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90's GT 26" MTB to 28" road bike conversion

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90's GT 26" MTB to 28" road bike conversion

Old 04-11-21, 12:33 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by Moisture View Post
HTupolev is this why I feel like I can go faster on a 12 or even 13t final gear?
Probably not. If you're spinning downhill at 35mph, getting an extra half-watt of power is going to speed you up by like a one one-hundredth of a mph or thereabouts.

Actually, since cassettes with 11T small cogs just about always also include a 12T and/or 13T cog, I can't think of any obvious reason that you'd see any tangible downhill performance loss versus a cassette with a 12T or 13T small cog. It would only be a "problem" if you're pedaling it in situations where you'd be better off either switching into a lower gear or tucking and coasting.
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Old 04-11-21, 12:41 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by HTupolev View Post
Probably not. If you're spinning downhill at 35mph, getting an extra half-watt of power is going to speed you up by like a one one-hundredth of a mph or thereabouts.

Actually, since cassettes with 11T small cogs just about always also include a 12T and/or 13T cog, I can't think of any obvious reason that you'd see any tangible downhill performance loss versus a cassette with a 12T or 13T small cog. It would only be a "problem" if you're pedaling it in situations where you'd be better off either switching into a lower gear or tucking and coasting.
In that case, im almost never going down a hill steep enough to warrant the need for 11t. Id rather have closer ratio spacing in the rest of the cassette and stick to 13t for final cog.

My Nishiki has 14t for the final cog. This paired with 50t up front is enough for most of the hills ill find in my area. Id rather coast if i do spin out anyways, because I just don't feel safe going any faster.
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Old 07-21-21, 12:36 PM
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We'll see how it goes with the cassette and any mechanical efficiency issues. If indeed present, I should notice it with the 9t cog on the cassette.

The parts were ordered and should be here soon. The fork is still being polished and plated but should also be done soon. The wheels are finished, however:







The 35mm Schwalbe Kojak's expand to a nice 37mm on the 35mm rims. The size "CX" Tubolight inserts are too small for the 30mm IW rims and will not guaranty the bead stay in place. Apparently, size S is what I should have ordered but diameter specs are not mentioned on the website. Those will be ordered shortly.

Right now I am concerned about the rear brake adapter, which requires modification of the frame. When I have the rear brake adapter, I will mount everything, measure and drill/tap.
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Old 09-01-21, 01:58 PM
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The current 60mm stem is too long and I have ordered a 45mm along with a steerer tube extender which I believe will be necessary for a 20mm raise.

The shifting is impeccable but did not work with the 11 speed FD. Luckily I had a 3x10 speed FD laying around which to my surprise works flawlessly.

I ended up having to order Tubolight inserts size S because the "gravel" size was smaller than the rim inner-width.

The wheels are tubeless, hookless, with Tubolight inserts to keep the bead in place (safety measure) and right now they're at 2.5 bar front and 2.6 bar rear. They're soft and make for a very comfortable but yet sporty ride.

Other than the planned fine-tuning, the bike is ready to go and rides like a dream.





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Old 09-01-21, 03:44 PM
  #55  
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Wow!!! Looks awesome!
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Old 09-01-21, 04:01 PM
  #56  
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Dang, dude! That bike is so hot it burned a hole in my monitor!
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Old 09-01-21, 09:03 PM
  #57  
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I am really impressed with the final build.

Beautiful bike!

John
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Old 09-01-21, 09:09 PM
  #58  
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Nice!

What size rotors?

I like the bike. Iím glad you built something you like.
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Old 09-02-21, 09:39 AM
  #59  
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Looks very good! What size is this frame and how tall are you?

On my XL size frame Zaskar, I measured the reach to be roughly 480mm. This coincides strangely with a top tube length of only 595mm, which is average for modern drop bar bikes.

It was wise to get a shorter stem, because 480mm, which is long for an XL cross country bike even by today's standards, wouldn't work so well with the added reach of drop bars.

