shelbyfv

Locked thread and larger iggy list?

shelbyfv

What does this all mean? Picture of a keypad?

genejockey 

See, now, as a Biologist I'm more concerned about whatever biological material might be growing in the bar tape.

I've gotten a couple real bargains this year - at least, I feel like they were bargains. To me, though, the key isn't the maintenance, since I tear them down and rebuild them anyway. It's whether they were stored inside. When I got one of my bikes, I was looking at the very same model, from the very same year, from a different seller. The one I bought had spend most of its 33 year life garaged, and the candyapple red paint was in great shape. Maybe a little fade on the top of the top tube. The other one? Light pink. Sunbleached from years 'stored' outside.

Maelochs

To the OP .... if you want to lose weight, address your eating habits. Or .... be glad you have stronger legs to better carry around the unwanted weight.

As for bikes .... start cheap and see if you like cycling. Why drop $500 (plus $100 for accessories, at least, usually) only to find out that after 20 minutes you hate the sport (pastime, activity, whatever)?

Look for beginner level cycling clubs in your area, and find out not only if they have beginner rides, but if anyone has anything for sale which might fit you. Or shop Craigslist .... and whatever you do, bring along someone who knows something about bikes. Buying a bike which doesn't fit or doesn't work is wasted cash and time and enthusiasm.

Weight isn't a huge deal for a beginner, IMO, because you have no contrasting experiences. That said, I have a sub-17-lb CF speed machine and a 27-lb utility bike and enjoy riding them equally ... so I might be nuts. But the most important part, after fit, is having all the parts work, with everything which should spin, spinning smoothly, and everything which should not move, not moving. That way you will be able to actually ride the bike.

Yes, a heavier bike will take a marginally greater amount of energy to move---but if you are new to cycling, Everything will be somewhat of a physical challenge. Hills are just as long and steep on a bike weighing a few pounds less .... light bikes don't magically pedal themselves.

Get a bike which Works. Ride it. If you can find a slow group, great. If not, just ride yourself. Use a free bike GPS program (RideWithGPS, Strava, and a couple others you can google) and you can track mileage and speed (don't have it visible while riding, because you want to be paying attention to the ride, not the numbers. The numbers are for when you get home.) That way you can track progress.

After a while, you will know if you like cycling in general, and will be able to ask more informed questions, --- and will still get a bunch of garage answers .... but seriously, your first question was just begging for it. Not particularly well thought out at all. No stress .... lots of us us started there (and sometimes go back there.)

Find a cheapish bike and try riding. Then we will know if there is even anything to talk about.

SurferRosa

Maybe take an online class in something (like English) to cure your boredom.

Outrider1

That's your mulligan! Don't let it happen again. (just kidding)

idk what to say

Well that was harsh.

Iride01 

Don't worry about those that have misinterpreted your intentions. Just look for the answers that may be of help to you and ignore the other noise.

Some of us will be sarcastic sometimes, thinking that the humor will come through more so than the beratement that it also contains. And some will always think such questions are trolls.

If you don't get the answer you think is correct, maybe ask another way at a later date. And if your motives were pure, and only you know, then don't worry what others think.

Outrider1

IDK, didn't you see the 'just kidding' note? You'll find that a fair amount of tongue-in-cheek humor gets tossed around here. To me, that's what makes BF entertaining as well as informative. I meant no malice.

idk what to say

Oh lol, I wanted to quote the person above you. haha

Outrider1

Gotcha

rsbob 

You are not the one who owes anyone an apology. Your question was legit. Some of the responses were far less so.

Don’t let the noise deter you from participating. You will quickly learn which users have highly valued information and which to block and your experience will be all the better.

Carry on.

shelbyfv

Kudos to OP as it seems he is receptive to advice. His last couple of posts have appropriate caps and punctuation! Some folks are here for years and never figure out how to post. This sticky in Mechanics should be helpful New Posters - please READ THIS

wolfchild

You get a 20 page thread and people arguing and debating about things which are irrelevant and unimportant to cycling.

wolfchild

Go buy a $ 10 000 bike and your boredom will go away forever.

Litho dbh

I totally got what he was demonstrating: that entering a phrase in search bar brings up seemingly irrelevant threads. One can get lost. So, we start a new thread, with, what to the regulars is a common question. Then we pile on the new guy with snark and accuse laziness. Maybe, if you can't be kind and helpful, keep scrolling. It takes less energy and is better for your karma.


BUT!!!! If they can't proof read or edit? ****em! Fair game! Let it rip!

cyccommute 

Given the number of salt encrusted handle bar pictures being posted here and in other places, I’d say there’s nothing to worry about. Failure of the metal due to corrosion, on the other hand…

cyccommute 

Not necessarily the route to a cheap bike now days.

Badger6

I was one of the first to the line...

Your question was without the context you just provided here, which sure sounded like trolling. Yes, your spelling and syntax were atrocious, work on it, it makes it easier to understand the question...but, more importantly, when you ask a question, provide a bit of context, we cannot read your mind.

