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Buying new saddle

Old 08-02-20, 10:11 AM
  #1  
daveton
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Buying new saddle

Mostly a curiosity question. When buying a new saddle how would you know if itís the right fit?Weather itís comfortable? Right saddle for the riding you do? The saddle that came with my bike is working out fine. I just thought Iíd throw out the question. Also how will I know when I need to replace the pads on my disc breaks?
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Old 08-02-20, 10:18 AM
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Oooh Another 'which saddle' thread ...

as to the disc pads .. take them out & look ?
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Old 08-02-20, 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
Oooh Another 'which saddle' thread ...
Not only that, I'm not even sure why he mentioned the weather.
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Old 08-02-20, 11:08 AM
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You can determine if a saddle will be comfortable by ensuring the seat height, fore and aft adjustment, and tilt are correct, as well as your reach.
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Old 08-02-20, 11:15 AM
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I have Specialized Body Geometry (which is surprisingly comfortable), Brooks B-17 which is a very nice saddle (and quite comfortable), and Selle AnAtomica which is an extremely nice saddle (and extremely comfortable - and also my favorite).

Those are my choices!
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Old 08-02-20, 11:22 AM
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Test ride and bring your buttocks
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Old 08-02-20, 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by daveton View Post
Mostly a curiosity question. When buying a new saddle how would you know if itís the right fit?Weather itís comfortable? Right saddle for the riding you do? The saddle that came with my bike is working out fine. I just thought Iíd throw out the question. Also how will I know when I need to replace the pads on my disc breaks?
You really canít know if a saddle is going to be comfortable until you try it.

As for the disk pads, just visually inspect them. If the bike is new notice the thickness of the pads now and make a mental note. If the bike isnít new, go look at a pair of replacement pads at your local bike store and make a mental note of the thickness. Then inspect your pads every 6 months or so. When they get very thin, replace them. I can get about 12-15,000 miles out of my pads, but some people get significantly more and some significantly less.
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Old 08-02-20, 01:45 PM
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Some bike shops have "test saddles" you can use to help decide which saddle works best. You put a nominal deposit down, install the test saddle on your bike, ride for some arbitrary period (days, weeks, whatever the shop can agree to), and get your deposit back (or apply it to a new saddle) when you return the test saddle.
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Old 08-02-20, 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
Oooh Another 'which saddle' thread ...

as to the disc pads .. take them out & look ?
Saddle threads can be entertaining but nothing like ďbest lubeĒ, ďcampy vs shimanoĒ or ďconti vs vittoria. Those are usually popcorn worthy.
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Old 08-02-20, 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnDThompson View Post
Some bike shops have "test saddles" you can use to help decide which saddle works best. You put a nominal deposit down, install the test saddle on your bike, ride for some arbitrary period (days, weeks, whatever the shop can agree to), and get your deposit back (or apply it to a new saddle) when you return the test saddle.
Gee, I don't know if I'd want to ride a saddle after somebody put a deposit on it. Ewwwww.....
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Old 08-02-20, 04:43 PM
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The attempt at humor when it works ...makes one look good. But, when it doesn't work...
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Old 08-02-20, 06:52 PM
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I'll take a stab at the great saddle dilemma. Narrow down what saddle would work for you. Find out if you like a short-nose or long-nose saddle. Curvey or flat, cut out, no cut out. Go to your local Specialized dealer and get your sit bones measured. Find a saddle that is at least 20mm wider than your sit bones.
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Old 08-03-20, 04:04 AM
  #13  
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Saddles - good advice given so far: find a local bike shop that will let you test ride saddles and try them out. A bike shop may also have some saddle manufacturer test system that will give you an idea of size and shape.

Disc pads: short answer is when the pads reach 1mm in thickness, time to replace. That is a bit thinner than a US dime, or (legend has it) 3 business cards.

On anything bike maintenance-wise, you can do an internet search on the term and add Park Tool -they have very good videos explaining stuff. I find that is easier than finding old threads on the online forums.
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Old 08-03-20, 05:52 AM
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Saddles have characteristics, as j@Sojodave pointed out above. Learn the attributes of saddles that work for you, and buy only "in family" of those sorts of saddles. For me (for a racing position or for MTB):

1) Narrow
2) Flat fore and aft, not scooped
3) Flat port to starboard, not rounded
4) Firm beneath, and minimally padded
5) Under 200 grams

For a utility/touring position, then add:

1) A bit wider, think Brooks Team Pro
2) Leather, with laced side skirts
3) Weight is not a consideration

Last edited by Phil_gretz; 08-03-20 at 11:40 AM.
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Old 08-03-20, 07:13 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by daveton View Post
Mostly a curiosity question. When buying a new saddle how would you know if itís the right fit?Weather itís comfortable? Right saddle for the riding you do? The saddle that came with my bike is working out fine. I just thought Iíd throw out the question. Also how will I know when I need to replace the pads on my disc breaks?
The type of saddle you choose depends on what type of bike you're riding and your riding position. Is your riding position aggressive and aero, is it neutral or is it more upright ??...once you have the right saddle for your bike and riding style, then you need to adjust it correctly.
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Old 08-04-20, 11:36 AM
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Saddle fiiting:

