Problem with bikeshop staff.
10-07-21, 08:09 AM
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Problem with bikeshop staff.
Hi guys,i'll need your advice on someting if possible.
So...i've sent my bike on a big service to get it done,got it back and noticed they overtightened cup and cones a little bit on both wheels,it's kinda stopping early (doesn't have free time spinning as it had),and dusters aren't fitted properly as they should close to the hub,but there's a gap in between....I sent them my bike back to fix it,waited almost for a month,today i got it back and same story,my bigger problem and frustraion is dusters,again...they're not fitted properly and there's a gap in between,so if i ride it and when i wash it,dust and water will be able to get thru and make that nasty paste,and wash out the grease right?
And one more question,i'm planning to call them and send them the bike again but....what if they tell me they weren't able to fix the dusters,to fit them properly and they don't want to get my bike anymore,what do i do then....?
Who has right in that case? me to call someone who's in a bigger position in their shop,or they have the right to say "We tried to fit them properly but weren't able because they're..." i don't know maybe worn out,or just can't fit them for some reason....I mean it's kinda like sending a car or motorcycle and mechanic ends up saying similar thing lol.....
Do i have the right to complain to someone,to manager or somebody about the mechanic?
Like...do i have the right to ask them to replace dusters and if not possible what do i do? tell them i want new set of wheels (some cheaper ones),or i just swallow up my frustration,shut up,and buy myself new wheels,because i see no other choice if they aren't able to replace dusters...
I really need help on this,thanks.
CLICKFORPICS Here are the pics of both rear and front dusters on both sides.And if i remove the wheel,i can pull the dusters back even further so then there's a big gap in between....
What do you guys think,is the wheel all good?i mean they seem to bit just a little bit early stopping on the rear wheel so are cup and cones well done or...?
Front Wheel
Rear Wheel
So...i've sent my bike on a big service to get it done,got it back and noticed they overtightened cup and cones a little bit on both wheels,it's kinda stopping early (doesn't have free time spinning as it had),and dusters aren't fitted properly as they should close to the hub,but there's a gap in between....I sent them my bike back to fix it,waited almost for a month,today i got it back and same story,my bigger problem and frustraion is dusters,again...they're not fitted properly and there's a gap in between,so if i ride it and when i wash it,dust and water will be able to get thru and make that nasty paste,and wash out the grease right?
And one more question,i'm planning to call them and send them the bike again but....what if they tell me they weren't able to fix the dusters,to fit them properly and they don't want to get my bike anymore,what do i do then....?
Who has right in that case? me to call someone who's in a bigger position in their shop,or they have the right to say "We tried to fit them properly but weren't able because they're..." i don't know maybe worn out,or just can't fit them for some reason....I mean it's kinda like sending a car or motorcycle and mechanic ends up saying similar thing lol.....
Do i have the right to complain to someone,to manager or somebody about the mechanic?
Like...do i have the right to ask them to replace dusters and if not possible what do i do? tell them i want new set of wheels (some cheaper ones),or i just swallow up my frustration,shut up,and buy myself new wheels,because i see no other choice if they aren't able to replace dusters...
I really need help on this,thanks.
CLICKFORPICS Here are the pics of both rear and front dusters on both sides.And if i remove the wheel,i can pull the dusters back even further so then there's a big gap in between....
What do you guys think,is the wheel all good?i mean they seem to bit just a little bit early stopping on the rear wheel so are cup and cones well done or...?
Front Wheel
Rear Wheel
10-07-21, 08:17 AM
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I get the frustration at having a job not done correctly. Before you go to the extreme of buying new wheels, can you try getting a couple of cone wrenches and doing it yourself? I mean, they should be doing it properly, but if they can't seem to do so, adjusting them yourself is cheaper than buying a new wheelset. I know it's an annoying job - I have a spare wheelset where I need to adjust the rear hub and I've just been letting that spare gather dust for a couple years because I have working wheels an am lazy.
