Help choosing a new bike (Flatbar/gravel/hybrid)
#26
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Spinning a cadence of 90 in a 53x11 (with a 700c wheel) is almost 35 mph. If your cadence is 120 then you're over 46 mph.
Even if you go with a 46 x 31 on front (a common GRX combo), then your speed is 30 mph at a cadence of 90 and over 40 mph at a cadence of 120.
If you can spin a 53x11 on the flats..... well, I don't think you can.
Even if you go with a 46 x 31 on front (a common GRX combo), then your speed is 30 mph at a cadence of 90 and over 40 mph at a cadence of 120.
If you can spin a 53x11 on the flats..... well, I don't think you can.
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And? I never said I spin. My cadence is unmonitored, but I think it's usually in the 60s. In the flats, I'm generally going about 20-24 mph. It's an old-fashioned style of riding that's damned efficient if you're capable of it.
I'm a 60 year old man with very strong leg muscles trying to ride fast over long distances. This works for me, and I'm not particularly interested in your logical fallacies "proving" it can't. Point is I need a gear combo higher than a 1x offers, why would it be worth your time to try to convince me otherwise? I want my 53t chain ring, I just don't want to take big hills on it.
I'm a 60 year old man with very strong leg muscles trying to ride fast over long distances. This works for me, and I'm not particularly interested in your logical fallacies "proving" it can't. Point is I need a gear combo higher than a 1x offers, why would it be worth your time to try to convince me otherwise? I want my 53t chain ring, I just don't want to take big hills on it.
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https://www.bikecalc.com/speed_at_cadence
A 40:11 at 18 mph is only around 62 rpm cadence.
#29
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Obviously, you and I agree, I know my riding habits are extremely unusual so I refrain from recommending on 1x vs. 2x. I don't understand, however, how 1x vs. 2x is a real debate. Obviously, people are going to have some variation in their gear preferences, and people would probably spare everyone some silly argumentation by just sticking to description of the advantages and disadvantages of the systems rather than trying to convince people of what they should or shouldn't want.
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I'm posting my op that the other fellow chose to argue with.
Obviously, you and I agree, I know my riding habits are extremely unusual so I refrain from recommending on 1x vs. 2x. I don't understand, however, how 1x vs. 2x is a real debate. Obviously, people are going to have some variation in their gear preferences, and people would probably spare everyone some silly argumentation by just sticking to description of the advantages and disadvantages of the systems rather than trying to convince people of what they should or shouldn't want.
Obviously, you and I agree, I know my riding habits are extremely unusual so I refrain from recommending on 1x vs. 2x. I don't understand, however, how 1x vs. 2x is a real debate. Obviously, people are going to have some variation in their gear preferences, and people would probably spare everyone some silly argumentation by just sticking to description of the advantages and disadvantages of the systems rather than trying to convince people of what they should or shouldn't want.
I think it’s fair to say that you represent the extreme in requiring a 53:11 for flat riding. The OP mentioned 16-18 mph on the flat, so they are unlikely to have any issues with a 1x or 2x drivetrain. Personally I think a 1x drivetrain is very attractive if you don’t need a very big gear. I much prefer a 1x setup on my mountain bike. But for road use I don’t mind a double chainset as shifting chainring is less demanding on road. For the sort of mild off-road riding the OP is describing I don’t think there is much in it. A GRX group set is probably going to be ideal.
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That’s why I would suggest that the OP simply uses the speed vs cadence calculator to work out what gear range they require.
I think it’s fair to say that you represent the extreme in requiring a 53:11 for flat riding. The OP mentioned 16-18 mph on the flat, so they are unlikely to have any issues with a 1x or 2x drivetrain. Personally I think a 1x drivetrain is very attractive if you don’t need a very big gear. I much prefer a 1x setup on my mountain bike. But for road use I don’t mind a double chainset as shifting chainring is less demanding on road. For the sort of mild off-road riding the OP is describing I don’t think there is much in it. A GRX group set is probably going to be ideal.
I think it’s fair to say that you represent the extreme in requiring a 53:11 for flat riding. The OP mentioned 16-18 mph on the flat, so they are unlikely to have any issues with a 1x or 2x drivetrain. Personally I think a 1x drivetrain is very attractive if you don’t need a very big gear. I much prefer a 1x setup on my mountain bike. But for road use I don’t mind a double chainset as shifting chainring is less demanding on road. For the sort of mild off-road riding the OP is describing I don’t think there is much in it. A GRX group set is probably going to be ideal.
