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Issues: Class II rear hitch tray rack into class I receiver

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Issues: Class II rear hitch tray rack into class I receiver

Old 01-11-21, 10:23 AM
  #1  
jennc
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Issues: Class II rear hitch tray rack into class I receiver

Hi.

I have a 2015 VW Golf TDI and can only find class I undercarriage receivers to fit it (11/4" receiver). They state the torque limit is 200lbs. Before I decide on an undercarriage receiver of the two I can find that will fit my car (from Draw Tite), I want to ensure I can find a rear, hitch-mounted dual tray bike rack that will fit the class I receiver. So I find that there are several rear tray racks that will fit the class I 1.25" receiver, BUT either the receiver or bike manufacturer may install some sort of stop so you can't insert these class I tray racks into the class I receiver. I've reached out to Draw Tite to see if this is the case for either of the available receivers I am looking at. In the meantime, I have several questions I can't find answers to:

1) I have read it is easy enough to shave this stop off, but that you shouldn't so you don't kill kids when your rack snaps on the freeway from overloaded torque. How do I calculate my total torque weight to the receiver in addition to just the weight of the rack + bikes (which is def under the 200lbs. weight stated by the manufacturer)?

2) I am doing this all super on the cheap as a grad school student so will be looking for the cheapest receiver and rack I can find that is still safe and responsible to others. I am wondering if it is EVER safe to put a class II rack into a class I receiver, whether I have to shave off a stop or not. I know lots of people do it because it is possible, but aren't you running the risk of your rig falling off at some point?

Any suggestions besides recommending super spendy products are welcome, thanks!
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Old 01-11-21, 10:54 AM
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I think this is a really bad idea but...
https://www.etrailer.com/Hitch-Adapt...tch%20Adapters
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Old 01-11-21, 10:59 AM
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The people at etrailer.com really know their stuff. I would speak to them on the phone, explain your situation, see what they say. What’s possible may not be wise and we live in a litigious age. You won’t be a poor grad student forever.
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Old 01-11-21, 11:01 AM
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are you confusing tongue weight with torque weight?
Most hitches are rated as "tongue" weight which is he dead weight on the ball (ie how much the trailer weighs at the hitch). The only place I've seen "torque weight" being an issue is when using extended hitches.

Extended Hitch Calc
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Old 01-11-21, 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by jennc View Post
Hi.

I have a 2015 VW Golf TDI and can only find class I undercarriage receivers to fit it (11/4" receiver). They state the torque limit is 200lbs. Before I decide on an undercarriage receiver of the two I can find that will fit my car (from Draw Tite), I want to ensure I can find a rear, hitch-mounted dual tray bike rack that will fit the class I receiver. So I find that there are several rear tray racks that will fit the class I 1.25" receiver, BUT either the receiver or bike manufacturer may install some sort of stop so you can't insert these class I tray racks into the class I receiver. I've reached out to Draw Tite to see if this is the case for either of the available receivers I am looking at. In the meantime, I have several questions I can't find answers to:

1) I have read it is easy enough to shave this stop off, but that you shouldn't so you don't kill kids when your rack snaps on the freeway from overloaded torque. How do I calculate my total torque weight to the receiver in addition to just the weight of the rack + bikes (which is def under the 200lbs. weight stated by the manufacturer)?

2) I am doing this all super on the cheap as a grad school student so will be looking for the cheapest receiver and rack I can find that is still safe and responsible to others. I am wondering if it is EVER safe to put a class II rack into a class I receiver, whether I have to shave off a stop or not. I know lots of people do it because it is possible, but aren't you running the risk of your rig falling off at some point?

Any suggestions besides recommending super spendy products are welcome, thanks!
I have a 1 1/4 receiver and use a Thule tray rack. I have been using it on two different cars since 2012. It works great. Here are Thule's 1 1/4 inch racks: https://www.thule.com/en-us/bike-rack/hitch-bike-racks
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Old 01-11-21, 03:03 PM
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I guess I don’t understand what you’re asking. I bought a 1 1/4” receiver, and a 1 1/4” bike rack. It works.


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Old 01-11-21, 03:22 PM
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Any two bike tray rack sized for a 1 1/4" receiver will be within the class I tongue weight limits and will work with your hitch. I'm not sure what you mean by a "stop" to prevent insertion, classes I and II both use 1 1/4" receivers but differ in ball diameter . For reference I have a Mazda CX-5 with a factory receiver hitch and a Kuat Transfer 3 bike rack that works correctly with my cars 2000 lb max tow rating. My rack also includes a sleeve to work with a 2" receiver and if that is shipped installed on your rack you would have to remove it to use in a 1 1/4" receiver
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Old 01-11-21, 03:46 PM
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Thule and Yakima make racks that will fit both 1.25" and 2" receivers.

This is my Thule rack that fits both the 1.25 receiver 2" receivers. I have 2" receivers on my Subaru and my Truck. I got this particular rack because our touring bikes have fenders. It secures the bikes to the rack by clamping the top tube not the wheels.
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Old 01-11-21, 04:27 PM
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Get the 1.25 inch hitch if that's all you can find..then buy whatever bike rack that gets you what you need at the price you want to pay. If you need a 1.25 inch too 2 inch receiver adapter..get it. You may need the extension to get the rack away from your car anyway.

