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how to plug unused braze-on holes

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how to plug unused braze-on holes

Old 09-28-21, 05:49 PM
  #1  
epnnf
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how to plug unused braze-on holes

Those little threaded holes in the frame so you can mount water bottle cage, pump, etc.
You can use short screws, plastic screws or leave them open.
Any other better ideas?
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Old 09-28-21, 06:03 PM
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I can't think of a better way to plug the holes than to use m5 bolts that were made to go into the holes.
Buy stainless steel bolts that have a buttonhead. They are a lower profile to eliminate snags/scraps and they won't rust.
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Old 09-28-21, 06:09 PM
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indyfabz
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Attach racks and/or fenders?
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Old 09-28-21, 07:34 PM
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I always use plastic screws for the bottle cage bolt holes on my cx bikes. Discrete and they won't get stuck.
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Old 09-28-21, 07:54 PM
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Stainless steel hex-head screws and grease the threads.
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Old 09-28-21, 08:15 PM
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Anodized bolts to match or complement the frame color.



Last edited by Rolla; 09-28-21 at 08:20 PM.
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Old 09-29-21, 07:45 AM
  #7  
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I can't imagine that you aren't using them. But sure put a screw in them. Plastic, stainless, zinc plated or any other coating that resists rust and corrosion. Cheap stainless might corrode as easy as steel if the threads get wet and stay wet, so put a little anti-seize or lube on whatever you use.

If you want to be quirky, get some sealing wax and put a blob on it with your signet stamped on it.
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Old 09-29-21, 06:34 PM
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Chewing gum?
gm
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Old 09-29-21, 07:29 PM
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Weld them.
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Old 09-29-21, 10:37 PM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by drlogik View Post
Stainless steel hex-head screws and grease the threads.
I assume that by hex-head you mean a set screw. I agree that would look nice.

John
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Old 09-30-21, 05:32 AM
  #11  
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Stainless hex button-head cap screws. Lowe's/Home Depot/Ace Hardware have an aisle with lots of drawers with various screws/washers/odds-&-ends where you'll find them. 5mm with .8 thread are what most are I think. If you think you may someday mount a bottle cage/fender/whatever, get ones that are long enough- if not, get the shortest and save the .001 gr of weight...
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Old 09-30-21, 07:24 AM
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Originally Posted by 70sSanO View Post
I assume that by hex-head you mean a set screw. I agree that would look nice.

John
A set screw has no head, so theoretically, it could continue completely through the threaded boss and drop into the frame. A button head is the way to go, IMHO.
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Old 09-30-21, 09:38 AM
  #13  
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What is wrong with you fellows? Titanium weighs less than steel. FTW
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Old 09-30-21, 10:08 AM
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I assume that by hex-head you mean a set screw.
Depends on what you mean by "set screw". I meant a round-head Allen-style fastener. They sit flush to the tubing better. Smoother look.

Like one of these only a little shorter:

Last edited by drlogik; 09-30-21 at 10:13 AM.
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Old 09-30-21, 10:55 AM
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If you're a weight-weenie in America, 10-32 nylon bolts are lightweight and cheap.
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Old 09-30-21, 05:42 PM
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I admit to wanting a set of Velo Orange 'punk bolts' to plug the ones on my front fork- they are spike decorative M5s. Everything else gets a water bottle cage though. Cant have too many in Texas.
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Old 09-30-21, 06:56 PM
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I use Problem Solvers Bubs.
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Old 10-02-21, 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by ThermionicScott View Post
If you're a weight-weenie in America, 10-32 nylon bolts are lightweight and cheap.
And generally, the incorrect size and thread.
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Old 10-02-21, 10:01 AM
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Galvanic corrosion between aluminum and stainless is a well-documented problem, so don't use a stainless fastener in an aluminum frame/rivnut. Titanium is also sub optimal for the same reason, although not as bad as stainless. Anodizing Ti is for appearance only and does not help with corrosion. The oxide layer is at most about 0.2 micron thick. Anodized aluminum with greased threads, a plastic washer, and low tension would be my choice. Chrome-plated steel for a steel frame.

Other options would be a 5mm rubber hole plug, some colored electrical tape, or decal material over the holes.

Originally Posted by Phil_gretz View Post
What is wrong with you fellows? Titanium weighs less than steel. FTW
It also weighs about 30% more than aluminum. Steel > titanium > aluminum > plastic > tape > nothing.
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Old 10-02-21, 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Bald Paul View Post
And generally, the incorrect size and thread.
Even if 10-32 weren't almost exactly the same threading as M5x0.8, the soft nylon would safely deform as needed to plug the holes.
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Old 10-02-21, 12:05 PM
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Perhaps, but if someone doesn't have either size on hand, they might as well buy the right one.
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Old 10-02-21, 12:24 PM
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fill with metal compatible silicon caulk or flex seal?
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Old 10-02-21, 09:11 PM
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Easy install, no snags, no corrosion, cheap
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Old 10-03-21, 01:56 AM
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nylon M5x0.8mm are easy to get.
https://www.mcmaster.com/nylon-screw...d-type~socket/
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Old 10-03-21, 06:08 AM
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Originally Posted by drlogik View Post
Stainless steel hex-head screws and grease the threads.
This is precisely what I do, but I use stainless steel button-head hex screws and coat the threads with beeswax. I searched forever to find some suitable 5mm screws made from BLACK nylon, but could only find them in the color white, which looked kind of weird. The other problem with the white nylon screws were that they were a very tight fit in the threads. I broke one as I was unscrewing it and I barely got it out. I ran one through a 5mmx.08 threading die, and that cleaned it up and was then able to thread it in nicely. I didn't use them though. The white screws just looked like crap.

So I now use the button-head hex screw in the shortest I can find, which is 8mm in length. I also get them in the Torx version, which guarantees that I'll get the screws out comfortably, and since they wont be holding anything onto the frame, I don't need to reef down on them to get them to stay tight. I used to do a lot of leatherworking along with knifemaking, and while I was into that, I discovered the many uses and applications for beeswax. I fell in love with it. Essentially its a nice, pliable, non-hardening thread sealant, that also acts like a low-strength threadlocker.
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