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So much resistance to change

Old 01-14-23, 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by rydabent
the thots
Out of all the things you talked about, I definitely like thots the best.
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Old 01-14-23, 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by smd4
Because they feel awesome?
I'm not sure I want to know your definition of awesome.
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Old 01-14-23, 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Lombard
I'm not sure I want to know your definition of awesome.
You know, like being able to feel every atom of road surface? Talk about road feel! Sure beats riding around on heavy under inflated circular couch cushions.
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Old 01-14-23, 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Lombard

So tell me. if 23s are the fastest overall choice, why is the pro peloton riding 28s and 30s?
They’re not. The standard is 25 mm.
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Old 01-14-23, 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by smd4
You know, like being able to feel every atom of road surface? Talk about road feel! Sure beats riding around on heavy under inflated circular couch cushions.
If you like to feelevery atom of road surface, what do you need tires for? Just ride on the rims!
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Old 01-14-23, 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Lombard
If you like to feelevery atom of road surface, what do you need tires for? Just ride on the rims!
Because, obviously, pneumatic tires pumped to a high pressure behave differently than bare rims.

I get it. “Comfort” is a big thing today. I have a 1980s top-end racing bike. I’ll be damned if I ever treat that bike as a limousine.
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Old 01-14-23, 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by smd4
You know, like being able to feel every atom of road surface? Talk about road feel

Weird flex, but OK.

Last edited by Rolla; 01-14-23 at 09:39 PM.
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Old 01-14-23, 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Rolla
Weird flex, but OK.
Weird post, but OK.
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Old 01-14-23, 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by smd4
You know, like being able to feel every atom of road surface? Talk about road feel! Sure beats riding around on heavy under inflated circular couch cushions.
All that road feel is great and all; I have a 3.0 Cannondale Criterium on 23s and that bike feels fast. Very quick, and direct; seems happiest when you're giving it at least 8/10.
GPS says it's not much faster than any of my other bikes , but that comes down to the limits of the engine and gearing.
All that feedback, though gets tiring, and after about an hour, it's not as fun to ride.

It's not always about feeling fast, though. My SoftRide, on 28s is just as fast as the 3.0, and it's that fast at mile 98, when I'd long have got tired of thrashing the Cannondale.

Super-atomic road feel isn't exactly the nee plus ultra of grip and handling either. I'd posit that my old Klein, on it's 54mm slicks (yeah, you read that right) is the most confident hard-surface handler of all my bikes; it doesn't get upset by bumps or surface transitions or debris; even hardpack dirt and gravel. Pretty much anything short of mud and wet grass, it's got so much tread surface that it just sticks.

54mm of sticky grippy goodness
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Old 01-14-23, 09:51 PM
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If I could find slicks in 20 mm I’d run those.

Yep, they feel fast to me. Since I’m not racing, nor looking to ride fast, I’m good with that. They feel great. That’s all I need. Thankfully my bike will never see hard pack or gravel. It’s a road bike.

Last edited by smd4; 01-14-23 at 09:54 PM.
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Old 01-15-23, 05:56 AM
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Originally Posted by smd4
If I could find slicks in 20 mm I’d run those.

Yep, they feel fast to me. Since I’m not racing, nor looking to ride fast, I’m good with that. They feel great. That’s all I need. Thankfully my bike will never see hard pack or gravel. It’s a road bike.
So, you’d rather feel fast than be fast.

That takes “poseur” to a different level.
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Old 01-15-23, 06:41 AM
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Originally Posted by smd4
Thankfully my bike will never see hard pack or gravel. It’s a road bike.
Welp, that’s a shame….
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Old 01-15-23, 06:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Koyote
So, you’d rather feel fast than be fast.

That takes “poseur” to a different level.
I think he's trolling, but then maybe not.
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Old 01-15-23, 07:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Kontact
If cycling isn't driven by fashion, it sure isn't driven by science or sound engineering:
Cycling's a big industry. Saying that it isn't driven by science is a smiliarly a big statement. Cycling isn't driven by ready perfect solutions, but I've yet to see and industry that is.

There is no data that stiff frames are actually more efficient - but more flexible ones have some data showing they are.
Perhaps. Too much stiffness in the rear tringle or actually the seatpost area decreses cornering traction so boo for too stiff aero seatposts.