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10-07-21, 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by himespau
I get the frustration at having a job not done correctly. Before you go to the extreme of buying new wheels, can you try getting a couple of cone wrenches and doing it yourself? I mean, they should be doing it properly, but if they can't seem to do so, adjusting them yourself is cheaper than buying a new wheelset. I know it's an annoying job - I have a spare wheelset where I need to adjust the rear hub and I've just been letting that spare gather dust for a couple years because I have working wheels an am lazy.
I can't ride the bike i already wrote why,and neither i could sell the bike properly now if i wanted to,just because of the dusters....
10-07-21, 08:32 AM
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As was recommended by responders to some of your other posts, you should look for a new bike shop if you don't trust this one. Appears you have some reasons not to.
Of course you should ask to speak to a manager or owner if you are not happy with the work or if other employees won't answer your questions. It's difficult to address your issues online until you have had that discussion with someone in charge. I assume this is the same bike you posted about earlier with a worn out chain and cassette. Maybe other parts in the wheel are similarly worn. But your shop owes you some answers.
I would not be happy if my bike was returned to me after a "big service" with the problems you document.
Of course you should ask to speak to a manager or owner if you are not happy with the work or if other employees won't answer your questions. It's difficult to address your issues online until you have had that discussion with someone in charge. I assume this is the same bike you posted about earlier with a worn out chain and cassette. Maybe other parts in the wheel are similarly worn. But your shop owes you some answers.
I would not be happy if my bike was returned to me after a "big service" with the problems you document.
10-07-21, 08:39 AM
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To begin- of course you could sell the bike right now. Just say- 'the little rubber caps will need to be adjusted.' to whoever wants to buy it.
As for the rubber dust seals- I replaced one on one of my kid's bikes after it tore from age/use. Its a Tiagra hub and all I had to do was replace the rubber seal when I had the hub apart.
Hubs are not so complex that they are impossible to figure out. Watch a few youtube videos of old hubs being serviced and you will understand the process. You can kill 2 birds this way- you set the bearing tension and your dust caps will be installed correctly when you reassemble everything.
Oh- and the shop taking an entire month to service a bike they already serviced, just to adjust some hubs, is criminal.
As for the rubber dust seals- I replaced one on one of my kid's bikes after it tore from age/use. Its a Tiagra hub and all I had to do was replace the rubber seal when I had the hub apart.
Hubs are not so complex that they are impossible to figure out. Watch a few youtube videos of old hubs being serviced and you will understand the process. You can kill 2 birds this way- you set the bearing tension and your dust caps will be installed correctly when you reassemble everything.
Oh- and the shop taking an entire month to service a bike they already serviced, just to adjust some hubs, is criminal.
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10-07-21, 08:43 AM
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Cone wrenches are relatively inexpensive, buy some and fix it yourself. Those dust shields are easy to squeeze back into place. Dust shields not dusters.
10-07-21, 08:49 AM
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I would contact the shop manager and politely ask for a partial refund based mainly upon how long it took them the 2nd time around and then take the bike elsewhere.
10-07-21, 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Inusuit
As was recommended by responders to some of your other posts, you should look for a new bike shop if you don't trust this one. Appears you have some reasons not to.
Of course you should ask to speak to a manager or owner if you are not happy with the work or if other employees won't answer your questions. It's difficult to address your issues online until you have had that discussion with someone in charge. I assume this is the same bike you posted about earlier with a worn out chain and cassette. Maybe other parts in the wheel are similarly worn. But your shop owes you some answers.
I would not be happy if my bike was returned to me after a "big service" with the problems you document.
Of course you should ask to speak to a manager or owner if you are not happy with the work or if other employees won't answer your questions. It's difficult to address your issues online until you have had that discussion with someone in charge. I assume this is the same bike you posted about earlier with a worn out chain and cassette. Maybe other parts in the wheel are similarly worn. But your shop owes you some answers.
I would not be happy if my bike was returned to me after a "big service" with the problems you document.
Originally Posted by mstateglfr
To begin- of course you could sell the bike right now. Just say- 'the little rubber caps will need to be adjusted.' to whoever wants to buy it.
As for the rubber dust seals- I replaced one on one of my kid's bikes after it tore from age/use. Its a Tiagra hub and all I had to do was replace the rubber seal when I had the hub apart.
