Does raising your Seat so that you are Tippy Toed at rest offer Benefits?
#52
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Some compensation can be made for the too long crank by spinning more since pedaling harder puts a definite strain on the knee at the start of the down stroke when the crank is too long. Though faster spinning can run into a lactic acid buildup at the knee that hurts too but probably some of the riding difference you're seeing based on height as a taller rider can just power along with the right height.
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Some compensation can be made for the too long crank by spinning more since pedaling harder puts a definite strain on the knee at the start of the down stroke when the crank is too long. Though faster spinning can run into a lactic acid buildup at the knee that hurts too but probably some of the riding difference you're seeing based on height as a taller rider can just power along with the right height.
The observations the person posted and you replied to aren't eyeball measurable just cruising along and seeing people ride. Maybe a lifelong fitter could eyeball it, otherwise it's really just interesting but useless conjecture without measuring the person/bike/cadence.
A longer crank in the same gear requires LESS torque over a longer distance: d = pi*dia, pi * 2*172.5mm > pi * 2*165mm. T = f/d. d1>d2 but F is equal......so T1 is smaller than T2 on the longer crank.
Next.......Crank length is not gearing. Use gearing to regulate power demand, cadence, and speed. For pleasure and fitness riders that aren't doing weird fit tricks with a tri or TT bike, the crank is a fit coordinate. Height, upper leg length, lower leg length, foot size/length. One can simply change gears to regulate the torque and cadence as they please. Also even though you "feel" you're spinning faster or slower on long and short cranks, you're not. The gear ratio is the same. Your foot just travels a different distance around the circle at a different torque.
Short cranks on a TT bike is still mostly a fit thing also, despite often being quoted otherwise. Crank length changes work on hip angle. I say still a fit thing as you can go to short cranks and have a crap bike fit wrt where you're applying force to the pedals relative to your saddle setback, height, and cleat positions.
#54
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Bolded = no.
The observations the person posted and you replied to aren't eyeball measurable just cruising along and seeing people ride. Maybe a lifelong fitter could eyeball it, otherwise it's really just interesting but useless conjecture without measuring the person/bike/cadence.
A longer crank in the same gear requires LESS torque over a longer distance: d = pi*dia, pi * 2*172.5mm > pi * 2*165mm. T = f/d. d1>d2 but F is equal......so T1 is smaller than T2 on the longer crank.
Next.......Crank length is not gearing. Use gearing to regulate power demand, cadence, and speed. For pleasure and fitness riders that aren't doing weird fit tricks with a tri or TT bike, the crank is a fit coordinate. Height, upper leg length, lower leg length, foot size/length. One can simply change gears to regulate the torque and cadence as they please. Also even though you "feel" you're spinning faster or slower on long and short cranks, you're not. The gear ratio is the same. Your foot just travels a different distance around the circle at a different torque.
Short cranks on a TT bike is still mostly a fit thing also, despite often being quoted otherwise. Crank length changes work on hip angle. I say still a fit thing as you can go to short cranks and have a crap bike fit wrt where you're applying force to the pedals relative to your saddle setback, height, and cleat positions.
The observations the person posted and you replied to aren't eyeball measurable just cruising along and seeing people ride. Maybe a lifelong fitter could eyeball it, otherwise it's really just interesting but useless conjecture without measuring the person/bike/cadence.
A longer crank in the same gear requires LESS torque over a longer distance: d = pi*dia, pi * 2*172.5mm > pi * 2*165mm. T = f/d. d1>d2 but F is equal......so T1 is smaller than T2 on the longer crank.
Next.......Crank length is not gearing. Use gearing to regulate power demand, cadence, and speed. For pleasure and fitness riders that aren't doing weird fit tricks with a tri or TT bike, the crank is a fit coordinate. Height, upper leg length, lower leg length, foot size/length. One can simply change gears to regulate the torque and cadence as they please. Also even though you "feel" you're spinning faster or slower on long and short cranks, you're not. The gear ratio is the same. Your foot just travels a different distance around the circle at a different torque.
Short cranks on a TT bike is still mostly a fit thing also, despite often being quoted otherwise. Crank length changes work on hip angle. I say still a fit thing as you can go to short cranks and have a crap bike fit wrt where you're applying force to the pedals relative to your saddle setback, height, and cleat positions.
#55
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I just looked up a women's fit chart for some Liv bikes, two cranks offered. 160 and 165. Men's in the same bike model runs 165 to 175 from smallest to largest offered. Women's is 5mm difference and men's is 10mm. 10mm is a 1/4". You can really see a 3/8" or even less than 1/4" at the "right seat height".
Sorry, no way unless the person is riding a fitting rig indoors right in front of you.
I'd put money on 95% of the time you "notice" this in public, the person has the saddle set at a really really really wrong height or the person is riding a bike that's entirely the wrong size. Yes, some bikes generically toss cranks in the common sizes on smaller/larger sizes........but what I gather here you'd need someone riding a small framed bike with an XL framed bike's crankset. Like putting a 175 on a women's s/m sized frame. Or I'm a guy and wanted to take the dog for a ride in the basket so just hop on my wife's bike instead. Yeah, you can notice that.
