NB to Biking
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2021
Posts: 1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
NB to Biking
I found below ad in Craigslist for $290, do not have enough knowledge, wanted to check with experts here if it is worth of over priced. Thank you for your help.
Trek 420 Fast track in gift condition.
3 X 7 Indexed Shimano drive
Pristine 58cm CroMo frame.
Best for riders 5'7" to 6'0".
One owner bike. Completely reassembled and meticulously serviced.
No short-cuts, hidden issues, "just needs" or other bowl shirt.
All components are in excellent working order.
No rust or rust removed. No chips or scratches.
No signs of "normal wear and tear".
Trek 420 Fast track in gift condition.
3 X 7 Indexed Shimano drive
Pristine 58cm CroMo frame.
Best for riders 5'7" to 6'0".
One owner bike. Completely reassembled and meticulously serviced.
No short-cuts, hidden issues, "just needs" or other bowl shirt.
All components are in excellent working order.
No rust or rust removed. No chips or scratches.
No signs of "normal wear and tear".
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: South shore, L.I., NY
Posts: 6,164
Bikes: Flyxii FR322, Cannondale Topstone, Miyata City Liner, Specialized Chisel, Specialized Epic Evo
Mentioned: 18 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2744 Post(s)
Liked 1,473 Times
in
856 Posts
I found below ad in Craigslist for $290, do not have enough knowledge, wanted to check with experts here if it is worth of over priced. Thank you for your help.
Trek 420 Fast track in gift condition.
3 X 7 Indexed Shimano drive
Pristine 58cm CroMo frame.
Best for riders 5'7" to 6'0".
One owner bike. Completely reassembled and meticulously serviced.
No short-cuts, hidden issues, "just needs" or other bowl shirt.
All components are in excellent working order.
No rust or rust removed. No chips or scratches.
No signs of "normal wear and tear".
Trek 420 Fast track in gift condition.
3 X 7 Indexed Shimano drive
Pristine 58cm CroMo frame.
Best for riders 5'7" to 6'0".
One owner bike. Completely reassembled and meticulously serviced.
No short-cuts, hidden issues, "just needs" or other bowl shirt.
All components are in excellent working order.
No rust or rust removed. No chips or scratches.
No signs of "normal wear and tear".
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Mission Viejo
Posts: 5,445
Bikes: 1986 Cannondale SR400 (Flat bar commuter), 1988 Cannondale Criterium XTR, 1992 Serotta T-Max, 1995 Trek 970
Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1815 Post(s)
Liked 1,960 Times
in
1,202 Posts
If it is pristine, it is probably not a bad deal. What else can you buy for less than $300 that has been completely maintained? If that is true, of course.
As for a 58cm fitting 5’7 to 6’0, not a chance for someone 5’7”. More like a minimum of 5’10”.
John
As for a 58cm fitting 5’7 to 6’0, not a chance for someone 5’7”. More like a minimum of 5’10”.
John
Likes For 70sSanO:
#4
Zip tie Karen
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Fair Oaks Ranch, TX
Posts: 7,005
Bikes: '13 Motobecane Fantom29 HT, '16 Motobecane Turino Pro Disc, '16 Motobecane Gran Premio Elite, '18 Velobuild VB-R-022, '21 Tsunami SNM-100
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1464 Post(s)
Liked 1,537 Times
in
804 Posts
As said above, a 58 cm frame is suitable for ~5'10" to 6'1" or so, depending on stem reach. You didn't include how tall you are, and your relative body proportions (i.e., long torso versus long legs vs balanced proportions). "Will it fit?" is the very first question to be asked. Always.
Likes For Phil_gretz:
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Hacienda Hgts
Posts: 1,780
Bikes: 1999 Schwinn Peloton Ultegra 10, Kestrel RT-1000 Ultegra, Trek Marlin 6 Deore 29'er
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 698 Post(s)
Liked 1,598 Times
in
790 Posts
Here is something to consider:
https://www.bikepedia.com/QuickBike/...spx?item=69226
Said bike was only $425 new in 1997.
Tourney components are the lowest in the Shimano lineup.
Keep looking.
https://www.bikepedia.com/QuickBike/...spx?item=69226
Said bike was only $425 new in 1997.
Tourney components are the lowest in the Shimano lineup.
Keep looking.
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2021
Posts: 4,996
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2525 Post(s)
Liked 2,712 Times
in
1,711 Posts
Here is something to consider:
https://www.bikepedia.com/QuickBike/...spx?item=69226
Said bike was only $425 new in 1997.
Tourney components are the lowest in the Shimano lineup.
Keep looking.
https://www.bikepedia.com/QuickBike/...spx?item=69226
Said bike was only $425 new in 1997.
Tourney components are the lowest in the Shimano lineup.
Keep looking.
#7
On Your Left
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Long Island, New York, USA
Posts: 8,373
Bikes: Trek Emonda SLR, Sram eTap, Zipp 303
Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3004 Post(s)
Liked 2,430 Times
in
1,184 Posts
With the limited availability of bikes these days, if it needs no repairs, just a few adjustments... grab it. Offer $250 but if they insist on $290, pay it.
Likes For GlennR:
#8
more daylight today!
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 12,474
Bikes: Tarmac Disc Comp Di2 - 2020
Mentioned: 43 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5111 Post(s)
Liked 3,607 Times
in
2,504 Posts
The big question is does it fit you?
