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One x drivetrain... Hoping I made the right decision

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One x drivetrain... Hoping I made the right decision

Old 06-18-21, 03:34 AM
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waxcrazy
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One x drivetrain... Hoping I made the right decision

I bought a Sirrus X5.0 with a 1x drivetrain a little bit back..I live in very hilly New England finding myself in the cross chain situation a lot for the lower gears. Just read a article on how the 1x drivetrain wears out much faster because of this...Has this been a issue for anyone or am I just worrying to worry? I'm hoping Specialized somehow accommodated for this with beefed up chainrings etc.
Thanks
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Old 06-18-21, 04:13 AM
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Two years ago I bought a Jamis Renegade with a 1x SRAM drivetrain, I love it. I use my road bike for most hilly rides, the Jamis is for gravel/trails and light touring. But had an extended period of using the Jamis for everything while a wheel was being rebuilt on my road bike. Not that many miles but I checked the chain and didn't see any big leap in wear, can't really tell anything on the cassette/chain ring.

There really isn't "cross chaining" on the 1x drivetrain, since the front chain ring is in the middle of the range. There was an article a while back in VeloNews where they tested chain efficiency between 1x and 2x and when the 2X chain line was always at optimum, it had a few watts of advantage which means less friction. The highest friction was the 1x in the highest gear/smallest cog on the back. That's kinda bad news for me - I went with a 38 tooth chainring, vs. a 40, because I wanted the better lower range for hills and rarely am pedaling at over 24mph. But, on good surfaces and with tail winds I'm often sitting in the small cog, so we'll see over time.
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Old 06-18-21, 05:05 AM
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Originally Posted by jpescatore View Post
There really isn't "cross chaining" on the 1x drivetrain, since the front chain ring is in the middle of the range.
Umm, no. You will be cross-chained more in a 1X setup than in a 2X set up. But it’s nothing to worry about. Just keep an eye on chain wear.
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Old 06-18-21, 05:22 AM
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Old 06-18-21, 05:35 AM
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Keep going!!!!!....You are making me feel better!!!!!
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Old 06-18-21, 05:37 AM
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It will wear more quickly than a 2 or 3x that is ridden with a more ideal chain line. Will it matter. Probably not one bit. I would expect you to get many thousands of miles out of it.
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Old 06-18-21, 05:39 AM
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I guess the whole thing that got me going is how the drivetrain does get progressively noisier in the last 3 or 4 lower gears and when I sight the chain you can see it is definitely angled.
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Old 06-18-21, 05:40 AM
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I'd worry about something else, jillions of people ride 1X. You might want to think about stocking up on a spare chain or two, shortages and all that.
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Old 06-18-21, 05:45 AM
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The noise could be something else. It could be that your shift cable has stretched and needs a slight adjustment. That will cause a bit of noise, sometimes only on a few gears.
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Old 06-18-21, 06:14 AM
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I wouldn't call it noisy...just a little different sounding....It has been doing it since day one..think it's just the nature of the beast?...
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Old 06-18-21, 06:17 AM
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Forgot to say the shifts are all crisp and never miss...wondering if it's just normal due to positioning vs well aligned chainline in middle cogs.
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Old 06-18-21, 06:24 AM
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Originally Posted by waxcrazy View Post
...or am I just worrying to worry?
Yes.
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Old 06-18-21, 06:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Koyote View Post
You will be cross-chained more in a 1X setup than in a 2X set up.
This is an incorrect statement.
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Old 06-18-21, 06:27 AM
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Originally Posted by waxcrazy View Post
I guess the whole thing that got me going is how the drivetrain does get progressively noisier in the last 3 or 4 lower gears and when I sight the chain you can see it is definitely angled.
You probably need to adjust the barrels. My Girlfriend has a Sirrus X 5.0 and it makes no noise at all.
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Old 06-18-21, 07:54 AM
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I have several 1x bikes. They’re quiet.

Are they as quiet as my Campy Chorus and Dura Ace road bikes? No but those are road bikes and a few notches up the component totem pole from my gravel and mountain.

As per wear, nothing that seems abnormal
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Old 06-18-21, 08:27 AM
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You'll probably coast more than those of us with a 52 or 53 tooth front.

As for wearing out faster? I don't know, the replacement cost of a chain is minimal. Same for a cassette and chainring. Over the lifetime of your riding that bike, they aren't going to amount to much extra.
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Old 06-18-21, 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Koyote View Post
Umm, no. You will be cross-chained more in a 1X setup than in a 2X set up. But it’s nothing to worry about. Just keep an eye on chain wear.
Originally Posted by Cpn_Dunsel View Post
Umm, no.

A 1x system has the chain ring positioned on the nominal chain line so it more closely lines up with the center of the cassette - like the middle ring on a 3x system. This reduces the lateral angle of the chain when on the largest or smallest rear sprocket compared to the classic cross-chained state.

