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Cannondale Road Bike from 1990

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Cannondale Road Bike from 1990

Old 01-03-21, 11:55 AM
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Cannondale Road Bike from 1990

Could anyone help me in identifying this bike? Not surprisingly, the owner doesn't know one single thing about this Cannondale he is selling. He wants $350 CAD for it. Claims that it is a 26.5" frame. Does Cannondale even make anything in this size?
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Old 01-03-21, 12:25 PM
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You might look in the C&V appraisals sub-forum and also see if you can get the serial number. It looks like an old Crackandfail road bike I don't know enough about them to tell what model but we had one in recently that looked similar with those ugly dropouts. The rest of the frames look nice it was sad they phoned it in at the way back.
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Old 01-03-21, 12:50 PM
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Could be a 66cm size frame which was offered in some years in the Criterium Series. Frameset only in this size for some years, so components would be varying. Maybe painted similar to the Black Lightning.

Serial number could be on the chainstay or bottom bracket. # will help you decode size and year.
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Old 01-03-21, 01:05 PM
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If you pay $350 CAD for that thing, let me know. I've got a bridge in Brooklyn that I'm looking to sell.
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Old 01-03-21, 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Moisture View Post
$350 CAD
I've seen your GT and then your road thing. Whatever you're doing to find your bikes, stop doing it. Change things up.
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Old 01-03-21, 02:02 PM
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Back around 1985, I sold a very tall Cannondale to a very tall weightlifter who told me that all the (steel) bikes he'd owned rode like overcooked spaghetti. He came back for the 30-day tune-up and said, "You get any other big guys in here, you tell them to buy a Cannondale."
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Old 01-03-21, 02:12 PM
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https://vintagecannondale.com/year/1990/1990.pdf

https://vintagecannondale.com/
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Old 01-03-21, 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by DorkDisk View Post
I've seen your GT and then your road thing. Whatever you're doing to find your bikes, stop doing it. Change things up.
What do you mean? Change things up how?
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Old 01-03-21, 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Trakhak View Post
Back around 1985, I sold a very tall Cannondale to a very tall weightlifter who told me that all the (steel) bikes he'd owned rode like overcooked spaghetti. He came back for the 30-day tune-up and said, "You get any other big guys in here, you tell them to buy a Cannondale."
I've heard that cannondale uses notoriously thin tubing. Looking into one of their articles though , looks like they spent a meaningful amount of time butting the tubing in the right places.

How much do you have to weigh to make any good steel frame flex though..?
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Old 01-03-21, 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by veganbikes View Post
The rest of the frames look nice it was sad they phoned it in at the way back.
Not phoned in, Klein lawsuit. Cannondale won everything but the oval seat stays. Cannondale’s response was the cantilever shortened seat stays. It has been a long time since I read about the case.

Pretty interesting in that Gary Klein basically used oversized tubes developed in the 70’s, so he lost his patent infringement on the oversized tubes. However, as I recall, the oval seat stays was maintained as a Klein development that was copied by Cannondale. Not sure exactly when settled, I had read somewhere that Cannondale had to pay $5 per frame, but haven’t seen anything to corroborate that. I also read that Gary Klein had a penchant to file for patents/patent suits in the 90’s and Trek got tired of it. Haven’t read anything to corroborate that either, but by 1997 the cantilever dropouts were gone.

John
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Old 01-03-21, 05:05 PM
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Have him verify the frame size by actually measuring the distance between the top of the seat tube and the center of the crank in cm. That's the normal way to measure frame size on road bikes. The 1990 Cannondale catalog shows 63 cm as the largest frame. If you wish to verify the year it was made, an easy way is to look at the two letter date code (year/month) on the inside of the Shimano crank arms and decode it from the list shown here: Date of Manufacture of Bicycle Components can be used to date a bike: component dating. The letter "O" is the code for 1990. A-L represent the months. The cranks would have been made within months of the date the bike was made.
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Old 01-03-21, 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by VegasTriker View Post
. If you wish to verify the year it was made, an easy way is to look at the two letter date code (year/month) on the inside of the Shimano crank arms and decode it from the list shown here: Date of Manufacture of Bicycle Components can be used to date a bike: component dating. The letter "O" is the code for 1990. A-L represent the months. The cranks would have been made within months of the date the bike was made.
If they are the original cranks. 30 years is a long time and they easily may have been changed.
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Old 01-03-21, 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by 70sSanO View Post
Not phoned in, Klein lawsuit. Cannondale won everything but the oval seat stays. Cannondale’s response was the cantilever shortened seat stays. It has been a long time since I read about the case.

Pretty interesting in that Gary Klein basically used oversized tubes developed in the 70’s, so he lost his patent infringement on the oversized tubes. However, as I recall, the oval seat stays was maintained as a Klein development that was copied by Cannondale. Not sure exactly when settled, I had read somewhere that Cannondale had to pay $5 per frame, but haven’t seen anything to corroborate that. I also read that Gary Klein had a penchant to file for patents/patent suits in the 90’s and Trek got tired of it. Haven’t read anything to corroborate that either, but by 1997 the cantilever dropouts were gone.

