tangerineowl

Only just read your post, so too late. However I recently read about the old yellow? Giant ATX 800? in the steel version. That frame was supposed to weigh around 1500gm which is pretty light for a rigid. Came with a steel fork also I think. Perhaps swap that out for a carbon.

Agree with the Rat Trap Pass tyre suggestion.

There were also a small number of nicer riding scandium frames back then which were pretty light.

Brian44t

Project Update - I got the 850 setup close to how I want it with the new tires, chain and handle bars. I removed the front derailleur and kept the 48 tooth sprocket - I am now wondering if 38 would be a better choice. But, it wants to hop out of the higher gears when I am pedalling so I am not sure if this is an adjustment or if the freewheel is not worn out. I have not gotten the brakes all the way adjusted yet but I need to change the cables first.

Size wise, this is the smallest feeling bike I have and it should be good if I hit some wet leaves or even ice and need to flat track a bit.

Korina

Nice bike! I'm sure that someday your skills will advance enough that you'll be able to handle a 3x.

roccobike

For $30, you did great. An old Trek rigid for, MTB would have been high my list for your needs so I really like your choice. It's a personal thing, but I always leave the FD and a triple crank on my old MTBs. I do have a tip for you to make that bike look better. The paint is pretty nice but you might want to touch it up. Here's how I do my bikes and how I'd do yours. I'd buy a can of white spray paint and a couple very thin, fine paint brushes like small artist brushes. Cheap ones are good for this. You might want to have a can of Goof Off handy. Finally you'll need a clean food can like a soup can. Shake the can of spray and spray it into the can until you have enough build up on the bottom to dip the brush into it. Using the brush, carefully touch up the scratches. If it's a mark in the paint, use the Goof Off to remove the mark instead of touching it up. That white is easy to touch up and will look really great when you get done.

Clyde1820

Nice-looking Trek 850, there. Not bad for $30, plus a couple of parts.


Here's a link to gear-calculator.com that can show what a comparison between the 48T and 38T chainrings and the 7spd 14-32T cassette looks like, in terms of gear-inches: click. (Yes, this link shows a 2x chainring setup, which you don't have, but it allows you to easily see the comparison between the 48T and 38T in one place.

You can play with the little icons representing the sprockets and rings in question, dragging them around to match your exact setup. That'll give you an idea of the min/max gear-inches (difficulty) the gearing would represent, along with the MPH speed such gearing would give you. On the 7spd setup you've got, note that changing from 48T to 38T for your sole chainring would alter the min-max speed ... particularly, the max speed would drop to under 17mph (if that matters to you).

For comparison, here's my own (2x11spd w/ 34/24T chainrings and 11-46T cassette): click.

Brian44t

Not sure what you mean by that? I have several other bikes that are 3x but it is not necessary for what I intend this bike for and it seems to me simple is best.

Korina

It was a joke. 1x is so fashionable right now, and the joke is that it’s because not everyone has the coordination to deal with a front derailleur. Really it’s that people will go through all kinds of contortions to make something simpler.

tl;dr Never mind. 🙂

Tpsfoto

I just picked up a 2000 GT Avalanche 2.0 made in California....has Deore LX derailleurs and shifters, Avid disc brakes and Avid rim rear.....Paid $50.00. It was thick with grease, cleaned it and changed rear brake pads to Koolstop, changes chain and cassette Shimano HG 400, changed the stem to a short one for my reach and a new set of flat bars....runs great....serviced the Rock Shox Judy C......all in all about $125.00 into it.

Brian44t

I have the cantilever brakes working slightly better but they are still under performing with the Cool Stop pads. Is this style of brake just not as good as the modern style rim brakes?

It seems the freewheel needs to be replaced or serviced. It feels like it is actually slipping in some gears and feels like it pops out of gear at times also. I swapped out a different 7 speed wheel and it worked much better. I am not finding 13x30 freewheels on Amazon, anyone have a suggestion?

Jax Rhapsody

Cantis are good brakes, but it depends on what type they are. When I had my old schwinn probe; I had long pulls on the front and short pulls on the rear. Despite what some will say on here, I ran linear pull(v-brake) levers and it was awesome. You just gotta fiddle with them and the adjuster on the lever. Cantis are some of my favorite brakes and I still think they're better than linear pulls.

Jax Rhapsody

I don't know many that would be lightwieght. Most are around 30-40 lbs. I think my High Sierra is the heaviest bike I own with the Nel Lusso being really close behind it , and it has alloy wheels and thermolite pedals.

As far as the mtb goes, I kick myself for not keeping the original rear wheel for the hub. I ditched the opti... elipsoid crank for a Specialized something crank. I had Deore thumbies from my Lotus Pegasus, along with the Sun Race mtx-100 stem and bars. Some Origin8 threeway adjustable brake levers that were kickin around. Sealed BB. Rides good, feels firm.

But uhh... don't leave out the early 00s bikes either. I have a 800 sport s/t that wasn't bad, just as heavy, being hiten steel. A frame now, don't know what to do with it, since I believe the seatpost is fused to the frame. Was gonna try and sell it.

cjenrick

Make a fixie out of an old Cannodale. The derailleur hanger is gonna break, or is already dust anyway,, super light even with the gears, good handling frame geometry, Run 42-16 with 32 spoke lite rims and look out Justin Smith!

And there will be no invisible rust inside the tubes at least we hope not,

commo_soulja

I put on new Kool Stop pads on my canti brakes as the old pads were rock hard. The pads have to be adjusted correctly, really close to the rim and toed in. I can lock up either front or rear with just one finger on the brifters.

If you're using an old bike where you don't know the history, always best to use new drivetrain components - chainring, cassette and chain. And maybe the derailleur - springs can wear out especially if they're kept in a loaded position.

curbtender

I can't tell what brake levers you are running, but if someone had changed them to linear/long pull, it will take more effort to apply the brakes.

Brian44t

@curbtender - I will try to get a pic of the brake levers. I will like to replace them as they are shabby and where they clamp on to the bar is too wide and takes up space my shifter needs.

The brakes are working better with some careful adjustment as I get them figured out but have a ways to go.

I have been buying parts bikes for the wheels. The first one, a ladies Schwinn Frontier was grabbed by my wife, and rightly so as it is way too nice to be parted out. Yesterday I bought a Raleigh USA MTB with good wheels which I have swapped the tires on to and they work great on the 850. The Raleigh frame needs some parts but it might be a future project.

I still may be adjusting front sprocket size and replacing the bottom bracket. 48T right now but i think 44T might be best for what I am going to do. I may re-test my 38T that I have on hand to see what I think.


The brake levers

brightsideofit 

How is the 850 coming along?

dunkleosteus

Finished it! I posted it here Show Your Vintage MTB Drop Bar Conversions

thehammerdog

i can sell u mine.
1996ish gary fisher wahoo.
great old school.

Brian44t

@thehammerdog - You are quoting the first post of a long thread. I have found, bought and sold my project. Someone wanted it more than me when it was done. I appreciate the offer but your bike is probably 1200 miles away.