Waxing Chain Just Trend or usefull?
#101
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Personally, I don't care much about variations in longevity. I'm lucky if I ride 5k miles per year, and that's shared among 5 different bikes (including trainer). I'm not burning through chains fast enough for me to give a damn about chain lifespan. For me, I like drip-wax because it's easy, clean, and data says I get an extra couple watts of zoomies when I use it.
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Hello,
I'm currently thinking to wax my new bike (arroves in one month). Currently I only use Lube on all of my bikes, but I have heard, that waxing is better than lubing, because of the consumption of chains. It waxing really good or is it just a new trend and don't have any advantages? What are your experiences with waxing your chain and would you recommend it? And what chain wax do you use?
I'm currently thinking to wax my new bike (arroves in one month). Currently I only use Lube on all of my bikes, but I have heard, that waxing is better than lubing, because of the consumption of chains. It waxing really good or is it just a new trend and don't have any advantages? What are your experiences with waxing your chain and would you recommend it? And what chain wax do you use?
FWIW, Both my road bikes and my CX/Gravel bike all sport waxed chains, and I've seen the benefits.
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I had the 180° opposite experience, and it would be interesting to try to reconcile two sets of admittedly anecdotal observations.
Here are a few of my very anecdotal observations:
1. Using a new chain and completely removing the oil it is packaged in is fairly critical. If you don't get all of the oil off, the wax doesn't adhere.
2. If you use mineral spirits to clean off the oil, the more you can remove the mineral spirits, the longer the first waxing will last. (I found this out the hard way, because I reasoned that mineral spirits was similar to paraffin, so its presence shouldn't matter, but it did. It made the wax on the chain softer, and it didn't last very long.)
3. I just melt canning wax (paraffin) in a little crock pot, and dump the chain in, and swirl it around occasionally while it sits in there for about 30 min. Then I pull it out, hang it on a nail to cool off, and then put it on the bike. The new wax should make the chain stiff enough to thread through the front derailleur. I thread it through everything, and then put the quick-link on, and pedal it on the stand for a minute or two while I shift through all the gears, and it is ready to go. With no water on it, I usually change the chain after 200 to 300 miles. If I get fine moon-dust in it, and it starts to make noise, I change it at the end of the ride. I have 2 or 3 chains going at one time, so I don't have to melt wax that frequently.
4. I've found lubes like White Lightning to be worthless.
5. I've used Squirt, which is just a mixture of water, paraffin, and slack wax (a paraffin synthetic precursor). I've found it works ok, but has a tendency to ball up into snot-like clumps, which annoys me, so I only use it as a backup.
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My experience with Silca Super Secret drip-wax is not at all like this.
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Goalpost, consider yourself moved.

Many people here have said their chains last longer using wax. So either you didn’t read them, or you’re deliberately ignoring them.
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If you only managed 2-3k miles on wax then you did something wrong. But seems like oil based lubes work for you. I still have one road bike using an oil based lube, but it requires considerably more effort to keep the drivetrain clean. So I’m planning to switch it back to wax over winter. Chain wear has never been a big issue for me with either lube. But wax is definitely cleaner.
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May I ask how/what you used, and how you applied it?
I had the 180° opposite experience, and it would be interesting to try to reconcile two sets of admittedly anecdotal observations.
Here are a few of my very anecdotal observations:
1. Using a new chain and completely removing the oil it is packaged in is fairly critical. If you don't get all of the oil off, the wax doesn't adhere.
2. If you use mineral spirits to clean off the oil, the more you can remove the mineral spirits, the longer the first waxing will last. (I found this out the hard way, because I reasoned that mineral spirits was similar to paraffin, so its presence shouldn't matter, but it did. It made the wax on the chain softer, and it didn't last very long.)
3. I just melt canning wax (paraffin) in a little crock pot, and dump the chain in, and swirl it around occasionally while it sits in there for about 30 min. Then I pull it out, hang it on a nail to cool off, and then put it on the bike. The new wax should make the chain stiff enough to thread through the front derailleur. I thread it through everything, and then put the quick-link on, and pedal it on the stand for a minute or two while I shift through all the gears, and it is ready to go. With no water on it, I usually change the chain after 200 to 300 miles. If I get fine moon-dust in it, and it starts to make noise, I change it at the end of the ride. I have 2 or 3 chains going at one time, so I don't have to melt wax that frequently.
4. I've found lubes like White Lightning to be worthless.
5. I've used Squirt, which is just a mixture of water, paraffin, and slack wax (a paraffin synthetic precursor). I've found it works ok, but has a tendency to ball up into snot-like clumps, which annoys me, so I only use it as a backup.
I had the 180° opposite experience, and it would be interesting to try to reconcile two sets of admittedly anecdotal observations.
Here are a few of my very anecdotal observations:
1. Using a new chain and completely removing the oil it is packaged in is fairly critical. If you don't get all of the oil off, the wax doesn't adhere.
2. If you use mineral spirits to clean off the oil, the more you can remove the mineral spirits, the longer the first waxing will last. (I found this out the hard way, because I reasoned that mineral spirits was similar to paraffin, so its presence shouldn't matter, but it did. It made the wax on the chain softer, and it didn't last very long.)
