Rivendell Clem Smith Jr. build -- planning stages
#26
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I think Rivendell will install the BB and headset if you order them with the frame, maybe there is a small fee. With the BB and headset installed you don’t need a ‘vendor’ to build the bike.
You can assemble a good set of hex keys, a cable cutter, decent pliers and adjustable wrench, a cassette tool for your cassette, a chain whip, crank puller, and tire levers. These are the basic bike tools any home bike mechanic should have. If you go slowly and carefully you can put all the parts on yourself in a couple of weekends.
You can assemble a good set of hex keys, a cable cutter, decent pliers and adjustable wrench, a cassette tool for your cassette, a chain whip, crank puller, and tire levers. These are the basic bike tools any home bike mechanic should have. If you go slowly and carefully you can put all the parts on yourself in a couple of weekends.
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I inherited a bike with twist-grip shifters...not a big problem but fairly easy to shift accidentally esp in hot weather with sweaty hands.
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#28
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Were you riding long distances? It wasn't a problem for me until I started riding centuries, then it got bad.
ThE accidental shifts really were annoying as well.
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#29
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I think Rivendell will install the BB and headset if you order them with the frame, maybe there is a small fee. With the BB and headset installed you don’t need a ‘vendor’ to build the bike.
You can assemble a good set of hex keys, a cable cutter, decent pliers and adjustable wrench, a cassette tool for your cassette, a chain whip, crank puller, and tire levers. These are the basic bike tools any home bike mechanic should have. If you go slowly and carefully you can put all the parts on yourself in a couple of weekends.
You can assemble a good set of hex keys, a cable cutter, decent pliers and adjustable wrench, a cassette tool for your cassette, a chain whip, crank puller, and tire levers. These are the basic bike tools any home bike mechanic should have. If you go slowly and carefully you can put all the parts on yourself in a couple of weekends.
On the Riv build, though, I'm leaning toward a shop install. They can source any parts I might not find; can adjust and tune given what they know through experience on the platform and with those major parts; and they can assist with the final fitting adjustments. On this one, for me, I think it might be worth it.
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No, only for 2-hour max rides. I don't know why twist-shifters even exist apart from special situations like a Rohloff IGH.
#31
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[QUOTE=Clyde1820;21561633]Am in the process of selecting a vendor for the build-up of a Rivendell Clem Smith Jr bike. Rough initial list of component preferences noted below.
If anyone's got suggestions or recommendations for components, on this bike, I'm all ears. Open to suggestions on lighter components to aid in keeping the weight down. But then, as a "Clyde," myself, there's a limit to "weight-weenie" thinking on the vitals such as wheel set and bearings (hub, head).
Basic goals: extreme low gearing; commuting, with occasional very light "credit-card" over-nighters; a decent "Rivendell" look to the thing; reliable and fairly durable, but without unnecessary weight. Probably a Bronzey Green, leather & silver "classic" color scheme to everything, but we'll see.
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I believe the Clems were initially sold as a total bike with a build kit already installed. I remember reading a Rivendell email where they will be making more of these frames/bikes, so they may sell the frames separately the next time.
If you are going to go with Paul brakes, I would strongly consider the Paul levers too. I have used both Paul brakes and levers a lot and find that the levers make a difference with feel of those brakes. Basically, the Paul levers are pretty amazing with no slop to the feel.
If anyone's got suggestions or recommendations for components, on this bike, I'm all ears. Open to suggestions on lighter components to aid in keeping the weight down. But then, as a "Clyde," myself, there's a limit to "weight-weenie" thinking on the vitals such as wheel set and bearings (hub, head).
Basic goals: extreme low gearing; commuting, with occasional very light "credit-card" over-nighters; a decent "Rivendell" look to the thing; reliable and fairly durable, but without unnecessary weight. Probably a Bronzey Green, leather & silver "classic" color scheme to everything, but we'll see.
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Frame set -- Rivendell Clem Smith Jr., step-through "L" model possibly, 26in wheels.
Crank set -- Spécialités TA Carmina, 9spd double (94/58mm BCD), 155-160mm arms, 34/20T rings, 11-42T cassette, Connex chain.
Bottom bracket -- undecided.
Derailleurs -- Shimano 9spd.