Hubs are not so complex that they are impossible to figure out. Watch a few youtube videos of old hubs being serviced and you will understand the process. You can kill 2 birds this way- you set the bearing tension and your dust caps will be installed correctly when you reassemble everything.
Oh- and the shop taking an entire month to service a bike they already serviced, just to adjust some hubs, is criminal.
As for the rubber dust seals- I replaced one on one of my kid's bikes after it tore from age/use. Its a Tiagra hub and all I had to do was replace the rubber seal when I had the hub apart.
Hubs are not so complex that they are impossible to figure out. Watch a few youtube videos of old hubs being serviced and you will understand the process. You can kill 2 birds this way- you set the bearing tension and your dust caps will be installed correctly when you reassemble everything.
Oh- and the shop taking an entire month to service a bike they already serviced, just to adjust some hubs, is criminal.
Originally Posted by bwilli88
Cone wrenches are relatively inexpensive, buy some and fix it yourself. Those dust shields are easy to squeeze back into place. Dust shields not dusters.
Easy for some,but impossible for this one at least....i spent 15 minutes trying squeeze them back but it they can't fit back in.I was thinking to try get it back to fit in with a screwdriver or something,but nope...i don't wanna to be ripping the rubber (even a tiny piece of it) and end up with them blaming me.
Originally Posted by downhillmaster
I would contact the shop manager and politely ask for a partial refund based mainly upon how long it took them the 2nd time around and then take the bike elsewhere.
10-07-21, 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Dany6
Yeah but then he'd probably ask for a price drop,and even if i wanted to sell it i'd like to sell it fair.
Used products arent perfect- they have been used.
Those seals are a few dollars to replace and yours don't even need replacement, they just need to be set differently. I can't imagine haggling money off a bike for that 'issue'. It'd be what, like $4 less than asking?
10-07-21, 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by mstateglfr
Perhaps. Or, the buyer won't even know what those are are won't care.
Used products arent perfect- they have been used.
Those seals are a few dollars to replace and yours don't even need replacement, they just need to be set differently. I can't imagine haggling money off a bike for that 'issue'. It'd be what, like $4 less than asking?
Used products arent perfect- they have been used.
Those seals are a few dollars to replace and yours don't even need replacement, they just need to be set differently. I can't imagine haggling money off a bike for that 'issue'. It'd be what, like $4 less than asking?
.There's no any,can't find it in my country man,it is kinda screwed situation,at same time it is and it is not big of a problem...lol
10-07-21, 10:27 AM
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You should learn how to adjust your own wheel bearings to your satisfaction of get another shop that does it to your satisfaction.
If the shop doesn't see any issue to what they are doing then all your jumping up and down and screaming is just going to make them grin and laugh.
I'd imagine more people are riding their bikes on cup and cone bearings adjusted too tight for my satisfaction also. But for the masses, it's probably not causing them any real troubles. Most probably won't ride that bike long enough for it to ever become a real issue for them.
If the shop doesn't see any issue to what they are doing then all your jumping up and down and screaming is just going to make them grin and laugh.
I'd imagine more people are riding their bikes on cup and cone bearings adjusted too tight for my satisfaction also. But for the masses, it's probably not causing them any real troubles. Most probably won't ride that bike long enough for it to ever become a real issue for them.
10-07-21, 10:44 AM
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If I were you, I'd just take my bike to another shop and see what they say. If it's really just a hub adjustment, it's a quick and cheap fix. Probably around $25-$30. It's a 10 minute job. Shops are busy so they may not be able to do it while you wait, but I would expect no more than a few days turn-around on something like that.
If it's an easy fix and another shop can do it, then your problem is solved and the only remaining issue is the money. If I was in this situation I'd pay the second shop, then go back to the first shop with documentation and ask them to refund the difference.
If it's an easy fix and another shop can do it, then your problem is solved and the only remaining issue is the money. If I was in this situation I'd pay the second shop, then go back to the first shop with documentation and ask them to refund the difference.
