alcjphil

That is a possibility. Just like a car with a manual transmission where you have to use the clutch as you change gears you have to ease up on pedal pressure as you shift, especially if you shift the front derailleur which is controlled by your left hand. You should not apply full pedal pressure until the chain has settled fully onto the sprocket you have shifted to. Since you have never used a bike with derailleur gearing before it may take a bit of practice learning to shift. All this is true only if there is no defect in your bike

MAK

I just read an article that said that a loose chain ring lock (the piece that holds your cassette together) can cause slipping if it's loose. Take the wheel off the bike. Hold the largest chain ring and with your other hand see if there is any movement when you hold and try to jiggle the smaller rings. It should feel like a solid piece with no give at all. If there is movement, you'll need a cassette tool (+/-$10.00) and a YouTube video on point or a quick bike shop adjustment.

The Dick's employee was likely not a trained mechanic who didn't know to check for necessary adjustments.

Good luck.

phughes

Ironic.

Kapusta

I am confused. Does this ONLY happen right after you shift?

2manybikes

Does this happen after shifting? It sounds like a front derailleur issue. One needs to soft pedal when shifting. You need to shift before you get to the hill. The front derailleur is more difficult to shift (needs more time soft pedaling) or almost impossible to shift when going up a hill. You shift the front derailleur long before the hill.

Iride01 

So why didn't you go back to the LBS mechanic and tell them it is still happening?

autonomy

There is too little information to go on to troubleshoot this over the web. OP, you didn't even say where the mis-shift happens, at the front or rear derailleur? If at the front, why are you trying to adjust the screw in the rear?
If this is an actual problem, there's very likely going to be a way to consistently replicate the issue; try to figure out the exact procedure and then describe in detail or make a video.

70sSanO

Since there is a chance this is a shifting technique issue, especially since the LBS mechanic rode it uphill without issue, I’d just ride it and enjoy.

It is important when going uphill that you plan your shifting. If you get caught in the wrong gear, try to get a couple strong strokes, back off and shift, before your legs are gone.

Depending on how far off you are, you might be able to stand up and stair step up the hill. You need to be in a little higher gear to do this since you’ll be turning the cranks so slowly.

Good luck and have fun.

John

Troul 

I'd hope many can still understand this in today's times.

Another example is like using the front brake on a bicycle. You just don't squeeze it will all your might initially. The brake needs to be modulated to the conditions. If the rider does not control the influence of strength applied, over the bars you go.

Mickmeister

I may still do that...but at this point I'm still trying to find out if there's really a problem or it's just my technique.

I tried to rig a setup to get a video but it proved to be easier said then done...I'll try to describe what I'm doing: I'll be cruising along a flat stretch, with the left (3 speed) shifter in 2nd gear and the right in one of the mid gears. As I'm about to get to a steep uphill stretch, I'll first shift the right shifter into a lower gear (first or second I think), then put the left shifter into first. I'm pedalling during this time, but not under load. Once I'm in the low gears I'll start pedalling like crazy for a little bit since I'm still on flat ground...then as soon as I hit the hill all seems normal.

This is where the nasty stuff sometimes happens. A few times there was a violent slippage of some sort, and grinding - and I was sure the chain had completely disengaged from the gears. But then I stopped and checked and all looked normal. Another time the chain had completely slipped off the front chainring.

But yesterday I looped around the parking lot and hit the uphill stretch eleven times in a row with no problems...that's why I'm wondering if it's a technique thing and I'm just getting better at it. I've always known enough not to shift under load, but now I'm wondering if in some of my earlier attempts I was putting it under load to soon AFTER shifting, and maybe the chain wasn't yet seated properly.

I should also mention that I've never had any problems on level ground or slight inclines.

70sSanO

You might not want to go into the small chainring and pedal like mad because it is too low and you end up wasting energy you’ll need later.

If you are in the middle chainring keep up a steady pace and as you start to go up maybe drop to the low chainring or go one cog lower in the rear. You want to try and match an increased load with a lower gear rather than spin yourself out until the gear matches the incline.

You’ll need to figure out the right pedaling cadence that will work, but as you ride, and climb more, you’ll get stronger and won’t need to spin as much to keep going.

The kiss of death is losing momentum on a climb.

John

2manybikes

Hold the shift lever over until the chain is completely on the next chainring or cog. Don't just tap the lever. It sounds like you are getting better with you technique.

2manybikes

Also shift the front rings first. It takes longer. It is easier to shift the back if you are close to the hill. Don't make a huge rear shift (many cogs), and then do the front. that alone could send the chain off the front.

Iride01 

Don't over think or over do the easing up on the pedaling pressure as you shift. It's not as much as you might think or others try to make it sound.

In fact, if you aren't a masher and instead always pedal a gear that take little effort to move you along, then you may not need to relax any pedal pressure as you shift at all.

If however you do pedal a ridiculously hard gear and go to shift, that's going to require some but not much momentary relaxing of the effort you are pedaling. technique.

Regardless of the above, I still tend to think your issue is an adjustment or something bent or out of whack issue.

alcjphil

This is a technique problem. You should not change both front and rear derailleurs to easier gears. Change the front derailleur first to the small ring. Turn the pedals a few revolutions to let the chain settle onto the small ring. You might then find the gear you are in to be too easy and have to change to a harder, not easier gear in back. If the hill steepens you can change the rear derailleur into easier and easier gears a step at a time. Modern rear setups can change the rear gears under some load, all you have to do is ease up for half a second as you shift. I do this all the time when I start up a hill, front change to the small ring and rear derailleur 2 or even 3 gears harder which puts me in a gear very close to what I was riding before. Then, as the hill steepens I use the rear derailleur to gradually accommodate the steepening grade and my slowing speed

Mickmeister

I've just been giving it a quick flick...I'll try the holding thing.

These are all good suggestions...I'm going to do some more practice runs then hopefully I'll know whether or not there's a mechanical issue. Unfortunately it's supposed to rain all weekend; I won't be able to get back on the bike until at least Monday afternoon.

70sSanO

Don’t fret over hold or quick tap stuff. People have been shifting rear (and front) derailleurs for decades with components that were far less precise and not as well made.

Before index shifting there were downtube, bar end, thumb shifters that needed to be used to downshift on steeper climbs than you are riding, sometimes with loaded touring bikes, and people managed. And a lot of it was pre-hyperglide/pre-ramps.

I’ve moved on from friction, but nothing felt better to hit those shifts seamlessly. Like shifting a manual transmission without using the clutch.

It is a learned technique. You can practice on flat ground and it does become second nature where all shifts have a very slight pause/back-off.

John

jbf

This ...

Bill Abbey

I'm pretty sure it is in the hub. The Freewheel is defective. take it back and get another (replacement). They do wear out, but I would guess they are not manufactured or else assembled correctly.

Mickmeister

So I've done a bunch more riding in the last few days and haven't been having this issue any more...at this point I'm pretty much convinced that the bike is okay and this was a technique issue. Again, this is the first riding I've been doing in fifty years, and my first time on a multi-gear bike - I think there's definitely some learning involved. I'm now thinking that the problems were due to putting the bike under load immediately after shifting...before the chain was fully seated in place. Lately I've been waiting a brief moment after the shift before powering up, then easing into it rather than pouring it on suddenly. Seems to be working.

70sSanO

It is not easy learning something new that is feel based after 50 year break.

Good for you to hang in there.

John

spelger

And now you can start having some fun.