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Just bought a titanium road bike for $100: it needs some help.

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Just bought a titanium road bike for $100: it needs some help.

Old 02-10-20, 07:25 PM
  #26  
WizardOfBoz
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Naw, I think that chainstay is just fine. It just has teh "Serotta style" wavy chain and seat stays. Quick test: run a string through the rear dropouts and pull both sides of the string up to the head tube. Tie it off tight to the head tube. Measure the distance between the string and the seat stay on both sides. This will tell you a little bit about the alignment. If the string-to-tube distance is the same on both sides, worry about other things.

What is the rear dropout distance? 126mm limits you a bit. 130mm and the world is your oyster. My understanding is that Ti is not so easily cold set as steel. I'd be happy with the existing parts and picking up ebay parts to match. OTOH, I just put an R8000 Ultegra groupset on a 1999 Lemond. Flippin' magic, man.

If this thing works out you got a steal. Even if not, parting it out should make you even. Good luck.
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Old 02-10-20, 08:03 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by zarbog View Post
A copy paste troll
Who, you?

Back off.
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Originally Posted by making View Post
Please dont outsmart the censor. That is a very expensive censor and every time one of you guys outsmart it it makes someone at the home office feel bad. We dont wanna do that. So dont cleverly disguise bad words.
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Old 02-11-20, 11:23 AM
  #28  
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You have a nice frame. Agree with getting some Scotch Brite pads....not the green stuff from your local supermarket. Get online and get the "fine" and "ultra-fine" pads. They will be gray and red in color. Apply duct tape to one side, then cut lengthwise into one inch strips. Hold the strip of scotch brite on either end and "polish" around the tubes, don't scrub the frame like your wiping down a counter top. The tape on the opposite side supports the strip and ensures even application of force when polishing. Use the fine pad first, if your happy, no need to followup with ultra fine.
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Old 02-11-20, 01:52 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by WizardOfBoz View Post
Naw, I think that chainstay is just fine. It just has teh "Serotta style" wavy chain and seat stays. .
My custom ti bike has curved stays. But if you look closely it appears the right chainstay could be bent in more than the left, suggesting a broadside impact with a vehicle. Then again, and I noted above, it could just be the camera lens distorting things.
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Old 02-11-20, 01:54 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Siu Blue Wind View Post
Who, you?
I think he was referring to the fact that the OP started two identical threads; something for which he has since apologized for. Se post #12 .
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Old 02-11-20, 02:08 PM
  #31  
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Relayed from a TI bike enthusiast- one issue that can come up is that people have trouble getting bikes fitted, so they order the custom-ti, get it in made exactly to their specifications and discover it's unrideable for whatever reason (ie, as in unstable or something). So if possible, try riding it some, even if coasting down hills, before putting money into it.
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Old 02-11-20, 02:23 PM
  #32  
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If the chainstays and seatstays are symmetrical, and in alignment, then they aren't bent.



From what I see, they're fine.
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Old 02-11-20, 02:30 PM
  #33  
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From a friend, for what it's worth:
"In the early 90s there were a bunch of Russian made Ti bikes out there as a cheaper alternative to Litespeed and Merlin. I had one sold with Nashbar stickers on it....If it is Ti it is probably one of those."
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Old 02-11-20, 02:49 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by indyfabz View Post
My custom ti bike has curved stays.
Ok, ok, I'm jealous!

Originally Posted by indyfabz View Post
But if you look closely it appears the right chainstay could be bent in more than the left, suggesting a broadside impact with a vehicle. Then again, and I noted above, it could just be the camera lens distorting things.
Always worth testing on a garbage day find. I think that the OP looked at it closely. I'd still do a Sheldon Brown quickcheck with twine. Monofilament is probably less ambiguous.
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Old 02-11-20, 03:35 PM
  #35  
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So, it seems to me, if you went and bought a new bike for $1000 and stripped off all the brand new components and put them on your new one, you would have a new Ti bike with new gear for $1100. Now if you are feeling industrious, you could sell the new, naked frame for $200. Now the net price of the new bike is probably less than the components bought separately, not including your sweat equity.
Good luck
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Old 02-11-20, 06:14 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by indyfabz View Post
I think he was referring to the fact that the OP started two identical threads; something for which he has since apologized for. Se post #12 .
Thank you for the clarity but I saw that. This is not the way to treat a new person who is trying to gain information on here. Everyone else is helping, and that is appreciated, that is what this place is for.