10-07-21, 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by msu2001la
If I were you, I'd just take my bike to another shop and see what they say. If it's really just a hub adjustment, it's a quick and cheap fix. Probably around $25-$30. It's a 10 minute job. Shops are busy so they may not be able to do it while you wait, but I would expect no more than a few days turn-around on something like that.
If it's an easy fix and another shop can do it, then your problem is solved and the only remaining issue is the money. If I was in this situation I'd pay the second shop, then go back to the first shop with documentation and ask them to refund the difference.
If it's an easy fix and another shop can do it, then your problem is solved and the only remaining issue is the money. If I was in this situation I'd pay the second shop, then go back to the first shop with documentation and ask them to refund the difference.
Only solution might be to leave them a negative rating and negative note on their fb page,and just tell anyone i know to avoid them.
10-07-21, 01:38 PM
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If you don’t adjust and maintain your own hubs how do you know they are too tight? If they have fresh thick grease in them they will slow quicker than before just spinning them, but will be fine on the road.
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10-07-21, 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Flatforkcrown
If you don’t adjust and maintain your own hubs how do you know they are too tight? If they have fresh thick grease in them they will slow quicker than before just spinning them, but will be fine on the road.
10-07-21, 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by msu2001la
It's a 10 minute job.
Anyone who works at a bike shop and cannot adjust a cone-and-cup hub had best only work the register. If they are doing your wrong over and over ... and you keep paying them to do it, and waiting a month each time .... You need to do something differently.
Seriously, you loosen a lock nut, twist two tension nuts (holding them with cone wrenches, which are very slender and can fit) and tighten a little, spin the hub, tighten a little more, until a little too tight, then back off a little, screw down the lock washer .... I haven't done it in years but that is my memory. And if you go to YouTube you can watch it being done by both pros and skilled amateurs. The wrenches a few dollars each .... imagine how much time and money you would have saved if you bought the tools and watched half-an-hour's worth of videos and did it yourself?
I hardly ever go to a bike shop----wheel-building is the one skill I have yet to tackle. I went to the (Only) local shop, run by people in the local club I used to ride with .... all good guys and girls .... but the mechanic couldn't get my wheel straight. He had issues with the bladed spokes, whatever .... thing is he couldn't do it any better than I could, but he charged me full price. He admitted to his issues and all, which is cool, and I realize, he has to charge me because it took him time and the shop is a business .... but I sure won't ever go there again for Anything.
Most bike mechanical work is simple and straightforward. I am a klutz with a short attention span and pretty thick-headed as well, and I can do all the stuff a shop can, just as well .... it just takes me longer.
If you choose to get victimized by bad people at a bad shop, that is on you. If you can get a refund, go for it ... But you went back for a ten-minute adjustment----which they should have done Immediately because they messed up the first time---and left the bike for a month and accepted delivery while it still wasn't fixed. They are not good people but you let them walk all over you.
Not sayin do it my way, but I would have either left and never gone back after the first time, or I would have demanded---quietly and pleasantly but very firmly---that they fix the bike Right Now (it's a ten--minute job after all) because the repairs were not done or not done correctly.
Also if you have a cell phone, it is really useful to take video of customer service exchanges and of the bike, establishing that at the time of the conversation the bike had the unsolved problems you identified.
But seriously ... if someone kicks me in the nuts twice I don't get within range a third time .... As for going back to a different iteration of the same shop---if they are a chain, contact upper management. Tell the bigger bosses what went on and see if they care. If they don't try to fix things, then you know better than to give them any more of your money or your life.
https://www.bing.com/shop?q=bicycle+...es&FORM=SHOPTB
https://www.bing.com/search?q=how%20...413BF611B0D02C
10-07-21, 05:54 PM
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When the wheels are removed from the bike, do the axles, front or rear, turn, not spin, but turn freely by hand, meaning does one or the other feel bound when turning the axle with your fingers?
Does one axle or the other turn freely, then binds slightly and then turns freely again?
Do the axles, front or rear, feel slightly rough when turned by hand?
Is the axle, front or rear, hard to turn by hand?
There is a lot that goes into a hub adjustment and understanding the limitations of the components on hand.
