Waxing Chain Just Trend or usefull?
#126
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I'm in the middle of documenting mileage using wax. Much to the chagrin of the same people that want real life numbers. I'll keep doing it though. Of course it's going to take a while. I have around 1300 miles so far. I'm mostly keeping "let's talk waxing" updated on RBR. I think my next waxing I'll update the thread here. That's "Lets talk waxing" on this site. So far I think it's great. It's so convenient and it seems to work great. Of course only mileage will tell.
#127
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I have never made any claims about one type of lube lasting longer than another, other than referencing ZFC’s testing. My re-lube frequency is pretty much the same with wax-based vs. oil-based. My preference for wax-based lube isn’t related to which lube lasts longer from ride to ride. The difference in collection of grit in the drivetrain during the ride, the type of gunk that builds up, and the cleanliness with handling it matter to me.
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#128
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You may be in the habit of logging your chain mileage, but I'd bet a reasonable amount of money that most people do not keep track very closely at all. Also, the variations in riding conditions between one rider and the next make those kinds of comparisons fairly useless. You say you get more mileage out of an oil-based lube compared to the wax-based lube you used years ago. Polaris says he is getting more miles from his waxed chain. Both of these can be 100% accurate. IMO, the best way to make a true comparison between lube performance is in a controlled environment, such as what ZFC has done. ZFC's results are pretty clear. No relocation of goalposts required.
#129
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I do find it strange that there are people argumenting so strongly that oil based lubes don't make a mess and if they do, you're doing it wrong.
Perhaps that is the case if one only rides in good conditions and only does very infrequent wet rides. In those instances a very light oil that doesn't attract grime can work well and probably doesn't make much of a mess.
However if you live somewhere where for a few months of the year there isn't such a thing as a dry ride as the roads are constantly wet AND you ride every single day, light oil isn't going to cut it even if you apply it daily. I've tried.
Heavier oil works better but that then gunks up the chain and drive train and yet it doesn't prevent rusting in salty conditions. Also when it gets cold enough heavier oil becomes a literal drag as it stiffens into the consistency of grease.
Wax works best from the options I've tried so far. Stays clean no matter what time of the year it is and it lubricates longer than any oil I've tried. A few winters back the conditions got so dreary, that the wife's commuter's chain would start squeaking in two days after a full clean and relube, no matter what oil was used.
We would eat through drivetrains on a yearly basis, because I didn't have the time to spend every moment of my free time cleaning bikes that had gotten salt soaked by the days commute. The wife also didn't have the motivation to dry, clean and relube the bike at her workplace after every salt watery ride, ie. pretty much every day from november to march.
Wax doesn't prevent surface rust on the outside of the chain, but you get rid of that by boiling the chains in water before dunking them in wax (just learned that a few weeks ago).
On the topic of salt, it's apparently kinda important that one gets it out of the chain. If you just pour oil over it the chain keeps on rusting. So you either need to wash the chain (which I personally find to be a major hassle) or you can dunk it boiling water (which I find to be a lot easier). Don't know how boiling a chain would work with an oiled chain but it works really well with waxed ones.
So I would argue that wax does in fact work best in the worst wettest conditions whereas oils should be reserved for the dry dustless rides.
Perhaps that is the case if one only rides in good conditions and only does very infrequent wet rides. In those instances a very light oil that doesn't attract grime can work well and probably doesn't make much of a mess.
However if you live somewhere where for a few months of the year there isn't such a thing as a dry ride as the roads are constantly wet AND you ride every single day, light oil isn't going to cut it even if you apply it daily. I've tried.
Heavier oil works better but that then gunks up the chain and drive train and yet it doesn't prevent rusting in salty conditions. Also when it gets cold enough heavier oil becomes a literal drag as it stiffens into the consistency of grease.
Wax works best from the options I've tried so far. Stays clean no matter what time of the year it is and it lubricates longer than any oil I've tried. A few winters back the conditions got so dreary, that the wife's commuter's chain would start squeaking in two days after a full clean and relube, no matter what oil was used.
We would eat through drivetrains on a yearly basis, because I didn't have the time to spend every moment of my free time cleaning bikes that had gotten salt soaked by the days commute. The wife also didn't have the motivation to dry, clean and relube the bike at her workplace after every salt watery ride, ie. pretty much every day from november to march.
Wax doesn't prevent surface rust on the outside of the chain, but you get rid of that by boiling the chains in water before dunking them in wax (just learned that a few weeks ago).
On the topic of salt, it's apparently kinda important that one gets it out of the chain. If you just pour oil over it the chain keeps on rusting. So you either need to wash the chain (which I personally find to be a major hassle) or you can dunk it boiling water (which I find to be a lot easier). Don't know how boiling a chain would work with an oiled chain but it works really well with waxed ones.