He is clearly trolling the OP by calling him a troll. If he thinks he's a troll, he can report it.
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Originally Posted by making View Post
Please dont outsmart the censor. That is a very expensive censor and every time one of you guys outsmart it it makes someone at the home office feel bad. We dont wanna do that. So dont cleverly disguise bad words.
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Old 02-11-20, 06:22 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by ridelikeaturtle View Post
That drive-side chainstay looks really bent.
I saw that and my first thought was asymmetric stays.
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Old 02-11-20, 08:19 PM
  #38  
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You guys are awesome. I started pulling parts off and it looks like I'll need a new handle bar and possibly a new fork (the bottom of the steering tube is scored).

I almost wish it you didn't tell me about using scotch Brite on the frame. I was just going to live with the clear coat peeling. Tonight cleaned up the head tube. The bare metal looks good. I don't know how many hours it will take me to rub that damn clear coat off :/

I know a newer 105 or ultegra will probably work better, but I always thought the 7800 crank was the best looking crank Shimano made. I'll just wait until I can get a deal on a used set.

I'll post a pick of the cleaned up frame when I'm done. I still can't believe how good the bare metal looks.

Dwayne
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Old 02-12-20, 03:54 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Dalvis View Post
I saw an ad on Nextdoor for the bike. It was 1/4 mile from my house. The next thing I remember is putting on my work stand and taking things off to clean.

no labels on the frame (I'm guessing it's a 58 cm). The frame seems straight. Ultegra 6600 with ksyrium elite wheels.

the front wheel needs to be trued. It may need a new headset (it has significant play), the shifters are broken and the chain and cassette are rusted.

I'm thinking of getting dura ace 7800 shifters ($175). I think the chain, cassette and cables would cost a little over $100.

This was obviously an impulse buy and I'm now wondering if I'm spending too much on my $100 purchase.

FYI I haven't bought a bike on 15 years. My last bike was used with dura ace 7700.

Any advice is welcome

Thanks

Dwayne
You did not state emphatically that the frame fitted you. You said it may be 58 cm. Do you know if the frame fits you? If you are not sure, take some basic frame measurements and give your own personal measurements and let the frame fit guys on this forum tell you if it is in the ballpark to fitting you. One poster has already stated this is not an average frame, it looks big. You can do the best rebuild in the world, but if the frame does not fit you, it will not be satisfactory...Thanks,mjac
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Old 02-12-20, 08:10 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Dalvis View Post
You guys are awesome. I started pulling parts off and it looks like I'll need a new handle bar and possibly a new fork (the bottom of the steering tube is scored).

I almost wish it you didn't tell me about using scotch Brite on the frame. I was just going to live with the clear coat peeling. Tonight cleaned up the head tube. The bare metal looks good. I don't know how many hours it will take me to rub that damn clear coat off :/

I know a newer 105 or ultegra will probably work better, but I always thought the 7800 crank was the best looking crank Shimano made. I'll just wait until I can get a deal on a used set.

I'll post a pick of the cleaned up frame when I'm done. I still can't believe how good the bare metal looks.

Dwayne
Dwayne,

If you have acetone, you can wipe the frame down to get rid of the clear coat easier. You can make that frame look amazing if you take your time with the scotch brite pads. Just remember to follow the grain around the tubes. It will look brand new when you are done...that's the great thing about Ti, and scotch brite.
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Old 02-12-20, 08:15 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Dalvis View Post
I still can't believe how good the bare metal looks.

