Need mountain bike brake cables (cantilever / straddle system)
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Need mountain bike brake cables (cantilever / straddle system)
My 28 year old Gary Fisher MTB needs brake cables again.
This is the basic system:

I think I used Clarks previously but it has been about 10 years since the last cable replacement -- I ride 5-6 mile every other day on my Gary Fisher hybridized grocery-getter. At the time of the last cable change, we had a local Performance shop in the area where Clarks was about $6/pair.
I don't want to pay for high end. You EXPERIENCED folks on this forum, I'm sure, know of the best bang for the buck. ABOVE ALL: I want reliability. I live in Southern Calif where the whether is dry and I never ride in wet weather. I live about 6 miles from the ocean (so no salty air) and always garage my bikes from the elements + temperature extremes.
Thanks in advance for any help in selecting the cable!
BTW: If i recall, the OEM cables on this ~ $400 (late 1993 price) bike lasted well over 15 years. Maybe they made better cables back then ... or maybe GF didn't skimp out. Is it worth seeking out USED cables (local bike repair shops) that are in good cond.?
This is the basic system:

I think I used Clarks previously but it has been about 10 years since the last cable replacement -- I ride 5-6 mile every other day on my Gary Fisher hybridized grocery-getter. At the time of the last cable change, we had a local Performance shop in the area where Clarks was about $6/pair.
I don't want to pay for high end. You EXPERIENCED folks on this forum, I'm sure, know of the best bang for the buck. ABOVE ALL: I want reliability. I live in Southern Calif where the whether is dry and I never ride in wet weather. I live about 6 miles from the ocean (so no salty air) and always garage my bikes from the elements + temperature extremes.
Thanks in advance for any help in selecting the cable!
BTW: If i recall, the OEM cables on this ~ $400 (late 1993 price) bike lasted well over 15 years. Maybe they made better cables back then ... or maybe GF didn't skimp out. Is it worth seeking out USED cables (local bike repair shops) that are in good cond.?
#2
Randomhead
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Happy Valley, Pennsylvania
Posts: 23,293
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked 2,844 Times
in
1,957 Posts
A bike shop should have something like that. Probably just generic though
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Minas Ithil
Posts: 9,335
Mentioned: 66 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2431 Post(s)
Liked 630 Times
in
389 Posts
You're looking for the link wire? This is the exact one in your picture.
https://www.modernbike.com/product-2...xoCQvUQAvD_BwE
https://www.modernbike.com/product-2...xoCQvUQAvD_BwE
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: The banks of the River Charles
Posts: 1,953
Bikes: 2022 Salsa Beargrease, 2020 Seven Evergreen, 2019 Honey Allroads Ti, 2018 Seven Redsky XX, 2017 Trek Boon 7, 2014 Trek 520
Mentioned: 18 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 663 Post(s)
Liked 811 Times
in
446 Posts
Cables like that a should be available online, in stock at an LBS, or available for order from an LBS, I’d consider NOS but never used cables.
#5
Senior Member
Used cables are not recommended. You should be able to get good quality new stainless steel cables, ferrules, cable ends and housing along with straddle cable for both front and rear brakes for around $20 from your local bike shop.
#6
Junior Member
Thread Starter
You're looking for the link wire? This is the exact one in your picture.
https://www.modernbike.com/product-2...xoCQvUQAvD_BwE
https://www.modernbike.com/product-2...xoCQvUQAvD_BwE
Sorry that was confusing.
I want the cable… the straddle was meant to show my cantilever SYSTEM.
#7
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Really…THAT $$$$?!!!
I saw Shimano’s at Jenson —local pick up — for $3.50
https://www.jensonusa.com/Shimano-Stainless-MTB-Brake-Cable
Amazon … $4.30 … free delivery.
https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Mountain-Complete-Replaceable-Bicycle/dp/B089Y18B5K
P.S. I just need the raw cable.
Last edited by elcyc; 07-13-21 at 04:59 AM.
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Down Under
Posts: 1,936
Bikes: A steel framed 26" off road tourer from a manufacturer who thinks they are cool. Giant Anthem. Trek 720 Multiroad pub bike. 10 kids bikes all under 20". Assorted waifs and unfinished projects.
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1188 Post(s)
Liked 1,152 Times
in
638 Posts
You've already answered your own question. If $3.50 for a shimano stainless cable is too much money... well .
#9
Expired Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: TN
Posts: 10,273
Mentioned: 32 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3078 Post(s)
Liked 4,109 Times
in
2,074 Posts
Either of those will be fine.
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 2,432
Bikes: 06 Lemond Reno, 98 GT Timberline mtn.bike
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 371 Post(s)
Liked 596 Times
in
373 Posts
So, it's the cable, that goes from the brake lever to the brakes that you need? Any local bike shop should have brake cables. Jagwire is recognized as a quality brand, and should last a good while.
Might be a little more expensive than generic, but quality usually does cost more.
Might be a little more expensive than generic, but quality usually does cost more.
#11
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Any thoughts about Aztec TEFLON mtb cable?

