How to shop for light weight bikes ?
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Given OP's position on bike weight "Unless you are a professional or amateur racer..... Ride as heavy a bike as you can ! You will get a better workout, You will save money as they are cheaper and more rugged requiring less repair, and your crashes will occur at slower speeds...." he might tell the "friend" to HTFU
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Why don't you weigh both yours and hers?
Also, as for things "working", that alone does not necessarily equal "good quality". Maybe cones are too tight (if it has them), maybe there is some other drag somewhere in the system, making it harder to use. Maybe her tyres are underinflated, or maybe something completely different.
But as for the dead weight, at least try to weigh yours and compare it to hers. It would give you a good idea about relative weights. Try her bike even if it doesn't fit to see if you can feel resistance. Try lifting it in and out of her car, to see if you can tell a difference.
I think the following needs to be preserved:
Also, as for things "working", that alone does not necessarily equal "good quality". Maybe cones are too tight (if it has them), maybe there is some other drag somewhere in the system, making it harder to use. Maybe her tyres are underinflated, or maybe something completely different.
But as for the dead weight, at least try to weigh yours and compare it to hers. It would give you a good idea about relative weights. Try her bike even if it doesn't fit to see if you can feel resistance. Try lifting it in and out of her car, to see if you can tell a difference.
I think the following needs to be preserved:
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her steel tube hybred (has brand name but i forgot) with twist grip shifters and seemingly pretty good set of components ( because everything works well ) is noticeably heavier than my Bianchi Avenue with trigger shifters on flat handle bars which I think would be termed a mountain bike 30 years ago.
Typically for new bikes, more expensive bikes tend to be lighter than less expensive bikes. When you're looking at used bikes, you have to have an idea of where it was priced when it was new. In most cases, the components (rear derailleurs are easiest) will tell you whether it was a high- or low-end bike.
I don't know what you'd need to be welding for. Most components are mounted to the frame by way of bolts. You can update old bikes pretty easily. Wheels, derailleurs and shifters mount and work pretty much the way they have for the last 40 years or so. The question is Why? especially if this is a 'budget' build. Taking a 40-year old bike, and buying up all the components to bring it to 'modern' specs (say, the last 5-10 years) will more often than not, cost more than just buying a complete, used bike that's 5-10 years old, no wrenching required.
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any different than floor bathroom scales ? I was thinking of holding the bike and stepping on bathroom scales as the easiest method
of weighing bikes.
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I don't know what you'd need to be welding for. Most components are mounted to the frame by way of bolts. You can update old bikes pretty easily. Wheels, derailleurs and shifters mount and work pretty much the way they have for the last 40 years or so. The question is Why? especially if this is a 'budget' build. Taking a 40-year old bike, and buying up all the components to bring it to 'modern' specs (say, the last 5-10 years) will more often than not, cost more than just buying a complete, used bike that's 5-10 years old, no wrenching required.
In my opinion it is very unsafe (for certain kinds of riders ) to take a hand off the handlebars to reach way down to move a shift lever when a shift is needed.
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I agree 100 percent. I was just commenting on a very light bike that I ran across and converting to what could be "safely" used by a below average skilled rider.
In my opinion it is very unsafe (for certain kinds of riders ) to take a hand off the handlebars to reach way down to move a shift lever when a shift is needed.
In my opinion it is very unsafe (for certain kinds of riders ) to take a hand off the handlebars to reach way down to move a shift lever when a shift is needed.
Does she actually shift gears or is she like most casual riders in that she has found a gear that works for her and just leaves it in that gear? If she’s a normal casual pedaller, gears are extra weight and complexity.
A quick easy solution for her might be https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/...-bmx-bikes.htm
Last edited by hsuBM; 11-04-20 at 06:56 AM.
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I am not familiar with luggage scales. I assume you set the scales on the floor and lay the luggage on it and see the weight. Is that really
any different than floor bathroom scales ? I was thinking of holding the bike and stepping on bathroom scales as the easiest method
of weighing bikes.
any different than floor bathroom scales ? I was thinking of holding the bike and stepping on bathroom scales as the easiest method
of weighing bikes.