As for the seals, some of the seals shaped like the ones on your Miche hubs simply rely upon tension between the seal and the lock nut and cone to stay in place. Is this the case with the ones you have?
Does one axle or the other turn freely, then binds slightly and then turns freely again?
Do the axles, front or rear, feel slightly rough when turned by hand?
Is the axle, front or rear, hard to turn by hand?
There is a lot that goes into a hub adjustment and understanding the limitations of the components on hand.
As for the seals, some of the seals shaped like the ones on your Miche hubs simply rely upon tension between the seal and the lock nut and cone to stay in place. Is this the case with the ones you have?
10-07-21, 07:28 PM
#18
elcraft
Over-tightened skewers can compress the cones in hubs. One should optimally allow for this compression and leave cones a little one the “loose” side. Also, really sticky grease or an over abundance can initially limit the spin.
In either case, it suggests an inexperienced mechanic.
In either case, it suggests an inexperienced mechanic.
10-11-21, 07:12 AM
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Originally Posted by mstateglfr
The videos show the rear wheel coming to a stop pretty abruptly. Something somewhere is creating friction.
Originally Posted by Maelochs
This is the pertinent fact, IMO.
Anyone who works at a bike shop and cannot adjust a cone-and-cup hub had best only work the register. If they are doing your wrong over and over ... and you keep paying them to do it, and waiting a month each time .... You need to do something differently.
Seriously, you loosen a lock nut, twist two tension nuts (holding them with cone wrenches, which are very slender and can fit) and tighten a little, spin the hub, tighten a little more, until a little too tight, then back off a little, screw down the lock washer .... I haven't done it in years but that is my memory. And if you go to YouTube you can watch it being done by both pros and skilled amateurs. The wrenches a few dollars each .... imagine how much time and money you would have saved if you bought the tools and watched half-an-hour's worth of videos and did it yourself?
I hardly ever go to a bike shop----wheel-building is the one skill I have yet to tackle. I went to the (Only) local shop, run by people in the local club I used to ride with .... all good guys and girls .... but the mechanic couldn't get my wheel straight. He had issues with the bladed spokes, whatever .... thing is he couldn't do it any better than I could, but he charged me full price. He admitted to his issues and all, which is cool, and I realize, he has to charge me because it took him time and the shop is a business .... but I sure won't ever go there again for Anything.
Most bike mechanical work is simple and straightforward. I am a klutz with a short attention span and pretty thick-headed as well, and I can do all the stuff a shop can, just as well .... it just takes me longer.
If you choose to get victimized by bad people at a bad shop, that is on you. If you can get a refund, go for it ... But you went back for a ten-minute adjustment----which they should have done Immediately because they messed up the first time---and left the bike for a month and accepted delivery while it still wasn't fixed. They are not good people but you let them walk all over you.
Not sayin do it my way, but I would have either left and never gone back after the first time, or I would have demanded---quietly and pleasantly but very firmly---that they fix the bike Right Now (it's a ten--minute job after all) because the repairs were not done or not done correctly.
Also if you have a cell phone, it is really useful to take video of customer service exchanges and of the bike, establishing that at the time of the conversation the bike had the unsolved problems you identified.
But seriously ... if someone kicks me in the nuts twice I don't get within range a third time .... As for going back to a different iteration of the same shop---if they are a chain, contact upper management. Tell the bigger bosses what went on and see if they care. If they don't try to fix things, then you know better than to give them any more of your money or your life.
Anyone who works at a bike shop and cannot adjust a cone-and-cup hub had best only work the register. If they are doing your wrong over and over ... and you keep paying them to do it, and waiting a month each time .... You need to do something differently.
Seriously, you loosen a lock nut, twist two tension nuts (holding them with cone wrenches, which are very slender and can fit) and tighten a little, spin the hub, tighten a little more, until a little too tight, then back off a little, screw down the lock washer .... I haven't done it in years but that is my memory. And if you go to YouTube you can watch it being done by both pros and skilled amateurs. The wrenches a few dollars each .... imagine how much time and money you would have saved if you bought the tools and watched half-an-hour's worth of videos and did it yourself?