3. I just melt canning wax (paraffin) in a little crock pot, and dump the chain in, and swirl it around occasionally while it sits in there for about 30 min. Then I pull it out, hang it on a nail to cool off, and then put it on the bike. The new wax should make the chain stiff enough to thread through the front derailleur. I thread it through everything, and then put the quick-link on, and pedal it on the stand for a minute or two while I shift through all the gears, and it is ready to go. With no water on it, I usually change the chain after 200 to 300 miles. If I get fine moon-dust in it, and it starts to make noise, I change it at the end of the ride. I have 2 or 3 chains going at one time, so I don't have to melt wax that frequently.
4. I've found lubes like White Lightning to be worthless.
5. I've used Squirt, which is just a mixture of water, paraffin, and slack wax (a paraffin synthetic precursor). I've found it works ok, but has a tendency to ball up into snot-like clumps, which annoys me, so I only use it as a backup.
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Let's get the goal post back to where it started, shall we?
YOU DIDN'T ASK FOR NUMBERS WHEN YOU WROTE THIS:
So either you haven't read the posts here that are claiming a longer chain life, or you've deliberately ignored them. I'm going with the latter. Neither one is a good look for you.
YOU DIDN'T ASK FOR NUMBERS WHEN YOU WROTE THIS:
So either you haven't read the posts here that are claiming a longer chain life, or you've deliberately ignored them. I'm going with the latter. Neither one is a good look for you.
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Let's get the goal post back to where it started, shall we?
YOU DIDN'T ASK FOR NUMBERS WHEN YOU WROTE THIS:
So either you haven't read the posts here that are claiming a longer chain life, or you've deliberately ignored them. I'm going with the latter. Neither one is a good look for you.
YOU DIDN'T ASK FOR NUMBERS WHEN YOU WROTE THIS:
So either you haven't read the posts here that are claiming a longer chain life, or you've deliberately ignored them. I'm going with the latter. Neither one is a good look for you.
#116
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> 5,000 miles on (hot) waxed chains
vs
< 1,500 using conventional chain lubes
vs
< 1,500 using conventional chain lubes
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#118
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I've tried to give you the benefit of the doubt and have described what I do in detail, as well as the limitations I have observed.
How on earth can you interpret that as "gas-lighting"? Do you know what the term means?
How on earth can you interpret that as "gas-lighting"? Do you know what the term means?
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You may be in the habit of logging your chain mileage, but I'd bet a reasonable amount of money that most people do not keep track very closely at all. Also, the variations in riding conditions between one rider and the next make those kinds of comparisons fairly useless. You say you get more mileage out of an oil-based lube compared to the wax-based lube you used years ago. Polaris says he is getting more miles from his waxed chain. Both of these can be 100% accurate. IMO, the best way to make a true comparison between lube performance is in a controlled environment, such as what ZFC has done. ZFC's results are pretty clear. No relocation of goalposts required.
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You may be in the habit of logging your chain mileage, but I'd bet a reasonable amount of money that most people do not keep track very closely at all. Also, the variations in riding conditions between one rider and the next make those kinds of comparisons fairly useless. You say you get more mileage out of an oil-based lube compared to the wax-based lube you used years ago. Polaris says he is getting more miles from his waxed chain. Both of these can be 100% accurate. IMO, the best way to make a true comparison between lube performance is in a controlled environment, such as what ZFC has done. ZFC's results are pretty clear. No relocation of goalposts required.
However, if you aren't logging your mileage, how do you know chain lube method A lasts longer than chain lube method B?
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I've said it several times previously, and have provided exhaustive detail, including pros and cons, of the procedure I have used.
You, on the other hand, have provided only one sentence snippy dismissals and a false accusation of "gas-lighting."
Is it really that difficult for you?
Much more importantly, I haven't had to replace a cassette or chainring since I started waxing.
The "> 5K" is a lower-bound estimate, btw, because I run at least two chains in rotation, and I last replaced the chains when I got a second wheel-set and a new cassette as a conservative and probably needless precaution. (At that time I also purchased a replacement for the cassette for wheel-set #1, but it turned out there was no evidence that I needed it.)
You, on the other hand, have provided only one sentence snippy dismissals and a false accusation of "gas-lighting."
Is it really that difficult for you?
Much more importantly, I haven't had to replace a cassette or chainring since I started waxing.
The "> 5K" is a lower-bound estimate, btw, because I run at least two chains in rotation, and I last replaced the chains when I got a second wheel-set and a new cassette as a conservative and probably needless precaution. (At that time I also purchased a replacement for the cassette for wheel-set #1, but it turned out there was no evidence that I needed it.)
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I've said it several times previously, and have provided exhaustive detail, including pros and cons, of the procedure I have used.
You, on the other hand, have provided only one sentence snippy dismissals and a false accusation of "gas-lighting."
Is it really that difficult for you?
Much more importantly, I haven't had to replace a cassette or chainring since I started waxing.
The "> 5K" is a lower-bound estimate, btw, because I run at least two chains in rotation, and I last replaced the chains when I got a second wheel-set and a new cassette as a conservative and probably needless precaution. (At that time I also purchased a replacement for the cassette for wheel-set #1, but it turned out there was no evidence that I needed it.)
You, on the other hand, have provided only one sentence snippy dismissals and a false accusation of "gas-lighting."
Is it really that difficult for you?
Much more importantly, I haven't had to replace a cassette or chainring since I started waxing.
The "> 5K" is a lower-bound estimate, btw, because I run at least two chains in rotation, and I last replaced the chains when I got a second wheel-set and a new cassette as a conservative and probably needless precaution. (At that time I also purchased a replacement for the cassette for wheel-set #1, but it turned out there was no evidence that I needed it.)
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