No worries on using a 1.25 to 2 inch adapter..zero..nada..not one...for a bike rack. You'll never get close to the 200# rating. The adapter isn't meant for towing..at least rational people wouldn't tow with it(beyond a super light kayak trailer or some such thing). .
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Old 01-12-21, 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Thomas15 View Post
I think this is a really bad idea but...
https://www.etrailer.com/Hitch-Adapt...tch%20Adapters
It's not. I used one of those for a number of years carrying 3 to 4 bikes at a time. Used it for both local runs and long distance drives. Never a problem.

I also use a 2" extender now with my Kuat Transfer 2 as that is the only way the rack will clear the spare on my Jeep. No problems whatsoever.

Just make sure the extender is securely fastened at each end.

Last edited by Mojo31; 01-12-21 at 11:49 AM.
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Old 01-12-21, 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Mojo31 View Post
It's not. I used one of those for a number of years carrying 3 to 4 bikes at a time. Used it for both local runs and long distance drives. Never a problem.

I also use a 2" extender now with my Kuat Transfer 2 as that is the only way the rack will clear the spare on my Jeep. No problems whatsoever.

Just make sure the extender is securely fastened at each end.
No, it's a really bad idea. The text on the extender clearly says that using it will HALVE the rated weight capacity. It was 200lbs, that drops is 100lbs, which is pretty trivial to exceed considering most racks weight 30-50lbs empty. Yes, it'll be fine with a carbon road bike or two, but toss a couple of hybrids or a single ebike and you'll easily exceed the limits.
Exceeded rated limits always works just fine, until it doesn't.
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Old 01-12-21, 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by gsa103 View Post
No, it's a really bad idea. The text on the extender clearly says that using it will HALVE the rated weight capacity. It was 200lbs, that drops is 100lbs, which is pretty trivial to exceed considering most racks weight 30-50lbs empty. Yes, it'll be fine with a carbon road bike or two, but toss a couple of hybrids or a single ebike and you'll easily exceed the limits.
Exceeded rated limits always works just fine, until it doesn't.
Never said he could ignore capacity ratings. But, she did not say what she was intending to carry other than her rack and bikes are less than 200 lbs.
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Old 01-12-21, 02:21 PM
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Here is a 2” hitch receiver that will fit your car:

https://torkliftcentral.com/2015-201...-golf-ecohitch

For bike racks, 2” racks have advantages over 1-1/4”. Get a 2” receiver if you can.

Avoid adapters or extenders if you can. They add more points of play and slop.
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Old 01-12-21, 02:43 PM
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Yup I'd recommend installing a class 3 hitch or using a 1upusa that does not utilize the hitch pin at all.
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Old 01-14-21, 03:11 PM
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Thank you!

I settled on a hitch and rack and wanted to say thank you to everyone who contributed information to my query here - much obliged!
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Old 01-14-21, 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by gsa103 View Post
No, it's a really bad idea. The text on the extender clearly says that using it will HALVE the rated weight capacity. It was 200lbs, that drops is 100lbs, which is pretty trivial to exceed considering most racks weight 30-50lbs empty. Yes, it'll be fine with a carbon road bike or two, but toss a couple of hybrids or a single ebike and you'll easily exceed the limits.
Exceeded rated limits always works just fine, until it doesn't.
towing rating in the US on cars is mostly BS anyway.
https://motoiq.com/project-mkvi-golf-tdi-lets-tow/
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Old 01-14-21, 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by jennc View Post
I settled on a hitch and rack and wanted to say thank you to everyone who contributed information to my query here - much obliged!
When you get it post pictures. Someone in the future may have the same questions.
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Old 01-14-21, 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by sarhog View Post
I guess I don’t understand what you’re asking. I bought a 1 1/4” receiver, and a 1 1/4” bike rack. It works.

My take on it is someone gave the OP some bad information, under the guise of being helpful.
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Old 01-14-21, 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by dedhed View Post
towing rating in the US on cars is mostly BS anyway.
https://motoiq.com/project-mkvi-golf-tdi-lets-tow/
until it comes a legal matter involving an insurance entity.
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Old 01-15-21, 04:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Troul View Post
until it comes a legal matter involving an insurance entity.
The article specifically mentions warranty issues.
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Old 01-15-21, 05:52 AM
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For what it is worth. The hitch on my focus has one of those stupid tabs on it so I drilled it out. I did it because I run a 1up rack and couldn't insert it as far as I would have liked, doesn't use a pin. Drilled that tab out and now I can slide the rack in so it is tight up against my bumper when folded up and more secure to boot. Think a lot of people in here are confused about the difference between a class 1 and 2 hitch.

"Class I and Class II hitches both have a 1-1/4 inch receiver opening. The difference is that a Class I hitch has a lower tongue weight rating, usually 200 pounds and a lower towing rating, usually 2,000 pounds. A Class II hitch usually has a tongue weight rating of 350 pounds and a towing rating of 3,500 pounds."

The tab is in there to prevent people from using class 2 required dohickies in class 1 rated receivers, class 2 things slide in further. I'm sure there are some out there but I don't know of any 1-1/4 bike rack where any of this matters.
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Old 01-21-21, 04:52 PM
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Bottom line is if you do not exceed the tongue weight of the hitch you are ok. Canker is correct, the tab on the draw bar is there so a class 2 drawbar in not put into a class 1 hitch. As long as you know that, and don't exceed the max rating you are good to go. For the record, I was one of three engineers that designed the hitches at Draw-Tite back in the late 80's. Every hitch we designed went through V-5 dynamic load testing. Assuming they still do this, there is a LOT of safety factor built into the hitch...
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Old 01-21-21, 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by dedhed View Post
The article specifically mentions warranty issues.
insurance is not the same as warranty in this matter.
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