The problem of cross-chaining on a 2x is the chain rubbing on the FD plates and/or on the inner side of the of the large chainring when in extreme positions. Noise = wear and annoyance. A 1x eliminates this factor and as such, there is by definition, no cross chaining.

Cross chaining with traditional rings will put the chain in the angular region where it ‘thinks’ you want to shift. On a 1x system a narrow wide ring is typically used, or a similar device, that meshes more completely with the whole chain link. Since it doesn’t have to worry about shifting, it’s only worried about retention, so it can ease the chain into a consistent position from a wide variety of angles.

A traditional ring is made to allow shifting, which means there are specially shaped teeth and protrusions that will pick up the chain and help lift it in to the next gear and this is why cross chaining is an issue with 2x (or 3x) and not a 1x.
Originally Posted by prj71 View Post
This is an incorrect statement.
I’m thinking of cross-chaining as a more extreme angle between the chainring and the chosen cog…Which is reduced by choosing the optimal chainring on a 2x setup. (And reduced still further by a 3x.) I’m certainly willing to concede an error, but I’m thinking that a 1x will often (not always, by any stretch) involve a more extreme angle — at the extreme ends of the cassette, obviously.

Regardless, if a 1x suited my terrain and preferences, I wouldn’t give any of this a second thought.
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Old 06-18-21, 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Paul Barnard View Post
The noise could be something else. It could be that your shift cable has stretched and needs a slight adjustment. That will cause a bit of noise, sometimes only on a few gears.
No, it won't stretch. And if it did the noise would be in every gear, not a 'few'. The derailleur would be out of adjustment the exact same amount in every gear. That's why whenever people bring their bike to the shop and say "It's shifting weird and/or making noise in these gears" I know the problem is either a bent hanger or more wear in some cogs than others.
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Old 06-18-21, 08:46 AM
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Old 06-18-21, 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by cxwrench View Post
No, it won't stretch. And if it did the noise would be in every gear, not a 'few'. The derailleur would be out of adjustment the exact same amount in every gear. That's why whenever people bring their bike to the shop and say "It's shifting weird and/or making noise in these gears" I know the problem is either a bent hanger or more wear in some cogs than others.
If cables don't stretch, there are a world of writers and bike mechs that need to be corrected in their use of the word. I have no idea what has caused it, but with nearly every bike I have had, I have had noise at one end and not the other that a barrel adjustment corrected. All of my bikes are likely an anomaly.
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Old 06-18-21, 10:02 AM
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Many people describe what actually happens (housing compression, ferrules becoming fully seated) as 'stretch' but the cable doesn't get any longer. If the hanger is aligned properly and the derailleur is straight explain to me how a cable 'stretching' could be more apparent in some gears than others AND how you could fix it by making the cable shorter. I'll wait.
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Old 06-18-21, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by cxwrench View Post
Many people describe what actually happens (housing compression, ferrules becoming fully seated) as 'stretch' but the cable doesn't get any longer. If the hanger is aligned properly and the derailleur is straight explain to me how a cable 'stretching' could be more apparent in some gears than others AND how you could fix it by making the cable shorter. I'll wait.
It has happened with nearly every bike I have owned, soon after buying or building it, that it started making noise in the smaller gears. The noise went away after taking up slack with the adjuster. In fact, if I knew how to post video, I could probably demonstrate it by putting a bike in my work stand, adjusting a little slop into the drive train and shifting up and down through the full range. I can't explain it, but it has darn sure been a fact of life for me with almost all of my probably 20 buys and builds.

Can you explain what the OP stands to lose by adjusting any slop out of the drive train?
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Old 06-18-21, 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by shelbyfv View Post
I'd worry about something else, jillions of people ride 1X. You might want to think about stocking up on a spare chain or two, shortages and all that.
i knew there were a lot of illions but i never heard of jillions.
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Old 06-18-21, 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Paul Barnard View Post
It has happened with nearly every bike I have owned, soon after buying or building it, that it started making noise in the smaller gears. The noise went away after taking up slack with the adjuster. In fact, if I knew how to post video, I could probably demonstrate it by putting a bike in my work stand, adjusting a little slop into the drive train and shifting up and down through the full range. I can't explain it, but it has darn sure been a fact of life for me with almost all of my probably 20 buys and builds.

Can you explain what the OP stands to lose by adjusting any slop out of the drive train?
Ok, 20 bikes...that might explain some things. Conservatively I've probably worked on 1,000 times that. What I'm saying (again) is that if everything is straight you can't be more out of adjustment in any one spot than any other. It's gonna be bad if it's out of adjustment and good if it's not. If the hanger is bent in towards the wheel (what would happen when you dropped the bike on the drive side) it could be ok in the small cogs and then get worse as you shift up to the big cogs. I would NOT be ok, get worse, then get ok again.
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Old 06-18-21, 05:19 PM
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