How to Wear Out (Stretch) the Chain Evenly - Routine Maintenance
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How to Wear Out (Stretch) the Chain Evenly - Routine Maintenance
I thought I should share this so I made a video of taking care of your chain on how to wear out the chain evenly. Please feel free to comment.
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Faulty logic. The number of links in your chain is not an exact multiple of the number of teeth on your chainring. As you pedal the chain does not engage the chainring at the same point as the last time it engaged the chainring. Chain wear happens uniformly over time
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#3
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Sorry, it was too painful to watch the whole thing. Does he think that only the top half of the chain gets worn out?
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I wear mine out evenly by riding.
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#5
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I think the chain has the trajectory path on what links are put to greater stress as you push down the pedal versus relieving the pressure on the pedal, meaning they are at "fixed" rate. The links don't rotate around for even wear unless you pull the chain off the ring and reposition the chain on the ring by several inches... If the pedaling was done by a machine to put steady pressure for the entire length of the chain it would result in even wear, or stretch, no?
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I think the chain has the trajectory path on what links are put to greater stress as you push down the pedal versus relieving the pressure on the pedal, meaning they are at "fixed" rate. The links don't rotate around for even wear unless you pull the chain off the ring and reposition the chain on the ring by several inches... If the pedaling was done by a machine to put steady pressure for the entire length of the chain it would result in even wear, or stretch, no?
However, the wear at the chainring is nothing compared to the wear that occurs where the chain goes over the cassette. The power transmitted by the crank is distributed over far fewer teeth on the cog and the chain has to bend much more to engage the teeth. Then the chain has to bend twice more to pass through the derailleur pulleys. This is where the majority of chain wear happens.
Chains don't stretch, they wear
Last edited by alcjphil; 01-19-20 at 07:31 PM.
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If you stopped buying overpriced Campagnolo Chorus chains and buy KMC instead you can worry less about chain stretch. You can buy 2 KMC chains for the price of 1 Chorus chain.
Chains have a definitive lifespan no matter how much they cost. It's a high stress part. There is no way to really avoid the wear and stretch. Why worry about it prolonging the chain's life by 10% ? 5% ? 2% ? It would be near impossible to measure the effectiveness.
Chains have a definitive lifespan no matter how much they cost. It's a high stress part. There is no way to really avoid the wear and stretch. Why worry about it prolonging the chain's life by 10% ? 5% ? 2% ? It would be near impossible to measure the effectiveness.
Last edited by trailflow1; 01-19-20 at 07:41 PM.
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OP: You are completely wrong - but if you wish to waste your time, go right ahead.
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#10
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Wear is wear. Stretch is stretch. Regardless of where on the chain it happens...it happens. Bottom line is that it’s going to wear/stretch somewhere and it will have the same affect. Besides...the repositioning happens frequently as a consequence of going through the gears.
Dan
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Please don't make videos about things you know nothing about.
Last edited by LAJ; 01-20-20 at 03:19 PM.
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Oh, now, knowing things and being right is over rated.
Questioning is good. Fits right in with some of my ideas about reversing and/or flipping chain to even out the wear,
and measuring chain wear by weight...
Last edited by LAJ; 01-20-20 at 03:19 PM.
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Chains don't wear unevenly. Measure the stretch (distance between 12 links using a ruler) at several spots along the chain and it will be the same.
Last edited by LAJ; 01-20-20 at 03:22 PM.
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I gave up most of the way through. This makes absolutely no sense at all. As far as tension goes, each link goes through exactly the same cycle as all of the others on each revolution. Even if it were a matter of tension stretching things (it's not), no link is going through a different cycle than any other, and repositioning will accomplish exactly nothing.
The only way I can imagine uneven wear being a real thing is if there were a bad tooth on the chain ring or gear, and only if the ring were perfectly synchronized so that the bad tooth kept hitting the same links. That's a really far-fetched scenario, especially on a multi-gear bike.
The only way I can imagine uneven wear being a real thing is if there were a bad tooth on the chain ring or gear, and only if the ring were perfectly synchronized so that the bad tooth kept hitting the same links. That's a really far-fetched scenario, especially on a multi-gear bike.
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I gave up most of the way through. This makes absolutely no sense at all. As far as tension goes, each link goes through exactly the same cycle as all of the others on each revolution. Even if it were a matter of tension stretching things (it's not), no link is going through a different cycle than any other, and repositioning will accomplish exactly nothing.
The only way I can imagine uneven wear being a real thing is if there were a bad tooth on the chain ring or gear, and only if the ring were perfectly synchronized so that the bad tooth kept hitting the same links. That's a really far-fetched scenario, especially on a multi-gear bike.
The only way I can imagine uneven wear being a real thing is if there were a bad tooth on the chain ring or gear, and only if the ring were perfectly synchronized so that the bad tooth kept hitting the same links. That's a really far-fetched scenario, especially on a multi-gear bike.
Also, the whole chain is not in tension at the same time. It's only under significant tension on the top run, and is only experiencing wear where it comes off the cassette cog and where it goes onto the chainring. The chain experiences no wear while running in a straight line, and is under no tension (meaning no wear) on the bottom run and through the derailleur.
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I gave up most of the way through. This makes absolutely no sense at all. As far as tension goes, each link goes through exactly the same cycle as all of the others on each revolution. Even if it were a matter of tension stretching things (it's not), no link is going through a different cycle than any other, and repositioning will accomplish exactly nothing.
The only way I can imagine uneven wear being a real thing is if there were a bad tooth on the chain ring or gear, and only if the ring were perfectly synchronized so that the bad tooth kept hitting the same links. That's a really far-fetched scenario, especially on a multi-gear bike.
The only way I can imagine uneven wear being a real thing is if there were a bad tooth on the chain ring or gear, and only if the ring were perfectly synchronized so that the bad tooth kept hitting the same links. That's a really far-fetched scenario, especially on a multi-gear bike.
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-mr. bill
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Actually, he is correct about there being higher tension and therefore different rates of wear at different points in the pedal stroke. What he has wrong is that the same segment of chain isn't on the same spot on the chainring every pedal revolution and so there is no need to manually move the chain.
Also, the whole chain is not in tension at the same time. It's only under significant tension on the top run, and is only experiencing wear where it comes off the cassette cog and where it goes onto the chainring. The chain experiences no wear while running in a straight line, and is under no tension (meaning no wear) on the bottom run and through the derailleur.
Also, the whole chain is not in tension at the same time. It's only under significant tension on the top run, and is only experiencing wear where it comes off the cassette cog and where it goes onto the chainring. The chain experiences no wear while running in a straight line, and is under no tension (meaning no wear) on the bottom run and through the derailleur.
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I think I'm more likely to damage my fork hitting a unicorn than I am to actually get that exact ratio.
The bad tooth is going to ruin the chain even or uneven, anyway.