So my question is, tell us more how it performs the way you have it set up now, versus, how you expect it to perform stock (on what sort of terrain etc)
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Old 09-02-21, 09:40 AM
  #60  
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Also you might want to adjust the tilt on your saddle so that its more or less parallel with the ground, it will feel more comfortable.
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Old 09-03-21, 08:58 AM
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I see the setup wizard has arrived.
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Old 09-03-21, 06:25 PM
  #62  
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That's freakin' killer.

One quibble: when looking at your gear chart, it looks you've got a ton of duplicates. And, since 50x9 is a monster you-wouldn't-spin-it-out-drafting-a-semi-down-an-8%-grade-with-a-40-mph-tailwind gear, you might consider dropping from 50T to a 46 or lower for better spacing and fewer duplicates in the cruising range. The oddball cassette spacing, where the top half almost half-steps the bottom half, means that you're going to have duplicates somewhere no matter what rings you use, but it looks like your current setup puts a lot of them right in the middle.

Limiting ourselves to chainrings that we can actually buy, 42/24 looks pretty good if you can find a front derailleur that will work with a big ring that small and also get along with your shifter.

--Shannon

Last edited by ShannonM; 09-03-21 at 06:43 PM.
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Old 09-03-21, 08:39 PM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by ShannonM View Post
That's freakin' killer.

One quibble: when looking at your gear chart, it looks you've got a ton of duplicates. And, since 50x9 is a monster you-wouldn't-spin-it-out-drafting-a-semi-down-an-8%-grade-with-a-40-mph-tailwind gear, you might consider dropping from 50T to a 46 or lower for better spacing and fewer duplicates in the cruising range. The oddball cassette spacing, where the top half almost half-steps the bottom half, means that you're going to have duplicates somewhere no matter what rings you use, but it looks like your current setup puts a lot of them right in the middle.

Limiting ourselves to chainrings that we can actually buy, 42/24 looks pretty good if you can find a front derailleur that will work with a big ring that small and also get along with your shifter.

--Shannon
Good advice, to add to that, I would never choose a cassette with 9 or 11t over 12 or 13t final drive, unless using a very small outer chainring.
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Old 09-03-21, 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Moisture View Post
Good advice, to add to that, I would never choose a cassette with 9 or 11t over 12 or 13t final drive, unless using a very small outer chainring.
Maybe this is wrong. I thought 12t and less gives up a lot in efficiency.
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Old 09-03-21, 09:36 PM
  #65  
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Turned out very nice! I've done a couple of roadiefied MTBs, but didn't put that much work into them. Most '90s rigid fork MTBs can run 700c road wheels with road calipers no problemo, just need to find the right reach of brake. The BB is a little high, and I really felt it when I ran 38mm knobbies! Not too bad with 23mm tires though.


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Old 09-03-21, 10:17 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by SkinGriz View Post
Maybe this is wrong. I thought 12t and less gives up a lot in efficiency.
Most of the time, no.

couple reasons

- how often do you go down such a steep hill to need this many gear inches without worrying for your safety? How often do you need that gear?

if you find yourself using it often, you're probably riding a mountain bike on pavement, and shouldn't.

like I said, unless your front chainring is too small, you can get more power from a 12t or 13t final cog when paired to the correct chainring.

you should be spinning, not mashing. 11t is for mashing. Most of the time it is too high of a gear to get any efficiency out of it, even if you need to go as fast as possible. I certainly feel like I can go faster with a 12t because it lowers the gear inches just enough to allow you to focus on a fast spin which really increases the efficiency of your top speed. Its the other way around.

you gotta try and judge for yourself. Even if I had a cassette with a 13t as the top gear and I found myself wanting more,.I would rather have the better spacing in the part of the cassette I use most often.
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Old 09-03-21, 10:57 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by Moisture View Post
Most of the time, no.

couple reasons

- how often do you go down such a steep hill to need this many gear inches without worrying for your safety? How often do you need that gear?

