View Poll Results: Which Flat Bar Lever and Flat Mount brakes should I use?
Paul Canti Levers and TRP Spyre Brakes (and good cables and housing)




2
50.00%
Shimano Alfine Levers and Ultegra Discs




1
25.00%
Shimano Metrea Levers and Discs




0
0%
Shimano Alfine Levers and Hope RX4s




0
0%
Magura MT4/5 Lever and Campagnolo H11 Discs (for those who are different)




1
25.00%
Voters: 4. You may not vote on this poll
Which Brakes?
#1
Clark W. Griswold
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Which Brakes?
So I am building an gravel/adventure/touring/all-road/yada yada bike with the Koga Denham bar but I am unsure what I want to do for brakes so here is what I am thinking and maybe I could get a poll going to see which one makes most sense. The bars are essentially flat as are the disc brake mounts on the frame.
Thanks in advance for the help. For those curious it is a Sequoia Pro Module frame which will be set up 2x11 XT rear derailleur and Ultegra front derailleur, White Industries cranks and Microshift thumb shifters.
Thanks in advance for the help. For those curious it is a Sequoia Pro Module frame which will be set up 2x11 XT rear derailleur and Ultegra front derailleur, White Industries cranks and Microshift thumb shifters.
Last edited by veganbikes; 11-18-19 at 10:19 PM.
#2
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I vote TRP Spyre cable and silver Sturmey Archer levers with plastic inserts.
I have both with my Rohloff. Stops on a dime. The front has SA drum brake with 25,000 miles.
The levers are unbelievably comfortable and they don't seem to be eroding either. Used them all the last 3,900 mile tour and a bit more. They look better than anything else IMO. I switched the rivet to long pull. I bought 2 pairs at the time, I'm so glad. I have old chrome swept back 70d bars.
Black levers will lose the finish anyway, so forget that.
I have both with my Rohloff. Stops on a dime. The front has SA drum brake with 25,000 miles.
The levers are unbelievably comfortable and they don't seem to be eroding either. Used them all the last 3,900 mile tour and a bit more. They look better than anything else IMO. I switched the rivet to long pull. I bought 2 pairs at the time, I'm so glad. I have old chrome swept back 70d bars.
Black levers will lose the finish anyway, so forget that.
#3
Clark W. Griswold
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I vote TRP Spyre cable and silver Sturmey Archer levers with plastic inserts.
I have both with my Rohloff. Stops on a dime. The front has SA drum brake with 25,000 miles.
The levers are unbelievably comfortable and they don't seem to be eroding either. Used them all the last 3,900 mile tour and a bit more. They look better than anything else IMO. I switched the rivet to long pull. I bought 2 pairs at the time, I'm so glad. I have old chrome swept back 70d bars.
Black levers will lose the finish anyway, so forget that.
I have both with my Rohloff. Stops on a dime. The front has SA drum brake with 25,000 miles.
The levers are unbelievably comfortable and they don't seem to be eroding either. Used them all the last 3,900 mile tour and a bit more. They look better than anything else IMO. I switched the rivet to long pull. I bought 2 pairs at the time, I'm so glad. I have old chrome swept back 70d bars.
Black levers will lose the finish anyway, so forget that.
#4
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If using flat bars, the world is your oyster - you can get any 'MTB' brake set and it should be golden.
IME, cable disc brakes are usually a compromise for lower cost or to use existing levers (like on a drop-bar bike which have few options for hydraulic levers). Hydraulic discs are superior.
I have had great success with Shimano hydraulic discs, and less success with Hayes hydraulic discs. But both were clearly superior to the cable discs I have tried (Avid and Tektro).
IME, cable disc brakes are usually a compromise for lower cost or to use existing levers (like on a drop-bar bike which have few options for hydraulic levers). Hydraulic discs are superior.
I have had great success with Shimano hydraulic discs, and less success with Hayes hydraulic discs. But both were clearly superior to the cable discs I have tried (Avid and Tektro).
#5
Cycleway town
No point in me looking past my Shimano Zee setup, with 180/203mm discs.
I ride a 45mph e-tandem weighing over 100 lbs - they stop that as well as any bike I've ever had, and are great to use with good feel and adjustable-reach levers that feel just right.
