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Originally Posted by rsbob
(Post 22837692)
I have known both, and you, sir are no Gatorskin. Have ridden on 4 sets of Gators and 3 sets of Conti 5000s, tubeless and tubed, and in my very humble opinion, what are you smoking?
If I deflate the 5000s to ~85psi the ride approaches the feel of Vittoria at 100 and Veloflex at 110. The Veloflex tires are tubular, the Vittoria both tubular/clincher. 5000 = clincher. Actually I have not ridden a Gatorskin in 20 yrs, so I apologize for that comparison - maybe 'Skins have become even more 'durable' for those who need them. Ride what you please. All Conti's if you're happy. I try most all of them - Schwalbe, Pirelli, Challenge, Mavic, etc. Durability is not a priority for me. Puncture resistance a secondary consideration on all but the tandem which rolls Marathon Plus. Veloflex tubies rule, give them a try. :) |
IT looks like there's something sitting on top of OP's 4-season, blocking view of the tread. The sidewall looks like it took a hit, maybe from a rock. I used to have that problem with GPs in the past - take one stone in a dirty corner and it'd start snapping cords in the sidewalls.
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Originally Posted by BlazingPedals
(Post 22838075)
IT looks like there's something sitting on top of OP's 4-season, blocking view of the tread. The sidewall looks like it took a hit, maybe from a rock. I used to have that problem with GPs in the past - take one stone in a dirty corner and it'd start snapping cords in the sidewalls.
initially did not realize OP has fenders installed until additional pics provided yes - also recall sidewall issue when I ran Conti GP’s back in the 90’s ... due to a run-in with a rock or whatever I avoid rough / gravel type stuff with 32mm GP4S as much as possible - great tire but not the most durable tire for the nastier stuff ... 32mm not sufficient width for that stuff Conti recently introduced a new GP5K AS (All Season) or something like that available in 35mm ... there is also the GP Urban available in 35mm ... 35mm still not ideal not nasty stuff - but better than 32mm |
Originally Posted by PeteHski
(Post 22837932)
That looks very squared off for 300 miles. Have you been running very low pressure?
just looked at my rear 32mm GP4S that has just under 300 miles - still resembles new tire ... |
Originally Posted by t2p
(Post 22838317)
agree
just looked at my rear 32mm GP4S that has just under 300 miles - still resembles new tire ... Taking some time to pull our legs? |
Originally Posted by PeteHski
(Post 22837932)
That looks very squared off for 300 miles. Have you been running very low pressure?
Regards the original post: that sure looks like a cut to me, suggestive of hitting something sharp on the road. The picture quality is not good enough to be sure about that conclusion, but surely the OP can look carefully at the tire and see if it just failed or was cut. I have put nearly 150K miles on GP 4000s and GP 5000s and while I have had sidewall cuts, I never have had a failure due to a manufacturing issue. If that was my tire and I determined it was a cut, I would have ZERO issue booting it and riding it until it wore out (mounted on the rear wheel, since front tires don't wear out). |
Originally Posted by KerryIrons
(Post 22839032)
Actually, low pressure reduces wear because it spreads the scrubbing force over more rubber. It can result in casing damage due to excessive flexing and the tire getting compressed against the rim.
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Originally Posted by PeteHski
(Post 22839075)
That's a debatable comment but I meant that it looks like this tyre may have been running with an unusually wide, square contact patch i.e. at very low pressure. This may or may not be the reason for the sidewall issue. But since it's an isolated patch of damage, it's probably damage from road debris or perhaps a kerb.
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Originally Posted by KerryIrons
(Post 22839082)
Basic physics combined with basic material properties.
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Originally Posted by KerryIrons
(Post 22839082)
Not really debatable. Tire wear (scrubbing of rubber from the tire) is due to the force applied from pedaling. There is a tiny amount of wear from braking forces, but a front tire will die of old age long before it loses enough rubber to be worn out. Since, for a given rider, pedal force on the tire is consistent, lower pressure means a larger contact patch means less scrubbing force per unit area means slower tire wear. Basic physics combined with basic material properties.
I tend to think that with a tire operated at low pressures, giving a much wider contact patch that the sidewall of the tire where that contact patch bulges will be exposed to more gravel and debris laying on the trail. But maybe not. I've not really seen a good cross section view of how that bulge really looks. |
So many threads on Conti tire defects. Not sure whether that's because of some actual QC issues or just because they are one of the biggest sellers out there, so sooner or later, there will be defective ones.
I personally see Conti tires as a religion for some. My view is that there have always been better choices for less $$. |
Originally Posted by Lombard
(Post 22839954)
So many threads on Conti tire defects. Not sure whether that's because of some actual QC issues or just because they are one of the biggest sellers out there, so sooner or later, there will be defective ones.
I personally see Conti tires as a religion for some. My view is that there have always been better choices for less $$. but better for less $$ - probably not too many (?) - but it can depend on the individual rider and conditions most of the tires that perform at Conti’s top level tires will have similar cost |
Originally Posted by t2p
(Post 22839967)
there are other good choices - and many just don’t want or need more expensive tires
but better for less $$ - probably not too many (?) - but it can depend on the individual rider and conditions most of the tires that perform at Conti’s top level tires will have similar cost I can however feel a difference between mid-level tires and entry level budget tires. I guess it's true what they say about diminishing returns. |
Originally Posted by Iride01
(Post 22839171)
Of course it is debatable. But maybe not if you are only focusing on the tread wear side of overall picture.
