Waxing Chain Just Trend or usefull?
#76
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Hello,
I'm currently thinking to wax my new bike (arroves in one month). Currently I only use Lube on all of my bikes, but I have heard, that waxing is better than lubing, because of the consumption of chains. It waxing really good or is it just a new trend and don't have any advantages? What are your experiences with waxing your chain and would you recommend it? And what chain wax do you use?
I'm currently thinking to wax my new bike (arroves in one month). Currently I only use Lube on all of my bikes, but I have heard, that waxing is better than lubing, because of the consumption of chains. It waxing really good or is it just a new trend and don't have any advantages? What are your experiences with waxing your chain and would you recommend it? And what chain wax do you use?
#77
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Tests have shown that chains do actually last longer with wax, mainly because they stay cleaner as you have observed. At least in dry conditions. Wax tends not to perform so well in the wet.
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Another chain waxing thread. How adorable.

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#82
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#83
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In my experience, they actually do last quite a bit longer, under the conditions I ride at least. Anything other than wax under these conditions, the "filth" you mention becomes a grinding paste, and I was constantly replacing chain rings, cassettes and chains until I switched over to wax.
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#86
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Time is money (I could be working and making money). Waxing is time consuming. My time is worth much more money than even the most expensive top level groupset. The cost of worn part replacement is simply not a concern compared to wasted time. For a $10k+ bike with a top end drivetrain, I get it. It's psychological, even if it makes no sense from a time/money calculation perspective. Any cheaper bike and it's a hard no.
I suppose I could pay someone else to wax my chain and come out ahead. They'd have to come to my house though because if I had to take my bike to a shop and pick it up later, there's that time wasted again.
In conclusion: no.
I suppose I could pay someone else to wax my chain and come out ahead. They'd have to come to my house though because if I had to take my bike to a shop and pick it up later, there's that time wasted again.
In conclusion: no.
Last edited by Yan; 09-11-23 at 07:27 AM.
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Time is money (I could be working and making money). Waxing is time consuming. My time is worth much more money than even the most expensive top level groupset. The cost of worn part replacement is simply not a concern compared to wasted time. For a $10k+ bike with a top end drivetrain, I get it. It's psychological, even if it makes no sense from a time/money calculation perspective. Any cheaper bike and it's a hard no.
I suppose I could pay someone else to wax my chain and come out ahead. They'd have to come to my house though because if I had to take my bike to a shop and pick it up later, there that time wasted again.
In conclusion: no.
I suppose I could pay someone else to wax my chain and come out ahead. They'd have to come to my house though because if I had to take my bike to a shop and pick it up later, there that time wasted again.
In conclusion: no.
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#90
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Mine have at least tripled. More importantly, it has reduced wear on my cassettes and chainrings.
I recognize I ride under more extreme conditions than average, but it has made a huge difference. If it made no difference, I wouldn't bother.
I recognize I ride under more extreme conditions than average, but it has made a huge difference. If it made no difference, I wouldn't bother.
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Time is money (I could be working and making money). Waxing is time consuming. My time is worth much more money than even the most expensive top level groupset. The cost of worn part replacement is simply not a concern compared to wasted time. For a $10k+ bike with a top end drivetrain, I get it. It's psychological, even if it makes no sense from a time/money calculation perspective. Any cheaper bike and it's a hard no.
I suppose I could pay someone else to wax my chain and come out ahead. They'd have to come to my house though because if I had to take my bike to a shop and pick it up later, there's that time wasted again.
In conclusion: no.
I suppose I could pay someone else to wax my chain and come out ahead. They'd have to come to my house though because if I had to take my bike to a shop and pick it up later, there's that time wasted again.
In conclusion: no.
The process basically is however long it takes to disconnect and remove a chain, and then put it back on. With quick links, this takes about 30 seconds. The rest of the process involves a chain sitting in a pot while it heats up and/or hanging on a hook drying.
#92
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The Zero Friction lubricant tests with no contamination still showed wax lubes greatly reduced wear over non-wax lubes.
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Well I did say "mainly", maybe I should have said "partly". One thing that is clear from those tests is that a dirty drivetrain greatly accelerates wear.
#94
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Actual scientific testing---serious testing, not the anecdotal BS most internet users seem to think is "science"---indicates clearly that waxed chains last longer than unwaxed chains--and save a tiny bit of power as well.
The question is whether the trade-off for the very slightly more involved process is justified by the better performance and extend drive train length. That is entirely a personal matter, not subject to science---it is a matter of opinion. It is a matter of personal preference. Even speaking as a chain-waxer, I would say the benefits are so minimal that wet-lube, drip-wax, and cooked wax are all valid choices.
However, the facts have been amply demonstrated---the cleanest way to lubricate one's bike chain is wax and the longest-lasting chain 9and thus also drive train parts, by some not-yet-determined degree) and also the least power-robbing chain is one which has been properly waxed.
The question is whether the trade-off for the very slightly more involved process is justified by the better performance and extend drive train length. That is entirely a personal matter, not subject to science---it is a matter of opinion. It is a matter of personal preference. Even speaking as a chain-waxer, I would say the benefits are so minimal that wet-lube, drip-wax, and cooked wax are all valid choices.
However, the facts have been amply demonstrated---the cleanest way to lubricate one's bike chain is wax and the longest-lasting chain 9and thus also drive train parts, by some not-yet-determined degree) and also the least power-robbing chain is one which has been properly waxed.
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I really don't understand this take. I spend about the same amount of time with hot wax as I did with wiping/re-applying wet-lube.
The process basically is however long it takes to disconnect and remove a chain, and then put it back on. With quick links, this takes about 30 seconds. The rest of the process involves a chain sitting in a pot while it heats up and/or hanging on a hook drying.
The process basically is however long it takes to disconnect and remove a chain, and then put it back on. With quick links, this takes about 30 seconds. The rest of the process involves a chain sitting in a pot while it heats up and/or hanging on a hook drying.
I also know a shop who offers a chain waxing service on rotation. They sell you 3 new, freshly waxed chains and you post them back after each use.
#96
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I did. "Tests show blah, blah, blah". No, I have yet to hear from anybody here that they can get north of 10K miles using hot wax. I get anywhere between 8-10K miles out of my chains using oil based lubes. Furthermore, can you go 500 miles between hot waxings and get that kind of mileage?
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i have to dispute this as well. Back when I used wax lubes, I was lucky to get 2-3K miles out of my chains. Now thst I use oil based lubes, I get 8-10K miles.
#98
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My observations of my own own bikes using wax-based drip lube, compared with my previous use of oil-based lubes, support this conclusion. I'm not a scientist, and I do not have a laboratory.
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With completely pristine, on-road conditions, the difference is probably negligible.
Under the conditions I ride (dry moon-dust, sand, grit), a non-wax lubricant quickly becomes a highly destructive grinding paste. There may be some formulations that minimize this, such as the ones that are designed to leave a dried teflon coating, but for those that I have tried, they still get dirty, and are much more of a PITA to work with (not to mention more toxic).
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