For commuting and errands which require locking a bike outside I would get a cheaper beater bike. I would not risk a $ 3000 dollar bike. It only takes few seconds for an experienced bike thief to cut through a highest security lock. Sometimes they will cut a bike rack instead of a lock to take the bike.

I've had a NY Kryptonite for a long time. But I also realize that it's not immune from cutting, a battery operated angle grinder will cut through it in less than a minute. I would not use it for an expensive bike.

Junky crap that they want you to fund...no thanks not good security. A bike light should be a bike light and it should be solid white at the front with some different brightness settings and red at the rear and that rear light is fine to have flashing modes. It does not need to be an alarm and tracker and disco party light. Trackers are fine but they would need to be hidden in the frame and be good well supported GPS systems that are designed against theft not for misplaced items. However really in the end good locks and locking practices are going to be the best way to prevent theft and also keeping it in your sight. If you want an alarm it is best within a bike lock like these:
https://mobil.abus.com/usa/Products/...s/BORDO-6500KA
or if you are the smart phone type:
https://mobil.abus.com/usa/Products/...hts/770-SmartX
https://mobil.abus.com/usa/Products/...ORDO-One-6500A

Though me personally I would stick with their top end chain lock or folding lock sans alarm but I am just not a big alarm fan. When I hear a car alarm I wish the car would get smashed to bits and that alarm never goes off again. I guess a bike alarm would be different as those are less common and may actually prevent theft.

Same here. Plus I set my helmet on the ground next to my bike and buckle the strap around either front or rear rim.

+2. I have always wanted to see how well the helmet buckle would hold. The idiot in me tossed a broken helmet without trying that first.

My thinking is .... a single, very visible lock and chain deters the casual thieves, joyriders, and lazier crack/meth heads. A second very visible lock and chain----however tough the chain actually is (I mean, I cut the length I wanted off a roll at the hardware store .... using a big set of bolt cutters) even further discourages the slightly more enterprising thieves, because it will take twice as long.

Any of the Serious thieves can cut any lock or any chain ... but Most of them (I hope) are looking at Return on Investment----risk/reward balance. Why steal a bike they can only sell for a a hundred dollars when for the same effort hey can steal a better one? The guys in vans with multiple battery-powered cut-off wheels aren't looking to steal older mid-range models or new, big-box bikes .... They are looking for big-name, big-dollar bikes with all the modern components.

I look at bike security as a mental issue ... how big a lock do I need so I will feel secure? It is always a gamble---it is never guaranteed that when I leave the store my bike will be there waiting. How many locks do I need to use so that I can shop with peace of mind>

That is how much you need to spend ... whatever it takes to lock down the thoughts of being robbed.

PSA: if you have to bring it into the john with you, remember to turn your GoPro camera OFF. :innocent:

Yeah, my first thought when I read the original post, was that is was a post by someone trying to drive people to the Kickstarter page, but I've become jaded.

Angle grinder resistant locks: Hiplock D1000, Litelok X1, X3
Not all that hard to cut, but the prospective thief will wish they hadn't: Skunklock


If there's a situation in your cycling life where an alarm might help, you could try an alarmed motorcycle brake disk lock:

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...58b01904af.png

And as always, you can fold it up and take it with you:

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...84c8c97e75.png

I haven't found an iron-clad way to guard against theft.

Any of the GPS/satellite/cell type trackers can essentially be shielded if that bike is taken to a "dump" room that's reasonably shielded against such stuff (a place where cell phones and 2-way radios don't function). At least long enough that the thief can get to and disable/ditch the tracker.

Any lock can be broken or chain cut, if given enough time.

Myself, I'm of the view that procedures are just as important:
1. Don't leave a bike unattended.
2. If it must be unattended, heavily lock it and protect via surveillance video.
3. Toughest locks and chains possible.
4. Stored in a spot that's hard to get to, indoors if possible at all times (when stored), and well-anchored (locks + chains) to a solid structure.

And still a "good" bike can be gotten to, by a determined thief.

My own choices -- the ABUS line of security, which can come with coverage sufficient to repay theft of a lost bike that was locked up:
1. A couple of the toughest ABUS u-locks -- ie the Granit 770 or 640 line.
2. A tough commercial-grade ABUS padlock -- ie the 37RK line.
3. one of the tougher ABUS chains -- ie the 14KS line.

Heavy stuff, yes. But if you want to avoid theft, ...

Sometimes jaded is really a heightened state of awareness.

1. First time poster.

2. Kickstarter campaign of a British concern.

3. Alleged MBT price given in pounds.

4. Not even at 3% of goal, as converted from pounds to dollars.

5. Suggestion that the product is unique. (Why post if you are really going to search further? "I searched but could not find anything similar" would have been less suspicious.)

6, No subsequent posts by the OP.

:lol: Reminds me of the elected official who was on a Zoom-like meeting during the pandemic. He went to the bathroom and forgot to turn off his mic. He could be heard relieving himself and flushing the toilet.

Well, it has only been one day since the OP created the thread.

And the account.

As to the device itself, something that yells "Hey, your bike is being stolen!" is not the same thing as securing your bike. Maybe an added protection, if clumsy, but not protection in and of itself.

Our tweakers would have no qualms about riding away on a screaming, blinking bike. Nor will the cops investigate, even if you have its location.

Hopefully he washed his hands!

People have tracked their stolen bike or stolen photography gear with an airtag. The cops refused to enter the residence that appeared to be the current location of the tag.

Years ago, I did the "shift into the highest gear", or "cross shift while not turning the crank" so a thief can't ride away. Then most of the time, I forgot about it when I got on the bike. A "strap through the spokes" or something similar could be bad if I forget.

Cable locks
I use a cheap coil combination lock (around $8 at Target). It's simple to carry -- it hangs below the cinch strap of my saddle bag. It's strictly for quick store stops for snacks or restroom. I'm just avoiding a spur of the moment "grab and go" thief.

"Real" cable locks are pretty easy to cut open with good electrician diagonal cutters --- a "pro" bike thief, quietly snipping a few strands at a time. It doesn't take long.

Altor SAF lock!
This video from the entertaining "Lock Picking Lawyer" made me laugh: tiny hands!

N+1.

If I'm dropping $2.5k on a bike that sucker is for riding, not parking outside while I do the grocery shopping. Buy a second bike for 1/10th the price, use that for commuting and locking or whatever else might be on the menu. Use the high-dollar machine for dedicated rides with little to no downtime. (For the record, I'm not dropping $2.5k on a bike any time soon, so this is very much an opinion from the outside looking in.)

Yep, I'm just surprised no one else commented about it.