John
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I agree 100 percent. I was just commenting on a very light bike that I ran across and converting to what could be "safely" used by a below average skilled rider.
In my opinion it is very unsafe (for certain kinds of riders ) to take a hand off the handlebars to reach way down to move a shift lever when a shift is needed.
In my opinion it is very unsafe (for certain kinds of riders ) to take a hand off the handlebars to reach way down to move a shift lever when a shift is needed.
Starting with an old $150 bike, and adding $100 in parts (provided it needs nothing else, like a tires, a chain, or a saddle) puts you at $250, which will put you into the range of a lot of 2000's era bikes, which are already set up the way you're looking for, won't require as much work (if any) and will probably be lighter, to boot.
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How to shop for a light weight bike:
Its more fun and rewarding to shop for a new bike that has the newer technology. Light weight and all. Costly? Of course, but that's the way it goes.
When ordering (picking out) a new bike, regardless if its a road bike, or endurance, you can get it "as light as possible". You just need to know your dealer and how dealer can match up the components and framset to make it "lighter". Costly? Of course.
But is it worth it? Of course.
Its more fun and rewarding to shop for a new bike that has the newer technology. Light weight and all. Costly? Of course, but that's the way it goes.
When ordering (picking out) a new bike, regardless if its a road bike, or endurance, you can get it "as light as possible". You just need to know your dealer and how dealer can match up the components and framset to make it "lighter". Costly? Of course.
But is it worth it? Of course.
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Again, I question the cost value in 'converting' a vintage bike as a 'budget' build. Do you have a stash of parts (or access to one) or will you be buying what you think you need to do this conversion? The parts to convert a drop-bar 'Ten-speed' with downtube shifters to a flat-bar bike with shift levers on the bars will probably run $75-$100, although with the current situation, getting parts is kind of a crapshoot.
Starting with an old $150 bike, and adding $100 in parts (provided it needs nothing else, like a tires, a chain, or a saddle) puts you at $250, which will put you into the range of a lot of 2000's era bikes, which are already set up the way you're looking for, won't require as much work (if any) and will probably be lighter, to boot.
Starting with an old $150 bike, and adding $100 in parts (provided it needs nothing else, like a tires, a chain, or a saddle) puts you at $250, which will put you into the range of a lot of 2000's era bikes, which are already set up the way you're looking for, won't require as much work (if any) and will probably be lighter, to boot.
is not knowing which are lightweight for my buddy's girlfriend. Again, earlier i was just reminiscing about the only used very light bike that I ever recall running across.
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ask your Local Bike Shop for downtube shift cable stops. They’re $10-15 and bolt right on in place of downtube shifters so any of the other types of shifters can be used.
Does she actually shift gears or is she like most casual riders in that she has found a gear that works for her and just leaves it in that gear? If she’s a normal casual pedaller, gears are extra weight and complexity.
Does she actually shift gears or is she like most casual riders in that she has found a gear that works for her and just leaves it in that gear? If she’s a normal casual pedaller, gears are extra weight and complexity.
and sprockets and probably new rear wheel etc. I see, just keep everything in place and put new shifters on the handlebars and connect it all up.
Sounds like a great way to upgrade the old ten and twelve speed racers. About my buddy's girlfriend.... you know sometimes you see someone really
working at something really hard and you just want to help them out. I think what she has is a "Specialized" hybred about 20 years old and she is always working those
grip shifters like crazy. Not just a lazy sightseer. She might like a new bike but she loves the way the one she has works all except for loading and unloading.
and for what its worth I have gained a new found respect for grip shifters while watching her ride which I have never had a chance to get familiar with on any bike
I ever rode.
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Typically a $150 bike isn't going to be light, you get what you pay for.
Weigh her current bike.
Weigh her current bike.