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Specialized Roubaix alternatives

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Specialized Roubaix alternatives

Old 06-02-19, 07:41 AM
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rugbyant
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Specialized Roubaix alternatives

Hi everyone,

currently have a 5 year old Giant Defy composite, with 10spd 105 and upgraded Mavic Kysrium wheels.

I mainly cycle road around Yorkshire, doing 150-200km per week. I mainly do triathlons, but am nowhere flexible (or good enough) for a TT. Last race was a Ĺ Ironman.

Although maybe not necessary, I am looking for a new bike (Iím sure itíll make me better :-) ). I started looking at Canyon Endurace and Cube, but stumbled on 2019 Spec Roubaix Comp - which I can get for £3k. All have same Di2 and disc brakes.

My dilemma is, 2020 Roubaix has come out and looks better and is more aero. I am sure I do not need more Aero, and it is £1300. LBS say the £1300 increase is well justified and worth the upgrade.

Looking for feedback on 2019 Roubaix vs Endurace vs Cube Agree SLT. As well as any comments.

thanks
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Old 06-02-19, 09:22 AM
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2019 Roubaix Comp Di2 is a great bicycle. BikeRadar has a video on it. It was their Road Bike of the Year 2017.

Last edited by rnothog; 06-02-19 at 09:25 AM.
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Old 06-03-19, 12:37 AM
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But is the 2020 much better? Or am I being sucked into a good marketing pitch?

bike do the year means itís a great bike and more than adequate for my next step is my brain thinking, my heart says - yes, maybe a divorce for getting a new expensive bike, but itís new and better.

Hoping someone can interject with the common sense (Iím lacking) to help me decide.
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Old 06-03-19, 01:26 AM
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Sometimes last year's bike is better than the new bike, diminishing value of the £ to and sometimes a downgrade in components. You'd have to look at the spec of both and compare. I'd never pay full price I must admit I'd always look for a end of season bargain.

If its a huge saving in money between the two and no real differences I'd definitely go for the cheaper option. Having the latest bike is not a feeling that lasts for long. If you really want the 2020 version why not wait until the 2021 version is announced and you can get it with a healthy discount. There aren't many retail sectors where you announce a product for one price but is almost always available with up to a 40% discount months later to make way for the new model. Obviously if you are loyal to your local bike shop then that makes it more difficult as you are reliant on what they discount by.

One good thing about Specialized is they are 49% owned by Merida so it is unlikely they will move production to Cambodia or even Bangladesh like so many other brands, it's going to be made in a Merida factory or at least the frame and forks are. So there will be consistency there. I think only low end Specializeds are not made by Merida. However there has been bikes that dropped in quality between years as they moved from Taiwan to mainland China, mainland China to Vietnam, Vietnam to Cambodia, Cambodia to Bangladesh, however that is mostly bottom of the range bikes. My point is often in the past where the £ had greater buying power and the brand/importer changed factories to save money the older model that was much cheaper was actually overall the better bike too. In fairness though Shimano's trickle down technology philosophy where their yearly updates on groupsets bring improvements to cheaper groupsets is one area where a newer bike can slightly improve on the older model but there are other components where the reverse can be true they have moved from a frame factory which has a very high quality experienced workforce to a newer factory in a different country with lower product quality to save money. I'm not so convinced with geometry improvements with the yearly updates that is something I feel more neutral about myself. Sometimes it seems geometry tweaks are more fashion/trend than anything else.
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Old 06-03-19, 03:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Bonzo Banana View Post
Sometimes last year's bike is better than the new bike, diminishing value of the £ to and sometimes a downgrade in components. You'd have to look at the spec of both and compare. I'd never pay full price I must admit I'd always look for a end of season bargain.

If its a huge saving in money between the two and no real differences I'd definitely go for the cheaper option. Having the latest bike is not a feeling that lasts for long. If you really want the 2020 version why not wait until the 2021 version is announced and you can get it with a healthy discount. There aren't many retail sectors where you announce a product for one price but is almost always available with up to a 40% discount months later to make way for the new model. Obviously if you are loyal to your local bike shop then that makes it more difficult as you are reliant on what they discount by.
Other than the seat post integration change, and slightly better cosmetics on the future shock - the groupset, wheel and tyres etc are identical. So £1300 extra gets me a slightly better frame, and better integration of the seat post and the future shock. As i write that, I think, there has got to be more to it - can a company really charge that much more for so little? Then as I write, I also think, the answer is simple. £1300 extra for minor changes, or £1300 for the latest and greatest until 9 months when 2021 is realised ;-)
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Old 06-03-19, 05:19 AM
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What is your goal?

Originally Posted by rugbyant View Post
...a 5 year old Giant Defy composite, with 10spd 105 and upgraded Mavic Kysrium wheels.

I mainly cycle road around Yorkshire, doing 150-200km per week. I mainly do triathlons, but am nowhere flexible (or good enough) for a TT. Last race was a Ĺ Ironman.

Although maybe not necessary, I am looking for a new bike (Iím sure itíll make me better :-) )
Do you really want to get better? Assuming that you've done everything to cut down on waste in your transitions (and ignoring the swim and run), have you evaluated whether (or how much) you can shave any time from your bike portion? What are you average speeds? This will dictate what kind of approach I'd recommend to get faster.

