One x drivetrain... Hoping I made the right decision
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2021
Posts: 41
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 28 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 13 Times
in
8 Posts
One x drivetrain... Hoping I made the right decision
I bought a Sirrus X5.0 with a 1x drivetrain a little bit back..I live in very hilly New England finding myself in the cross chain situation a lot for the lower gears. Just read a article on how the 1x drivetrain wears out much faster because of this...Has this been a issue for anyone or am I just worrying to worry? I'm hoping Specialized somehow accommodated for this with beefed up chainrings etc.
Thanks
Thanks
#2
Senior Member
Two years ago I bought a Jamis Renegade with a 1x SRAM drivetrain, I love it. I use my road bike for most hilly rides, the Jamis is for gravel/trails and light touring. But had an extended period of using the Jamis for everything while a wheel was being rebuilt on my road bike. Not that many miles but I checked the chain and didn't see any big leap in wear, can't really tell anything on the cassette/chain ring.
There really isn't "cross chaining" on the 1x drivetrain, since the front chain ring is in the middle of the range. There was an article a while back in VeloNews where they tested chain efficiency between 1x and 2x and when the 2X chain line was always at optimum, it had a few watts of advantage which means less friction. The highest friction was the 1x in the highest gear/smallest cog on the back. That's kinda bad news for me - I went with a 38 tooth chainring, vs. a 40, because I wanted the better lower range for hills and rarely am pedaling at over 24mph. But, on good surfaces and with tail winds I'm often sitting in the small cog, so we'll see over time.
There really isn't "cross chaining" on the 1x drivetrain, since the front chain ring is in the middle of the range. There was an article a while back in VeloNews where they tested chain efficiency between 1x and 2x and when the 2X chain line was always at optimum, it had a few watts of advantage which means less friction. The highest friction was the 1x in the highest gear/smallest cog on the back. That's kinda bad news for me - I went with a 38 tooth chainring, vs. a 40, because I wanted the better lower range for hills and rarely am pedaling at over 24mph. But, on good surfaces and with tail winds I'm often sitting in the small cog, so we'll see over time.
Likes For jpescatore:
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 6,666
Mentioned: 35 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6052 Post(s)
Liked 9,164 Times
in
3,956 Posts
Likes For Koyote:
Likes For Cpn_Dunsel:
#6
For The Fun of It
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Louisissippi Coast
Posts: 5,595
Bikes: Lynskey GR300, Lynskey Backroad, Litespeed T6, Lynskey MT29, Burley Duet
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1966 Post(s)
Liked 1,370 Times
in
702 Posts
It will wear more quickly than a 2 or 3x that is ridden with a more ideal chain line. Will it matter. Probably not one bit. I would expect you to get many thousands of miles out of it.
#7
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2021
Posts: 41
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 28 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 13 Times
in
8 Posts
I guess the whole thing that got me going is how the drivetrain does get progressively noisier in the last 3 or 4 lower gears and when I sight the chain you can see it is definitely angled.
#8
Expired Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: TN
Posts: 10,306
Mentioned: 32 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3092 Post(s)
Liked 4,140 Times
in
2,091 Posts
I'd worry about something else, jillions of people ride 1X. You might want to think about stocking up on a spare chain or two, shortages and all that.
Likes For shelbyfv:
#9
For The Fun of It
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Louisissippi Coast
Posts: 5,595
Bikes: Lynskey GR300, Lynskey Backroad, Litespeed T6, Lynskey MT29, Burley Duet
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1966 Post(s)
Liked 1,370 Times
in
702 Posts
The noise could be something else. It could be that your shift cable has stretched and needs a slight adjustment. That will cause a bit of noise, sometimes only on a few gears.
Likes For Paul Barnard:
#13
Senior Member
#14
Senior Member
You probably need to adjust the barrels. My Girlfriend has a Sirrus X 5.0 and it makes no noise at all.
Likes For prj71:
#15
With a mighty wind
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 2,256
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 906 Post(s)
Liked 649 Times
in
383 Posts
I have several 1x bikes. They’re quiet.
Are they as quiet as my Campy Chorus and Dura Ace road bikes? No but those are road bikes and a few notches up the component totem pole from my gravel and mountain.
As per wear, nothing that seems abnormal
Are they as quiet as my Campy Chorus and Dura Ace road bikes? No but those are road bikes and a few notches up the component totem pole from my gravel and mountain.
As per wear, nothing that seems abnormal
#16
more daylight today!
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 12,476
Bikes: Tarmac Disc Comp Di2 - 2020
Mentioned: 43 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5113 Post(s)
Liked 3,607 Times
in
2,504 Posts
You'll probably coast more than those of us with a 52 or 53 tooth front.
As for wearing out faster? I don't know, the replacement cost of a chain is minimal. Same for a cassette and chainring. Over the lifetime of your riding that bike, they aren't going to amount to much extra.
As for wearing out faster? I don't know, the replacement cost of a chain is minimal. Same for a cassette and chainring. Over the lifetime of your riding that bike, they aren't going to amount to much extra.