John
Ahh ok makes sense. Though I always loved the Klein stuff always looked nice. My old Klein frame was a nice looker though it was a good sell as well.
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Old 01-03-21, 06:14 PM
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The parts on this bike are not original. Doesn't have the original suntour derailers or sugino cranks. Also a shame. Also, $350 is a bit high and he won't budge. He initially wanted $500 which is insane. I do like how the bike is aluminum just to keep things interesting versus my current chromoly/hi tensile mix. However, if it is indeed the 63cm size like I'm assuming, looks like the standover clearance will be too high. Im including another picture he took of the rear derailer. Anyone know anything about the Shimano 600 groupset?

it looks to be an SR600 black edition, according to the 1990's vintage cannondale article thing. I can't believe I had to give the seller info on the very bike he was trying to sell..



I cant make out what it says on the crank arm. All I know, is that its not original parts, and not worth $350.
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Old 01-03-21, 06:15 PM
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It says shimano E ... something. No idea.

What do you guys think?

In one ad he claimed 1987, when I texted him he said "all I know is that its a 1992.." Claimed it was a trade in.
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Old 01-03-21, 06:38 PM
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That's a good goddamn big frame! I would guess 64 or 66 cm.
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Old 01-03-21, 06:44 PM
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Those cranks and derailleur are shimano 600 ‘tri colour’ from the early 90s. Ultegra quality.

It’s a very good bike for a very tall person if it’s in good condition. I am 195cm and I think it would be a little too big for me. It is also very old and may have seen a hard life.
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Old 01-03-21, 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Wilfred Laurier View Post
Those cranks and derailleur are shimano 600 ‘tri colour’ from the early 90s. Ultegra quality.

It’s a very good bike for a very tall person if it’s in good condition. I am 195cm and I think it would be a little too big for me. It is also very old and may have seen a hard life.
So good parts? I don't think they are better than what originally came on the bike.

I am around 188cm. I currently ride a 64cm frame. Its got a short reach and top tube which is exactly what I want. I would prefer a taller stack but I am able to compensate by using a taller quill stem. However, I am within 2mm or so of full maxing out my standover clearance.

I am currently about 200lb, but I have long legs which results in me always feeling like I am leaning over the axle of every bike I try riding. My only option to feel comfortable is by opting for a very tall bike with a short top tube length (road bike) , converting to flat bars, and on top of that using a close reach stem. In the future I'm hoping I can find a bike with a similar standover height and top tube length, maybe a slightly shorter reach and as tall of a stack as I can possibly find if going the threadless stem route. My inseam is about 34.5 . Considering that you are taller than me, unless you have short legs, you should not have any issues fitting on a 66cm frame. My current bike(pictured below) is 63.5cm and definetly just about perfect in terms of fit.

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Old 01-03-21, 07:52 PM
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https://www.competitivecyclist.com/S...ulatorBike.jsp

https://www.competitivecyclist.com/d...l/road-fit.pdf


https://www.jensonusa.com/bike-fit-calculator

I guess the pickings are slim out where you are .... but you tend to buy some ..... interesting bikes.

I don't know anything about the prices out where you live .... but that sounds like an awful lot of money for a beat-up 30-year-old bike.

If you like buying old bikes ... go for it. if you need another bike and this is the one you want, go for it. If you need the old, tired parts for some reason, go for it.

if yo have a good, working bike which you enjoy riding ... save up for a Better bike, not another worn-out old bike.

It depends on what you want ... and also, what shape the C'dale is actually in. How's the headset? The BB, the wheel bearings? How worn are the parts generally?
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Old 01-03-21, 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Maelochs View Post
https://www.competitivecyclist.com/S...ulatorBike.jsp

https://www.competitivecyclist.com/d...l/road-fit.pdf

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1kaH7g7YVvI

https://www.jensonusa.com/bike-fit-calculator

I guess the pickings are slim out where you are .... but you tend to buy some ..... interesting bikes.

I don't know anything about the prices out where you live .... but that sounds like an awful lot of money for a beat-up 30-year-old bike.

If you like buying old bikes ... go for it. if you need another bike and this is the one you want, go for it. If you need the old, tired parts for some reason, go for it.

if yo have a good, working bike which you enjoy riding ... save up for a Better bike, not another worn-out old bike.

It depends on what you want ... and also, what shape the C'dale is actually in. How's the headset? The BB, the wheel bearings? How worn are the parts generally?
True... choices definetly aren't too generous on the local classified at this time if the year. Still very happy with my norco but I'm just looking around to see if I find an interesting drop bar bike to add to the fleet. I like this one because it's newer and unique compared to the other old school offerings with its aluminum frame. But, I told the guy 250 is the max I'd go and even that is generous.

