Moisture

I have learned the hard way what riding around in gritty/wet conditions does to your lines and derailleurs in the absence of some fenders.

Since then, I make sure to regularly scrub down the pivot points and springs on both derailleurs as well as on my side-pull brakes .

I have some jig-a-loo oil laying around, silicone based stuff which i don't think is very ideal for bicycle application, at least not for your chain because it washes off very easily. I like it because it doesn't seem to attract must dirt and grit specifically to the areas you are trying to keep clean.

I carefully spray a few dabs of oil onto the small pivot points found on the corners of my derailleur body front and rear after scrubbing those areas down. I also try to spray a bit of oil into the lines. It makes the shifting remarkably smooth.

This is especially important for my old Dia-Compe side pull brakes, as I find that they are constantly in need of some re centering. Keeping the pivot points greased, clean and oiled helps with braking feel/effort tremendously.

Since then, i have had zero issues with my front derailleur failing to return to first gear properly due to grit stuck inside the spring, and shifting has been much more smooth and seamless.

As for the chain itself, I am planning to buy some bike specific lube, such as WD40 for bikes.

Litespud

I always squirt some lube into the derailleur and brake pivot points after I wash the bike, since this involves some indiscriminate squishing about with a soapy sponge and a hose rinse (because I’m a lazy git, this is every couple of months, at most). Components are going on 20 years and >60,000 miles and still perfect, so something’s going right. I would suggest something other than WD40, which is more volatile carrier solvent than lube, as a chain lube. There are any number of actual chain lubes out there, including dry lubes (cleaner, but best for dry climates), wet lubes (better for wetter climes), wax, homebrews combining engine oil and spirit, even plain ol’ 3-in-1

Moisture

there is actually a wd40 oil specially for bike chains. Not the generic canned stuff.

You suggest using wax for the chain? Could be a good idea. Repels water. Is mixing engine oil with spirit worth it? What about rubbing some petroleum on the chain?

berner

A bit of lube on pivot points is a good idea. About once a year, say 3000 miles, I remove the crank assembly for cleaning as grit accumulates there. About the same frequency, I spray lube the shifters with Slick 50. I think this helps as I always feel better afterwards.

cxwrench

OP...I know you're busy w/ tons of random posts from all the threads you've started but don't you think this thread should logically be in 'bicycle mechanics'? I realize that no one cares and just posts every damn thing in GD but think about it for a second...makes sense, right?

hillyman

Nope. If I took care of stuff I wouldn't have an excuse to buy a new bike part.

indyfabz

He wouldn’t get the attention he needs there.

Koyote

The forum also has a search function… Or Google would work pretty well, too.

That’s the only conclusion I can come to.

Bigbus

I live in a wet climate that necessitates the need for constant cleaning. Almost after every ride, especially in the winter. I put a drop of 3in1 on the brake and DR pivot points after washing and I wax the chain about every 100 miles-sooner if it starts making noise. The hubs, BB, and head all get serviced once a year during the dry week we might have during the summer. I have found waxing to be the best for my climate and I don't get oil stains on my clothes if I accidentally rub the chain. Of course it helps that the room where I do my chain waxing also has a pool table and a large screen TV so it's not a bother waiting for wax to melt. Just saying...

trailangel

With a bike similar to Moisture, I don't think any oiling is required.

Ghazmh

A few drip drops of Tri-Flow on the pivot points and move on. Is this for the 920????

shelbyfv

Good one

HD3andMe

Same cry for attention, different day.

cubewheels

I do it at the same time with the chain both rear and front derailleurs. Just lube and wipe.

And I have full fenders on my bike, they make a huge difference in keeping your drivetrain grit-free, even in dry conditions! They can considerably reduce drivetrain maintenance intervals. Like right now, I'm doing close to 500 km between lubes (wet lube) if riding conditions is completely dry.

indyfabz

That’s it? You need better lube.

GlennR

Ah.. a lube topic.

cubewheels

I ride in very gritty road conditions. Very often there's lots of dust blown over the roads by the wind and I also frequently ride in roads made incredibly dusty by trucks transporting sand and cement and some of these sections are relatively technical gravel, badly damaged road sections (broken apart by those heavy trucks) that never got fixed.

My bike gets this dirty in just couple days of riding in the same route. The dusty sections are often muddy even if the weather is dry (blocked drainage, construction, etc). Full fenders are utter necessity because what made those mud is often sewer water!. I've grown tired of cleaning the bike everytime, I just leave it be in its muddy glory!

indyfabz

Whatevs. Make sure you lube your pivot points.

cubewheels

I do, same time with the chain. Thanks to the long mudguard though, the RD incuding the lower jockey wheel doesn't take direct hit from the mud spray of the front wheel.

The drivetrain quickly became dirty when I didn't have full fenders even if never ridden over muddy or wet conditions so I keep them on all-year round.

UCantTouchThis

Move to California, you only have to lube the pivot points once a year. Which is good because over here, that is about all we can afford!

Gresp15C

If I've learned anything from lube threads, combining all of the answers into one general principle:

Do what works for you. If it doesn't work for you, try something else.

What works for me is "whatever was in the house when we moved in, plus whatever I'm trying to get rid of." So the specific brands don't matter. One is a light mineral oil in a bottle labelled ZOOM SPOUT OILER, Contains Highest Quality TURBINE OIL. It's redeeming feature is a refillable bottle. I think I filled it with motor oil. A refillable oiler means you no longer need to be brand conscious about your oil.

I'm trying to stop using oils in spray cans, since most of the stuff goes everywhere but where it's needed, and it's a waste. My garage floor doesn't need any more oil. Ski wax is bad enough.

rydabent

Pivot points are actually simple machines, levers actually. Since they are, yes they do need to be oiled. And I do recommend oil, not WD40 or some other high priced mouse milk!!! Just plain oil will do just fine.

Moisture

Whats a good durable oil that lasts through wet conditions you guys can recommend me? For either derailleurs/side pullers and chain

Koyote

For once, why don't you try the search function? Go read all of the lube threads before making another post.

See you in a hundred years.

Happy Feet

Mink oil.

keeps their coats shiny and you never hear them coming.