if you find yourself using it often, you're probably riding a mountain bike on pavement, and shouldn't.

like I said, unless your front chainring is too small, you can get more power from a 12t or 13t final cog when paired to the correct chainring.

you should be spinning, not mashing. 11t is for mashing. Most of the time it is too high of a gear to get any efficiency out of it, even if you need to go as fast as possible. I certainly feel like I can go faster with a 12t because it lowers the gear inches just enough to allow you to focus on a fast spin which really increases the efficiency of your top speed. Its the other way around.

you gotta try and judge for yourself. Even if I had a cassette with a 13t as the top gear and I found myself wanting more,.I would rather have the better spacing in the part of the cassette I use most often.
Sorry. My meaning was the chain going around a smaller circle translating more of the pull into friction of the chain. So I thought that say a 12 or 13t rear cog was more efficient than a 10t.

Again I could be wrong and am welcome to thoughts on it.
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Old 09-03-21, 11:49 PM
  #68  
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Yes, smaller cogs / chainrings are less efficient than larger ones for the same gear ratio. The smaller radius requires the chain to fit around a tighter curve, which drives up the friction at every interface between the various parts of the chain. And there's a lot of interfaces, because chains are made up of a lot of very small parts.

But roller chains are really, really efficient. (If I'm remembering right from when I was in engineering school 20 years ago, they're one of, if not the most efficient ways to transfer mechanical energy across a linear gap.) So the actual difference in loss wouldn't likely amount to much.

The difference in wear rate, however, is not subtle. If we assume that the wear per revolution on any given tooth is the same, then tooth wear is a function of the number of teeth. So, if one of my main cruising gears is a 42x18, which it is, then I could get the same gear ratio with a 21x9. (Leave aside the fact that 21-tooth chainrings aren't a thing.) But the 21x9 would wear out twice as fast.

--Shannon
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Old 10-19-21, 03:57 AM
  #69  
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Figured I would revisit this thread after coming to a bit of a revelation with my thought process. My GT Zaskar LE is currently setup for my friend,.who is about 5'11 -



I decided to sell my Trek FX road bike as i wasn't using it enough which fortified by idea of wanting to eventually buy a gravel bike for secondary fast riding (i have an e bike for commuting and a carbon XC bike for trail riding.)

I tried giving this bike a quick ride and realized that I can build this bike up to be a great choice for what I need. Since you've already done something very similar, I figured you're the man to consult with.

The top tube length would be more like a drop bar size fit for me. I need drop bars for the neutral hand position. In the meantime I'm thinking of using a 120mm stem.

The drivetrain has been thrashed and abused and would need refreshing anyways. I want to use a 180mm crankset and then get some 26x1.9" gravel tires.

If I do decide to go drop bars one day, would you say it's worth it if I use a shorter stem?
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Old 10-19-21, 07:50 PM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by Moisture View Post
Figured I would revisit this thread after coming to a bit of a revelation with my thought process. My GT Zaskar LE is currently setup for my friend,.who is about 5'11 -



I decided to sell my Trek FX road bike as i wasn't using it enough which fortified by idea of wanting to eventually buy a gravel bike for secondary fast riding (i have an e bike for commuting and a carbon XC bike for trail riding.)

I tried giving this bike a quick ride and realized that I can build this bike up to be a great choice for what I need. Since you've already done something very similar, I figured you're the man to consult with.

The top tube length would be more like a drop bar size fit for me. I need drop bars for the neutral hand position. In the meantime I'm thinking of using a 120mm stem.

The drivetrain has been thrashed and abused and would need refreshing anyways. I want to use a 180mm crankset and then get some 26x1.9" gravel tires.