Loads of pad choices too, I'm currently using ceramic, in an effort to find something longer lasting than my usual semi metal / sintered.
I ride a 45mph e-tandem weighing over 100 lbs - they stop that as well as any bike I've ever had, and are great to use with good feel and adjustable-reach levers that feel just right.
Loads of pad choices too, I'm currently using ceramic, in an effort to find something longer lasting than my usual semi metal / sintered.
#7
Senior Member
Shimano hydros, work great.
#8
Clark W. Griswold
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If using flat bars, the world is your oyster - you can get any 'MTB' brake set and it should be golden.
IME, cable disc brakes are usually a compromise for lower cost or to use existing levers (like on a drop-bar bike which have few options for hydraulic levers). Hydraulic discs are superior.
I have had great success with Shimano hydraulic discs, and less success with Hayes hydraulic discs. But both were clearly superior to the cable discs I have tried (Avid and Tektro).
IME, cable disc brakes are usually a compromise for lower cost or to use existing levers (like on a drop-bar bike which have few options for hydraulic levers). Hydraulic discs are superior.
I have had great success with Shimano hydraulic discs, and less success with Hayes hydraulic discs. But both were clearly superior to the cable discs I have tried (Avid and Tektro).
Normally I am pretty good at figuring out parts and what I like and don't like but here I am so unsure and keep waffling between stuff I had the idea to crowd source it like the milleniums are doing these days.
I think it is for dialing in the modulation, granted I don't think I have ever actually dialed in my modulation but after learning that I might play more with it.
#9
Cycleway town
You need adaptors for disc size anyway, the calipers don't mount directly to the frame/fork unless you want tiny discs... So flat mount is largely irrelevant.
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When you select your brakes and rotors you also select the adaptors that work with your frame and fork for the desired rotor size. The adaptors, IIRC, are about $8 each.
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Also, you said you would use your AVID SD7 levers, but for that they are long pull? Most disc brakes require long pull levers - a few (like the SPyres) are road-specific, but that is so they will work with drop-bar levers.
And long pull levers and calipers are likely (marginally) better than short pull because there is less tension in the cable, and so less housing compression reducing brake feel and modulation.
If you a want the TRP brakes like the Spyre, I believe they make a long-cable-pull version for mtbs called the Spyke.
But really, hydraulic are superior.
And long pull levers and calipers are likely (marginally) better than short pull because there is less tension in the cable, and so less housing compression reducing brake feel and modulation.
If you a want the TRP brakes like the Spyre, I believe they make a long-cable-pull version for mtbs called the Spyke.
But really, hydraulic are superior.
#12
Clark W. Griswold
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Also, you said you would use your AVID SD7 levers, but for that they are long pull? Most disc brakes require long pull levers - a few (like the SPyres) are road-specific, but that is so they will work with drop-bar levers.
And long pull levers and calipers are likely (marginally) better than short pull because there is less tension in the cable, and so less housing compression reducing brake feel and modulation.
If you a want the TRP brakes like the Spyre, I believe they make a long-cable-pull version for mtbs called the Spyke.
But really, hydraulic are superior.
And long pull levers and calipers are likely (marginally) better than short pull because there is less tension in the cable, and so less housing compression reducing brake feel and modulation.
If you a want the TRP brakes like the Spyre, I believe they make a long-cable-pull version for mtbs called the Spyke.
But really, hydraulic are superior.
I already have a set of Spyre flat mount brakes so if swapping to Spykes was the option I would probably skip that and go hydraulic. The more I think about it the more hydro is what I want but figuring out what configuration I want is what is troubling me.