gilpi

Just got this Specialized gifted to me (thanks to my son) it's a XL 58cm, I'm 6'2" 34" inseam and got it dialed in to where I feel comfortable as far as seat height and position. I'm seeing a lot of seat tube and I'm wondering if a lot of you prefer this over a larger frame?

Koyote

The frame has compact geometry, which means the top tube slops downward from front-to-back. That requires more seatpost extension for proper fit. As long as the "Minimum Insertion" mark on the seatpost is not exposed (i.e., above the clamp), you're fine.

By the way, I have roughly the same dimensions as you, and I ride the same size Specialized bike.

Iride01 

Sometimes a lot of seat post sticking up softens the road bumps... maybe.

If you like the position the bike puts you in, then that's all you need. Many modern bikes expose a lot of seat post. Or look at the Giant TCR advanced. That's not seat post, instead, they ran the seat tube way up past the stays.

Flatforkcrown

Looks normal to me. Or, new normal. Still looks off, but that’s because I prefer level top tubes, and seatpost extension that they provide.

Phil_gretz

^ the OP's frame has a tall head tube. Would this be characterized more as an endurance geometry? Either way, only the contact points matter. Saddle in relation to cranks, handlebars in relation to saddle. If it's comfy for you and handles okay, then it's right.

Moisture

Lots of exposed seatpost will make the ride less comfortable if the stem and handlebars are too low relative to your saddle position.

If that seat tube is 58cm, id reckon your seat is a bit too high. If you try experimenting with incrementally lower saddle positions, I'm sure you'd be able to get away with the same pedalling mechanics and power output at a lower centre of gravity
.

terrymorse 

That looks like a typical amount of seatpost for a compact frame. From the Specalized site:



Specialized Aethos Comp

How does the handlebar position feel?

Cougrrcj 

My 23"/57/58cm bikes :












Then again, I'm more long-of-torso and short-of-leg... AND I also have a 34-1/2" sleeve length -- so I need the fore-aft room more than the stand-over height...

We're all built physically different, so we need to 'fit' our bikes differently. That's why they make them in different frame sizes AND adjustability within those frame sizes!

And no, I don't have any of the more 'modern' sloped top-tube bikes... I don't have pics of my MTBs, but they are set up much the same with regards to seat height/bar height/reach. After all, I'm the same rider!


.

Charliekeet

OP said "got it dialed in to where I feel comfortable as far as seat height and position. "
So the question was just about how it looks, and it looks fine because it's a modern sloping top tube, compact frame, as others pointed out.

terrymorse 

OP didn't write, however, that the position of the bars was comfortable. Only the saddle height and position.

So the question of the bars' position remains unanswered.

PeteHski

I would agree except look how much stack height he's running! A smaller frame would put the bars too low based on his current setup. I also agree this has nothing to do with the OPs position, which looks quite normal.

PeteHski

The bar drop doesn't look excessive though. Looks pretty average to me. More exposed seatpost generally improves the ride comfort (more seatpost flex) although that's not a reason to raise it higher than what is optimum for fit. It could be too high of course. I'm guessing the OP's 34" inseam is trouser size rather than true inseam. For example I have a 33" trouser inseam, but my inseam measured to crotch for bike fit purposes is about an inch more. I'm 6'1" and also ride a 58 cm compact frame and my seatpost is just a little less exposed than the OPs. But I do run my seat slightly lower than the usual fit methods would suggest.

Cougrrcj 

I guess I was looking more at saddle height compared to handlebar height. All of my bikes have the saddle/bars at the same height or within 1/2" .

genejockey 

But also, unasked.

genejockey 

Meanwhile, I keep having to buy longer seatposts because the standard 180-200mm seatposts from the 1980s aren't long enough. Then again I have longish legs, longish arms, and I point my toes when I pedal.

Cougrrcj 

Note how long (not tall) the stem is on the 57cm Miyata! I < think > it is a 120mm. Note that the seat is mounted all the way back on the rail...I need length, front to back!!! Also, the rear light mounting band is hiding a half inch of the seatpost immediately above the frame. There is a handful of post showing above the seat clamp...