I hardly ever go to a bike shop----wheel-building is the one skill I have yet to tackle. I went to the (Only) local shop, run by people in the local club I used to ride with .... all good guys and girls .... but the mechanic couldn't get my wheel straight. He had issues with the bladed spokes, whatever .... thing is he couldn't do it any better than I could, but he charged me full price. He admitted to his issues and all, which is cool, and I realize, he has to charge me because it took him time and the shop is a business .... but I sure won't ever go there again for Anything.
Most bike mechanical work is simple and straightforward. I am a klutz with a short attention span and pretty thick-headed as well, and I can do all the stuff a shop can, just as well .... it just takes me longer.
If you choose to get victimized by bad people at a bad shop, that is on you. If you can get a refund, go for it ... But you went back for a ten-minute adjustment----which they should have done Immediately because they messed up the first time---and left the bike for a month and accepted delivery while it still wasn't fixed. They are not good people but you let them walk all over you.
Not sayin do it my way, but I would have either left and never gone back after the first time, or I would have demanded---quietly and pleasantly but very firmly---that they fix the bike Right Now (it's a ten--minute job after all) because the repairs were not done or not done correctly.
Also if you have a cell phone, it is really useful to take video of customer service exchanges and of the bike, establishing that at the time of the conversation the bike had the unsolved problems you identified.
But seriously ... if someone kicks me in the nuts twice I don't get within range a third time .... As for going back to a different iteration of the same shop---if they are a chain, contact upper management. Tell the bigger bosses what went on and see if they care. If they don't try to fix things, then you know better than to give them any more of your money or your life.
I had a guy whom i've sent bike who had just to put a new shifter,cables/housings and he'd call me for every even small thing that he thought that needs to be replaced or gave me an advice,he sounded really trusty and honest guy,i did wanted to send to him again (for big service) now,but he said why don't i send the bike to the same shop but the one that's closer to my city,and i agreed,thought it's closer i'll get it back sooner but that was a biiiiig mistake.
Just few minutes ago,i went to check if they at least adjusted rear derailleur...i was shaking my head for at least 3 minutes couldn't believe they couldn't even adjust derailleur properly.
Now what i'm gonna do is call this guy i just mentioned (same shop but different city) and send it to him,but before i send it i'll take a pics and video of everything they haven't done properly that was of course put on a list for what i've paid for...just in case someone of them asks for proof what haven't been done properly,and when i get the bike back i'll just call them and demand the refund.I gave i'm sure 30 euros more than i should for nothing,and other than that...the whole season whole summer and nice days i've waited for them to do....nothing lol.
I'm definitely buying the tools and start watching those tutorials and slowly start learning it,first on my older bike.
Thanks for all the advices btw
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Originally Posted by TiHabanero
When the wheels are removed from the bike, do the axles, front or rear, turn, not spin, but turn freely by hand, meaning does one or the other feel bound when turning the axle with your fingers?
Does one axle or the other turn freely, then binds slightly and then turns freely again?
Do the axles, front or rear, feel slightly rough when turned by hand?
Is the axle, front or rear, hard to turn by hand?
There is a lot that goes into a hub adjustment and understanding the limitations of the components on hand.
As for the seals, some of the seals shaped like the ones on your Miche hubs simply rely upon tension between the seal and the lock nut and cone to stay in place. Is this the case with the ones you have?
Does one axle or the other turn freely, then binds slightly and then turns freely again?
Do the axles, front or rear, feel slightly rough when turned by hand?
Is the axle, front or rear, hard to turn by hand?
There is a lot that goes into a hub adjustment and understanding the limitations of the components on hand.
As for the seals, some of the seals shaped like the ones on your Miche hubs simply rely upon tension between the seal and the lock nut and cone to stay in place. Is this the case with the ones you have?
Originally Posted by elcraft
Over-tightened skewers can compress the cones in hubs. One should optimally allow for this compression and leave cones a little one the “loose” side. Also, really sticky grease or an over abundance can initially limit the spin.
In either case, it suggests an inexperienced mechanic.
In either case, it suggests an inexperienced mechanic.