I've used it in the past -- same GF bike -- and it snapped in about a year, right at the cantilever clamping bolt (where it is clamped down by that one bolt). May have been my own fault --- over-tightened the clamp. I think a similar thread about that issue was posted here on BF.
So ... cables snapping right at the anchor bolt is my main issue.

I've used it in the past -- same GF bike -- and it snapped in about a year, right at the cantilever clamping bolt (where it is clamped down by that one bolt). May have been my own fault --- over-tightened the clamp. I think a similar thread about that issue was posted here on BF.
So ... cables snapping right at the anchor bolt is my main issue.

#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 2,432
Bikes: 06 Lemond Reno, 98 GT Timberline mtn.bike
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 371 Post(s)
Liked 596 Times
in
373 Posts
Never had that type of brake system, but seems it could be one of two things. On the brake arm, is there a shallow slot for the cable-if so, check for any burrs that could damage the cable.
Or, under the anchor bolt, is there a flat washer, which would go over the cable, so that when the bolt is tightened, the bolt isn't trying to turn the cable, which would cause damage? Seems there should be a flat washer under the bolt.
Maybe someone who has experience with that specific system will chime in, but that's all that occurs to me. Even a cheap cable shouldn't break in one year-seems it would be something other than the cable.
Or, under the anchor bolt, is there a flat washer, which would go over the cable, so that when the bolt is tightened, the bolt isn't trying to turn the cable, which would cause damage? Seems there should be a flat washer under the bolt.
Maybe someone who has experience with that specific system will chime in, but that's all that occurs to me. Even a cheap cable shouldn't break in one year-seems it would be something other than the cable.
#13
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Brand new cable --- minus ONE strand. HOW LONG WILL IT LAST??
That bolt anchor point is where I've ALWAYS had failures. And frankly, I should've replaced that cable when I orig. saw corrosion (yes, that "business end" had been oxidizing for a about two years-- the rest of the cable was rust-free, even exposed lengths).
The REAR Shimano caliper brakes I use are the originals that came factory-stock with the Gary Fisher mtb, way back in Oct. 1993. They almost look like the ones in the Google Images-found photo shown in my earlier post. The anchor point is a bit different. Shimano uses a hex bolt that that has a kind of two-prong "fork" washer. One "sandwiches" the cable here. That sandwich compression is where I've been a bit confused -- metal-against-metal-against-metal. It's a GOLDILOCKS adj. .. too much and premature snapping ... too little and that'll slip.
Speaking of cables .... I'm going to do something that may be a bit risky. In that Clarks set, I had TWO cables. Years ago, upon purchase, I went to install it and somehow one of the strands bound up, tangling, and I could not re-wind, solder or super-glue. Surprisingly, none of the other strands unraveled.
For this recent cable job, I dug out that mess ... removed (carefully unwound) that ONE strand all the way back to the base stud (at hand grip caliper). I essentially now have a BRAND NEW cable with one less strand.
Over the years, neither my cycling time (mileage wise) -- nor commuting loads -- have changed. But my riding and braking habits have become more gentle and measured ... as have inspection and preventive maint. rituals.
The REAR Shimano caliper brakes I use are the originals that came factory-stock with the Gary Fisher mtb, way back in Oct. 1993. They almost look like the ones in the Google Images-found photo shown in my earlier post. The anchor point is a bit different. Shimano uses a hex bolt that that has a kind of two-prong "fork" washer. One "sandwiches" the cable here. That sandwich compression is where I've been a bit confused -- metal-against-metal-against-metal. It's a GOLDILOCKS adj. .. too much and premature snapping ... too little and that'll slip.
Speaking of cables .... I'm going to do something that may be a bit risky. In that Clarks set, I had TWO cables. Years ago, upon purchase, I went to install it and somehow one of the strands bound up, tangling, and I could not re-wind, solder or super-glue. Surprisingly, none of the other strands unraveled.
For this recent cable job, I dug out that mess ... removed (carefully unwound) that ONE strand all the way back to the base stud (at hand grip caliper). I essentially now have a BRAND NEW cable with one less strand.
Over the years, neither my cycling time (mileage wise) -- nor commuting loads -- have changed. But my riding and braking habits have become more gentle and measured ... as have inspection and preventive maint. rituals.
#14
Expired Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: TN
Posts: 10,273
Mentioned: 32 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3078 Post(s)
Liked 4,109 Times
in
2,074 Posts
So you didn't need a new cable after all.
Careful that you don't crush this one and you'll be good for another 20 years.


#15
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I can RE-USE that rear cable broke on me yesterday ... on the FRONT. Looked at it under a magnifier. The part that was not near the anchor point looks brand new!
Likes For elcyc:
#16
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Likes For elcyc: