How do you mount your bike?
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How do you mount your bike?
I'm reading a old bicycling book from the '90s and it says the way I always mounted my bike can "wrench" the frame.
The way I've always done it is: hands on bar, left foot on left pedal, stand on pedal and as bike begins to roll swing right leg over rear tire and place right foot on right pedal and start riding.
But the book says stand astride the bike first. Place foot in pedal and then start pedaling.
And can somebody describe a "wrenched" frame for me so I know what to look for when shopping for a used bike?
Thanks.
Dang
The way I've always done it is: hands on bar, left foot on left pedal, stand on pedal and as bike begins to roll swing right leg over rear tire and place right foot on right pedal and start riding.
But the book says stand astride the bike first. Place foot in pedal and then start pedaling.
And can somebody describe a "wrenched" frame for me so I know what to look for when shopping for a used bike?
Thanks.
Dang
#2
hello
The old school method is fine unless you're in a group ride......you'll be smacking someone behind you with your right foot.
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Yah, like you, I've been doing it the "wrong way" too for the past four decades. I'll let you know when I wrench a frame.
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What were falling from the writer's lips may have been small and roughly spherical, but pearls of wisdom they weren't - I leave it up to you to work out what I think he was talking.
If doing that "wrenched" the frame, what do they think that mountain biking or sprinting eyeballs out at the end of a race would do to it.
If doing that "wrenched" the frame, what do they think that mountain biking or sprinting eyeballs out at the end of a race would do to it.
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Originally Posted by atbman
What were falling from the writer's lips may have been small and roughly spherical, but pearls of wisdom they weren't - I leave it up to you to work out what I think he was talking.
If doing that "wrenched" the frame, what do they think that mountain biking or sprinting eyeballs out at the end of a race would do to it.
If doing that "wrenched" the frame, what do they think that mountain biking or sprinting eyeballs out at the end of a race would do to it.
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Interesting, as the Fount-of-Internet-Bicycle-Wisdom Sheldon Brown has much the same to say about this, except that it is bad for the wheels, not the frame.
https://sheldonbrown.com/starting.html
https://sheldonbrown.com/starting.html
# The Cowboy Mount
is popular among cyclists who learned to ride on a bicycle that was too large for them. Indeed, this is the only way to get started on a bike that is seriously too tall for the rider. This dubious technique involves standing next to the bike, putting one foot on a pedal, then swinging the other leg over the saddle while the bicycle is in motion.
The cowboy mount places the rider's weight on the bicycle while it is leaning over at a sharp angle. This puts considerable lateral stress on the frame and the wheels. Bicycle wheels, in particular, are not designed to withstand serious sideways stresses, and this poor mounting technique is very hard on your wheels.
is popular among cyclists who learned to ride on a bicycle that was too large for them. Indeed, this is the only way to get started on a bike that is seriously too tall for the rider. This dubious technique involves standing next to the bike, putting one foot on a pedal, then swinging the other leg over the saddle while the bicycle is in motion.
The cowboy mount places the rider's weight on the bicycle while it is leaning over at a sharp angle. This puts considerable lateral stress on the frame and the wheels. Bicycle wheels, in particular, are not designed to withstand serious sideways stresses, and this poor mounting technique is very hard on your wheels.
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If my bike frame was so flimsy that it couldn't handle the stress of me getting on it, I'd be lookin' to trade it in quick.
And although I wouldn't want to dispute the Fount-of-Internet-Bicycle-Wisdom, I don't think the sideways forces that SB is concerned about are significant. At least not with my hybrid wheels.
I'll continue to be a "cowboy" except maybe in a tight-packed group start.
But I am working on my right-side "cowboy" mount. That should even things out.
added - The fact that I use toe clips instead of clipless probably makes a difference.
And although I wouldn't want to dispute the Fount-of-Internet-Bicycle-Wisdom, I don't think the sideways forces that SB is concerned about are significant. At least not with my hybrid wheels.
I'll continue to be a "cowboy" except maybe in a tight-packed group start.
But I am working on my right-side "cowboy" mount. That should even things out.
added - The fact that I use toe clips instead of clipless probably makes a difference.
Last edited by cc_rider; 09-27-05 at 09:09 AM.
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Mounting a bike sounds so kinky. I get on my bike and ride
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Originally Posted by Seanholio
Interesting, as the Fount-of-Internet-Bicycle-Wisdom Sheldon Brown has much the same to say about this, except that it is bad for the wheels, not the frame.
https://sheldonbrown.com/starting.html
https://sheldonbrown.com/starting.html
Personally, I stand beside the bicycle with one hand on the handlebar and one hand on the saddle. I tip the bicycle away from me. Then I lift my right leg over the top tube, bringing the bicycle back to a vertical position as soon as my heel has cleared the top tube. Then I clip in my left pedal, bring my left foot to a 1:00 position, push down to set the bicycle in motion, lift myself into the saddle, and then clip into my right pedal.
It just seems so much safer.
That said ... I think I might have cracked my tailbone catching my heel on the dismount.
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Since I raised my seat to be the proper height, the only way I can mount my bike is to:
- Stand over frame with both feet on ground
- Clip in left foot and bring it to 11 o'clock position
- Push down & stand on left foot which lifts me into the air and propels the bike forward allowing me to balance
- Sit down in saddle and clip in right foot
Or if I'm lazy and don't want to get in and out of the saddle:
- Position bike parallel to right curb that is around 6" off the ground
- From curb, sit down in saddle and clip in left foot
- Bring left foot to 11 o'clock posiiton and push off
- Clip in right foot
- Stand over frame with both feet on ground
- Clip in left foot and bring it to 11 o'clock position
- Push down & stand on left foot which lifts me into the air and propels the bike forward allowing me to balance
- Sit down in saddle and clip in right foot
Or if I'm lazy and don't want to get in and out of the saddle:
- Position bike parallel to right curb that is around 6" off the ground
- From curb, sit down in saddle and clip in left foot
- Bring left foot to 11 o'clock posiiton and push off
- Clip in right foot
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You know, I've never thought about this one way or the other. Ever. Sitting here now, I still haven't got the faintest idea how I get on or off my ride. I'm pretty certain though that I won't be able to go for a ride without thinking about it from this point forward.. Thank you for that.
-Bob
-Bob
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Originally Posted by cc_rider
But I am working on my right-side "cowboy" mount. That should even things out.
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I always start by dimming the lights and lighting a few candles. Then I softly mummer sweat nothings before I try to mount my bike.
BR
BR
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Originally Posted by Billy Ray
I always start by dimming the lights and lighting a few candles. Then I softly mummer sweat nothings before I try to mount my bike.
BR
BR
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This alternative view to Sheldon's is from Jobst Brandt, who wrote the definitive book on the bicycle wheel:
https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...28601?v=glance
"If our clunkers that we rode to
school could take the stress, why shouldn't the wheels of a high
priced bicycle be any less able to take the load of a rider on one
pedal? A good test of wheels, after building them, is to stand on one
pedal leaning as far out as possible while rolling along to see if any
spokes untwist. Of course no such sound should be audible but this
does the wheels no harm. In fact if they don't survive this test they
are probably not safe to be ridden.
I think your (Sheldon's) section on "the right way and the wrong way is unduly
restrictive and conjures an image of a frail bicycle that cannot take
even light side loads. I think typical rough road riding puts more
load on the bicycle than any of these mounting styles."
I'm with Jobst and with school kids everywhere.
https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...28601?v=glance
"If our clunkers that we rode to
school could take the stress, why shouldn't the wheels of a high
priced bicycle be any less able to take the load of a rider on one
pedal? A good test of wheels, after building them, is to stand on one
pedal leaning as far out as possible while rolling along to see if any
spokes untwist. Of course no such sound should be audible but this
does the wheels no harm. In fact if they don't survive this test they
are probably not safe to be ridden.
I think your (Sheldon's) section on "the right way and the wrong way is unduly
restrictive and conjures an image of a frail bicycle that cannot take
even light side loads. I think typical rough road riding puts more
load on the bicycle than any of these mounting styles."
I'm with Jobst and with school kids everywhere.