There should be nothing wrong with your defy. Can you get your position more aerodynamic? Is the fit set up for optimum power over the tri distance(s)?

Maybe a competent bike fit session with power monitoring? If you can adjust your position, that might help most.

Maybe a set of lighter aero wheels? Aero helmet?

You need to make these changes before you consider replacing the current bike. You'll simply repeat what you're doing now.
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Old 06-03-19, 05:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Phil_gretz View Post
Do you really want to get better? Assuming that you've done everything to cut down on waste in your transitions (and ignoring the swim and run), have you evaluated whether (or how much) you can shave any time from your bike portion? What are you average speeds?

You need to make these changes before you consider replacing the current bike. You'll simply repeat what you're doing now.
Damn... a man of logic. My wife will love you :-)

I agree with all of that. Average speed is around 28kph for the 90km distance. I would like to get to +35kph. I don't tend to ride in aero position, and did not go for tri bars added to bike - this is mainly due to not being comfortable in a tucked position (fitness and flexibility).

I did suffer with 10 spd rear not having enough to spin on the large climb, but it was only 1 climb I struggled with - rest of the ride I had enough with the 2 x 10spd. The last tri, I did end up with numbness in my left hand, and have not have a full bike fit, bit have had a bike measure.

I wanted to go for a new bike, because, I wanted to upgrade, have 11 spd, and have a shiny new toy. But, now the question should be, do I need to do it now. I guess get better on what I have and then move on.
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Old 06-03-19, 07:43 AM
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I ride a 2008 Roubaix, Iíve rented a 2018 Roubaix a couple of times and itís a wonderful bike, things have clearly evolved in 10 years. That said, I do a weekly training ride with a local tri group, the fast ones are not riding endurance bikes. If you really want to kick up your speed, get aero bars and get used to them. Or put the aero bars on your new Roubaix. 😀. I donít use them either, those who use them pass me.

For most of us we donít ďneedĒ a new bike, but we want one. If you ride a lot and you will enjoy a new bike, and you can afford it without derailing other financial objectives, then why not? Nothing wrong with spending a bit for enjoyment.

I suspect the large price difference is due to the older model being discounted, as well as a slightly higher price for the new model. A good opportunity to get a nice bike at an even nicer price. The only thing Iíve noticed with the rented Roubaix is my shoe occasionally rubs the drive side chainstay. Itís easy enough to avoid but on my own bike this doesnít happen at all. The rental is size 58 and Iím wearing size 47 shoes with SPD-SLs. So check that if you test ride.
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Old 06-05-19, 07:43 AM
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Originally Posted by rugbyant View Post
I don't tend to ride in aero position, and did not go for tri bars added to bike - this is mainly due to not being comfortable in a tucked position (fitness and flexibility).,.
Why not sign up for local yoga classes? Then add some physical training sessions to work on specific flexibility, wherever you need attention: ITB, glutes, hamstrings, hip flexors...

The yoga will also benefit core, which will give you better endurance for the tuck.

Originally Posted by rugbyant View Post
I did suffer with 10 spd rear not having enough to spin on the large climb, but it was only 1 climb I struggled with - rest of the ride I had enough with the 2 x 10spd...
Shimano has 11-36 now in 10 speed, so...

Originally Posted by rugbyant View Post
The last tri, I did end up with numbness in my left hand, and have not have a full bike fit...
This is where I'd pay attention. Your balance point may be off. Simple as that. Or..numbness can originate back at the spine/root and might be a symptom of muscle or bone impinging on the nerve anywhere along its way. Do you remind yousrelf to relax your upper back and shoulders during the ride? Do you grip too tightly? Do you change your hand positions regularly?

Maybe get a physical the****** trained in cycling to go over your fit on a trainer? You can solve this.
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Old 06-05-19, 07:58 AM
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Originally Posted by rugbyant View Post
Damn... a man of logic. My wife will love you :-)

I agree with all of that. Average speed is around 28kph for the 90km distance. I would like to get to +35kph. I don't tend to ride in aero position, and did not go for tri bars added to bike - this is mainly due to not being comfortable in a tucked position (fitness and flexibility).

I did suffer with 10 spd rear not having enough to spin on the large climb, but it was only 1 climb I struggled with - rest of the ride I had enough with the 2 x 10spd. The last tri, I did end up with numbness in my left hand, and have not have a full bike fit, bit have had a bike measure.

I wanted to go for a new bike, because, I wanted to upgrade, have 11 spd, and have a shiny new toy. But, now the question should be, do I need to do it now. I guess get better on what I have and then move on.
In 2014 at age 64 during my 2nd Ironman Florida in the 112 mile bike section the use of bolt on tri-bars on my Giant Propel allowed me to ride the distance non-stop. Just 2 weeks ago I rode a local 151 miles with the first 100 completed with only one stop around the 72 mile mark. That ride was on my 2018 Roubaix Expert mechanical with bolt on tri-bars.

Getting used to them was not an issue with me since at that time some 10-15 year's ago I had severe shoulder issues and needed the relaxed position for longer rides.
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