I haven't seen the bike and have no idea how things are looking inside either way but she doesn't look to have been ridden all that much just from looking at it. Especially not compared to my Monterey which was in sorry shape despite having so much more life left in her. The parts look to be recently replaced and in fair condition.

I think I'll take your advice on waiting until the right bike pops up. But i have to admit this cannondale is tempting me with the geomtery of that aluminum frame.

Everyone is asking insane prices on the classifieds for their crappy old worn out road bikes.
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Old 01-03-21, 11:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Moisture View Post
So good parts? I don't think they are better than what originally came on the bike.

I am around 188cm. I currently ride a 64cm frame. Its got a short reach and top tube which is exactly what I want. I would prefer a taller stack but I am able to compensate by using a taller quill stem. However, I am within 2mm or so of full maxing out my standover clearance.

I am currently about 200lb, but I have long legs which results in me always feeling like I am leaning over the axle of every bike I try riding. My only option to feel comfortable is by opting for a very tall bike with a short top tube length (road bike) , converting to flat bars, and on top of that using a close reach stem. In the future I'm hoping I can find a bike with a similar standover height and top tube length, maybe a slightly shorter reach and as tall of a stack as I can possibly find if going the threadless stem route. My inseam is about 34.5 . Considering that you are taller than me, unless you have short legs, you should not have any issues fitting on a 66cm frame. My current bike(pictured below) is 63.5cm and definetly just about perfect in terms of fit.

The 600 components were likely the parts that came on the bike. Someone posted links to vintage Cannondale catalogues above and the top-tier of their ‘Criterium’ series was equipped with 600. I don’t know what parts you thought it came with, but 600 is likely superior.

But the bike is also too big for you.
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Old 01-04-21, 07:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Moisture View Post
So good parts? I don't think they are better than what originally came on the bike.
What drivetrain for sure came on the bike and why is 600 not as nice or nicer?
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Old 01-04-21, 09:27 AM
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I have a 1983 Cannondale in Extra-Huge---came with a rear derailleur which Cannondale only used for a year because it was the smoothest-shifting and least reliable ever made. Had Sugino half-step triple rings as I recall. I replaced the derailleur when it broke ... and when the replacement broke again, I went with Shimano.

The Shimano stuff is easily replaceable. Not better or worse necessarily .... but preferable for me. It looks like you have 700c wheels and 130mm dropouts .... 1990 model should---so whatever is on there can be replaced easily if ti breaks .... but if it is old and beat up, why buy the bike? A $250 bike needing $250 in repair (tires/cables/derailleur at least) is no bargain unless it is a $2000 bike.

If the running gear is sound and sturdy---and I'd expect DT friction shifters and old Shimano to be pretty much bulletproof--then whatever the bike originally had is irrelevant. What the bike has now will work.

The real concern is the size. That is a fairly gigantic frame. Even at 6'2" it might be too big, depending on your proportions and flexibility.

Have you done extensive test-riding?
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Old 01-04-21, 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Maelochs View Post
I have a 1983 Cannondale in Extra-Huge---came with a rear derailleur which Cannondale only used for a year because it was the smoothest-shifting and least reliable ever made. Had Sugino half-step triple rings as I recall. I replaced the derailleur when it broke ... and when the replacement broke again, I went with Shimano.

The Shimano stuff is easily replaceable. Not better or worse necessarily .... but preferable for me. It looks like you have 700c wheels and 130mm dropouts .... 1990 model should---so whatever is on there can be replaced easily if ti breaks .... but if it is old and beat up, why buy the bike? A $250 bike needing $250 in repair (tires/cables/derailleur at least) is no bargain unless it is a $2000 bike.

If the running gear is sound and sturdy---and I'd expect DT friction shifters and old Shimano to be pretty much bulletproof--then whatever the bike originally had is irrelevant. What the bike has now will work.

The real concern is the size. That is a fairly gigantic frame. Even at 6'2" it might be too big, depending on your proportions and flexibility.

Have you done extensive test-riding?
Where would you suggest I try to do some test rides? I found a 61cm GT Grade at my local bike shop which fit me well, but I couldn't test ride it because it was dirty outside. I will have to come back sometime and take it out just for fun.
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Old 01-04-21, 11:05 AM
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I suggest you take test rides wherever you can ... or not. Really, come on .... if you ask about some bike component with which I happen to be familiar, I will try to help, but ... where to test-ride? On the Bike!!!

I don't know where you live, nor do I want to. I trust you can figure out where to ride .... and if you want to buy a bike without riding, at least put it in a stand or something and check it out ... shifting, brakes, wheels, BB, headset .... shake, rattle, and roll.

Test-ride it wherever you can. Maybe there is at least a cleared parking lot around? (Assuming you are in a snow-zone .... )

If not ... do what you can or do what you want.

Sorry if I seem a bit testy ... but hey, I could have told you to ship the bike to Hawaii and test it there.
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