So I would argue that wax does in fact work best in the worst wettest conditions whereas oils should be reserved for the dry dustless rides.
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#130
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#131
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I did. "Tests show blah, blah, blah". No, I have yet to hear from anybody here that they can get north of 10K miles using hot wax. I get anywhere between 8-10K miles out of my chains using oil based lubes. Furthermore, can you go 500 miles between hot waxings and get that kind of mileage?
#133
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pretty sure i get 400 due to the dry conditions i ride in. Reno. it does rain here but infrequently, except maybe this year.
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I find wax lasts a long time .... and for anyone who claims he can run an oil-lubed chain through his hand after 500 miles and it will not leave a mark ... yeah, I have been riding for like, 55 years (which isn't long for folks around here) and I can pretty much say that that is impossible. I have done every variation on lubrication, including tri-flo, various drip waxes (starting with White lightning, one of the fist I saw on the market, some 30 years ago) and a variety of other petroleum-based lubes, both general and specialized, including dripping a drop on each link, wiping the chain, letting it sit overnight, and wiping it (or running the chain through a rag) the next day. . I have never had a chain completely clean after a full cycle of use .... anyone who can must be riding indoors.
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I'm a bit puzzled why you're campaigning so hard against hot wax. Are you getting paid by Big Oil for this?

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#138
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It might be reasonable to cut elcruxio some slack, considering his location, and the possibility that English might not be his first language.

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the claim that wax as a lube in wet conditions is inferior to that of oil has been made by some. what gives? i ride in dry and don't plan to ride in rain but have been caught in it from time to time. what is it about water and wax that is a problem?
#141
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A real dunning kruger realization you might say.
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I find wax lasts a long time .... and for anyone who claims he can run an oil-lubed chain through his hand after 500 miles and it will not leave a mark ... yeah, I have been riding for like, 55 years (which isn't long for folks around here) and I can pretty much say that that is impossible. I have done every variation on lubrication, including tri-flo, various drip waxes (starting with White lightning, one of the fist I saw on the market, some 30 years ago) and a variety of other petroleum-based lubes, both general and specialized, including dripping a drop on each link, wiping the chain, letting it sit overnight, and wiping it (or running the chain through a rag) the next day. . I have never had a chain completely clean after a full cycle of use .... anyone who can must be riding indoors.
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I can only speak for drip wax (Silca SS and Squirt), but I find that it gets washed away pretty quickly in wet conditions. Same goes for most other dry lubes. I would imagine full hot immersion waxing is much more durable. But I wouldn't worry about it if you are only occasionally riding in the wet. It also depends just how clean your chain was before applying wax. It sticks much better to a totally clean chain, but I'm not that thorough!
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#146
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As much as I used to give myself credit for my language skills, not being a native is a real disadvantage when it comes to cultural references, idioms, turns of phrase, etc. Small but meaningful points get past me. Not really an issue when reading books, but in discussions it can cause issues.
A real dunning kruger realization you might say.
A real dunning kruger realization you might say.
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#147
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And yet that was sort of my whole point. Had you read my post beyond the first sentence you'd know that. For fair weather cyclists it doesn't matter all that much what you use. But if you limit yourself to sunny, you also can't look down on those who choose to ride in every weather.
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I just started waxing my rain bike so by spring I should have many more anecdotes.
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You may be in the habit of logging your chain mileage, but I'd bet a reasonable amount of money that most people do not keep track very closely at all. Also, the variations in riding conditions between one rider and the next make those kinds of comparisons fairly useless. You say you get more mileage out of an oil-based lube compared to the wax-based lube you used years ago. Polaris says he is getting more miles from his waxed chain. Both of these can be 100% accurate. IMO, the best way to make a true comparison between lube performance is in a controlled environment, such as what ZFC has done. ZFC's results are pretty clear. No relocation of goalposts required.
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There is a reason anecdotal data is only useful as coffee shop talk, and most of us give loose answers to how long a chain lasts. Even in my own n=1 study, my riding varies quite a bit from year to year. Some years, I ride a lot of CX and gravel, train outside all winter, and take some shortcuts on maintenance. Other years I spend a LOT of time on the trainer, remain focused on road, and rotate chains every 4-6 weeks. If I tell you a chain lasted 10,000 miles, what do you really know if you don't know what conditions I experienced in those 10,000 miles.
In this case, the most useful data comes from ZFC and others who produce well documented and replicable studies, who test chains and lubes under controlled conditions so it actually mans something when they say lube X lasts longer, or reduced friction by Y%.
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