Then, is it the kind of bike you really need for the type cycling you will be doing. I just see too many people that really just want a easy leisurely riding bike and they get road bikes then put all sorts of seat posts with large set back, ridiculously extended or raised stems on them and then still wonder why they are so uncomfortable or can't do the things they want to do on the bike they chose.
The bike is old. If you are a experienced bike DIY'er you might can do a lot with it. But when you need to get it worked on or new components, there might be troubles brewing if you have to pay for a mechanic.
Then, is it the kind of bike you really need for the type cycling you will be doing. I just see too many people that really just want a easy leisurely riding bike and they get road bikes then put all sorts of seat posts with large set back, ridiculously extended or raised stems on them and then still wonder why they are so uncomfortable or can't do the things they want to do on the bike they chose.
The bike is old. If you are a experienced bike DIY'er you might can do a lot with it. But when you need to get it worked on or new components, there might be troubles brewing if you have to pay for a mechanic.
#9
Bikes are okay, I guess.
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Richmond, Virginia
Posts: 8,668
Bikes: Waterford Paramount Touring, Giant CFM-2, Raleigh Sports 3-speeds in M23 & L23, Schwinn Cimarron oddball build, Marin Palisades Trail dropbar conversion, Nishiki Cresta GT
Mentioned: 64 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2527 Post(s)
Liked 1,920 Times
in
1,287 Posts
Welcome! You're getting some good advice. Most important is fit, but if the bike fits and rides well and you like it, buy it. If you don't know bikes it would be advisable to have a buddy with knowledge accompany you to confirm or correct your impressions. Good luck!
#10
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2021
Posts: 5
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
I think, if you like the look and feel of the bike, go for it. In my experience, if the components work well it doesnt make such a big difference if they are tourney or top of the line to most riders.
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 14,485
Bikes: 2015 Workswell 066, 2017 Workswell 093, 2014 Dawes Sheila, 1983 Cannondale 500, 1984 Raleigh Olympian, 2007 Cannondale Rize 4, 2017 Fuji Sportif 1 LE
Mentioned: 143 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7088 Post(s)
Liked 2,509 Times
in
1,373 Posts
If the bike is mid-to-late '90s, it will probably have 130-mm rear dropout spacing---which means you can put just about any modern wheels and gears on it. From what I see online the bike has 700c wheels---which, again, means that it will be easy to find wheels for it.
If the rear dropout spacing is 130 mm, you could rebuild the bike as a 2x11 or anything else. Often 7-speed wheels have freewheels, not freehubs, which aren't as strong, but should work fine for non-competitive or non-abusive riding. Still, it is nice to know that if you like the frame you could swap in any modern drive train---pull a bike with a decent drive train and a broken frame out of the bike shop dumpster and swap out the gear and go, or pick up old used bikes or whatever .... if it has the old 126-mm spacing, you are stuck using old tech.
This. If you don't know bikes, bring a friend who does. If everything is as advertised and works as intended, it might be a decent ride.
It really depends on three things:
A.) Does it fit? if it doesn't, it could be solid gold with diamonds, it is still useless to you (if it is solid gold for $290, buy it and melt it down for resale.)
B.) Does everything really work perfectly and look brand new? Can you easily shift through all the gears and ride silently (no clicks or clunks) in every gear? Do the brakes stop you swiftly? If there is no wear, no paint chips, no rubbed areas under the cables, then this might be one of those garage queens .... ignored in the corner for years. Great luck for you, if so.
C.) Does it work for the way you want to ride? This is an old steel touring frame, so it probably isn't lightweight ... but that doesn't matter to everyone. I have an old steel Raleigh which isn't at all light but is a great ride.
Does the riding position suit you? You can adjust it, but only so much. Do you want to go really fast? Do you want to put a rack on the back and use it for errands? I'd say the bike could probably work for anything except competition, but likely the frame is designed for pretty narrow tires, so you probably couldn't convert it to a gravel bike, for instance. On another hand, it might fit 32s if it is a late-nineties touring frame.
If the rear dropout spacing is 130 mm, you could rebuild the bike as a 2x11 or anything else. Often 7-speed wheels have freewheels, not freehubs, which aren't as strong, but should work fine for non-competitive or non-abusive riding. Still, it is nice to know that if you like the frame you could swap in any modern drive train---pull a bike with a decent drive train and a broken frame out of the bike shop dumpster and swap out the gear and go, or pick up old used bikes or whatever .... if it has the old 126-mm spacing, you are stuck using old tech.
It really depends on three things:
A.) Does it fit? if it doesn't, it could be solid gold with diamonds, it is still useless to you (if it is solid gold for $290, buy it and melt it down for resale.)
B.) Does everything really work perfectly and look brand new? Can you easily shift through all the gears and ride silently (no clicks or clunks) in every gear? Do the brakes stop you swiftly? If there is no wear, no paint chips, no rubbed areas under the cables, then this might be one of those garage queens .... ignored in the corner for years. Great luck for you, if so.
C.) Does it work for the way you want to ride? This is an old steel touring frame, so it probably isn't lightweight ... but that doesn't matter to everyone. I have an old steel Raleigh which isn't at all light but is a great ride.
Does the riding position suit you? You can adjust it, but only so much. Do you want to go really fast? Do you want to put a rack on the back and use it for errands? I'd say the bike could probably work for anything except competition, but likely the frame is designed for pretty narrow tires, so you probably couldn't convert it to a gravel bike, for instance. On another hand, it might fit 32s if it is a late-nineties touring frame.
Last edited by Maelochs; 07-15-21 at 06:45 AM.