Dwayne
Dwayne....watch this video

www.youtube.com/watch?v=EaJqiUdmiA8
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Old 02-12-20, 08:39 AM
  #42  
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It's 9 speed? I bet it's from the early-mid 2000s.

When you say the shifters are broken, what do you mean? In my experience, even when thrashed they work. Do they still pull cable and hold clicks? Most "broken" shifters are just missing the plastic finishing bits. I don't know if you can get 8-9 speed trimmings still so even if they work, could be ugly.

I'm with the folks asking if it fits. Judging by headtube only, it sure looks 61-62 to me. I don't know how tall you are though.

Definitely worth what you paid. Even though I ride 55-56, I'd have bought it for that price too just for a fun project.
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Old 02-12-20, 10:47 AM
  #43  
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You're good. It's 61 cm C-T. My current bike is 60 cm. I'm 5-11 with a 32 in inseam. I had a 58 cm when I was in high school and I like the way the 60 cm fits. It may not be the "perfect" size, but I think it will be close enough.
It has ultegra 6600 on it. I'm guessing it's from the mid 2000's
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Old 02-12-20, 02:23 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Dalvis View Post
You're good. It's 61 cm C-T. My current bike is 60 cm. I'm 5-11 with a 32 in inseam. I had a 58 cm when I was in high school and I like the way the 60 cm fits. It may not be the "perfect" size, but I think it will be close enough.
It has ultegra 6600 on it. I'm guessing it's from the mid 2000's
Well, start building.
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Old 02-17-20, 03:50 PM
  #45  
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Is it just the way the light is hitting the frame, or are the sides of the downtube flattened? If so, that should be a clue to the maker origin. I've only seen round and airfoil ("bladed") downtubes.
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Old 02-17-20, 04:32 PM
  #46  
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I'd stick with the Ultegra 6600 groupset that it was built with, just buying what you need to to re-build it. You gotta agree that's there's really nothing wrong with the 6600. Sure, if the frame is really your size and you want a custom keeper, then spend bigger bucks to make it a nice as your budget allows. But see a pro fitter before big spending if you're not sure on fit.
Nice Find Sir!
Enjoy it.
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Old 02-17-20, 05:18 PM
  #47  
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After a bit of research on eBay (someone was selling the exact frame as I have). I think I have a few answers. It is a Mongoose frame from the early 2000s. I looked up TST sandvik and Mongoose.
Apparently TST made titanium frames among other things for several companies. I think they were high quality. The only negative so far is the 1 inch head tube.
i just finished striping the clear coat off and am looking forward to getting a working bike.

Is there a place to get parts for an old ksyrium wheel? The rear wheel is true, but the plastic cup on one side of the hub is missing?

Thanks

Dwayne
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Old 02-17-20, 07:23 PM
  #48  
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Dwayne, To save time stripping off the clear coat you might want to use "Klean-Strip" aircraft peeler base coat and clear coat remover. I used it on a chrome frame and it worked well. Best to do it outside, use rubber gloves and old clothes or overhauls. I got just a drop on my skin and it burned. I sprayed it on, waited 5 minutes, and then scraped it off with an old plastic credit card. Shining the finish up with red scotch bright pads should be easy after that. I ordered a can of the aircraft stripper at my local auto parts store - they did not have it in stock, but got it in a couple of days. Good luck with your project.
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Old 02-17-20, 07:52 PM
  #49  
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Funny. That's what I used. It more than 5 minutes though. I probably didn't use it correctly because I had to apply it several times. At this point I have had way more than $100 in entertainment.

I appreciate the advice found here.

Dwayne.
​​​​​​
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Old 02-21-20, 08:17 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by Dalvis View Post
Funny. That's what I used. It more than 5 minutes though. I probably didn't use it correctly because I had to apply it several times. At this point I have had way more than $100 in entertainment.

I appreciate the advice found here.

Dwayne.
​​​​​​
...and when are we going to see pictures of the polished frame? A little before and after.
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