Shifters -- Shimano 9spd barcon "guts" on Paul Components "thumbies" frames; friction/indexed.
Headset -- undecided, at this point. (1" threaded.)
Brakes -- Paul Components touring cantilever, w/ Velo Orange Grand Cru levers.
Wheels -- Velocity CliffHanger 26 36H (25mm I.D.), Sapim Force spokes and brass nipples.
Tires/tubes -- ReneHerse Rat Trap Pass 26x2.3" (or Naches Pass 26x1.8") tires, with Schwalbe tubes, Velox cloth rim liners.
Hubs -- Bitex touring 36H.
Stem -- Nitto Tallux or Nitto DirtDrop, sizing based on fitting.
Handlebars -- Nitto Bosco 58cm (aluminum).
Seat post -- undecided.
Saddle -- Brooks B67 Aged.
Grips -- undecided.
Cables -- JagWire Pro 5mm, polished stainless.
Cable Housing -- JagWire Pro 5mm housing, brass ferrules, inline adjusters.
Lighting -- undecided, as yet, but considering dynamo front hub and Busch & Müller lighting.
Security bolts -- decent anti-theft bolts all around (ie, PitLoc or similar).
Rack, front and rear -- undecided; lighter, if done.
Panniers/bags -- undecided. Possibly, just a front porteur rack and bag.
Bell -- a stem-mounted brass bell, of course.
Fenders -- undecided.
./QUOTE]Crank set -- Spécialités TA Carmina, 9spd double (94/58mm BCD), 155-160mm arms, 34/20T rings, 11-42T cassette, Connex chain.
Bottom bracket -- undecided.
Derailleurs -- Shimano 9spd.
Shifters -- Shimano 9spd barcon "guts" on Paul Components "thumbies" frames; friction/indexed.
Headset -- undecided, at this point. (1" threaded.)
Brakes -- Paul Components touring cantilever, w/ Velo Orange Grand Cru levers.
Wheels -- Velocity CliffHanger 26 36H (25mm I.D.), Sapim Force spokes and brass nipples.
Tires/tubes -- ReneHerse Rat Trap Pass 26x2.3" (or Naches Pass 26x1.8") tires, with Schwalbe tubes, Velox cloth rim liners.
Hubs -- Bitex touring 36H.
Stem -- Nitto Tallux or Nitto DirtDrop, sizing based on fitting.
Handlebars -- Nitto Bosco 58cm (aluminum).
Seat post -- undecided.
Saddle -- Brooks B67 Aged.
Grips -- undecided.
Cables -- JagWire Pro 5mm, polished stainless.
Cable Housing -- JagWire Pro 5mm housing, brass ferrules, inline adjusters.
Lighting -- undecided, as yet, but considering dynamo front hub and Busch & Müller lighting.
Security bolts -- decent anti-theft bolts all around (ie, PitLoc or similar).
Rack, front and rear -- undecided; lighter, if done.
Panniers/bags -- undecided. Possibly, just a front porteur rack and bag.
Bell -- a stem-mounted brass bell, of course.
Fenders -- undecided.
I believe the Clems were initially sold as a total bike with a build kit already installed. I remember reading a Rivendell email where they will be making more of these frames/bikes, so they may sell the frames separately the next time.
If you are going to go with Paul brakes, I would strongly consider the Paul levers too. I have used both Paul brakes and levers a lot and find that the levers make a difference with feel of those brakes. Basically, the Paul levers are pretty amazing with no slop to the feel.
#32
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One thing about their fully-configured bikes, as with every other manufacturer: nobody supplies them with very low-geared drive trains. Nobody. Which will likely require alteration to at lest the rear derailleur, cassette and chainrings, if not also the rest (crank, front derailleur, shifters). And moving to a better-quality, better-looking brake (beyond the Tektro). And a wider, tougher wheel build (for crappier streets and heavier loads). Could do a fully-configured bike, then part-out the swap-outs if changes get made. That's an option, if there end up being precious few frame sets and they get snapped up a moment after arriving.
If you are going to go with Paul brakes, I would strongly consider the Paul levers too. I have used both Paul brakes and levers a lot and find that the levers make a difference with feel of those brakes. Basically, the Paul levers are pretty amazing with no slop to the feel.