1) On line research and reviews.
2) Buy one on line, ride with it and hope it won't cut you in half.
3) Buy one from a good LBS which will provide a saddle fit service, ride with it and still hope it won't cut you in half.
4) Already have a well fitted saddle and make sure your next saddle is 'like for like' or that the lenght, width, shape (waved, flat, cutout etc) are as near as damn it.
5) Make sure your cycle shorts padding is up to scratch...the best fitting saddle in the world can't compensate for poor designed chamois padding (like riding 6 hours in bibs designed for 2-3hrs of butt pressure...).
6) Years of riding...sometimes you just know what will work for you just by looking at it...like some kind of Jedi Saddle Master...
7) Impulse buying a saddle because it's the lightest, most technically advanced perch...ever...and it will make your bike look 'way cool'...NO, just no...

Disk pad replacement:

Parktool recommend changing disk pads at 1mm and less of pad material...the thickness of three business cards apparently
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Old 08-04-20, 04:04 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Reflector Guy View Post
Not only that, I'm not even sure why he mentioned the weather.
and he already knows his discs are broken.......LOL

Seriously, as previously stated, take the BRAKE pads out and have a look at them.

Last edited by avmech; 08-04-20 at 04:13 PM.
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Old 08-05-20, 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Bob the Mech View Post
Saddle fiiting:

1) On line research and reviews.
2) Buy one on line, ride with it and hope it won't cut you in half.
3) Buy one from a good LBS which will provide a saddle fit service, ride with it and still hope it won't cut you in half.
4) Already have a well fitted saddle and make sure your next saddle is 'like for like' or that the lenght, width, shape (waved, flat, cutout etc) are as near as damn it.
5) Make sure your cycle shorts padding is up to scratch...the best fitting saddle in the world can't compensate for poor designed chamois padding (like riding 6 hours in bibs designed for 2-3hrs of butt pressure...).
6) Years of riding...sometimes you just know what will work for you just by looking at it...like some kind of Jedi Saddle Master...
7) Impulse buying a saddle because it's the lightest, most technically advanced perch...ever...and it will make your bike look 'way cool'...NO, just no...

Disk pad replacement:

Parktool recommend changing disk pads at 1mm and less of pad material...the thickness of three business cards apparently
I ride without special bike shorts quite often, 50 miles or so days on tour without issue. How do you explain that? Oh... yeah, proper seat height, reach, etc.
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Old 08-05-20, 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Hison View Post
My old saddle's already scratched, is there any way to save it?
No. Throw it out. It will never be the same. You will feel the scratch. The only potential you have to not feel the scratch is if "your cycle shorts padding is up to scratch..." as per Bob.
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Old 08-05-20, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Hison View Post
My old saddle's already scratched, is there any way to save it?
gaffers tape... Better than duct tape.

Vinyl upholstery patching goo @ auto parts stores..
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Old 08-05-20, 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by phughes View Post
I ride without special bike shorts quite often, 50 miles or so days on tour without issue. How do you explain that? Oh... yeah, proper seat height, reach, etc.
Ok...calm down fella Each to their own sunshine. Advice, take it or leave it...no skin off my padded butt.
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Old 08-05-20, 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Bob the Mech View Post
Ok...calm down fella Each to their own sunshine. Advice, take it or leave it...no skin off my padded butt.
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Old 08-07-20, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by GlennR View Post
Test ride and bring your buttocks
Are you saying this is one time you can trust an as*hole?
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Old 08-07-20, 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Mojo31 View Post
Are you saying this is one time you can trust an as*hole?
Not the hole so make sure the saddle is on and you don't sit on the seat post.
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Old 08-07-20, 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by daveton View Post
Mostly a curiosity question. When buying a new saddle how would you know if itís the right fit?Weather itís comfortable? Right saddle for the riding you do? The saddle that came with my bike is working out fine. I just thought Iíd throw out the question. Also how will I know when I need to replace the pads on my disc breaks?
Saddles are extremely specific to the rider. You might have to go through a dozen to discover one you can ride with. So you should buy them off of your local Craigslist as cheaply as you could get them. Usually you can get away with a Prologo Q that rides well enough that you can compare other saddles to it. The older generation saddles simply do not ride well.

As for your disk brakes - you look down in between the disk and the shoe. You can see how much material is left. If not you may have to brush out the dirt to see. If they are Shimano they are easy to remove and inspect. And you should always keep a spare set f brake shoes around all of the time. Also keep track of the wear on the disk. While on road bikes you generally don't have a problem. On anything ridden off road you can get debris on the shoes that can cut almost through the disk pretty rapidly.
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