For kid bikes falling under the "BSO's" umbrella, yeah, maybe notice that also as some are awful. But for the right frameset size and just 2.5mm or even 5mm of crankset error, c'mon. This is a stretch.
For the wiseguy's, comprise a table guessing each of these cranks.........not all of them being triathletes run a 165.....have fun: this super slomo video would be gift for this guessing game and I still bet you wouldn't be able to tell who does and doesn't run a 165.
Last edited by burnthesheep; 01-23-22 at 03:10 PM.
#56
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go to your LBS and see what they say
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The back of my knees hurt when saddle is too high.
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It depends on your pedaling technique.
If you're recruiting your muscles like you're climbing stairs when pedaling then you are doing the natural rythm like when you are running (strong participation of glute muscles), you are pedaling close enough to running where the legs is best adapted to perform. You don't even need to do "cross-training" with the right pedaling technique because the right pedaling technique will also improve or retain your performance in running and also climbing on foot.
Now, to those who pedal like kicking a wall (quad-heavy user), they like to raise their seat to the heavens. Ridiculously high. It results to overdeveloped quads and may develop knee issues later in life. It compromises the bike's handling as well. While science says the glutes are the biggest muscles in the body, then why many cyclist have seemingly small glutes?? Go figure.
If you're recruiting your muscles like you're climbing stairs when pedaling then you are doing the natural rythm like when you are running (strong participation of glute muscles), you are pedaling close enough to running where the legs is best adapted to perform. You don't even need to do "cross-training" with the right pedaling technique because the right pedaling technique will also improve or retain your performance in running and also climbing on foot.
Now, to those who pedal like kicking a wall (quad-heavy user), they like to raise their seat to the heavens. Ridiculously high. It results to overdeveloped quads and may develop knee issues later in life. It compromises the bike's handling as well. While science says the glutes are the biggest muscles in the body, then why many cyclist have seemingly small glutes?? Go figure.
The question: what sportive activity is less dependent (compensatory) to a mechanical device? And don't say sex.
#62
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I set my seat for leg extension. My feet barely touch the ground on whatever bike im riding.
#63
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Some laughs in here enjoyed those. To those who came to this thread to find answers .. listen to your body.
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Pedaling technique is part of the problem. Just think of the saddle positioning, fore and aft, height etc. They're all related to the pedaling. Then the rider's ability to recruit the muscles to support the torso, another fore and aft saddle positioning. The dynamics go crazy when you think about it. Cycling is making the body adjust to the activity...being on a bike.
The question: what sportive activity is less dependent (compensatory) to a mechanical device? And don't say sex.
The question: what sportive activity is less dependent (compensatory) to a mechanical device? And don't say sex.
#65
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This is the first time I hear the bicycle was not fitted specifically to our body movements.
Post above hit it on the head
With a fractured ankle back 10 years ago i reach a certain limit much faster running than on the bike . And our bodies are meant to walk lol
Also what about the leg press machine at the gym. Similar movement on the bike just with both feet at the same time.
Post above hit it on the head
With a fractured ankle back 10 years ago i reach a certain limit much faster running than on the bike . And our bodies are meant to walk lol
Also what about the leg press machine at the gym. Similar movement on the bike just with both feet at the same time.
#66
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More tiring to have the seat too low but more prone to injury with overstretched ligaments with it too high. HIking is vastly different as all your weight is supported by your body. On a bicycle people use 85% less energy to move as their weight is supported by the bike.
For me it has always been much harder on my legs to go down a steep hill than it was to go up it as my body needs to decelerate with every step. With knee pain it has often been the use of lighter duty boots that provide less lateral support for my feet and put more lateral stress on my knees.
With a new bike I do a 20 minute warmup and then adjust the height of the seat, starting out high and gradually lowering it 1/8 inch each time. When I get to where there is no lateral movement of my hips as I pedal the height is right for me. The fore and aft setting is also important and as I move the seat up I am also moving its relative position horizontally backward as well.
For me it has always been much harder on my legs to go down a steep hill than it was to go up it as my body needs to decelerate with every step. With knee pain it has often been the use of lighter duty boots that provide less lateral support for my feet and put more lateral stress on my knees.
With a new bike I do a 20 minute warmup and then adjust the height of the seat, starting out high and gradually lowering it 1/8 inch each time. When I get to where there is no lateral movement of my hips as I pedal the height is right for me. The fore and aft setting is also important and as I move the seat up I am also moving its relative position horizontally backward as well.
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Why would anyone on a conventional bike need to stand on their tip-toes at rest?

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It is amazing to me how many riders seem to have never been taught (or figured out) to straddle the top bar when stopped. (Here's a bonus: It makes starting again much easier too!)
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