Bent chain segment during installation
 

Hi All, I am new to bike maintenance. When I tried replacing my bike chain at home, the connection rivet was very tight and I wasn't able to loosen it without using a screw driver and force it between the two metal plates. Now the connection rivet is loosened, but I noticed the upper plate is slightly bent, Oh!
My question: is this chain done? Or I am fine riding it with limited time? Or the segment would be durable and I am completely fine?

If you were able to press the rivet in, I assume you have a chain tool.
All chain(breaker) tools I’ve seen in recent history have had a feature to create slack in a link too.
Apart from that, there’s no way to tell. Your joint might be good enough to last the natural life of the chain. Or it might fail two blocks from home.

What chain ? did it come with a quick link ?

Do you have a chain pin removal tool ?

If a link is bent it would not be safe to use.

But if you have a chain pin removal tool, you can remove the link completely and then re-connect on the adjacent links with a quick link. I dont recommend connecting a chain together by a pin because there is little room for error. a quick link is far easier. Especially for a beginner. Just buy a quick link, and the open/close pliers for the quick link, and a chain pin removal tool.

Also you need to be aware of the chain length to match the old chain, and not to shorten it too much.

How did you put the chain back together?

How many speeds is the chain for? If greater than 7 then a quick link should be used.

Why did you use a screwdriver on your chain? If a link is tight then you flex the chain at that link by holding the chain and flexing it form one side to the other.

If you did NOT use a chain tool to put the chain back together or use a quick ling then do NOT ride the bike as there's a high risk of the chain coming apart under load such as when starting off from a stop (like at a busy intersection) or sprinting.

Cheers

Sounds like the OP pried the outer plates apart instead of using a chain tool to squeeze them.

That's what I think too. Plus it's why I asked how he put the chain back together. If he didn't use a quick link on the chain (if the chain is more than 8-speeds) then he's riding an unsafe chain. Ditto if he didn't use a chain tool on a 7-speed or less chain. I have the feeling that he just squeezed the plates together if he did indeed reassemble the chain.

Cheers

I wouldn’t ride on what you described.

Buy a new chain and a chain tool, then watch a YouTube vid on changing out your chain.

Many thanks to you all.😊
It's a $10 schiwinn chain without master link (for 7 speed derailleur). Long story short: the connection rivet does not have snap-off part, it just comes with one end inserted and wait to be driven in by chain tool. The upper plate got squeezed when I guide it through the derailleur (there are some narrow parts). I used a chain tool to squeeze it in.

I can't post pictures as newbie here :-(

i posted same title thread "

Bent chain segment during installation

" on bike stack exchange where they allow posting picture as newbie.

Ah. When putting a new chain on you put the end without the protruding rivet through the derailleur cages. It will fit where the protruding pin won't. For that type of chain, to SAFELY secure the pin you need to use a chain tool. If you're not sure how to do that there are three options.
#1 . go to a bicycle shop when it's not busy, buy the tool and ask them to show you how to use it.
#2 . If there is a bicycle co-op near you go there and get them to show you how to install a chain.
#3 . Buy a chain tool somewhere and watch a You Tube vied or more on how to use the tool.

Caveat. Beware of the ultra-cheap white metal chain tools that have a nasty habit of breaking when used.

Good luck and cheers

is there a chain tool that could drive the two metal plates apart? I thought the chain tool is only useful when driving the pin.
I used screw driver to pry the plates apart after the pin is in. now it seems working without jump with the drivetrain.

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That link circled looks OK. Perhaps a bit better explanation of the concern.

A couple of notes. If you have a chain that comes with a pin sticking out, don't force it through the derailleur. Simply run the other end of the chain without the pin sticking out through the derailleur.

Some of the new chains are peened, and take a bit of pressure to crack the pin loose. Just make sure your chain tool is pressing on the middle of the pin.

The lower shelf on the chain tool to squish the chain together, or push pins out (most frequently used).

The upper shelf on the chain tool to expand tight links.

yeah that was my mistake. I tried to drive it through derailleur and at one point it was stuck and I have to push it through😲. I need more practice though

If all else fails, you can usually remove the derailleur pulleys which will also remove the back plate on the derailleur cage.

I actually like to clean and lube the pulleys whenever I change the chain.

it's very relieving to hear from you guys, i would test if the chain is durable, worst case I would use a master link to replace the bent metal plate

I am back again. Had to remove another rivet and remount the chain, because I installed it in a wrong way (what a sad day😮)
Then I drove back the same rivet use chain tool.

The same problem emerge again, and simple flexing won't make it loose enough.
If not using screw driver, are there any other ways to loosen it?

Am I fine just leave it there? There is a noise when the stiff link goes through derailleur but otherwise the drive train works.

Spread the link - see tutorial
 

It doesn't look like you actually bent the chain link itself as viewed from your picture. Sometimes when you join a chain that doesn't have a master link, the one link you use to make the joint ends up stiff. It may be just a matter of needing to spread the stiff link. See step 6 in this Instructable tutorial https://www.instructables.com/id/Usi...ke-Chain-Tool/
Note that you use the second set of pins for this. It doesn't take much, maybe an 1/8 turn of the handle. Just back it off, test the link, and try again a bit more it the link is still stiff. I can't think of two greater inventions than a master link chain and an $8-10 master link removal tool. You can buy decent KMC chains online from eBay or Amazon and not have to mess around with the chain pin tool.

iirc, when I ended up with a stiff link after pressing in the pin, I turned the tool around and pressed the pin in slightly from the other side to relieve the pressure. Maybe 1/8 - 1/4 turn - the pin didn’t really move at all, but it was enough to loosen things up. Thank god I don’t have to mess with that crap anymore. Quick links are the business!

Is your chain still long enough to go onto the big chainring and the biggest rear cog without binding? If no then you should lengthen the chain or (shudder) get another one. Accidentally shifting into the big big combination with too short a chain can do damage to the bicycle and/or cause a crash.

Cheers