The cost differential between various bikes is driven by a lot of factors, to your original question. For you, at this point, a less expensive used bike can be a bargain, but with it comes the near certain necessity that it will need some proper maintenance...either to get it working properly, or to keep it working. For you, as a new to cycling person, the advantages of a more expensive bike, perhaps new, are probably not going to be immediately realized. And even if you buy that more expensive bike, it will still at some point require maintenance to keep in proper working order, which will also maintain/improve the experience of riding it. Going with the bike at a lower price, and planning to get it properly looked over and tuned up before you ride it will cost you less and get you riding. You can upgrade later.

Phil_gretz

If that was what you wanted, then why didn't you simply say so.

This is what you wrote: "ok real question im still looking for a bike but why are professional bikes so expensive? like arnt they just a peace of medal and rubber lol?"

Do you think that your original post conveyed the nature of your question? You could have said: (1) what type of riding you'd like to do, (2) how much your budget is, (3) where (generally) you're located, and (4) how tall you are.

With those four pieces if information, folks on this forum would have been laser focused on a solution tailored to your needs. Instead, you phrased it to engender a debate.

Milton Keynes

When Al Gore was a young scientist experimenting with developing a computer network.

N2deep

How to get started in this sport and not waste a ton of money is a great question. Buying a good used bike is a great choice especially with todays supply chain issues. Most of us assume that you want a road bike however there are a lot of disciplines and bikes to choose from. I suggest buying a known brand such as Surly, Trek, Cannondale, Salsa, and or Specialized as most of these bikes will hold their value and were outfitted with decent components. Things to consider are; fit (buy a bike that fits), weight (lighter is better), gears ( hills require more gears), tire size (skinny for the road and fat for the dirt), whatever you buy have fun and ride often.

cb400bill

So hopefully we are done now with chastising this new forum member and can get on with helping him.

Thank you.

BinkyTurtle

I have ridden bikes all of my life, but consider myself a casual rider with no professional traits. My best advice to you, if you are also just sort of delving into bikes for the first time or picking it up again, is to ride as many bikes as you can before you buy. You don't even know what questions to ask until you have some comparisons. As others have suggested, a higher end bike that is used but in good shape is still probably going to be way better than a big box store bike. You won't know a Cadillac until you have ridden a Volkswagon. You will quickly feel the difference between a bike that feels like a part of you and is responsive and one that you are just planted on. You are also more likely to choose one that is better sized to you. both in height and length or reach. Once you have that down you will need to be able to judge the condition. Most of us can live with some cosmetic blemishes, but missing teeth or rounded teeth on the gears, derailleurs that don't travel correctly and shoddy brakes are things you can't accept. A bike shop will allow you to evaluate the most bikes in a single place and ask questions about the ones that appeal to you. If they are a bit more expensive than Craigslist, it is the price you pay for them having gone through it to ensure it is safe and giving you reliable advice. If you don't find what you want there, then you can start evaluating the private sales with more confidence. Finally, once you get your bike, remember that they make them adjustable for a reason. If you ride and anything hurts, don't be afraid to move seats forward and back as well as up and down, handlebars rotated or moved front/back, etc. So many folks get on a bike and ride it and hate it because they don't know it can be made more comfortable. Take your time. I know the supply is short but be patient and you will know when you meet the love of your life.

RiceAWay

In 2009 I had a severe concussion and the ER didn't even keep me overnight for observation. This is a real no-no. The concussion caused rather severe damage - enough that i was pretty much out of it for the next two years before a cop friend saw me having a seizure and got me to Stanford for real testing. I ended up on anti-seizure medication for life.


More importantly, during the time i was out of it I crashed multiple times and gave up cycling. And sold ALL of my stuff including a 30 year collection of team jerseys. So after being treated I started going through bike after bike in an effort to discover a bike that suited me. I presently have a garage full of bikes that I'm trying to sell. I have settled on titanium bikes and will keep three bikes and sell off 5 including a Colnago CLX3.0, a Lemond Zurich (both with D-A Di2) and a Felt F55X gravel bike with XT components. I also have an Eddy Merckx aluminum bike with 10 speed Campy on it which rides extremely well. All of which are great bikes but a little small for my 6'4' in 58 cm which appears to be the XL size now. Up until a couple of years ago I had enough flexibility so that I could ride these smaller framesets but those times are over.


I have always been a build it yourself guy so i usually buy a frameset and put my own Campy components on. But if you aren't, I would really suggest you buy the sort of bike you want USED unless it is carbon fiber top end. In which case I would suggest a new Trek so that you can get a lifetime warranty. I will tell you quite plainly, although I'm a Campagnolo man, Shimano 105 is VERY hard to beat. Unlike Dura Ace or Ultegra, the cranks are strong and won't break. The shifting is better than on my 10 speed Campy and you can get them with a compact front crankset and a wide ratio rear derailleur and cogset. And the 105 is actually reasonably priced.


So my advice is to NOT buy used carbon fiber unless you know what you're buying but for any other material you can get away far more economically with buying used. Not knocking CF mind you. I just sold my 2018 Trek Emonda with Di2 in perfect condition for half of what a new one could cost. And also a 2012 Trek Madone with manual new 11 speed Dura Ace group for less than the groupset alone would cost.


I would really suggest an 11 or 12 speed group, not because i see any value in all of those gears but because repair components are almost all used and cost more than new 11 speed stuff.