If I do decide to go drop bars one day, would you say it's worth it if I use a shorter stem?
What about bar ends? You get the neutral position without redoing your entire cockpit. May I ask why 180 cranks?
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Old 10-19-21, 09:09 PM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by Moisture View Post
Figured I would revisit this thread after coming to a bit of a revelation with my thought process. My GT Zaskar LE is currently setup for my friend,.who is about 5'11 -


That bike fits your friend a lot better than it ever fit you. No longer looks bizarre. Thanks!
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Old 10-20-21, 06:54 AM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by Korina View Post
What about bar ends? You get the neutral position without redoing your entire cockpit. May I ask why 180 cranks?
Typically I would stick with 185mm due to my inseam, but I don't think this bike is well suited to anything more than 182.5mm.

As for bar ends, I use those on my other bikes! They are great.

Originally Posted by shelbyfv View Post
That bike fits your friend a lot better than it ever fit you. No longer looks bizarre. Thanks!
Indeed! If I were to get a longer stem, some bar ends would work great. Id just have to raise the seat a bit more and that's about it.

if my friend rode the bike more often, I dont think I'd be considering to build it up for myself.
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Old 10-31-21, 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by SkinGriz View Post
What size rotors?
180 f/r

Originally Posted by Moisture View Post
What size is this frame and how tall are you? ...tell us more how it performs the way you have it set up now, versus, how you expect it to perform stock (on what sort of terrain etc)
175cm & I always loved the handling of this frame. I can't describe it too well. It handles exactly the same now, as a road bike, as it did then, as a rigid MTB.

Originally Posted by ShannonM View Post
...it looks you've got a ton of duplicates.
Thanks for the input. Calculating and picking the drivetrain components was the most difficult part of this built since it is really so special --> 26" road bike with MTB tire option. The gearing basically ended up being what would be considered "gravel."

I now realize that my actual gearing is not listed. I decided to go with 46/30, 9-32:


The gearing on top is the current build. Bottom is my 29er rigid MTB.

I have a lot of what are basically duplicates, but that doesn't bother me much as I am not too picky about spacing. I thought that I was, but ever since using an XT 1x12 system, I much more prefer the bigger spacing and better range. So in this build, I basically wanted enough range to allow me the flexibility to run either the 35mm slicks or 2.5" knobbies.

Originally Posted by LesterOfPuppets View Post
Turned out very nice! I've done a couple of roadiefied MTBs, but didn't put that much work into them. Most '90s rigid fork MTBs can run 700c road wheels with road calipers no problemo, just need to find the right reach of brake. The BB is a little high, and I really felt it when I ran 38mm knobbies! Not too bad with 23mm tires though.
Is that a Park-pre?

Originally Posted by Moisture View Post
would you say it's worth it if I use a shorter stem?
This depends on a lot. How big is the frame and how big are you?

I think the overall issue you're going to have if you do the same that I have done is the stack which will be too short with a short reach (short stem). I suggest getting a shorter stem, yes, but one that adds significantly to your stack height.

Currently I have a 35mm stem and although the reach is perfect, the stack is slightly too short. I think a 3cm rise would be optimal.

Good luck. You have a nice frame that would also work well with a disc conversion.

Last edited by pressed001; 10-31-21 at 02:30 PM.
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Old 10-31-21, 02:09 PM
  #74  
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Installed the new 35mm Paul Boxcar stem which results in a good reach but short stack. I have a steerer-tube extender which would give me extra stack, but don't want to add the 300 grams and I can live with it the way it is.

















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Old 10-31-21, 06:25 PM
  #75  
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I agree with you, the handling of this bike is excellent. The stiffness of the frame is still compliant and works particularly well in conjunction with the fast response of 26" wheels.

The stack is too low on this bike. The top tube is short (same as a drop bar designed bike in my size) , and the reach is average for an XL mountain bike. Its a bit of an awkward design. I'm 189cm and this bike is an XL. With the uncut steerer tube, mounting a stem with a positive rise as high as possible will work totally fine for me, but id need to use quite a long stem as I do with nearly all my bikes.

I'm going to do it, but I am having trouble finding a 180mm crankset to use for this bike.
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