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Cold setting
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Originally Posted by robalong
(Post 22889301)
I've done this a few times, after seeking out info online. However, I've never come across this wee factoid that came to mind during my last cold-setting adventure. Seems one can buy an internal expander, to achieve the desired effect ... widen the gap using the adjusting nuts until the gap is greater than desired but springs back to the correct gap. Something like that.
Here is my technique, that can be applied to widening or narrowing the gap. This example deals with widening: Rear fork width - 126mm Desired fork width - 130mm Difference - 4mm So, I bend one side until the gap is 128mm, taking care not to alter the position of the other side. Then I bend the other side until the gap is 130mm, taking care not to alter the other side. Result! Gap widened perfectly in line with the frame. I genuinely have never seen this mathematical method outlined in detail anywhere online. Sometimes, it seems to be inferred as 'obvious', but never explained in words and simple maths. I hope this will be useful to someone. Cheers! |
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OK, sorry. I thought you were posting about some new method you'd discovered. :foo:
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I still like to do the check with the main diamond. (ie the string test or similar.) Should completely confirm what you are saying but in the real world, often that redundant check finds something that would have slipped under the radar otherwise.
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this is the sheldon browm method more or less
and as a reminder steel frames only https://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html |
And I still don't see how it guarantees that you're only changing the side you want to change....
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"I bent & stomped, and it turned out great!
But I wonder what that '753' sticker means?" :D (Disclosure: I have cold-set many triangles, with mostly successful results.) |
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Originally Posted by philbob57
(Post 22889540)
And I still don't see how it guarantees that you're only changing the side you want to change....
IMHO this is way better that trying the rod and nut approach as between things like dimples for chain ring clearance there is not guaranteed even movement |
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You don't mention checking the dropouts (fork ends) for being parallel after your cold set.
I once had a used bike that had funky handling. I took it to a competent shop with dropout alignment cup-tools and they straightened the dropouts to parallel. The handling was transformed! A much better ride was the result. I'm not knocking anyone's skills here. But anyone who can tie a pair of shoes could follow that string alignment procedure. It takes top skills to produce a nicely riding bicycle. From now on, I take all my used bike purchases to a professional frame maker for alignment. |
Of course, steel is springy, so you have to bend it much more than 2 mm to get it to eventually stay 2 mm wider .... per side.
yeah, Sheldon Brown advocated this method decades ago .... and I am quite sure he didn't invent it. I have had good luck with the threaded rod method, however .... whatever get you where you want to be ..... |
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If you're providing most of the replies to your own thread, perhaps you need to start a blog.
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Originally Posted by shelbyfv
(Post 22889317)
:thumb:You might post some pics showing how you isolate one chainstay from the other when using the expander.
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Originally Posted by philbob57
(Post 22889540)
And I still don't see how it guarantees that you're only changing the side you want to change....
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Originally Posted by robalong
(Post 22890760)
Heavy rain today, so pix tomorrow. Forecast sunny.
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