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#16
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Originally Posted by Billy Ray
I always start by dimming the lights and lighting a few candles. Then I softly mummer sweat nothings before I try to mount my bike.
BR
BR
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Originally Posted by Dang
I'm reading a old bicycling book from the '90s and it says the way I always mounted my bike can "wrench" the frame.
The way I've always done it is: hands on bar, left foot on left pedal, stand on pedal and as bike begins to roll swing right leg over rear tire and place right foot on right pedal and start riding.
But the book says stand astride the bike first. Place foot in pedal and then start pedaling.
And can somebody describe a "wrenched" frame for me so I know what to look for when shopping for a used bike?
Thanks.
Dang
The way I've always done it is: hands on bar, left foot on left pedal, stand on pedal and as bike begins to roll swing right leg over rear tire and place right foot on right pedal and start riding.
But the book says stand astride the bike first. Place foot in pedal and then start pedaling.
And can somebody describe a "wrenched" frame for me so I know what to look for when shopping for a used bike?
Thanks.
Dang
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I think it depends on how big the rider is. If you are thin enough you could probably jump off the roof on to the saddle and ride off. If you big like me I think the a stride method makes more since.
We used to get a running start and jump on in the good old days of the 60's. Most of the time we would put the left foot on the peddle and start pushing with the right foot until we got up some speed and then swing our right leg across the frame. Hi Ho Silver!!
They were good old days.
Joe
We used to get a running start and jump on in the good old days of the 60's. Most of the time we would put the left foot on the peddle and start pushing with the right foot until we got up some speed and then swing our right leg across the frame. Hi Ho Silver!!
They were good old days.
Joe
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Hogwash.
No one is going to tell me that my bike smiles as I do 4 foot drops, careen through rock gardens, and climb using freewheel-breaking sprints, but it grimaces because I mount it funny. Pfffffff.
No one is going to tell me that my bike smiles as I do 4 foot drops, careen through rock gardens, and climb using freewheel-breaking sprints, but it grimaces because I mount it funny. Pfffffff.
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Originally Posted by Billy Ray
I always start by dimming the lights and lighting a few candles. Then I softly mummer sweat nothings before I try to mount my bike.
BR
BR
Last edited by Dang; 09-27-05 at 04:56 PM.
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OK, now I've got to know. Do you suppose there might be a relationship between how a person mounts his bike and the sexual disfunctions that have been attributed to bicycle saddles? How does Sheldon mount his bike and does he have any kids?
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I naturally gravitate toward slow technical stuff, but for curiosity's sake:
- I stand over the frame, and move the bottom pedal slightly forward
- Apply front+back brakes
- Step on bottom pedal, then lift my other foot to the upper one, still standing
- Release brakes and start rolling
- Sit down
Dismounting is identical, but reverse order. I've only started using this tech. because my seat used to be too low. Now when I stand over the frame, the tip of the seat is at/above my tailbone, so I had to find a way to start and stop off the seat.
I can see logically how the "cowboy" method could hurt your rims on a race bike or something, and probably isn't good for road bikes with aluminum rims, but unless you're at an extreme angle trying BMX flatland stuff (look at THOSE tires!) it's probably no big thing...
- I stand over the frame, and move the bottom pedal slightly forward
- Apply front+back brakes
- Step on bottom pedal, then lift my other foot to the upper one, still standing
- Release brakes and start rolling
- Sit down
Dismounting is identical, but reverse order. I've only started using this tech. because my seat used to be too low. Now when I stand over the frame, the tip of the seat is at/above my tailbone, so I had to find a way to start and stop off the seat.
I can see logically how the "cowboy" method could hurt your rims on a race bike or something, and probably isn't good for road bikes with aluminum rims, but unless you're at an extreme angle trying BMX flatland stuff (look at THOSE tires!) it's probably no big thing...
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Here's a better question:
How do you mount your bike when you're on a steep grade and want to ascend?
I doubt the Cowboy Method would work.
How do you mount your bike when you're on a steep grade and want to ascend?
I doubt the Cowboy Method would work.
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Originally Posted by CrimsonEclipse
From behind...