hkckoo

https://bikerecyclery.com/nos-suntou...-xc10-xc-9000/
Suntour XC PowerBrake Lever NOS



or another disc brake system, cable or hydraulic (front wheel only), that has a long brake lever 12cm/5 inch

hkckoo

seems like these kind of levers are called 4-finger levers? this one looks promising, although I have no idea how long these magura levers are
https://www.bike24.com/p2318536.html

georges1

Shimano Deore XT 8000 Disc Brakes or Shimano Deore Trekking BL 6000 disc brakes

sjanzeir

These are hydraulic. What the OP is asking for is recommendations for mechanical or cable-actuated hydraulic calipers that'll work with those levers.

bboy314

These levers are short pull, so would work with “road” disc brakes, such as TRP Spyres or Avid bb7 (road version).

Kontact

And they wear on center because both pads move during braking.

hkckoo

this seems like a good solution, price is ok too. so I already have a disc rotor installed, if I buy the disc brakes, then all I need is an appropriate cable to connect to my brake lever? if so, what kind of cable should I be looking for?

sjanzeir

Any regular MTB-type barrel-end inner cable and outer housing will do. If you're so inclined, get a galvanized inner cable and a compressionless outer housing from a reputable brand (I tend to use Clarks inner cables with Jagwire compressionless outers.)

veganbikes

I would certainly not use galvanized cables for anything on any bike. Polished stainless cables are the way to go. Using good quality cables and housing means they will hold up better but more importantly they will give you much better braking for not a lot of money. Galvanized cables are wally-mart bike territory for areas that wouldn't see any rust ever.

I would recommend using the Jagwire Mountain Pro Brake Kit it is pretty cheap considering it is a huge part of your braking and a massive upgrade. With everything nice and smooth and lubricated as that kit is you will have smooth consistent braking and because it is a high quality housing designed for braking it is compressionless and also lighter than their cheaper housing and has Kevlar to keep it more flexible and strong and hopefully last a little longer. The actual cables are polished stainless steel vs coated stuff which will flake off an gum up the works and with the polishing it will be smoother and with cables and housing you want it to be as smooth as possible. Any friction in the system and you won't get a good lever pull and brake feel.

hkckoo

would someone be able to recommend a mechanical disc brake with higher stopping power than spyre slc maybe? recommended disc rotor is 160mm. my rotor is 140mm and I only have brakes on my front wheel, no brakes at the back, i have atypical bike frame, at the back are two smaller wheels, in a sense the bike looks like a tricycle. my current braking system is a drum brake installed on sturmey archer. would spyre slc be a suitable replacement for that?

Germany_chris

How much do you want to spend...

The best modification for more power is to increase the rotor size

sjanzeir

Which entails having to buy new caliper adapters so that they fit the larger rotors (i.e. even more money spent.) So, before you go looking for ways to spend money trying to get more stopping power, you might want to figure out why you think you need more stopping power.

Germany_chris

Adapters are only a couple bucks though

sjanzeir

Yeah, so? It's still an additional cost to consider, which may or may not matter to the OP.

csport

Juin Tech R1. Cable actuated hydraulic brake.

If you are buying a new set of brake calipers you can also swap the levers and go full hydraulic. Isn't the cost of the levers you have significantly smaller than the cost of a new pair of TRP Spyres or Juin Techs or TRP Hy/RD or anything similar?

Russ Roth

Then is your bike designed to handle a disc brake? My experience is that drum brakes use different attachment systems and I've never seen one that was designed to work on a modern disc system, after all, why would a company go with drum brake in the last 2 decades when cable disc have been produced in greater numbers at lower cost?
Maybe post a pic or two of the fork and the attachment points so we can see if any suggestions would even work. Personally, if you can add a disc system, I'd skip the whole cable brake and go full hydraulic, plenty of brands sell just front sets prebled and ready to go. Clarks get decent reviews and can be about 50.00 while magura can be found in the 75-80 and are one of my preferred brands with great stopping power.

hkckoo

I am not against buying a whole new set, I just need the same type of lever on this new set. similarly shaped lever and as long as my current one, as I need to be able to push the brakes directly from a hand position on my bullhorns.

hkckoo

<br />The frame is not made for disc brakes, but I made it work, as I replaced the old sturmey archer geared hub with something current and the new hub only works with disc brakes, so I had to create/mill some metal parts for it to work. I would consider hydraulic brakes, but I only need them for my front wheel and ideally I would not want to mess with the cable adjustment, so the cable needs to be 1.5m long etc, suited for front wheel. dont want o invest additional money into bleeding set and i view it as a messy process that takes a while, would like to avoid this I guess. but if someone makes hyraulic front wheel set ready-made, justi nstall and go, I am happy to try it.

sjanzeir

In that case, just go ahead and get a pre-assembled, pre-bled front brake assembly (lever, hose, caliper) off of Aliexpress for about 15 bucks. If you feel that it needs to be refilled and re-bled in a couple of years' time, you don't even need to bother with that; just replace it with a new one!

GamblerGORD53

Da Hell, OP is still plugging nonsense on a standup scooter. It's impossible to put ANY brakes on this clown mobile's rear wheels. The 2 wheels TILT. How crazy can it get?

Russ Roth

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/.../rp-prod135586
Not sure shipping to you, line might be a little long but often is on plenty of bikes. Comes ready to install according to reviews.

hkckoo

<br />daaamn, why you so salty about my scooter? i guess you would like to be able to pedal long distance just standing up, but you just are not able to and you need to sit down? sturmey archer sucks donkey ballz btw. a company with 100 year old tradition and they dont even have a tutorial/materials on how to service their RX-4 hubs or other current hubs for that matter. they dont even sell simple plastic replacement parts like the sturmey archer cable clamp for example.

BlazingPedals

Without seeing a pic of the scooter in question, how big is the front wheel? If it's 20+ inches, it'll take a 160mm rotor just fine. When I upgraded my bikes to Spyres, the kit came with rotor, adapter, and caliper. Or just use the caliper with the existing rotor and adapter. It'll have a little less stopping power, but you don't want too much power anyway or you'll flip it (high center of gravity, short wheelbase.)

hkckoo

So I wanted to buy TRP Spyres, but could not find it anywhere in EU in stock, I opted for SRAM BB7, because it had many adjustment and positioning methods, supposedly more than hydraulic brakes.
this review states https://www.bikeperfect.com/features...s-best-for-you
but on my brakes, only one pad moves and the other one is still static? I can just adjust the distance of the second pad from rotor, but both pads do not engage at once, only one pad moves. are my BB7s broken or did the article just spout nonsense information?
here is the video how my BB7 pads move when engaged
https://mega.nz/file/0vBEGaCA#XwNzbq...P6hj8WK6aasu2w
I am now not sure if I need to return the brakes or of this is how they are supposed to work. This is my first time having disc brakes.

sjanzeir

Whoever wrote that "drill down" had no idea what they're on about. Your BB7 isn't broken; it really is a single-piston caliper that acts on one pad with the other being stationary (and adjustable.) If you want double-action mechanical calipers, get quality ones such as the TRP (Spyke if your levers are short-pull) or the more obscure - and slightly pricier - Origin8 Vise II (of which there are two versions, R and M.)