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Stitching Tools
These instructions:
https://web.archive.org/web/20121103040713/https://chefonabicycle.com/2012/10/28/how-to-correctly-patch-a-tube/ seem pretty good. My procedure isn't too different. They use a dedicated stitching tool to press the patch and tube together. When I'm at home I've been using the edge of the cement can, which seems to work ok. I still don't have a good substitute for a stitching tool on the road. What do you use? |
Originally Posted by tessellahedron
(Post 22621015)
I still don't have a good substitute for a stitching tool on the road. What do you use?
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I keep a quarter coin in my saddle bag for that very reason. You get good purchase on the coin and the serrations on the edge help stitch-down the patch. I roll and rub it over the patch.
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Originally Posted by tessellahedron
(Post 22621015)
I still don't have a good substitute for a stitching tool on the road. What do you use?
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I let the glue dry for much longer than you'd expect, and then press the patch on to the tube firmly with my fingers for a couple of minutes. That's enough - the pressure of the tube pressing against the tyre when pumped up provides the rest of the pressure to keep it from moving. (Don't pump the tube up to test it before putting it back in the tyre - it will expand more than the patch can and cause a problem)
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I use my fingers. They have never failed me.
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I patch tubes at home and use a deep socket
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Originally Posted by dedhed
(Post 22624195)
I patch tubes at home and use a deep socket
Very therapeutic. |
Originally Posted by dedhed
(Post 22624195)
I patch tubes at home and use a deep socket
but what about a couple co2 cylinders? I assumed they were too round but if a socket works then maybe they'd be the best "already on the bike" solution. just got two more spare tubes (3 total) so your "patch tubes at home" suggestion is looking more in reach. |
Hold on now, this is crazy talk! A stitching tool??!! The whole point of vulcanizing glue is to chemically bond the patch and tube, so there’s no mechanical bonding required at all. As terrymorse said, it takes very little pressure to apply a vulcanized patch; just finger pressure.
If you need a tool to create a successful patch, you are doing it wrongly. The things one needs to worry about are proper tube prep, applying a sufficient amount of glue, and the exercise of patience. That’s it. I don’t even use glue anymore, only self adhesive patches, and they work well to the point that I can’t recall having one fail, so I don’t know why people mess around with glue-on patches at all anymore. Hell, I’ve had a Lezyne SA patch on a Schwalbe Aerothan TPU tube for 8 or 9 months now… |
Originally Posted by chaadster
(Post 22624321)
Hold on now, this is crazy talk! A stitching tool??!! The whole point of vulcanizing glue is to chemically bond the patch and tube, so there’s no mechanical bonding required at all. As terrymorse said, it takes very little pressure to apply a vulcanized patch; just finger pressure.
If you need a tool to create a successful patch, you are doing it wrongly. The things one needs to worry about are proper tube prep, applying a sufficient amount of glue, and the exercise of patience. That’s it. I don’t even use glue anymore, only self adhesive patches, and they work well to the point that I can’t recall having one fail, so I don’t know why people mess around with glue-on patches at all anymore. Hell, I’ve had a Lezyne SA patch on a Schwalbe Aerothan TPU tube for 8 or 9 months now… I've had patches fail because they appear to have had bubbles underneath. Good pressure from the center out using some sort of tool is my plan to prevent this. I love glueless patches but discovered that you have to follow the directions closely, and they don't seem to work for pinch flats on the inside of the tube (facing spoke nipples). |
This reminds me of the satirical pic (attached) on the Sheldon Brown pages about the “proper” way to clean a chain. Certainly you can acquire all the materials, and go to all the trouble to “stitch” a traditional patch. But isn’t that overkill? I’m with others who’ve said they use the self-adhesive patches like “Skabs.” They work well, last long time for me.
Dan https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...8d5e7f820.jpeg |
I love my stitching tool but edge of a non-reeded coin (USA cent or nickel) is almost as good. Agree key is to let “cement” vulcanizing fluid dry fully.
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Originally Posted by wheelreason
(Post 22621088)
Tire lever, coin, key, rock, in that order.
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I've been using just my fingers this past 50 years. When I've kept the tube relatively clean, decently sanded and let the glue dry enough and located a large enough patch correctly, they've just about always worked. I'm hearing now I've been doing it wrong a very long time.
To me, fingers have it all over those tools. Completely weight weenie-friendly. Very accessible. Take up no space in my tool bags (and I don't need another set for each bike), never get lost or misplaced, work in just about every situation I've ever ridden in. (Well, not so well on the very coldest days but in those days, I rode tubulars in the winter, partly for that reason. Also cyclocross tires, which in those days were all tubular, make excellent snow tires.) And last, I guess I should just read the Rema instructions to see what I should have been doing. |
^ I think Rema says fingernail or coin.
If you are reusing patched tube immediately it matters less as the air pressure in the tube will help apply ongoing pressure to the patch area, but if you “batch patch” like me, I think it helps to use a stronger tool than a fingernail. As always, YMMV. |
The spoke wrench to the above left was kept in my dad’s tool-box/patch kit. It has pressed down a patch or two. There was often fire.
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"Long story short" precedes long story
I take deep breaths |
Originally Posted by datlas
(Post 22624774)
^ I think Rema says fingernail or coin.....
https://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-75...02781043&psc=1 Rema site instructions:https://www.google.com/search?q=rema...0PEP7a2MmAI_18 |
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