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 6,666
Mentioned: 35 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6052 Post(s)
Liked 9,164 Times
in
3,956 Posts
Umm, no.
A 1x system has the chain ring positioned on the nominal chain line so it more closely lines up with the center of the cassette - like the middle ring on a 3x system. This reduces the lateral angle of the chain when on the largest or smallest rear sprocket compared to the classic cross-chained state.
The problem of cross-chaining on a 2x is the chain rubbing on the FD plates and/or on the inner side of the of the large chainring when in extreme positions. Noise = wear and annoyance. A 1x eliminates this factor and as such, there is by definition, no cross chaining.
Cross chaining with traditional rings will put the chain in the angular region where it ‘thinks’ you want to shift. On a 1x system a narrow wide ring is typically used, or a similar device, that meshes more completely with the whole chain link. Since it doesn’t have to worry about shifting, it’s only worried about retention, so it can ease the chain into a consistent position from a wide variety of angles.
A traditional ring is made to allow shifting, which means there are specially shaped teeth and protrusions that will pick up the chain and help lift it in to the next gear and this is why cross chaining is an issue with 2x (or 3x) and not a 1x.
A 1x system has the chain ring positioned on the nominal chain line so it more closely lines up with the center of the cassette - like the middle ring on a 3x system. This reduces the lateral angle of the chain when on the largest or smallest rear sprocket compared to the classic cross-chained state.
The problem of cross-chaining on a 2x is the chain rubbing on the FD plates and/or on the inner side of the of the large chainring when in extreme positions. Noise = wear and annoyance. A 1x eliminates this factor and as such, there is by definition, no cross chaining.
Cross chaining with traditional rings will put the chain in the angular region where it ‘thinks’ you want to shift. On a 1x system a narrow wide ring is typically used, or a similar device, that meshes more completely with the whole chain link. Since it doesn’t have to worry about shifting, it’s only worried about retention, so it can ease the chain into a consistent position from a wide variety of angles.
A traditional ring is made to allow shifting, which means there are specially shaped teeth and protrusions that will pick up the chain and help lift it in to the next gear and this is why cross chaining is an issue with 2x (or 3x) and not a 1x.
Regardless, if a 1x suited my terrain and preferences, I wouldn’t give any of this a second thought.
Likes For Koyote:
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Nor-Cal
Posts: 3,767
Bikes: lots
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1954 Post(s)
Liked 2,925 Times
in
1,488 Posts
No, it won't stretch. And if it did the noise would be in every gear, not a 'few'. The derailleur would be out of adjustment the exact same amount in every gear. That's why whenever people bring their bike to the shop and say "It's shifting weird and/or making noise in these gears" I know the problem is either a bent hanger or more wear in some cogs than others.
Likes For cxwrench:
Likes For gringomojado:
#20
For The Fun of It
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Louisissippi Coast
Posts: 5,595
Bikes: Lynskey GR300, Lynskey Backroad, Litespeed T6, Lynskey MT29, Burley Duet
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1966 Post(s)
Liked 1,370 Times
in
702 Posts
No, it won't stretch. And if it did the noise would be in every gear, not a 'few'. The derailleur would be out of adjustment the exact same amount in every gear. That's why whenever people bring their bike to the shop and say "It's shifting weird and/or making noise in these gears" I know the problem is either a bent hanger or more wear in some cogs than others.
#21
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Nor-Cal
Posts: 3,767
Bikes: lots
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1954 Post(s)
Liked 2,925 Times
in
1,488 Posts
Many people describe what actually happens (housing compression, ferrules becoming fully seated) as 'stretch' but the cable doesn't get any longer. If the hanger is aligned properly and the derailleur is straight explain to me how a cable 'stretching' could be more apparent in some gears than others AND how you could fix it by making the cable shorter. I'll wait.
Likes For cxwrench:
#22
For The Fun of It
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Louisissippi Coast
Posts: 5,595
Bikes: Lynskey GR300, Lynskey Backroad, Litespeed T6, Lynskey MT29, Burley Duet
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1966 Post(s)
Liked 1,370 Times
in
702 Posts
Many people describe what actually happens (housing compression, ferrules becoming fully seated) as 'stretch' but the cable doesn't get any longer. If the hanger is aligned properly and the derailleur is straight explain to me how a cable 'stretching' could be more apparent in some gears than others AND how you could fix it by making the cable shorter. I'll wait.
Can you explain what the OP stands to lose by adjusting any slop out of the drive train?
Likes For spelger:
#24
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Nor-Cal
Posts: 3,767
Bikes: lots
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1954 Post(s)
Liked 2,925 Times
in
1,488 Posts
It has happened with nearly every bike I have owned, soon after buying or building it, that it started making noise in the smaller gears. The noise went away after taking up slack with the adjuster. In fact, if I knew how to post video, I could probably demonstrate it by putting a bike in my work stand, adjusting a little slop into the drive train and shifting up and down through the full range. I can't explain it, but it has darn sure been a fact of life for me with almost all of my probably 20 buys and builds.
Can you explain what the OP stands to lose by adjusting any slop out of the drive train?
Can you explain what the OP stands to lose by adjusting any slop out of the drive train?