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Originally Posted by KerryIrons
(Post 22840841)
Tread wear IS tire wear. Tire failure due to casing damage is not tire wear. If you want to posit that tires run at lower pressures fail sooner, you should offer more than conjecture.
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https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...a05d30c6e.jpeg
Originally Posted by Iride01
(Post 22843144)
But the OP's issue isn't treadwear. It was the scuff mark on the sidewall that I thought they ask about. So why is treadwear even a concern for this OP unless some didn't realize that that is a fender on the bike in the original picture and not the tread pattern worn off.
the (second) issue was the tire appeared to be fairly worn / squared given the low miles (picture was provided above - attached again) for reference - I have the same tires / same size with approx same miles and they display almost no visible signs of wear |
Originally Posted by t2p
(Post 22843955)
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...a05d30c6e.jpeg
we finally got past the picture with the fender over the tire ... finally ... I think ... (?) the (second) issue was the tire appeared to be fairly worn / squared given the low miles (picture was provided above - attached again) for reference - I have the same tires / same size with approx same miles and they display almost no visible signs of wear What is more concerning is how much of the pattern is showing wear and where the apparent crease is that makes it looked squared off. I tend to think that the tire pressure isn't monitored and the tire is allowed to go from a more normal inflation where the loops of the pattern barely are in the contact patch to a low inflation where a majority of the loop is part of the contact patch and maybe the tire is bulged out so much while being ridden that the rim is actually making that crease that makes it look squared off. With a tire bulged out that much on the contact patch the sidewall might easily be damaged or get scuffed by stones or other debris. |
That sidewall looks to be where a seam is and may just be excess material. As far as all the concern on the wear, if they carry a load or are a larger rider, I would think that was normal.
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This is what a GP5000 TL sidewall failure looks like.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...a89ab241a4.jpg |
I had Gatorskins with sidewalls that did basically the same. There's something about that mesh-type sidewall material that wants to delaminate where it's joined IMO. I went with Lifeline tires (a CRC house brand) after that and had a horrendous sidewall failure on my way to work, managing to limp in to the office after depleting my puncture repair kit and using my spare tube. Not the same defect--the Lifeline's threads had pulled out of the bead en-masse in one spot--but the lack of quality and need for reliability in commuting (as well as the only available 700x32c tire) led me to a tire that I once swore I'd never ride again. The Schwalbe Marathon. It's a slippery slope to turning your bike into a tractor once you have a failure or two, man, keep the faith.
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Originally Posted by ofajen
(Post 22837870)
Your picture doesn’t resemble the current GP4S. Here is the stock photo, notice the complex tread figuring. Your tire looks smooth to me in your photo. Maybe post other pics of your tire?
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...6addaacfcf.png Otto |
Originally Posted by t2p
(Post 22839967)
there are other good choices - and many just don’t want or need more expensive tires
but better for less $$ - probably not too many (?) - but it can depend on the individual rider and conditions most of the tires that perform at Conti’s top level tires will have similar cost |
Originally Posted by georges1
(Post 22845392)
Hutchinson, Michelin, Panaracer and Schwalbe are good alternatives. As for Vittoria, my father had too many flats with the Vittoria Tecno Twin Tread Kevlar. Tufo, Clement an Veloflex are very expensive and fragile, back in my race days I have seen many people having flats and cuts with these tires brands. Most of the riders in the road cycling pro peloton ride Continental tires/tubulars.I have Continental on two of my four mountain bikes and they take abuse like another tire. My oldest MTB Tires are 2009 Hutchinson Toro Tubeless tires never had a leak nor a single flat with them.
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^^^Despite the name, I've found the Gravelking slicks to be a decent road tire. They weigh less than expected, mount easily and are of consistent quality- no surprises. Made in Japan.:thumb:
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Originally Posted by shelbyfv
(Post 22845893)
^^^Despite the name, I've found the Gravelking slicks to be a decent road tire. They weigh less than expected, mount easily and are of consistent quality- no surprises. Made in Japan.:thumb:
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Originally Posted by georges1
(Post 22845374)
I bought a dozen of gp four seasons tires from bike24 in 700*23 and this one is the genuine tire. Also purchased slime tubes for avoiding flats
Otto |
Originally Posted by rumrunn6
(Post 22836876)
wow almost looks like a manufacture defect?
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Originally Posted by georges1
(Post 22845392)
Most of the riders in the road cycling pro peloton ride Continental tires/tubulars.
"Leading the pack this year [2022] are Continental (6 teams [tubeless and tubular]) and Vittoria (6 teams [tubular]) among the 22 participating teams. The rest are made up of Pirelli (4 teams [tubular]), Specialized (3 teams [clinchers!]), Michelin (2 teams [not specified]) and Maxxis (1 team [tubeless])." |
Originally Posted by Trakhak
(Post 22847388)
Had to look that up. From this page:
"Leading the pack this year [2022] are Continental (6 teams [tubeless and tubular]) and Vittoria (6 teams [tubular]) among the 22 participating teams. The rest are made up of Pirelli (4 teams [tubular]), Specialized (3 teams [clinchers!]), Michelin (2 teams [not specified]) and Maxxis (1 team [tubeless])." |
Originally Posted by Steel Charlie
(Post 22836938)
I've had the wire pull out of the bead on three Conti's. I don't use them on anything now.
YMMV of course |
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