Ceramic bearings, normally only valued for high rpm/temperature applications are considered valuable to cyclists. Meanwhile clutched drivetrains have noticeable drag.
Are they though? Even though there are expensive products on the market doesn't automatically mean valuable to the sport.

Big road tires are supposed to have less rolling resistance. But that only happens when they are inflated well above what anyone would ride them at. The lowest rolling resistance tire to date remains a skin wall 23c.
Depends on your surface. On track narrow and high pressure is good. On cracked tarmac not so much. Wider in typical riding pressures is more comfortable though and still competetive in RR against narrow tires. But of course there is a taper off point. A slick fatbike tire will never beat a 25mm GP5000 S-TR.

But still the tire itself seems to matter more than the width of it. Fast tires are fast even when wide and slow tires are slow no matter how narrow you shrink them. But again when looking for max speed width and pressure should be dictated by surface conditions.

​​​​​​​Bicycle companies keep building stuff that will almost automatically corrode. Alloy nipples in carbon rims crumble from galvanic corrosion, only to be replaced by bronze nipples that fall apart from the ammonia in tubeless sealant.
Reallly the sealant should never contact nipples, but accidents do happen. Also there are ammonia free sealants out there.

​​​​​​​Campagnolo EPS will destroy its battery if you just let the bike sit without a magnet wrapped around the seat tube. Shimano batteries will fail if you recharge them from the wrong USB - and there was nothing in the manual about that. Warranty applies to neither situation.
Warranty applies in the EU if such things weren't in the manual. And even if they were, warranty can't be voided if the actions required in the manual were out of order.

​​​​​​​Some 1x chainrings will allow the chain to the be put on wrong, and if you ride it like that once the teeth stop retaining the chain.
Which chainrings? I'm not disputing this one. I just would like to know which.

​​​​​​​Some disc caliber flat mounts are a single flat section rather than two raised posts - which makes it impossible to face them for the flat underside of the caliper if they need facing.
This is indeed a problem as is quality control in some disc brake mounts. Really a frame should never need facing of any kind.

​​​​​​​One of the biggest watt savings - much larger than special bearings - is helmet strap that doesn't dangle under your chin. Have helmet straps changed?
Specialized straps are pretty dang nice. So I guess they have...?

​​​​​​​Bikes have never been more prone to creaks originating in the BB, bars, stem, steerer, seat post, dropouts or cranks.
I'm quite certain this isn't true.

In the BB area, depends on the BB. Not as common as typically believed because most BB creaks or clicks are in fact dry pedal threads. Pretty much non existent in threaded BB's.

Where would a bar, stem, steerer creak even originate from? Modern headsets, stems, bars and steerers have far more bolts and surface area and therefore far more clamping area and clamping pressure than the stuff of yore. They have smaller wall thicknesses and larger diameters which can make a smaller sound audible. However that also means they're less bendy and 'creaky' than their predecessors. If correct torques and chemicals are used in these areas they are in no way more noisy. Actually it's the other way round.

Seatposts are also typically larger than they used to be, before things settled down to 27.2mm. Hence less creak potential. Then again longer extensions from frame which put more stress on the clamp area. However that is a massive increase in riding comfort. So with seatposts maybe, but in the end I'll accept the occasional creak as it's quickly solved with a cleanup and regrease. Only happens with the mtb as that is the only bike where grease gets washed away by water and grime etc.

​​​​​​​One of the biggest fitting brands is based on the junk science of KOPS equally peak power/efficiency. As if gravity has anything to do with pedaling. No one has ever been able to replicate this data, yet it is sold as the pinnacle fitting product.
Yeah. The KOPS should just die away.


​​​​​​​And my personal favorite - there is no relationship between sit bone width and the outer width of the saddle.
There is and there isn't depending on a few factors. But really the more important factor is the opening angle of the pubic arch as that effectively dictates the shape one can use. It's pretty difficult to measure without an MRI machine but not entirely impossible.

I can only use saddles which are almost triangular. A friend of mine with a more open arch angle can't use those and needs a more T-shaped profile.