All of the other bikes are 23"/58cm frame. My preferred fit is for the top of the bars to be at the same height as the saddle top. The Fuji's bars have a deeper 'drop' than the others...

The light blue Univega's seatpost was cut waaaay short by a previous owner, so I had to source a longer one (and not the clunky through-bolt style!) Note there is no chain on the bike yet in this pic - the seat height has not been finalized yet....

The sand colored Univega is the pic as purchased with the old-clunky through-bolt Laprade seatpost and vinyl saddle. Both have since been replaced. I suppose I should post a post-refurb pic someday, but I'm holding off until I build up the new wheelset (Phil hubs, stainless spokes, Sun CR18 rims), and get the racks/panniers mounted.

genejockey 

For comparison....

58cm Ritchey Road Logic, 130mm stem.


Canyon Endurace in Large, 110mm stem.


Schwinn Circuit. 22"/56 cm.

These all have between 8.5 and 11cm of drop. Different bodies, different fits.

Bigbus

Which way?

gilpi

This has turned out a lot more interesting than I thought and I appreciate the replies. Some mentioned if the stem/handlebar feels low, at 66 yrs old perhaps flipping the stem for a more "comfortable" ride would be the wise thing to do but I'm used to always having the bars lower in relation to the seat. As for the seat height to the pedals, wearing cycling shoes my legs are almost stretched out with a slight angle at the knee in the low stroke. For the fore/aft, the seat is somewhere in middle position.

Moisture

More exposed seat post is a good thing for comfort, so long as its not too much. That could be dangerous. If your stack is sufficiently high or low for your needs/riding style, then this new approach towards frame geometry is a good thing. I've recently bought a 2012 Trek fx with... a sloping top tube and im very happy with the bike. The stack is a tad lower than what I would have preferred, but the uncut steerer tube gives me more than enough added stack but the extra exposed seat post and more agreeable standover clearance is most welcomed over my previous 63.5cm nishiki which gave me practically zero standover clearance. Im happy with this more modern approach in frame design such as the carefully butted aluminum tubes etc

Iride01 

I don't know if it's a mistake for you, so don't take offense that I used your reply as an example.

It was a mistake for me when I rode old vintage bike frames. Many way too big for my 5'-11" with 34.5" inseam. The saddle being so low to the top tube that I never could experience a comfortable aero position. So instead I then wanted a more upright position which created more weight on my butt for long rides and energy wasting drag on long rides.

Since getting a new bike that allows me to get lower than I ever could on the old style frames, I've found a new comfortable and more aero position for long rides. And as for others that claim they aren't limber enough to get aero..... well I never could touch my toes. Today I can't even bend over with legs straight and get my hands halfway down my shins. But I ride comfortably with a lot of drop.

genejockey 

I have a couple key observations I used to determine whether I've set up a bike right for me. Do my hands fall naturally onto the hoods? Can I ride comfortably in the drops, pedalling, for a couple miles? Can I spin at 95-105 and if feels natural? Can I sit up and take my hands off the bars without falling forward? Does the bike feel stable at all speeds? And the big one - Can I ride for at least 3 hours without pain in the knees, hands, lower back, etc, or numbness anywhere?

I guess really, the last one is the key - is it comfortable for hours? Do you WANT to ride? Or do you dread it? I surprised myself by being able to ride comfortably with about 2 more cm of drop than I was used to (the Schwinn posted above, compared to the Ritchey and Canyon), and it passed my acid test - the 56 mile Sunday ride - with flying colors.

Moisture

34.5 inseam at 5'11 is insane! I'm 6ft3, 34.45 ish inseam and this is already on the "leggy" side at 46%... inseam to torso ratio. Average is 45%. Youre at 48%. Could you explain more about your experience with frame fit and what you found to work best for you?

Iride01 

I do that all the time in the other sub-forum about fitting. It's my some 55 plus odd years of trial and error experiences not listening to others when I probably should have. And still is anecdotal at best.... but it works for me. However by going my own way, I at least know there are quite a few myths of frame fit that are touted as gospel by others.

PeteHski

These are good questions. I have a similar view. You can get away with a poor position for an hour or so, but 3+ hours in shows up any issues. Actually for me the 5 th hour is the acid test.