2" hitch adapter reduction
 

Hey folks, I have a Toyota 4Runner that has a 2" hitch. Someone gave me a Yakima Holdup 1 1/4" bike rack. The owners manual states not to use an extension adapter for the rack. I am not certain why and think it is for litigious reasons than engineering. So here are 2 adapter, one extender and one not. I don't mind the non-extender version just wondering how difficult it is to match up 2 sets of holes? Plus the rack comes with a bolt to tighten to the hitch, would that work with both adapters?

extended:
​​​​​​https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....AC_SL1500_.jpg

Non-extended:
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....AC_SL1000_.jpg

I have no special knowledge of this setup, but suspect that you would have to put it together (with the adaptor) to see how it works.

I also suspect it would be fine, as long as you are not approaching the rack's maximum weight rating.

No guarantees, though.

The extension gives the loaded rack too much leverage, too much potential for "bouncy-bouncy" going down the road. It shouldn't be difficult to line up the bolt holes. I recommend the non-extension adapter.

I've used extensions with a motorcycle rack and have had a nearly 500 lb motorcycle on it (I was well below the rating for the truck, the hitch, and the extension, my extension is to bring it down 6" since trucks today are so dang tall). I think you'd be fine with either option. You are likely to get some slop with the extension but there are various devices to take care of that but the reducer/non-extended one is going to be simpler.

Also, if you go the reducer route you'll likely need a longer bolt for the rack.

Allen racks come with an adapter. It’s a little awkward but works with their stabilizer bolt well. The extender will work but I’d get two stabilizer bolts and keep the weight down.

With what ever one you choose, be sure to liberally apply antiseize paste to the outer surfaces of the adapter, it's hardware, & to refresh those areas & the hardware often (usually, during each oil change suffices) .

https://www.ramforum.com/styles/defa...ilies/wtf2.gif

living in the metal cancer state, metals that are affixed together tend to become one over a short period of time.

But then it wouldn't rattle....

it's not supposed to be rear mounted maracas.


Better yet, gorilla glue everything.... even the bicycles to the rack!!

This is interesting, seems that they are no longer sold. I will search for it at other locations. thanks

I need the 2" available at times for other pieces of equipment (racks and trailer). I don't need metal 'fusion'. I hate the loose rattle that often happens.
Thanks

I would just go with the inner sleeve and call it good.

The reducer goes on the inside of the receiver, there would be no need for a longer bolt.

HITCH PIN LENGTH WILL BE STANDARD--WHAT YOU USE ON ANY 2" RECEIVER. I use a keyed locking pin and locking cables on the bikes for security.

From my searching for a hitch that could tow AND also take a bike rack, you need to carefully read ALL the instructions, both for use and mounting, of the hitch, the rack, and any other components. All reputable hitch makers and bike rack makers have them posted online. If they do not, I would pass on that brand. Inside adapters may not be authorized by one or the other (hitch or rack makers) or both due to often being too short, which allows a certain amount of rock unless very tightly fitted. Such rocking could also expand the adapter making remove difficult or impossible even without considing rust and dirt. The longer the interior adapter, the better as it spreads out the support and limit rocking, but still may be prohibited. (NOTE: this is not illegal, it is just they they will not warrant the adverse effects or damage it causes.)

Some hitches will say in the mounting instruction that they are NOT for hitch mounted bike racks unless the upper mount of the rack uses a strap to support the rack from bouncing. This is common for low visibility hitches that hide behind the lower valence. For me this was the killer as an upper support strap would damage the spoiler over the hatch that includes the high mount 3rd brake light and rear washer nozzle. I also did not want to cut the valence.

My sister has also encountered issues with carrying her bike on a rack where some bridges will not permit exterior bike racks in high winds (Chesapeake Bay Bridge) along with trailers of roof pods or racks.

Rack movement can be considerably reduced by using an anti-rattle device. I use this one; https://www.hitchrider.com/nowobble.htm

I used the extended adapter on the back of my Wrangler for years with a Hollywood rack and over 60 pounds of recumbents on it. They would get some up and down motion, but that was from the rack itself.

Hitch reducer and anti-movement fixtures
 

I would say: no question that the "do not use an adapter" is generated by someone's risk management folks. I mean, if you have a 2" receiver and need to use a less than 2" shank--which a user will any time there's a less-than-towing requirement--what choice is there? It's not like you can get a swiss-army-knife attachment (like some of those multi-ball-size attachments) that let you select what you need. So there isn't much question in my mind that "foreseeable misuse" trumps their risk management OCD-ness.

However, it is certainly true that the hitch mounted bike racks are already unstable--you have the weight of the bikes concentrated on those long crossbars that run parallel to the bumper, and when they bounce they torque the hitch's shank--and lengthening the shank is going to make it more unstable still. There's a lot of movement there, and I suppose it could easily get out of control. You said you have a trailer, so you know how this can happen.

I also have one of the tray hitch-mount bike racks. I love it. But the thing moves all over the place. The guy I bought this from convinced me to take the anti-movement fixture, which I didn't want. Maybe I should use it, but I don't. I don't see that it will actually help that much.

All that said, I've never seen the non-extender reducer. It will certainly address the size mismatch between receiver and shank. And maybe it will dampen movement, too. But I'd worry about it getting stuck. The shanks and receives rust like anything, and I'd hate to have that thing stuck in the receiver.

Is there an option to get a smaller receiver mounted to the front of the vehicle? Then you could use both sizes, no prob.

Actually, I just notice the OP photo was of a Curt Hitches extension and Curt Hitches was the manufacturer that had the specific warning in the PDF of their instructions about using an upper tie strap for their hidden hitch when using a hitch mounted bike rack. It is not a bad thing, but keep that in mind when choosing hitches for bike racks on YOUR specific vehicle.

Curt makes great hitches designed for a specific vehicle and not the "universal-fit" (that often does not fit easily) of many makers.

Allen racks come with an adapter. Their bolt set up is extra but I like. The two piece adapter I glued together with silicone RTV.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...709b1e1a9.jpeg

biker128pedal
 

Your workbench looks just like mine!

Even down to the Moleskin-type notebook which has never been opened. I did create a workshop notebook, but only for my instrument-making, which mostly documents my abject failures.

Ha. That’s the top of the freezer with my stereo and broken tape deck. The notebook is a spare for recording my mileage in my commuter car. So far the one I use has lasted 10 years. :-)