The sitbone width thing only really comes up when riding bikes with a pronouncedly upright riding position (like the dutch omafiets). That's really the only situation where you really sit on the saddle instead of perching on it. However many e-bikes have that riding position so in the future perhaps sitbone width won't be such a useless metric.

In my opinion there isn't one saddle to rule them all. Every riding position needs its own saddle. You can't ride an omafiets with a TT-saddle anymore you can use a brooks B67 on TT-bike.

Originally Posted by Kontact
My informal testing is that lots of tire sizes can conform very nicely to the road if they don't have to do all the work. Ultra stiff rims and ultra stiff disc forks transmit much more road chatter than what they replaced.

Ultra stiff forks isn't actually a disc brake thing (and the forks aren't even that stiff, come on). It's a EU regulation thing. You want to sell a bicycle in the EU, it needs to pass pretty strict safety and stiffness tests. Perhaps bad for comfort (but not by that much really) but good for safety. It's been quite a few years since I last read news of a bike failing and killing someone. Those used to be a lot more common.

The rim thing is an interesting one. Wheels and rims don't really do any vibration dampening or bump smoothing. They wouldn't last very long if they did. In a significant manner anyways. The way a wheel works just doesn't allow for that much flex.
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Old 01-15-23, 08:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Koyote
So, you’d rather feel fast than be fast.
If I’m not racing, please explain the difference. Will I get someplace faster? Who cares? Why, exactly, do I need to “be fast?”
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Old 01-15-23, 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Ironfish653
Welp, that’s a shame….
Uh, no. If I ever want to do that I’ll get an appropriate bike.
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Old 01-15-23, 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Lombard
I think he's trolling, but then maybe not.
Honestly, as a member of several hobbyist forums, I’ve never seen the word “troll” thrown around with such wild abandon. People really don’t seem to know the meaning. Here, it seems to mean any post that someone disagrees with. I’m thinking it has something to do with the advanced age range of the members here.
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Old 01-15-23, 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by smd4
Uh, no. If I ever want to do that I’ll get an appropriate bike.
You only have one bike? That you can only ride on pavement? I feel for you.
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Old 01-15-23, 08:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Ironfish653
You only have one bike? That you can only ride on pavement? I feel for you.
Yep. But it’s a Supercorsa. I feel for you.
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Old 01-15-23, 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by smd4
If I’m not racing, please explain the difference. Will I get someplace faster? Who cares? Why, exactly, do I need to “be fast?”
Why do you choose delusion over reality? i.e., why do you need to “feel” fast?

Originally Posted by Lombard
I think he's trolling, but then maybe not.
Oddly, I think he’s actually serious.
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Old 01-15-23, 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by smd4
Honestly, as a member of several hobbyist forums, I’ve never seen the word “troll” thrown around with such wild abandon. People really don’t seem to know the meaning. Here, it seems to mean any post that someone disagrees with. I’m thinking it has something to do with the advanced age range of the members here.
Lombard was using the term correctly.
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Old 01-15-23, 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Koyote
Why do you choose delusion over reality? i.e., why do you need to “feel” fast?
Dude, you gotta keep up. Do you even remember what you've written? YOU'RE the one who presupposed that "I'd rather feel fast than be fast." I never said such a thing. And you didn't even answer my question, which is typical of you. So who's the "troll?"
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Old 01-15-23, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Koyote
Lombard was using the term correctly.
Nope, he didn't use it correctly. And that doesn't negate the fact that the term is thrown around wildly around here. Along with the "I'm going to put you on my ignore list now." Ooohh. Please don't! I couldn't bear it!
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Old 01-15-23, 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by smd4
Dude, you gotta keep up. Do you even remember what you've written? YOU'RE the one who presupposed that "I'd rather feel fast than be fast." I never said such a thing.
Originally Posted by smd4
Yep, they feel fast to me. Since I’m not racing, nor looking to ride fast, I’m good with that. They feel great. That’s all I need. Thankfully my bike will never see hard pack or gravel. It’s a road bike.
You’re riding tires at a psi that’s actually slower because they “feel fast.” You wrote that.
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Old 01-15-23, 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Koyote
You’re riding tires at a psi that’s actually slower because they “feel fast.” You wrote that.
Again (realizing I won’t get an answer) what’s the difference?
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