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Originally Posted by Calsun
(Post 22845325)
This is silly advice. I put a 2" receiver on my 2022 Rav4 so I could use my 1up bike rack on it. I installed a Curt Class III 2" hitch receiver and paid $214.61 to buy it from etrailer.com (a great source for tow products and advice). The more expensive hitches included a connector and wiring for use with a trailer which I did not need for the Rav4. For towing I have a F-150 pickup truck.
Much simpler to have one bike rack that works easily with both vehicles and no adapter needed. Often a hitch adapter makes the bike rack stick further back and the mount can be lower to the ground and more likely to scrape. One thing I like about the 1up bike rack is that the bike mounts increase in ground clearance the further back they are so the second bike is higher than the first and if a third platform is added it is even higher and has more ground clearance. Receiver class only comes into play when one is towing and the receiver needs to be able to handle the maximum load based on the tow rating of the vehicle's manufacturer. If the receiver can handle a great load that is not going to be a problem. Towing capacity We do not recommend using this vehicle for trailer towing. Rav4 is rated 3500# which is why a class III is available FWIW my rack does the adapting, not the hitch |
I wonder if it is for different models of Elantra. They had a sedan and hatchback and I wonder if those are for the different models maybe?
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The two hitches mount differently.
The 24939 has 4 bolts (all vertical), likely directly to the frame and also likely, the easier installation. The 24964 has 6 bolts, 2 vertical and 4 horizontal. This installation may require a partial/full bumper removal or bumper interference. Are you installing, go 939 Someone else installing, go 964 I also endorse the etrailer vendor Their customer service is top notch. |
Originally Posted by canalligators
(Post 22841822)
Either would be more than adequate for a bike carrier, or even a light utility trailer. Both class 1 with1 1/4” receiver. One might fit better or be easier to install on your particular car.
Note that some bike carriers use a 2” receiver. To use one of these, you would need an adapter, an extra expense. |
Both hitches have 6-bolts (3 per side). Go with the 24939, much cleaner mount. I would also recommend the 2" receiver, much more versatile (and you can always get an adaptor). Draw-Tite makes great hitches (made in Plymouth, MI), their QC and aftermarket support is great. E-Trailer will be the cheapest place to get it, they are easy to install (for the most part), E-Trailer will have an installation video, they will also have an installation video for the wiring harness. But I am bias, as I use to be one of the three engineers that designed the hitches for Draw-Tite.
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Originally Posted by Koyote
(Post 22841826)
Just fyi: I bought my last hitch from this site:https://www.etrailer.com/
I ordered the Curt hitch from e-trailer, had it sent directly to me, then had my independent mechanic install it. I also recommend getting a 2 inch receiver rather than a 1 1/4 inch. |
fwiw
class I can only carry 2 bikes max I had U-Haul install a class II 1 1/4" hitch so I could carry 4 bikes. it was great. even survived a rear end collision, that destroyed my rack & dented my hatch. fixed the hatch but no repairs were needed on the hitch |
Thanks all for the great advice! The hitch was successfully installed but I am now having an issue connecting my bike rack to the hitch so I am returning here for more advice.
There is not enough physical clearance for me to insert a clip into its hitch pin to keep the hitch and rack securely connected - see the attached pictures (a generic one and one of the underside of my car). There is so little clearance that I can't insert the clip into the hitch pin the proper way or even upside down or sideways. The hitch pin is just a standard threaded 1/2 inch pin. This there a much smaller style clip, or some other attachment, I can use in this situation? https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...57b1768194.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...405b913d88.jpg |
Originally Posted by DC_Cycle
(Post 22867250)
Thanks all for the great advice! The hitch was successfully installed but I am now having an issue connecting my bike rack to the hitch so I am returning here for more advice.
There is not enough physical clearance for me to insert a clip into its hitch pin to keep the hitch and rack securely connected - see the attached pictures (a generic one and one of the underside of my car). There is so little clearance that I can't insert the clip into the hitch pin the proper way or even upside down or sideways. The hitch pin is just a standard threaded 1/2 inch pin. This there a much smaller style clip, or some other attachment, I can use in this situation? https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...57b1768194.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...405b913d88.jpg You should be able to rotate a standard hitch pin to align the clip hole for insertion, although some chain attachment loops are so close to the receiver that you might have to straighten out the bend in the standard pin somewhat for it to rotate (more of a problem with 1 1/4" receivers). A photo of the other (left) side could be helpful. |
The left end of the pin is threaded but the pin is not threaded all the way through to the right end - that's why the visible portion of the pin in my prior photo lacks threads. I'm attaching an image of the pin and clip (and washer) taken from the manufacturer's website (low quality image unfortunately). I tried the "insert and rotate" method with the clip but there is not enough clearance even for that.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...14bfdf6cda.jpg |
Do you just need a smaller pin?
https://www.harborfreight.com/5-8-ei...lip-65432.html |
Originally Posted by DC_Cycle
(Post 22867384)
The left end of the pin is threaded but the pin is not threaded all the way through to the right end - that's why the visible portion of the pin in my prior photo lacks threads. I'm attaching an image of the pin and clip (and washer) taken from the manufacturer's website (low quality image unfortunately). I tried the "insert and rotate" method with the clip but there is not enough clearance even for that.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...14bfdf6cda.jpg The other recommendation is the "brute force" option: get a 5/8" drill and just blast thru the rack hole and use a standard hitch pin. This also allows for a simple locking system, if you drill out the pin for a lock shackle diameter: https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...f2dc7571b.jpeg |
There are two types of hitch pins. Some have grooves that the clip clips into. And some have holes. I think the ones with holes are more secure. However, the ones with grooves wouldn't be as sensitive to angles of the pin.
That stepped pin above looks a little odd. |
Thanks for the suggestions. Attached is a close up of the hinge pin (threaded on the left side, but not the right as I mentioned).
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...61e06a1236.jpg |
There is no factory hitch provided on a new Toyota and the owner needs to buy and install one for the car. For the Rav4 I mentioned the max tow limit specified by Toyota is 2500 gross pounds (trailer and load weight total). Never a good idea to make assumptions and it is foolish to do so when the necessary information is so easy to find if one bothers to do so.
It is the federal government that regulates towing and hitch class designations. Those who have spent any time manufacturing a product subject to load or torque stress know that there are safe limits where a part will not fail and will let its customers know what the limits are. People are always free to act in a reckless and stupid manner and that has nothing to do with lawyers. But one should appreciate that there are many many frivolous lawsuits filed in the courts where people have acted in an unsafe manner and then want to blame anyone but themselves for the bad outcome. |
Originally Posted by DC_Cycle
(Post 22867676)
Thanks for the suggestions. Attached is a close up of the hinge pin (threaded on the left side, but not the right as I mentioned).
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...61e06a1236.jpg Have you tried inserting the pin "in-line" with the bolt? That should address any clearance issues. |
You don’t have to use the clip as provided. Like Mojo31 said, the threaded end of the bolt is doing the work holding the rack to the receiver. The clip is secondary retention; it keeps the pin from falling out in the event that it were to loosen up and unscrew itself.
Anything that would fit through the hole in the pin, but be too big to pull through the side of the receiver would be sufficient. A split ring, like you find on a keychain, would do okay You could also also use a thicker washer or a “jam nut” under the head of the bolt, to change the “clocking” of the hole, so you can use the OE clip. |
Originally Posted by DC_Cycle
(Post 22867676)
the hinge pin (threaded on the left side, but not the right as I mentioned).
Anything else is a potential law suit. If you have concerns, in my honest opnion is to ask whoever you gave your money to, instead of hearsay from strangers on the internet. |
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