've never had to degrease or "clean" a chain in my life! Just wipe down with a clean rag after each ride and apply lube when needed. My chains have looked good enough to floss with! (granted I NEVER ride in mud, and avoid rainy rides at all costs).
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Old 05-23-19, 08:21 PM
  #197  
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Originally Posted by FiftySix View Post
I've been using my old supply of Motul motorcycle chain lube. It's super tacky and doesn't sling off.

Are bicycle specific chain lubes tacky as well?
Motorcycle chain lube is much heavier than bike lube. Not saying ti doesn't work, but I've seen studies that appear to prove that lube that heavy does steal wattage from your efforts.
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Old 05-23-19, 08:52 PM
  #198  
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Originally Posted by Dirt Farmer View Post
I don't know where/how you guys ride, but I've never had to degrease or "clean" a chain in my life! Just wipe down with a clean rag after each ride and apply lube when needed. My chains have looked good enough to floss with! (granted I NEVER ride in mud, and avoid rainy rides at all costs).
I donít know where/how you ride but Iíve never had to wipe my chain down after every ride in my life! I just clean my chain and re-lube it every few hundred miles.

-Matt
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Old 05-25-19, 02:12 PM
  #199  
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Originally Posted by smoore View Post
Motorcycle chain lube is much heavier than bike lube. Not saying ti doesn't work, but I've seen studies that appear to prove that lube that heavy does steal wattage from your efforts.
My bikes steal plenty of watts in other areas. Weights are 30 lbs and 40 lbs, so that's something to consider.

Also, a chain with tacky lube pulls off a sprocket easier than pulling a piece of transparent tape, so I'm not too worried.
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Old 05-25-19, 02:14 PM
  #200  
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Originally Posted by MattTheHat View Post
I don’t know where/how you ride but I’ve never had to wipe my chain down after every ride in my life! I just clean my chain and re-lube it every few hundred miles.

-Matt
He's the "Dirt Farmer"! Gotta be gettin' some of that dirt on his bike!
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