Yeah, my thing is I generally try not to recommend anything I haven't tried, so I always think it's a fair warning to people to tell them I'm extremely atypical and that I rule out things they probably want to consider. I think that consulting the calculator is really solid advice especially because it lets you plug in your riding habits no matter how out of the ordinary.
Since I really have no experience with it, do you notice any qualitative difference in shifting the rear derailleur between 1x and 2x on the road?
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What I never enjoyed was shifting chainrings while riding demanding mtb trails. Always a risk of dropping the chain or getting caught out in the wrong ring. But never had a problem shifting chainrings on the road or easy trails.
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Just go for a salsa journeyman, cannondale topstone type gravel bike. They are sit up casual enough to get by with street clothes. Swap jersey pockets for feed bags or handle bar bags.
650x47 wtb byway tire. Wider flared bars.
Put on a dual sided spd/ flat pedal. For your 40 mile ride throw on your spds. For tooling through the camp or to the store whatever shoe you want.
Maybe look at the Haro Beasley.... but honestly
I think you'd be better served with a 650x47 gravel bike.
650x47 wtb byway tire. Wider flared bars.
Put on a dual sided spd/ flat pedal. For your 40 mile ride throw on your spds. For tooling through the camp or to the store whatever shoe you want.
Maybe look at the Haro Beasley.... but honestly
I think you'd be better served with a 650x47 gravel bike.
1x or 2x or gearing in general isn't likely to be an issue, and you have plenty of tools here to determine if a specific gearing combination would work for you .... Availability will likely play the biggest role in determining your choices.
#34
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As far as what the op needs, I am just guessing. Based on purpose, age, lifestyle, and first choice of a bicycle (road).
I know I've ridden many bicycles, covering many purposes. I mostly been a road bike guy, but that is changing. Oh I still like smooth, clean, easy... I just dont need a road bike for it. (Insert grain of salt because my Niner RLT9 rdo might as well be a road bike, just rides on fatties) 700x40 seems skinny now.
Last year I did a huge n-1, took off in my van with 3 bikes. Niner RLT9, 29er scalpel, and my 29er giant talon hardtail.
My difference from op, I didn't do campgrounds. I was boondocking. So I found myself mostly exploring with the Talon. All good except my wheels on that bike hates tubeless and goat heads suck. I also found myself limited with XC. I sold Talon bought Trance 29er (spontaneous as they had one in stock as I was buying tubes for my Talon).
The plan was to also sell the scalpel , and buy a carbon hardrail 29er. Couldn't really justify that, Not after doing 10 miles in desert on some utv double track. Went to lock it out on pavement and realized it already was locked out.
All of that to say I've spent more time on my 29ers than I did gravel bike. Part of that just happened to be my location.
And all of that to say that I'd much rather be on a $2,000-3000 hardtail 29er, than a hybrid. Partially because well I think hybrids lack performance and are generally on the heavy side. (there doesn't really seem to be a performance hybrid market) Heavy being one of the reasons the OP is not into taking mnt bikes with them.
Also out of everything thing I've ever ridden. Road geometry is efficient.
So take the road geometry, relax it. Mate it with bigger tires, it becomes an efficient effective do it all bicycle. a gravel bike.
I've even had cheap (much hated) gravel bike. I still liked it better than a hybrid/fitness.
I just have the opinion that geometry is #1.
Compliance, comfort, and efficiency #2
A relaxed gravel bike offers both of those with a bit wider bar, and its not awkward with cheap cotton cargo shorts. Depending on saddle fit!
Its also in my opinion, less awkward wearing lycra on a gravel bike than lycra on a fitness bike.
I suppose 650x47 vs 700x 40. Will also be like the 1x vs 2x choice.
Given some of the clues in original post. I really don't see either of these 2 choices being as big as the gravel, hybrid, fitness, etc.... choice.
Oh and I still might give up the scalpel, for say something like a haro Beasley. Something that I don't care if it rides full time on a rear bike carrier. Also something that I don't mind leaving locked outside while shopping, eating/drinking. But as my 1 and only bike for full time road living? No way!
Oh and each to their own. I've found peace in boondocking and solitude. No need for a town bike.
Last edited by Metieval; 08-07-21 at 09:17 AM.