Is this acceptable?
 

-chromoly frameset with external cabling with full length cable housing, front and rear rack eyelets, comfort geometry, holes for KSA 40 kickstand
-40 degree sweepback bars
-plastic pedals with reflectors
-46/30 crankset with 11-34 cassette (9 speed hyperglide, not linkglide), replaceable chainrings, metal chainguard, Hollowtech II sealed bearings
-Sunrace friction shifters, front and rear
-36 spoke wheels with Joytech hubs (and using 9mmQR with 5mm Allen key skewers)
-158mm Selle Royale Freeway saddle
-Tektro mechanical disc brakes
-silver bars, seatpost, stem and headset spacers
-double bolt seatpost clamp

Nope, it will never work on a downhill course. Not really good for gravel either. I wouldn't want to use other for touring either, not with that gearing, or the suggested gearing. I doubt it would be good on a BMX course either.

acceptable for what? 🤔

Looks like OP is looking for approval and acceptance from random strangers on internet.

I give up. You tell us if it’s acceptable to you. :rolleyes::fred:

Have to admit it's a well-thought-out mix of old and new tech.

But if it's meant to be a proposal for a marginally affordable every-person's bike, to be sold at Canadian Tire, Walmart, etc.---you might have to rethink the friction shifting. Outside a tiny coterie of Bike Forums and Rivendell C&V adherents, the friction-shifting ship sailed long ago.

Ask AI.

Best answer.

.

Seems like a run of the mill hybrid with a shifter downgrade. I don’t see there being a mass market for it but there’s no reason not to build yourself one.

If you like it, you do you

details missing...full length brake hosing or both brake and shifter...... (full length shifter is not a good idea)

plastic pedals are generally junky...you can do better

what type of sunrace

Disc brakes are over kill and add wheel complications....... good brand double pivot with kool stop pads is way to go

You do you. Doesn't matter to me what you ride, just ride it!

If it works for you that is all that matters. Don't worry about the silly grin on my face or others as we pass you.

If you find that you don't seem to be able to do something as well as you think you should or are not even close to how others perform doing the same thing, then maybe there is something wrong with that bike. Give us the details of that issue the bike doesn't do well for and maybe you can get some thoughts about it.

Assuming this is a bike you might be thinking of purchasing, then maybe you need to ride your current bike a lot more so you get the experience to know what you need and won't have to seek general advice on what to get.

If you sent it to me, I would accept it.

If it works for you, then ride it. Personally, I don't like friction shifters because it seems like they will lose friction over time. Or at least a bike I owned years ago did, so you had to hold the shifter in place or else it'd change gear on its own. But it was a cheap department store bike.

This sounds to me like a bike the o.p. has, not one they are planning to build (or retail). Seems like they find it is overgeared and I would too. Oddly, none of their proposed drivetrain considerations really addresses the fact.

OP likes to think up bikes that might sell to big box store shoppers. Note the lack of participation after the initial post, probably thanks to teasing in past threads. Might show up in another two weeks or so with another "What if?" thread.

Well, maybe you'll be happy to hear that I think I've run out of questions. I mean I covered the basics like gearing etc. The reason for the steel frame is some comments from a cyclist on Youtube. Mechanical disc instead of hydraulic, well I'd rather go with something I can adjust on the side of the road. Anyway, there's a reason for the various parameters.
(I'm not against an aluminum frameset though due to the lack of rust and light weight.)

If you have to ask you already know the answer.

.

Acceptable is in the eye of the beholder. If it works for you, you’re good.

Maybe YES or Maybe NO
All depends on which way you GO

Full length cable housings = bad idea. Too much housing compression.
Friction shifting is cute for a tiny number of people and very much not cute for the vast majority of people. There is a reason why it died out within 2 years after Shimano introduced SIS index shifting.
Mechanical disc brakes are no better than V brakes and prone to endemic squealing.

The bike market is in horrible shape at the moment. This is a very bad time for you to be selling your own line of bikes.

Designing a 1990 bike in 2025. LOL

If everyone agrees to change their responses to just 'YES', will you finally be content?
Just tell us what we need to say to get you to wherever it is you are trying to go.


Oh please please please tell us what the reason for the parameters is. Please!

I don't know if you're being sarcastic but here you go...
-40 degree sweepback bars
because I found out when carrying groceries in both the front and rear rack bags I had more control going around potholes etc.
-plastic pedals with reflectors
plastic because even if it's rare to hit your shins, the marks from metal pedals can last for years. Also reflectors because once I was in a bus at night and the only thing you saw from a cyclist at night once was the pedal reflectors.
-9 speed hyperglide, not linkglide
because 9 speeds is the most you'd want with friction shifting, Hyperglide because it's faster than Linkglide and also because one poster said mechanics can't stand to adjust CUES
-Hollowtech II sealed bearings
easier to work with than square taper, sealed because the first ones came out with unsealed which got dirty
-Sunrace friction shifters, front and rear
never have to adjust derailleurs, better durability
-36 spoke wheels with Joytech hubs (and using 9mmQR with 5mm Allen key skewers)
36 spoke because it's more realistic for grocery shopping with two racks and two double bags. Joytech because I found fewer complaints online than Formula. Also for Shimano anything under Deore apparently is not worth it, 9mmQR because I had the most insane time doing research on 36 spoke rear hubs that were thru-axle but also compatible with Hyperglide. Trying to find the combinations I wanted was a freaking mystery. Allen key skewers because the wheels won't get stolen as fast.
-158mm Selle Royale Freeway saddle
because 130m and 142mm might be too narrow for an upright seating position
-silver bars, seatpost, stem and headset spacers
black painted parts can eventually rub off and make the bike look old, cheap
-double bolt seatpost clamp
easier to work with than single bolt
KSA kickstand on frame
won't hit your foot when you're pedaling
The rest like metal chainguard and replaceable chainrings are self-explanatory.

If you have found that all these ^^^ things suit you then why are you asking us if they are acceptable? :foo: